How Many El Cap Routes have You Done?

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WBraun

climber
Feb 7, 2008 - 11:29pm PT
Ammon -- Mescalito – w/Captain Kirk

Was that after that big whipper he took and got scalped?
Ammon

Big Wall climber
El Cap
Feb 7, 2008 - 11:59pm PT

Yeah, we did it a year later after his scalping, haa haa. His eyes got super huge when he talked about it.
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Feb 8, 2008 - 12:42am PT
- feeling impotent lmao

if Moratorium/East Butt don't count then simply:
(first of a few times, with Paul Boissenault 78)

#######

-Nose 83' with Mark Grant
we did it in two bivy's,
almost one but we lost a headlamp at first bivy and it was inevetiable we would top out in the dark, so we opted for a second biv on C-6. No hauling, second jugged with a pack, we used a 100 meter peice of 9mm Edleweiss Xtreme and did it in about 17 pitches.

I stopped climbing when I moved to Hawai'i in the early 80's.
Just started again last spring.
I look forward to those 'butterflies' again some day :)

#######

Mark Hudon...
When you were climbing with Peter Cole back then,
did he have his buddy 'Ace' the 4-paw-drive, wonder dog?

I remember running into Peter coming down the trail from the Cirque of the Towers in the winds. His dog was about 300 yrds ahead of him. The dog looked at and sniffed me. I looked him over (and 'ad a sniff or two) we were trying to figure out how we knew each other, when Peter came into sight and it was apparent.
The previous time I saw Peter and his dog they (yeah the two of them) were soloing up in Huntington's a couple seasons before. That was one seasoned canine.
(that should be a thread... canine soloists)
E

Social climber
Tujunga CA.
Feb 8, 2008 - 04:11pm PT
Ok guys, here's what I have so far.

1. West Face Mike Paul, 82
2. Lurking Fear Mike Lechlinski 85
3. Lurking Fear Kevin Thaw 96
4. West Butresss Ken Klis 97
5. Diehedral Wall, Ken Klis, 97
6. *Octopussy Tommy Thompson 04 Storm and pluckage 1 pitch from Thanksgiving
7. Never, Neverland Greg Byrne 84
8. Aquarian Wall Russ Walling 81
9. Horsechute Driver, Mike Lechlinski 85
10. Cosmos Bill Leventhal 97
11. Pacemaker Kevin Daniels, Brian Jonas 98
12. Flight of the Albatross Bill Leventhal 00
13. Sunkist Bill Leventhal 93
14. Jolly Roger Bill Leventhal 07
15. Magic Mushroom Greg Byrne 84
16. Shield John Sherman 83
17. Muir Wall Bill Leventhal 92
18. Salathe Tim Sorenson 80
19. Triple Direct Bill Leventhal/Will Oxx 99
20. Grape Race Bill Leventhal 03
21. The Nose Bill Leventhal 98
22. Tribal Rite Mike Lechlinski 06
23. WOTEML Bill Leventhal 93
24. New Dawn Mike Lechlinski 06
25. Mescalito Mike Lechlinski 83
26 Spacealito Mike Lechlinski 07
27. South Seas/Space Bill Leventhal 96
28. Pacific Ocean Wall Dave Evans 87
29. Sea of Dreams Bill Leventhal 06
30. North American Wall Robert Brown 95
31. Wyoming Sheep Ranch Bill Leventhal 03
32. New Jersey Turnpike Bill Leventhal 98
33. Alantic Ocean Bill Leventhal 05
34. Iron Hawk Robert Brown 96
35. *Native Son Russ Walling 91 Finished with Bill Leventhal 04
36. Aurora Brian Jonas 02
37. Tangerine Trip Greg Byrnes 86
38. Virginia Bill Leventhal 02
39. Lost in America Walt Shipley 96
40. Zenyatta Mondatta Greg Byrnes 86
41. Zodiac Dag Kolstrud/Mike Lechinski/Alan Nelson 1980
42. Zodiac Bill Leventhal/Will Oxx 99 25 hour push
43. Shortest Straw Tommy Thompson 01
44. Kaos Kevin Thaw/Bill Leventhal 97
45. Lunar Eclipse Bill Leventhal 91
46. Born Under A Bad SignBill Leventhal 02
47. Bad Seed Jean Delatiade 01
48. Eagles Way Greg Byrnes 83
49. Waterfall Route Bill Leventhal 02
42 hrs
that's I have......for now

xoxo
Erik
mikeyschaefer

climber
Yosemite
Feb 8, 2008 - 04:18pm PT
28 trips up the Big stone. many repeats, many failed attempts, a free ascent, and few guided ascents.

Hey Ammon! How bout the salathe? i bet we could get up that one together.
Ammon

Big Wall climber
El Cap
Feb 8, 2008 - 04:21pm PT

That's one 'ell of a list Erik, thanks for posting. It's cool to see the dates you climbed all the routes in, I guess I should add mine. It's interesting to read everyone's El Cap history. Cheers!

Edit- Yeah, Mikey I'm game on the Salathe... I was kinda saving it for D. Yerrian but I could always do it again. Hey, I tried to call you a few days ago... I'll try again.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Feb 8, 2008 - 05:23pm PT
Another interesting list might be who has climbed all the main (big) formations: Rostrum, Ribbon Falls, Leaning Tower, Middle Cathedral (to the top), El Cap, Sentinel, Was. Col., Half Dome, Quarter Dome, Watkins, Yos. Falls Wall, (plus a few others).

JL
James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Feb 8, 2008 - 05:45pm PT
A very small 3.
Zodiac in a day with Jamie Mundo
Lurking Fear in 12 hrs with Jens Holsten
Nose in 3.5 days with Max Hasson
Next time I summit El Cap, it'll be because I freed it.
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Feb 8, 2008 - 06:01pm PT
I've been up it a couple dozen or so times:

West Face (5 hours with Dave Schultz 6/84)
West Face (8 hours valley to valley with Steve Bryne, 10/85)
Never Never Land (first solo ascent, 5 days, 5/85)
Cosmos (1990 or so with Jimmy Dunn, new direct finish)
Shield (Solo, 4 bivies total--2 of which were on Chickenhead Ledge: had a bunch of food and water, so I spent a whole day hanging out reading books on Chickenhead, 6/84)
Shield (One day attempt with Mike Corbett, made it to Chickenhead in 18.5 hours, next day off in a big storm, 1985).
Shield (movie rigging for "Rock and Road", Sutton set ropes for us from the top to Chickenhead, so it doesn't really count).
Flight of the Albatross (FA with Will Oxx, 1990's)
Magic Mushroom(4 bivies, Corbett, 4/85)
Salathe (1983 with Swiss partner)
Salathe (1990's with Walt and friend)
Nose (1980, Steve Chardon)
Nose (Derik Hersey, 10/84)
Nose (Dave Schultz, 10.5 hours, 12/21/85, shortest day of the year)
Nose (Jeff Hollenbaugh, around 12 hours valley to valley, late 80s)
Nose (with "friend", 1990's)
Nose (with "friend", 1990's) *covert guiding missions, more than 7 years ago*
Nose (?, forget right now, I just remember that I've climbed the Nose 7 times)
Tribal Rite (Steve Quinlan, with right side of El Cap Tower start, 1991, stormed every day)
Mescalito (Alex Lowe, 2 bivies no pitches fixed, Hockey Night start, 1984)
Pacific Ocean Wall (Werner Braun, 3 bivies with three pitches fixed, 8/85)
North American Wall (2000 or so, for film shoot)
Wyoming Sheep Ranch (Xaver Bongard, 1990 or so, with new direct finish out the Cyclops)
Atlantic Ocean Wall (FA with John Barbella, 1985)
Iron Hawk (Russ Walling, 5th ascent, summer 84)
Zenyatta Mendatta (Walt Shipley, 2/85, first winter ascent)
Zodiac (Lydia Bradey, 1981)
East Buttress (a bunch of times)

For Largo's list, all the formations he mentioned, except for Quarter Dome (which I have been up a few pitches only--what a horrendous approach from Valley floor--never went back, the way to approach this one is from the top, apparently...)
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Feb 8, 2008 - 07:58pm PT
That's all, E?
-Moma Mia!
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Feb 8, 2008 - 08:13pm PT
5
All with BigWallPaul. I think he's been up the Cap'n a dozen and a half times.....

Haven't been up since I got a real job several years ago. Wanted to go last year but was held back by psoriatic arthritis in my achilles, toes, and fingers. Thanx to a drug called Remicade I can actually walk straight and climb again! I'll be back up there this season- maybe with BWP if he can find a babysitter!

Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Feb 8, 2008 - 08:23pm PT
interesting Largo list. Never been on 1/4 dome, or to the top of watkins, do Arrow direct and chimbly (no tip either time)plus Freestone,count as Falls wall? Only been to the catwalk on middle, 3times each up sentinel and 4,WC, though, okay, I give.

Farther afield? How many up texas Tower? Or tha tiny crag by Bluff (blanding?) before Jello broke it?
goatboy smellz

climber
colorado
Feb 8, 2008 - 08:30pm PT
Gee if the west butt doesn't count then I've only done three.

Dihedral Wall - Mark Kelly '95
Zodiac - Alex Paxton '96
Tangerine Trip - Mary Summners '97

I gotta get back to cali...it's been too long.
Jonny D

Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
Feb 8, 2008 - 08:57pm PT
dihedral 79 - philippe grenier
triple direct - philippe grenier
zodiac 82 - thierry renault
salathe 82 - antoine savelli
aquarian 82 - pascal etienne
nose 85 - jean noel, bertrand roche (10 year old!)
west face 00 - john ryer
bad seed 01 - E
zenyatta 03 - mark davis
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Feb 8, 2008 - 09:33pm PT
Wow E and Ammon those are some pretty impessive list's. Thought I would lay may humble list out there.

Lurking Fear w/Stu Richie 85'
Octopussy w/Erik Eriksson (plucked 1 pitch from Thanksgiving 04')
Salathe w/Jim Erdman & John Wrap 85'
Shield w/Karen Roseme
Muir w/Rick Lovelace 89'
WOEML w/Rick Lovelace 91'
Mescalito (Solo to the Molar then joined Paul and Bill)
Pacfic Ocean Solo 97'
Atlantic Ocean w/Rick Lovelace 94' (4th ascent)
Iron son w/ Steve Muse 03'
Lost in America w/Dave Bengston 96'?
Tangarine Trip w/Lynn Ramono 95'?
Kaos w/Rick Lovelace (2nd ascent)?
ZM w/Rick Lovelace Ed Collins Dec 90'
Shortest Straw w/Erik Eriksson 02'
Zodiac w/John Collins 89'
Zodiac w/Mike Hatchett and Rick Lovelace (filmed for Masters of stone)
Zodiac w/Forrest Dobson
Zodiac w/George Hoover
Lurking Fear w Jim Erdman 89'


Hey Aldude or anyone out there by Gerby, see if you can't get him to make a cameo hear on this thread that is basically in his honor. I am sure I am not the only one that would love to hear from the Master.


YEEEHA
Dave Tapes

Trad climber
Silverado CA
Feb 8, 2008 - 10:37pm PT
Wow there are thousands of ascents all together from this group.

Just 10 for me not counting the West Face and the East Buttress.

DW
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Feb 8, 2008 - 11:34pm PT
G_Gnome you "sona of itch". You said that the triple cracks is your pitch!

i've climbed el cap more than six times but less than ten!

I'd rather climb 1/2dome!
Ammon

Big Wall climber
El Cap
Feb 9, 2008 - 12:40am PT

I would love to see Gerby’s El Cap list, I especially like the dates and partners and it would really be interesting to see his detailed list.

Oh, T2… bro, don’t sell your self short. You have inspired MANY, myself included. See you Sunday and will call you tomorrow.

Oh, funny how we both described Steve as a class act, just noticed it after going back and reading it again… maybe it stuck with me subliminally, not sure.

class act: an example of outstanding quality or prestige
lucho

Gym climber
San Franpsycho
Feb 9, 2008 - 03:10am PT
And my dick is four inches...when I fold it in half.
Maysho

climber
Truckee, CA
Feb 9, 2008 - 07:45am PT
Well Lucho,

Don't worry, if you are careful with the position of your leg loops, even you could probably get yourself up El Cap someday.

Peter
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