How Many El Cap Routes have You Done?


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G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
Jul 9, 2007 - 07:28pm PT
43 and counting.
seamus mcshane

Jul 9, 2007 - 07:49pm PT
As far as I know Brad is alive and still wearing long pants in 110 degree weather while climbing. Lives in Portland, Ore with Heather,Caleb and ???kin.

Crestline CA
Jul 9, 2007 - 07:59pm PT
Yo... I climbed the Dihedral wall with Brad in 92. A better climber and man I have not met. Also did the Muir Blast in 89 with Tucker... it was interesting and a learning experience for me ... he was and still is I'm sure, a real stoic and a rock solid partner. My first climb on the big stone was the nose in 71 with the great Paul Sibley, always compitent and fun. Did 3D with grahm sanders from australia in 83 ... he was a good partner and much more proficient than I. The last success was in 95 with Dave Mcknight (?) maybe the wrong last name... he was a newbie and I was an oldie on my way out at 51.... we almost died of thirst.. I have bailed one more time than I have succeeded, even though the odds were heavily stacked on my side... just got scared!!

Social climber
No Ut
Jul 9, 2007 - 08:27pm PT
Salathe in '69, NA in '70 and TD in 71. Taught me the secrets to being at home in steep high places.
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Jul 9, 2007 - 08:52pm PT
So far, 14 ascents, 12 routes. Each was one was such a powerful and memorable experience.
Handjam Belay

Gym climber
expat from the truth
Jul 9, 2007 - 09:03pm PT
14 topouts, 1 solo, 2 single pushes...countless moments of growth

There is only one El Cap

Trad climber
Jul 9, 2007 - 09:12pm PT
Hello Todd. It's Armando. Hot in Josh? Anyway. Has anybody heard anything about climbing restrictions and or banning climbing on El Cap. A co-worker of mine saw something on the news on Sunday about, how tourist are making it unsafe for the climbers on El Cap and next year 2008. Yosemite is doing something about it. Is it true? Any info? I hope not.
One of my main goals in life as a climber is to climb El Cap! (The Nose). I have only climbed some base routes. But dream to climb up that beautiful stone. Just need some aid practice and a passionate partner that shares the same dream.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 9, 2007 - 09:21pm PT
El Cap is still the standard against which all others are compared. Open any climbing magazine, and you'll always find at least one photo of the thing somewhere. It should be every free climber's goal to one day climb The Nose, and every aid climber's goal to one day solo El Cap.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 9, 2007 - 09:32pm PT
9 routes, 12 ascents, plus 2 times up the West Face (with bivy) and one time from Heart to the top of the Muir (my partner had done the lower Muir 6 months prior, but his partner finished it with someone else, so I got the partial ascent; still good fun).

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Jul 9, 2007 - 10:08pm PT
Nine El Cap Grade VI aid walls, bottom to top. More than nine starts which ended in failure.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 9, 2007 - 10:16pm PT
"Shoulda heard Chappy up there on Excaliber tryin to stack 2x8 doug fir cutoffs with bongs. He cut em the wrong way and they were splitting on him every time. Man was he pissed. We had a feast of food and water after we decided to bail, and then we dropped a haul bag with a down jacket zipped around it, and screamed as it fell with the arms flapping wildly. Alan Bard was at the base and was sure one of us had cratered. He didn't think it was funny."

LOL!!! That made my day. Climber humour at its best. (Worst.)Though I guess the down jacket didn't survive the ride.
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Jul 9, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
Nose in '83
Shield in '93

failed on everything in 2005

spring '06 Lurking Fear
Fall '06 Zodiac
spring '07 soloed Mescalito

The best part is that I'm 47 and don't think that I'm even half done yet.

Cardiff by the sea
Jul 9, 2007 - 10:22pm PT
18 ascents 15 different routes, 1 solo and 1 winter ascent(in true winter conditions) First one was in 85' as long as I've been at it seems like I should have more.

Gerby is truly a class act! You could not have picked a finer example to lead off for a thread with this title.

Hey Levy, I agree that more respect goes out to the one with more routes than with multiple ascents via the same route. Stevie and E probably set those standards. If Hans has been up the Nose that many times out of a hundred, how many times do you think he's been up the Salathe'?

right here, right now
Jul 9, 2007 - 10:49pm PT
Nose in '79 & Salathe in '81.
I then Guided the Nose in '87 & Salathe in '88.
The guided ascents were superb experiences as I had fit, well prepared clients.

Truckee, CA
Jul 9, 2007 - 11:01pm PT
Old days list
West Face 3rd free ascent (3 days after the FFA) '79
Zodiac '80
Horse Chute '81
ZM FA '81
Aurora FA '81
NJ Turnpike '83?
attempt on FA "heart of darkness" renamed Wyoming Sheep Ranch '83
Nose guided 3 times '84-89

Modern list
NIAD "least amount of gear" no jumars no aiders '93
Three routes with my son Braden
Zodiac (clean+fixed), ZM 20 years later(99.9%clean+fixed), NIAD

still many I hope to do!

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Jul 9, 2007 - 11:12pm PT
One attempt, one ascent. I did Mescalito with Rob. It was great. Smooth sailing on an easy route.

Of course it is very impressive, what people do climbing the Captain over and over again. But it is after all a roadside crag. If that sucker was 15 miles into the mountains over a high pass… well you see my point?

Such crags exist, btw.

Jul 10, 2007 - 12:33am PT
I'm 1 for 2 = 50%. 1st time I broke my foot in a fall above grey ledges, rapped down, crawled/limped back to my car, drove to the hospital, and was in a cast for 6 weeks. Next time, I made it to the top at the ripe young age of 49. Leading the Great Roof was the highlight of my big wall experience. I'm light.

good to see you here Bob.
remember me, Rockreation in CM, 1995.
climbd with you in Josh too.

Big Wall climber
Chicago, Illinois
Jul 10, 2007 - 01:17am PT

Northwest Montana
Jul 10, 2007 - 12:42pm PT
16+ routes (I know I'm forgetting a couple...)including a solo of The Shortest Straw.

Wall climbing became to routine so I switched my focus to another form of self inflicted torture... the Marathon. It's definatly more brutal (for me anyhow). My Mantra: "3.5 hours of running is surely more pleasant than 3.5 days on El Cap" but somehow I don't find it convincing.

Incidentally, I'm 7 months pregnant and anticipate this journey as a test of strength and wits equal to all those athletic pursuits!

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Jul 10, 2007 - 12:53pm PT
Let' see... in order; Salathe, Dawn Wall, Mescalito, Zodiac, Tangerine Trip. Bailed off of Horse Chute from way up. No attempts since about 1979.
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