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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 13, 2008 - 11:37pm PT
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Hmm, those Gallegos fellers seem to like being up there.
I wonder which climber has bivouaced the most times, total, on El Capitan? That is, adding every night on the wall (not the base or top) together?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jun 13, 2008 - 11:56pm PT
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Pete (PTPP) was telling me the other day in email that his FISH Ledge just went over the 365 nights mark..... that would be a year for you guys in Berkley....
Pretty impressive on a few fronts..... even if a guy does some standard times, that is like 80 El Cap routes.
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hollyclimber
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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CHICKS ON THE BIG STONE
I have 20 routes and 24 ascents. My neighbor Sue McDevitt has 26 ascents and we have to recount her routes but its around 12 or so. Beth has the most ascents for a woman, with 34 ascents on Hans' site right now (12 routes).
Aimee Aucoin has reported around 17 ascents on this topic and I would guess that after me she has the most number of routes ascended on El Cap by a woman.
Steve Schneider reports 18 ascents for Heather, but I am sure that includes repeats. I used to know how many El Cap routes Kate had - I think its around 9 or so with a lot of hard ones: Virginia, Mescalito (solo), ZM, Lost in America, The Straw?, Wyoming Sheep Ranch, Reticent, Tangerine Trip, Born Under a Bad sign (in progress? assume success is eminent). Kate's into quality, not quantity I would say.
Other notables: Amanda Tarr and Kathy Dicker have quite a few routes and Lorna Illingworth, Erika Kutcher (RIP) and Jean Redle have a fair number as well.
At any rate, chicks are tearing up the Captain pretty good I would say!
I was most inspired by Amanda Tarr and Sue McDevitt as I started my wall climbing adventure. Amanda for her amazing trip reports on RC.com and Sue for her first ascent, huge number of ascents, first one day of the Nose with Nancy Feagin and her appearance in the Green Gear Video Guide to Aid Climbing, which I must have watched 20 times while learning to aid climb. Also of course hugely inspired by Bev Johnson, after whom I pushed myself to solo the Dihedral Wall as my hardest adventure on El Cap personally, irrespective of the grade of the climbing.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 27, 2008 - 10:46pm PT
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I gotta do the arithmetic, Russ, but I think I'm sitting around 360 nites of big wall camping on the side of El Cap [not counting summit and base bivis] - almost every dang one in my Fish double Crab-O-Ledge.
35 routes and 36 ascents of El Cap, what with my recent climb of Born Under A Bad Sign with Kate.
Will try to get a trip report written and some photos uploaded for yous guys to see. Pretty Darn Hard route, mate!
Nice work, Holly. Time to get you on some A4 this fall, doncha think? Aurora's the one for you....
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 27, 2008 - 11:48pm PT
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The only time that counts is the first time.
I saw a hummingbird feed off a flower up there.
I was so beautiful.
I didn't want the climb to ever end ........
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 28, 2008 - 11:05am PT
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You'd have loved it up there this spring season, Werner. The hummingbirds were all over the place, especially in the flowers on the Bearing Straights of P.O. Wall. One morning on BUBS, a hummingbird flew right inside my portaledge straps, and buzzed around me for ten or fifteen seconds. I offered him some coffee, but he took off for flowers instead - amazing!
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Just thought I would chime in here with my "impressive" total of 2!
More to mention the names of 3 oldtimers who many of you know"
The Nose with George Myers& The Salathe with Jim Donini back around 1972- 1973. Just had a long conversation with Jimmy Dunn about an hour ago.
He did the 1st ascent-solo of the Cosmos. He's still out there climbing-almost everyday. I just broke my ankle,AGAIN, and am spending more time than usual surfing the net. 1972
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Steve! You gotta talk to Jimmy Dunn and get him to post here on McTopo! I'd sure love to hear his tales. His was the first solo first ascent made on El Cap. I've climbed Cosmos - great route. We trundled one big-ass column of rock off the fifth or sixth pitch.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Jimmy is very modest and avoids publicity; however, I am hoping an article just written by him (today), will be published in Alpinist magazine. It is about the 1st free ascent of the Diagonal route in the Black canyon-done by him and the late Earl Wiggins. It is really GRIPPING! One pitch (rated 5.11) Jimmy did with 2 crappy pieces of gear-neither of which would of held any kind of fall. He essentially
soloed that pitch -way back in 1976!! Jimmy told me about Wiggins, on another occasion, soloing Outer Limits and Bridwell had to turn his back. They couldn't watch it, since they were certain he would fall. That was some bad ass kind of climbing back then. Jimmy emailed me the article and it was really well written. It's about time he finally wrote about his climbing exploits!
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big wall paul
Trad climber
tahoe, CA
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Well, since this thread is at the top again, I'll reveal my meager numbers: 12 ascents by 9 routes.
Highlights were my getting into continuous push climbs with a 24.5 hour ascent of zodiac,
and a 32 hour ascent of the nose.
Last climb was 5 years ago, gotta get back up there before I get too old. 40 yr old now.
Drywall Paul.
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