Aid Practice At Joshua Tree

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Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 2, 2007 - 02:55am PT

Jesus Saw You Take It 5.9 A2+/A3- Climber; Frazier Haney
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2007 - 02:56am PT
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2007 - 02:57am PT
Standing Strong

Trad climber
don't u worry 'bout a thang, baby
Jul 2, 2007 - 03:01am PT
hahahahah! jesus saw you take it.

in CHURCH!!!
Jonny D

Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
Jul 2, 2007 - 11:08am PT
begging to be freed...
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Knob Central
Jul 2, 2007 - 11:42am PT
Exactly, doesn't look too hard to free. Come on Todd, step up and 'send' that baby.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2007 - 04:43pm PT

The Turd Burgler A3-
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2007 - 04:46pm PT

Goof Proof Roof 5.9 A2/A3-
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Knob Central
Jul 2, 2007 - 05:04pm PT
Now THAT ONE ain't going free anytime soon. Keep pounding those pins in though and one day it will!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jul 2, 2007 - 05:24pm PT
So where's the best hanging bivy?
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2007 - 08:59am PT

More Aid climbing at Joshua Tree.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 17, 2007 - 09:58am PT
Todd is either an optimist, or he's still close to the ground!


Check out the nearest pin - girth-hitched pin with no keeper loop. If the pin pulls, you can lose it without a separate [longer and thinner] keeper loop put through the eye, and also clipped into the crab. I prefer pre-tied slipknots in my tie-off loops, and I also use thicker webbing. If you tie the slipknot first, and leave it in place all the time, you end up with a mobius strip tied in your tie-off, but the sling lies nice and flat. Thin tie-off webbing is OK on horizontal cracks like this one, where the maximum force you can generate in a pendulum fall is 2 x your weight [in theory!]

But check out the placement on that LA - it looks as though only the tip of the pin is in the crack! I remember making a bunch of placements like that on the Knifeblade Traverse on Iron Hawk - the arrows would hold in the horizontal crack when hammered in only about a quarter-inch. Much more sporting than placing a circlehead.
wiclimber

Trad climber
devil's lake, wi
Jul 17, 2007 - 10:14am PT
Great pics Todd. Thanks.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2007 - 03:12am PT

Hey McLeod, Get Off of My Ewe A2/A3 Joshua Tree Saddle Rocks (Right of Good Book)
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2007 - 01:08pm PT

Aid Climbing practice at Jumbo Rocks.
Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic
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