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murse
Trad climber
Nashville
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 27, 2007 - 07:41pm PT
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First trip to the aforementioned this coming weekend, what routes would you recommend? Looking for 5.8-5.11, the upper end if they are well protected. And how is the camping in the area?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 27, 2007 - 07:59pm PT
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Hair Lip 5.10a - don't remember it being horribly run, but not great pro either.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 27, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
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The county park costs, but has bathrooms and big f'in boulders too.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Jun 27, 2007 - 08:08pm PT
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I also prefer Idyllwild County Campground to the State Park. Taller trees, more space between sites generally, and bouldering.
You'll have to give us more criteria than ratings to narrow it down. Too many quality routes to mention in that range.
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murse
Trad climber
Nashville
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2007 - 08:19pm PT
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looking for multi pitch, trad, preferrably with minimal R, and no X. But stellar single pitch routes would be great as well if there are several in the same vicinity.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jun 27, 2007 - 08:24pm PT
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To recommend Hairlip ou of all the routes there... That's pretty funny. LOL.
I'd say this. The span between 5.8 and 5.11 up there is huge.
Among my favorites in each grade are:
5.8 - Suicide - Guillotine (kind of serious though.)
5.8 - Tahquitz - Mechanics route.
5.9 - Suicide - Flower of High Rank.
5.10 Tahquitz - El Camino Real
5.11 Suicide - Well it would have to be Valhalla, but don't fall on the second pitch crux...
5.11 Tahquitz - Chingadera is historical and can be histerical too and is well protected. Hit in in end of the day shade though.
That's just a few off the top of the head so to speak. Camp for free and boulder at the south ridge trailhead. Inquire at Nomad Ventures for beta.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Jun 27, 2007 - 08:42pm PT
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When you say "trad," do you mean gear only? There are very few sport bolted routes, but a lot of really good bolted face climbs that aren't X rated that I would put in the trad category because of how and when they were put up.
But assuming you want to plug in your own gear, but don't mind a few bolts:
Consolation .9
Illegitimate .9
Super Pooper .10a/b
The Vampire .11a
Dave's Deviation/Piton Pooper/Royal's Upper Arch combo .9/.10a
El Camino .10a
Traitor Horn .8
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kev
climber
CA
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Jun 27, 2007 - 08:42pm PT
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The Open Book is the first 5.9 ever put up. It's a great climb and
very well protected. It is sustained and solid 5.9 but it is a classic and it's a Robbin's route. Did it a few weeks ago and really didn't need the big stuff. You can easily get by with pro to 3 inches. Double or triple up on 2s and 1's. Human Fright (10a) is great and well protected. Fingertrip 5.8ish was fun and pretty mellow-do the 5.8 lieback variation on P1.
Frustration over at suicide was fun but the pro was work and it's only 1 pitch.
As far as camping the rangers there apparently like dirtbag climbers.They were super cool to us. You can camp for free but to keep them happy pull a fire permit.
Watch out that place gets uber crowed on the weekends. We climbed on a wed,thurs,fri and saw almost no one. On sat
there were 100 $%^^&ing cars in the lot.
have fun, I'm off to the meadows....
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snyd
Sport climber
Lexington, KY
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Jun 27, 2007 - 09:15pm PT
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Don't miss Insomnia. IMO the best crack climb at either place.
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My Name Is Drew
Big Wall climber
Dogtown, LosAngeles, CA.
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Jun 27, 2007 - 09:21pm PT
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If you have the opportunity to do some aid, the X Cracks are worth a go. Exposed and overhanging, I remember being a bit upset merely following and cleaning Right X.
"....you sure you got me?!" etc. lol
Dunno if they go free. Maybe, but they're likely high end.
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onyourleft
Social climber
SmogAngeles
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Jun 27, 2007 - 09:32pm PT
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With the closure of Williamson, Tahquitz is ever more popular. Wear a helmet. Rockfall is still common. Bring a headlamp too. We foolishly got benighted three pitches from the top on "Whodunit," thanks to too late of a start, and slow parties clogging the route. The nighttime finish and hike out were almost fun, almost.
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Echo
Trad climber
San Diego, CA.
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Jun 27, 2007 - 10:14pm PT
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Daves Deviation was a really fun route, although it came recommended that we only do the first pitch... So thats what we did... Even still, doesn't take all too long and is a very fun route!
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My Name Is Drew
Big Wall climber
Dogtown, LosAngeles, CA.
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Jun 27, 2007 - 10:20pm PT
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And for Pete's Sake bring lightweight approach shoes!
omg....memories of the hike up to Taquitz in way undersized Fire's, feet bleeding....but you just ignore it.
No need, bring sneakers; easy enough to clip em to your sling.
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murse
Trad climber
San Clemente
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2007 - 11:32pm PT
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many thanks for the beta.
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Thom
Trad climber
South Orange County, CA
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Jun 27, 2007 - 11:32pm PT
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Doesn't anyone climb here anymore? Jeez...
Here's your "must do list"...
Tahquitz:
Coffin Nail to Traitor Horn finish 5.7/5.8
Long Climb (with direct start on Wong Climb) 5.8
The Illegitimate 5.9
Open Book 5.9
Whodunit 5.9
El Camino Real 5.10a
Human Fright 5.10a
The Step 5.10a
Super Pooper 5.10a
The Vampire 5.11a
Chingadera 5.11a
The Green Arch 5.11b/c
Suicide:
Flower of High Rank 5.9
Sundance 5.10b
Iron Cross 5.11a
Valhalla 5.11a
Insomnia 5.11b/c
Several more routes worth doing (routes on the Weeping Wall, for instance) but if you've limited time the "must do" routes above will leave you happily trashed at the end of your visit.
Enjoy,
T.
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Jun 27, 2007 - 11:38pm PT
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THom knows it.
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Jun 27, 2007 - 11:41pm PT
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All you looking for cragging experiences with out the crowds need to check out the Big Bear area get the hidden treasures book from Brad Singer. Should be a new version comming out soon. Awesome crack and sport climbing. Somebody post some pics eh.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jun 27, 2007 - 11:53pm PT
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Does anyone climb here anymore?
Jeez man. I'm up there all the time. The poor sod said he was looking for 5.8-5.11 and at least implied not to bold at the top end. Iron Cross at .11a is a good bet must do for him for sure then, eh..?
Using a 3 star max rating, Thoms list should look like this:
Tahquitz:
Coffin Nail to Traitor Horn finish 5.7/5.8 **
Long Climb (with direct start on Wong Climb) 5.8 (no stars at all. loose and a waste of time.)
The Illegitimate 5.9 *
Open Book 5.9 ***
Whodunit 5.9 ***
El Camino Real 5.10a ** (would be 3 but it's really got one good pitch..)
Human Fright 5.10a *
The Step 5.10a *
Super Pooper 5.10a *
The Vampire 5.11a ***
Chingadera 5.11a **
The Green Arch 5.11b/c *** (unfortunately this fine route has been the scene of scandalous over use of pitons.)
Suicide:
Flower of High Rank 5.9 ***
Sundance 5.10b **
Iron Cross 5.11a *** (one of my faves, but most likely 11b to lead well.)
Valhalla 5.11a ***
Insomnia 5.11b/c ***!! The pitch to send in Idyllwild. Unless you are up to the harder one's.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jun 28, 2007 - 12:18am PT
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I'd add the Daves, Piton Pooper, Upper Royals Arch link up.
Illigitimate is two good pitches and then lots of 5.easy.
Nothing loose on the Wong/Long, I'd give it ** at least. Sahara Terror classic but some looseness to deal with. (Ask around why the alternate name is Farewell to Arms).
Mechanics is a must do for historical reference if no other reason. Think about doing it with nothing bigger than a ring flat piton, tennis shoes and a hemp rope.
Suicide
Suprise,10K Gold (maybe a bit on the bold side)
Surpentine and Revelation beter protected alternatives.
I'd give Sundance *** do the Sundike finish.
You didn't say where you are coming from. Depending on past experience your rating scale may be in for some adjustment.
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reddirt
climber
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Jun 28, 2007 - 12:46am PT
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hope I'm not the jerk who messes up the width of this thread but here goes. This was, I think, my first climbing on slab (Serpentine)... then I scooched up th side to take this shot of my partners.
btw, Fluoride, per our conversation outside the little girls' room at the original sushifest, I'm game for doin' Mechanic's the clean or dirty whenever you are ; P
jpw
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 28, 2007 - 01:11am PT
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"To recommend Hairlip ou of all the routes there... That's pretty funny. LOL."
just seems weird since it is the first reply is all. I knew everyone would eventually consensus around other lines like Flower and Serpentine.
Throwing it out there because it was funky and aesthetic at the same time. Unusual in a way.
but hey, I'm a fungi. :)
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reddirt
climber
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Jun 28, 2007 - 01:15am PT
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moooooan, fungi... that stupid joke is on one of the stupid test prep cd's I should be absorbed in right now. Busted again, munge, i know ; P
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curlie
Trad climber
SLO, CA
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Jun 28, 2007 - 02:07am PT
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Too bad Tahquitz & Suicide are so far away from SLO...
I always liked Serpentine (5.9) at Suicide. Plus Razor's Edge is a nice 5.8. Delilah is...interesting as well (5.8 or 5.9 depending on the book you have). Flower of High Rank is great, one of those burly 5.9s.
Traitor Horn (5.8) at Tahquitz is the best! I had the pleasure of watching someone on it the first time I was there -- I knew I had to come back and lead it after I found out it was "only" 5.8! The rating on the Open Book always cracks me up -- the first and THE classic 5.9 -- with what I swear is a 5.10b opening boulder move!!! But that's just my opinion. A fine route, really. I'm glad Kris says the Long Climb isn't worth it. That means I don't have to go back and finish it. My partner and I ran out of time and routefinding skills one day and ended up finishing on some other 5.4....
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PMS
climber
Woodland Park, CO
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Jun 28, 2007 - 09:35am PT
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Jun 28, 2007 - 10:47am PT
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There was a good thread on this a while back - I don't have time to search it out, but it's good - worth printing!
-A
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 20, 2007 - 05:01pm PT
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Slab climbing at Suicide.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 20, 2007 - 05:50pm PT
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whoa, that pic makes me dizzy
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jul 20, 2007 - 06:52pm PT
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Kev said,
"The Open Book is the first 5.9 ever put up."
Interestingly, 5.10 was put up before 5.9, when Harold Goodro climbed Goodro's Wall in Salt Lake City's Big Cottonwood Canyon, in 1949.
In 1951, Robbins did the first 5.9 in Yosemite, leading the Robbins Variation on Higher Cathedral Spire (although initially they didn't know how to rate it, and the rating came later).
In 1952, Robbins led the Open Book free, at 5.9 (in tennis shoes). At the time, the decimal system hadn't even been developed, and all these gradings came in after the fact.
I also think it's likely some wild European spirits such as Oliver Perry-Smith (American, living overseas) were doing 5.9 in the early 1900s in Dresden, for example, well before we started creating it here.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 20, 2007 - 06:55pm PT
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Open Book (5.9)
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Jul 20, 2007 - 09:06pm PT
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Pat, I also read (but not on the internet) that a Whillans off-
width problem from the '50s is now rated 5.11d,
and that Berndt Arnold was climbing 5.12 in the 50s.
Think so?
to the OP, if you climb Open Book and Mechanic's Route, you
won't feel cheated. You could also throw in Traitor Horn.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jul 20, 2007 - 10:19pm PT
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As Pat correctly points out, various individuals were climbing technically difficult ground long before the introduction of formal ratings systems. The Decimal System (now called the YDS) was not devised until 1955 or so.
However, it remains true that Open Book was one of a few climbs in the US of that difficulty in 1952 and was considered a significant climb at the time. Perhaps more impressive, was the 1937 ascent of Mechanics route (stout 5.8 R).
Like many areas, Tahquitz and Suicide have a rich history and free climbing tradition which had a profound influence on many succeeding generations of climbers.
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Mimi
climber
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Jul 20, 2007 - 11:38pm PT
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Here's some history from Summit Oct. 1960 with William 'Dolt' Feuerer on Traitor Horn on the cover. Back when 5.8 was considered quite stout and 6.5 was a rating. Only one 5.9 (Consolation) is listed in the route descriptions along with several 6.5s.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 21, 2007 - 12:13am PT
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Wow!
A great historical artifact that!
The other change has been the ratings from Wilts original standards that were based on the relative difficulty of specific routes.
5.0 The Trough now 5.4
5.1 White Maiden now 5.4
5.2 Frightful Variation of the Trough Still 5.2 (this is probably the easiest climb on the rock)
5.3 East Lark now 5.5
5.4 Angel's Fright now 5.6
5.5 Left Ski Track Unchanged
5.6 Sahara Terror now 5.7
5.7 Finger Trip Unchanged (from now on up the scale no changes)
5.8 Mechanics Route. (I've done one hell of a lot of easier 9's)
5.9 Open Book (I've done a lot of easier 10a's)
5.10 Blank This one still doesn't get a lot of traffic and although each pitch's crux is more in the 9+ range every one demands widely different technique.
The only route that has changed has been Angel's Fright. A block came out in the early 70's at the upper crux that made it easier. Before that it had a tooth to surmount that made the upper pitch the crux. Then about a year later more stuff came off and the difficulty returned to about the original level. Other than that there's been no objective justification to changing the ratings.
The Swallow did use to be easier as there was a pebble in the crack you could use for your foot at the crux. It was 5.8 the way Mechanics is 5.8. but it wasn't 10a as now rated.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 21, 2007 - 01:01am PT
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K.Powell at Tahquitz....."Back in the day.".....
" Chuckles" Dave Bruckman on the Sunshine Face.
Piece pulled...ooops....Forest Lawn.......Suicide Rock
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 21, 2007 - 01:08am PT
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Piasano Overhang....(Didn't make it.....)
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 21, 2007 - 01:10am PT
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Suicide;...popular with the "L A " crowd.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Jun 10, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
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Kevin Powell was pretty intense looking back then...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 10, 2011 - 11:22pm PT
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Ksolem's first three are a MUST !!! Everything else is a +.
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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Jun 11, 2011 - 06:12pm PT
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 12, 2011 - 12:57am PT
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climb the edge 5.11...it' s supposed to be great and has bolts : )
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jun 12, 2011 - 01:02am PT
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That guy in the yellow shirt, isn't his name really Mel? Or was it the Little Imp? Moaner?
"Oh man, there I was. Couldn't go up, couldn't go down. Didn't know what I was gonna do..."
A good route at Suicide that doesn't seem to get mentioned much: Disco Jesus. Good climbing, good protection, good overall route. IMO. Not the most classic route up there, but pretty darn good.
Edit: The Edge is good. And it does have bolts. And it would easily qualify as one of the select best at Tahquitz. But it probably doesn't qualify as well protected per the OP. Same with Rebolting at Suicide, I would say its one of the best at Suicide in that grade range but it doesn't seem to fit the criteria.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jun 12, 2011 - 01:28am PT
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Its a sport climb right? I saw bolts/bolted anchor. Thats sport.
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fairweather
Mountain climber
Roseville, CA
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The Step at Tahquitz back in the days before it was upgraded to 5.10a. I hadn't been climbing very long when I did it, and it was very humbling. I figured if that was 5.8, I may never get up a 5.9.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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There are so many good/great routes up there. No one mentioned The Iron Cross 5.11.
Here is Dave Tapes (Wonderly)on the first pitch.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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I've always been very partial to Pink Royd. One of my favorites.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Where are you from? What are previous multi pitch trad (gear) routes you have done? What are your route finding skills? Slab, crack skills? Comfortable with trad pro and setting up trad belays (no bolts)?
Tahquitz and Suicide are generally runout. Longer routes on Tahquitz need route finding skillz.
People here are steering you to some pretty stout climbs.
Graham Cracker and the Guillotine are 5.6 and 5.8. Traitor Horn is 5.8/9 and pretty fun.
Based on what you have provided it would be prudent to start on easier routes.
Suicide sunshine face has some good bolted stuff but they are runout; some you are over 30' up before the first clip and 30' to the next.
Have fun and be safe.
edit: just noticed the OP date. never mind.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Graham Cracker and the Guillotine are 5.6 and 5.8 Thinking about heading up there one Sunday to take my daughter up the former (and maybe the latter). I haven't been over to the north side of Suicide for a few years but remember it getting more and more crowded every year. Is it pretty assured to be a zoo? Unlike Josh, you don't always have the option of just walking and finding something else further from the road.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Fat Dad-
Been ages since I've been there. I'll leave this to those more in tune with the current situation.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Yep, the north side of Suicide can be pretty zoo-y on prime weekends...the far end is popular with groups.
Or you might luck out, and have the place to yourself. Have fun!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Thinking about heading up there one Sunday to take my daughter up the former (and maybe the latter). I haven't been over to the north side of Suicide for a few years but remember it getting more and more crowded every year.
BITD, if you started hiking up at first light you were good to go. Besides, you don't want anyone above you. Just my thoughts.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Thanks guys.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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The last times I have been up there (read that as the last 10 years), at either rock, there have been virtually no crowds anywhere.
One rule. Do not start a route on the N side of Tahquitz with ANYONE above you....as far as the eye can see.
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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One rule. Do not start a route on the N side of Tahquitz with ANYONE above you....as far as the eye can see.
Agreed, some very sound advice that I wish someone had given to me BITD. Had to learn the hard way. Loose rock + easy grades + bumbling noobs = disaster
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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The Troll (Dave/Kelly Vaught) on either Sundance or Valhalla. I think it was Valhalla.
No, looks more like Sundance.
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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^^valhalla
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Sorry DE, but that isn't Sundance. You got it right the first time when you said Valhalla.
No Go Ledge is too far on the right side to be that directly underneath when looking down Sundance. Plus, there are no ribs like that on Sundance.
Edit: ha, got beat to the punch by a minute
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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I knew you guys would know which route that is with the Troll!
Rob Raker on Zig Zags in '84, note swami and EB's.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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I met the 'Troll' once time up at the South Ridge. Watched him press out some lowball mantle thing like it was nothing. He rolled on to something else and I tried the mantle that looked easy, especially after he did it.
I eventually got it but I was going, "f*#k!" How easy he climbed being how big he is was pretty impressive.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jun 22, 2016 - 08:16pm PT
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All the afore mentioned are so much fluff. This is the only route you need to do. Ofcourse the original flavor has chaned somewhat do to that old bolt being changed out....
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 23, 2016 - 12:05am PT
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So either Ian took that pic the day we were up there or you've sandbagged us having done it previously :-)
That was quite a day. Turboflange / Edge, Bat Crack Laps / then carrying the headless body down to the parking lot (fact).
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Jun 23, 2016 - 10:16am PT
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What's up with the headless body?
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Jun 23, 2016 - 10:44am PT
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I know talk about floating one out there and then leaving you hanging.
I also know he has posted the story here before
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