West Face El Cap

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bobmarley

Trad climber

auburn, california

Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 13, 2007 - 05:08pm PT

i did this route back in 2005 and i'm getting ready to go for it again. a classic route with a lot of history, and simply a fun climb with a lot of demanding pitches to a proud summit.

who's done it? what's your beta? stories? epics? pics? i'd like to hear about it.

1 thing i DO remember that i was wondering about is that gnarly tat anchor on pitch 6 or 7. the first 11c pitch. what is the story behind that anchor? it's right in the middle of the crux!?

here's a couple pics from 2005:

brian leading the 1st pitch. what a GNARLY crimp slab move right from the get-go. my fingers were numb for about an hour after seconding.

2nd pitch. excellent but demanding.

me going into the 1st crux pitch 6/7 with the tat anchor at the crux.

the excellent 11c roof pitch 7/8.

doing the crazy traverse at pitch 9.

the excellent 10d pitch before thanksgiving ledge.

last pitch to thanksgiving ledge. after this pitch it's a cakewalk!

Dog

climber

Jun 13, 2007 - 05:22pm PT

Cool pictures!

I gotta get up there and do this thing!

Hey junior, where are you?

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Jun 13, 2007 - 05:26pm PT

nice lil' tr!

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Jun 13, 2007 - 05:27pm PT

did that route with john wason in '88. a most excellent adventure. took us about 10 hours and we were pretty fried when we got to the top. the trick for skipping the mank anchor on the 11c thin crack pitch is setting up a hanging belay about 40' below it in the hand crack before it starts to narrow to fingers. that lets you go all the way to the good ledge about 30 - 40' past the hangerless bolt.

are those ratings you gave on the latest topo? buncha pitches musta been upgraded since the first blue ('86?) meyer's guide...

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Jun 13, 2007 - 05:35pm PT

Nice route. The first time I did it was with Corbett in a long day back in 1982, or so. I had worked until almost midnight and met him in the bar. We planned on Sentinel but when I arrived, he said, let's go for El Cap! My eyes got wide. We woke up a friend and borrowed some gear, and I hiked off with him, having not slept.

We started in the dark and the first two pitches weren't fixed like they are now. It was pretty stiff aid such that when Corbett cleaned my lead on pitch 2, I watched his headlamp light skip across the face as just the weight him jugging the rope zippered a few pieces.

I got my thrill on the next pitch when I cleaned two cams behind a tv sized block. The block came off in my hands and I aikidoed it past me but it sailed right toward the loop in the rope where I tied in short for jugging. I yelled "Holy Shit!!" and then there was silence until the block barely missed the rope and make a tremendous crashing sound when it disintegrated at the base. Finally yelled up to Mike that I was OK. Everything went fine until we hit the top about 7 and decided our chances of survival would be enhanced by walking down the falls trail instead of the East Ledges.

There was still snow on the rim, we got separated and Mike had both headlamps. I caught up with him just as it became pitch dark. I think we basically rescued a couple T-Shirt and Shorts folks crawling down the falls trail with no moon and no light but lots of mist!

Good times that I wouldn't care to repeat.

But I did repeat the route years later leading in blocks with a 17 year old kid. WAY faster than the first time. (helps not having to nail for starters)

peace

Karl

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Jun 13, 2007 - 05:49pm PT

mark

climber

san diego, ca

Jun 13, 2007 - 06:22pm PT

Climbed it in 2002 or so with my Russian friend. We took off in the morning after fixing the first two pitches the day before. He had pitch 2 and took a whipper after going high over the left traversing undercling and started up the blank face after the fixed pin, going and going he began to realize that he was screwed and starting to try and down climb. Way out from the pin and having only 1 piece between the pin and I made me a little nervous, he fell and flipped upside down and slammed against the face. The pin held, I finished the lead and we slept. The next morning he gets up and has major pain in his side, we go anyways. We do the climb and in his typical style he runs out of his 16 oz. of water and is mooching from me and does not bring shoes for the descent but wears his slippers. On pitch 2 stay in the undercling to its end where you can naturally go up. Cool climb, just don't break a rib on the second pitch as he did.

JLP

Social climber

The internet

Jun 13, 2007 - 06:33pm PT

Nice pix. Brings back memories, as many photos here do, especially for climbs where I have none of my own. Excellent stuff.

I recall leading those first 2 pitches early one AM. If I had seen your photos first, I would have tried to get my partner to agree to leading them, as they look thin and scary.

I recall an extremely high quality climb. I also thought it was a more demanding climb than Half Dome Regular route, and took us a little longer to do.

JLP

WBraun

climber

Jun 13, 2007 - 10:06pm PT

One of the best routes on El Cap. A super free climb.

I did not look at the topo nor took one when me and Merry did it.

Got lost once, but loved having to figure out where to go.

We did not take any aid ladders or jumars. We climbed it like a free climb and the second followed the pitches.

The steep crack (5.11 c) pitch was a blast.

Do it .......

Largo

Sport climber

Venice, Ca

Jun 13, 2007 - 11:00pm PT

In 1976, Dale Bard and I on-sighted this route in five hours. This was the second one-day ascent of El Cap but none of us really considered this since the West Face, though a great route, is not on the main wall and is really a high-angled slab. I was really upset that we didn't see the free climbing possibilities because we both could have free climbed the thing back then. I went back, I think in 1980 with Dwight Brooks and thought as so far as leading goes, the 2nd pitch was he crux. That's a great old-style trad route.

An interesting note is that when Dale and I climbed this route I'm almost cerain that we got off route and bypassed the .11c pitch via a horrific run out slab (only 5.10a but almost no pro). We got to the top before the sun hit the wall.

JL

Darryl Cramer

Social climber

Jun 14, 2007 - 01:32am PT

I climbed it in the early 80s and the second pitch was by far the hardest to lead. I know it's not fashionable but we spent the night out on the ledge right after the traverse and had a short second day. Slept in our shorts and a sweatshirt. We didn't see or hear another climber the entire time. Good times. Although we did have minor route finding problems right after the traverse.

Since I didn't take any pictures, I am loving the ones posted here.

mcreel

climber

Barcelona, Spain

Jun 14, 2007 - 04:20am PT

I did that route back in '89 or so. We made the big mistake of planning to bivvy on the route. The second carried a pack and jumared, which was worse than regular hauling. If I were to do it again, which I'd love to, I would fix the first 2 pitches and then go for it, with some powerbars, electrolytes and a little water. It'd be a lot more fun that way. Another time I tried to do the N Face of Middle Cathedral, also with a pack and planning to bivvy. When I explained that adventure to Walt S. he bugged his eyes out and said something like "you hauled on the N. Face?! I don't believe it!" (but in a much more entertaining way). The stupidity of our plan was obvious to Walt, and it's probably obvious to the youngsters now, but back in the day, grade VI was intimidating to the weekend warrior.

Man, I remember some incredibly featured rock with jugs all over. Great climbing!

Lando

climber

Tulsa

Jun 14, 2007 - 04:38am PT

I just did it in May....

use a 70m rope....makes linking pitches on that route cake....and turns the first 11c into one big 67m pitch(ledge to ledge)....I think we did the part below the Thanksgiving ledge in 12 pitches swinging leads...after thanksgiving we took off the rope and gear and soloed out. Nothing bigger than a #3 camalot is needed and take only one of those.

WBraun is right, it's one of the best free routes in the Valley! We started in the light and were back to the car well before dark....Man! Some of those easier chckenheaded pitches are great!

A must do for sure! Yeehaa!

rmuir

Social climber

the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.

Jun 14, 2007 - 08:49pm PT

We did the West Face back in September, 1972, in the days of knickers, knee socks and PAs. When it was VI 5.9 A4. Someone in C4 told us it might have been the fourth ascent, and because we had a certified French guide (Dominic Thomas) in our party, he also claimed the first French ascent. Along with Dennis Bird and Jim Hoagland, we had a wonderful time--although the old-school hammock bivouac was a long night to forget.

My clearest recollections of that route are of the SUPERB rock quality--very much like the best of Tahquitz. Anyone have a photo of that pitch with all the huge quartz crystals?

I dug out some of the old slides... Here are a few:

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Jun 14, 2007 - 09:49pm PT

hey robs, is jim hoagland any relation to john hoagland, long time wasatch-cache NF employee in salt lake city? i worked with john a lot and understood he had some family climber connections....

briand

Trad climber

bay area

Jun 15, 2007 - 02:35am PT

Did it 2 years ago and had a blast. One of the best climbs and most memorable days for me. Took longer to get to the base then we anticipated but still got to the top by sunset. Would have topped out sooner but there was a party in front of us that was a little slower. Did the east ledges in the dark which wasn't very fun.
Combining pitches with a 70m rope is the way to go. We used a 60m and ended up doing a little simul. from time to time trying to stretch pitches. And as above, on the .11c pitch with the tat anchor, you can set up a belay at the end of hand/beginning of finger section or just combine the two if using a 70m.
Loved the fun, easy and exposed face/crack climbing up high.

climbingbuzz

Trad climber

SF, CA

Jun 15, 2007 - 01:07pm PT

We climbed the West Face April 1. Some wetness made for a spicy 3rd pitch. We couldn't believe the route doesn't get 3/3 stars in the guide.

The rock is fantastic and uncharacteristically featured for El Cap.

We thought this traverse was super fun.

Rmuir, a picture of the crystal pitch. Amazing feature!

I went too far to the right after the crystals and wound up having to go across this slab to get back on route. Turned out it was easy and fun.

The top out was amazing! That El Cap summit buzz is hard to beat.

Patrick Sawyer

climber

Originally California now Ireland

Jun 15, 2007 - 01:46pm PT

I would really like to climb that route, if for no other reason than in memory of Peter Barton, who I was going to do the route with in June 1975.

Peter went up to do it with Dale and unfortunately there was a tragedy on the approach gully. Peter was a very, very nice guy. RIP Peter.

And I am going to do that route someday.

Melissa

Gym climber

berkeley, ca

Jun 15, 2007 - 01:51pm PT

Great pics, climbingbuzz! That makes me want to get up there. Too bad it's out of my league! :-(

Watusi

Social climber

Joshua Tree, CA

Jun 16, 2007 - 03:25am PT

I had the great priviledge of doing this fine route with the eminent "E" Eric Erickson in the early 80's and at the time it was a fun stroll! As we hiked it and had a blast!!!

Jingy

Social climber

Flatland, Ca

Jun 16, 2007 - 03:31am PT

bobmarley - Wow!! Awesome photos. The pics gave me the sense that I might be able to do the climb.

Then I read the description... I couldn't bring it!

Good stuff. Have fun on the next climb, and be sure to post up that trip report!

Jaybro

Social climber

The West

Jun 16, 2007 - 12:31pm PT

No way it's out of your league, Melissa. The Colonel and I did it back when dinosaurs rulled the earth and, between us, we didn't have half your moves. Go do it!

426

Sport climber

Buzzard Point, TN

Jun 16, 2007 - 12:37pm PT

I agree with Jaybro, it's an "every(wo)man" kind of route. Goes at 5.9 A1-ish if you want it to...

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Jun 16, 2007 - 01:02pm PT

Young Charlie Jackson from Connecticut and I did this route late July or early August, 1971 in one and a half days. I relate the story in an earlier thread.

These are great photos, btw! You don’t see photos of this route usually. Long and I are still kicking ourselves about missing this great FFA...it just doesn’t make sense, looking back now, that we overlooked it.

But whatever; it is a really really interesting climb, happy actually, and so unique. It is even a bit of a fantasy, really. Slabby routes usually seem like holidays! It was A4 at the time too, so given those few tough placements and all the other ordinary aided parts, no one had thought to look at it as a free climb. No large El Cap route had gone free at this point, or even received serious attention in that respect. I hooked past the only bolt on the whole route, to make it the only bigger El Cap route without bolts at the time.

big wall paul

Trad climber

tahoe, CA

Jun 16, 2007 - 02:35pm PT

I climbed it with my brother in 97. We did it in two days bigwall style, freeing up to 5.9 or so. We didn't do the first and second pitches, because I had fixed lines after bailing off Realm Of Flying Monkeys (that's the only route that I bailed off due to being too wigged out! [on the big arch to the right]). Anyway, my brother and I had an a bit of an epic because we never discussed what food to bring. It turned out we only had a two liter of water, one can of chili, and a handful of hard candy. Just that in the middle of summer. Well, the second day we did find a bottle of water behind a flake about 5 pitches from the top, and at the top, we encountered some hikers with extra food.
Drywall Paul.

JLP

Social climber

The internet

Jun 16, 2007 - 03:19pm PT

I wouldn't say 9 A1 is representative of the first 2 pitches, or even much of the rest of the route for that matter.

JLP

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Jun 17, 2007 - 02:16pm PT

Warb:

Here he is bouldering with Schoen and George Meyers (in red pullover).

Mark:
No the one bolt that RR and TM put on the West Face route was for that spot near the top of the second pitch. That ledge about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way up that had no bolt but got a bolt pretty quickly later.

Hummerchine

Trad climber

East Wenatchee, WA

Jun 17, 2007 - 02:23pm PT

I did the route about 18 years ago with Brian Povolny, we both loved it. Those crystals are amazing, I remember in one place you can literally see through the rock like a window. Really cool. I was in the Valley for two weeks, Povolny shows up after a trip to Europe in excellent shape. First day we climbed with Terry Lien and Steve Strong, went to the Cookie and did Crack a Go Go, Haard, Red Zinger, probably other stuff I don't remember. Next day did Snake Dike on Half Dome. Next day hiked up and fixed the first two pitchs of West Face, it's a good idea to scope out the approach. I feel certain we would never have found our way in the dark without having been up there already. The second pitch we did aid, it seemed too dicey right off the belay. Poor gear and slippery rock. I remember thinking the thing to do would be to aid up a bit, get in good gear, then lower down and free the rest of the pitch. Next day up super early, hiked up in dark, got to top about 6:00PM. Next day Povolny goes home, nice little trip to Yosemite! I hope to do the route again someday, it is incredible.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Jun 17, 2007 - 02:25pm PT

Outstanding thread folks! Kevin- what a sick feeling watching that chopper go in. We all know how marginal choppers are even with aces piloting them. Pete Barton fell because he trusted a manzanita while scrambling so think twice before yarding up on the vegetation, shallow roots and all. Another warning with so many people on the Captain these days. If a chopper is ANYWHERE in your drop zone below, stop all climbing. ANY piece that happens to fall has the potential to take out a working airship, so be patient and wait.

I walked up to do the West Face with a haulbag back in the early eighties and decided not to do the route in that way once at the base. "When you are on the Big Stone, you ain't got time for sack hauling." Bob Big Stone

Largo- so you are the source of the dotted line bypass on pitch 7. Good thing the stone is so clean. Says 10c in the 82 Meyers guide.

Great srories all.

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Jun 17, 2007 - 09:26pm PT

steve -- i still remember you telling me to stay "heads up" on the approach to the west face.

as i was basically a short/hard/free guy on my way to do the longest rock route i ever did, it was sound advice.

WBraun

climber

Jun 17, 2007 - 10:52pm PT

Yeah this is the Barton recovery crash. Peter had just gotten married a week or so earlier. Remember?

WBraun

climber

Jun 17, 2007 - 11:11pm PT

Kevin

This photo is from the nps archives and Dill says it's the real McCoy.

Me, ..... I don't sh'it ......

WBraun

climber

Jun 17, 2007 - 11:54pm PT

How about this one Kevin. Kathy those were some moments. It was traumatic that Barton tragedy.

Anne-Marie Rizzi

climber

Jun 18, 2007 - 01:05am PT

Peter's death was one of the big heartbreaks in my life. I remembered the anniversary for years. June 16th??

He married Kaethe Kuropat. They were radiant around each other.

I was at his wake with Kaethe and Peter's family, held in Curry Village somewhere. Lotsa tears, lotsa beer, lotsa laughter.

Kaethe later moved to Colorado and, the last I heard, was in the Seattle area.

Anne-Marie

bobmarley

Trad climber

auburn, california

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 01:14am PT

wow thanks for the replies everyone! i did not know about peter barton and the helicopter accident. RIP peter.

i did the route again saturday with my good friend wyatt. i was thinking about that accident and all the stories while doing the approach saturday morning. it's definitely a headsup approach, and with the added history, it had me a little more gripped.

we took a rack up to 3.5, but as someone else pointed out in this thread, you do not need anything larger than a 3, and only one of those. i will stand by that beta.

here is the west face in all it's glory. route starts on top of the huge block above the trees. it goes straight up, but stays left of the huge arch. if you look close you can see the cruxy 2nd pitch. it is the thin flake that traverses left towards the white streak.

wyatt friday night. we bivied up at lurking fear. is was hot friday night and we basically got a miserable night's sleep. i'm not even sure the extra work of the bivy really earned us much actually. car-car is prob the way to go, which is how i did it 1st time.

we led in blocks of 4. i took the 1st 4, then wyatt the next 4 etc. here's wyatt leading the 3rd 11c with the tat anchor at the crux. we had a 70m so he led all the way thru w/out setting up the hanging belay. you can BARELY do both pitches, and avoid the hanging belay, with a 70.

gnarly climber at the huge terrace w/ ribbon falls in the background :)

wyatt hiking the 10d pitch above the terrace. these pitches feel more like tuolumne than yosemite! amazing rock.

at the summit (thirsty) with plenty of light for the descent.

Patrick Sawyer

climber

Originally California now Ireland

Jun 18, 2007 - 10:17am PT

Not to hijack this thread with Pete's tragedy, but...

Anne-Marie I always thought it was Kathy Barton, I didn't realise her name was spelt that way, and Kath, I recall her hair being more strawberry blonde but I could be wrong, it was a while ago. I remember Pete's family coming out from Virginia (I think it was Virginia, if I recall, but I am beginning to worry about my memory).

Dale was, understandably, quite shook up and I was talking with him later and he was bemoaning the fact that he didn’t have any real first aid training and was going to get some proper training, but from what I understand, nothing could have helped Pete, even if he was teletransported to a surgical unit with a surgical team on the ready.

Largo

Sport climber

Venice, Ca

Jun 18, 2007 - 11:55am PT

That's an amazing story well told, Kevin. You gotta do some more of those. I can just see Richard up there blubbering around. None of us had much experience with hard aid back then, but Richard was always good at it.

Peter B. was good people and a talented face climber. He was the first to lead either (can't remember) the second or third pitch of Stoner's Highway. We had no idea where the route was going to go and Peter just went for it. Pretty courageous for the time.

From what I understood about his accident on the approach to the West Face, the fall was such that Peter basically had no chance. That's some crazy, tragic bad luck there.

Steve G. said: "Largo- so you are the source of the dotted line bypass on pitch 7. Good thing the stone is so clean. Says 10c in the 82 Meyers guide."

Dale and I didn't want to get stranded up there with no bivy gear and no rations. We had no idea how long the route might take us. We didn't have much of a topo either - might not have had one at all. Can't recall. Anyhow, we were rushing things, not really scouting the line real well. The "dotted line bypass pitch" looked casual from below, and the climbing was only hard in one or two spots (not .10c, more like .10a) but pretty scarce pro. But the rock there is amazingly featured. Huge crystals and flakes and so forth.

I think the West Face had been climbed no more than a dozen times when Dale and I climbed it '76. But the first few pitches had obviolusly been climbed more than that, and were getting beat out and fixed with junk. There was a section toward the end of the second pitch that had a long stretch of real mank - sketchey heads and bashies and other trash. The stuff only held (as aid placements) becuase it was relatively low angled. I remember when I went back and freed those first two pitches I was somewhat amazed. I never got to free that 11c pitch up high. That looks good.

JL

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Jun 18, 2007 - 12:21pm PT

I think it was RR that once described the West Face as the Captain's lunatic cousin, or something to that effect, because the rock character is so different and unique once you round the corner. Nice pics and beta. Gotta do it sometime soon.

Marshall

climber

bay area

Jun 18, 2007 - 02:29pm PT

nice job patO! looks like you guys cruised.

David Wilson

climber

Aug 28, 2009 - 12:10am PT

Galen Rowell and I did the route in 1985 or 86. What a great day. We fixed two pitches and bivied at the base with Eric Brand who was nice enough to shlep our gear back to the meadow the next day. I had the hard pitches and, as I remember, I grabbed that mid way belay anchor shamelessly on the 11c crack, right in the crux. Otherwise, it went without falls and we topped out after seven hours. It's a route that's been on my list to repeat now for three years, just the valley has a way of lengthening your list....

Studly

Trad climber

Aug 28, 2009 - 12:55am PT

Amazing history. Can't we get rid of all the politcal crap and just have climbing threads like this? This is whats its all about, and to hear the stories of the guys that went before just makes the climb so much cooler once I get on it. Stoked!

Roxy

Trad climber

CA Central Coast

Aug 28, 2009 - 01:24am PT

what Studly said

Totally enriches the route.

k-man

Gym climber

SCruz

Aug 28, 2009 - 02:40am PT

If memory serves, and sometimes it does, we made the second pitch quite a bit easier by stepping way out left and face-climbing up to the apex of the shallow arch. Pro as high as you can in the arch before you make the step out left.

I belayed at the "mank" belay in the middle of that crux up there, and my buddy Tom came up, grabbed the gear without weighting the anchor, and climbed through. I thought that was cool.

And that .10d pitch, what a climb!!

tonesfrommars

climber

Aug 28, 2009 - 03:32am PT

Hans Florine and Andy Puhvel dragged me up the west face sometime around '89 or '90. They were scoping it out for a speed ascent, maybe a link-up with another wall or something (can't remember now) I was basically along for the ride in my tennis shoes and aiders. After the ledge, all 3 of us simul-climbing to the top. 6 hours all together. That was fun.

oldcragster

Gym climber

Aug 28, 2009 - 12:37pm PT

enlightening thread everyone! climbed it first time in late 80's over 2 days with Will Cottrel as a wall climb...what a pain. Haven't used jumars or hauled since. Went back in early 90's with Mark Rodgers. small rack, one rope..adventure for sure. some of the best climbing, rock, views, etc. We got lost once. Pulled on pieces a few times, after failing crux moves...more interested in topping out early. 6 rappels I think down east ledges. once in vehicle, raced to four seasons...one minute to 9pm...last ones in! Lo and behold, big-wall Pete is our waiter to boot. He tells us he had recently done it with his girl friend. Truly a day to remember!
Gene Drake

Fuzzywuzzy

climber

Aug 28, 2009 - 12:51pm PT

Kevin

I remember that day. Peter was a great guy. Wild story from your perspective. Chilling.
Climbed it back in 77. As a wall. Bivy on Thanksgiving and wrapped a bundle of firewood with some red 1" webbing for Cochrane and Finn who we knew were doing it the next week!

Great climbing, Like Tuolumne or Charlotte Dome etc.. But Like Sutton says, "Is that even on El Cap??

Summit Shot

dee ee

Mountain climber

citizen of planet Earth

Aug 28, 2009 - 05:24pm PT

"Guns" Fry (Dr. F) and I did it in '78. John (L) had told us about the "10a" variation and Crag got that pitch. It was a wee bit scary. We bivvied but could have easily done it in a day.

DHike

climber

Aug 28, 2009 - 07:14pm PT

Righteous Patrick O,

Glad to see you're still crushing it.

Holler at me if you're ever back up at the summit anytime, and let's jam.

Dan

hooblie

climber

Aug 28, 2009 - 09:29pm PT

as a thankyou gesture to a friend who treated my partner and me like gold all summer in glen aulen, i suggested this route in the fall of '87. he had read the rockcraft book, could jug, rap, belay, take direction and keep his head together. plus anything else he decided to do. this much i knew.

to add flavor and a margin considering the unknown factor involving this alliance, we bivy'ed a couple of pitches up, jettisoned that stuff to his dutiful wife in the am, and trucked on up and over, donning headlamps for the last part of the rappel from the east ledges. just right for full effect. wifey was cruising the loop, spotted us in the headlights and snagged us off the road near manure pile. happy all around.

very nice route. as bookends go, quite a contrast to the east buttress. spent more mental time in the ribbon falls area than having the sense of being on el cap. appreciate the notes about the nature of the rock, that crystal stuff brought me back

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Aug 29, 2009 - 06:06pm PT

Here's a rather in-depth retouch of the Carter/Bard picture on top of the West Face. I guess it was 32 years ago now.

Capt. Buzzkill

Trad climber

Northridge, CA

Aug 29, 2009 - 11:40pm PT

"We fixed two pitches and bivied at the base with Eric Brand who was nice enough to shlep our gear back to the meadow the next day."

When I did the route with Mark Fekkes in the early 80's, my good friend Mike Beck drove us there from Tuolumne, hiked to the base, cooked dinner while we fixed the first two pitches,
shlepped gear back to the car, and met us at the base of the east ledges rappels with cold beers as darkness fell. Oh, and then he drove us back to the meadows. That was an awesome show of ground support.

I agree with Hedge that no fixing is necessary, but firing the first two gave us the confidence to launch the rest with one rope and one goal. The business, besides the approach and the endless slabs at the top, was the second pitch, using stoppers and RP's to back up manky fixed gear in the arches. I did take a scary fall on the last pitch before Thanksgiving Ledge, traversing too high to get to the dihedral.

We had been climbing in Tuolumne awhile, an advantage in elevation and that the West Face's rock is similar.

The question remains. . . Is it an "El Cap Route/Wall" ?

M.O.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Aug 29, 2009 - 11:48pm PT

I've done it three times free and I'll do it again this fall if I get the chance.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Oct 17, 2010 - 12:43pm PT

You folks that have done this route and care about what happens to it, please chime in on this thread.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1207606&msg=1231074#msg1231074

WBraun

climber

Oct 17, 2010 - 12:56pm PT

West Face El Cap is one of the all time best routes in Yosemite.

Don't even look at a topo before you do it.

Don't even take a topo when you do it.

Just do it and figure it out. It requires a little route finding skills which make this route so awesome.

Burn all those fuking topos to this route ......