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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 11, 2007 - 02:40pm PT
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1986 spring break comes and I have just bought my brand new off the lot Toyota truck $5500 bucks. So for the first time ever we have a vehicle that WILL make it across the Dakotas with out a break down.
Devils Tower
We scrape off the winter rust by going to do the durrance route. There are about 15 people hanging out at the base and its a good scene until some guy from Bozeman cries out Rock and then silence and SCRAPE- real low-the rock goes scrape and then it goes BOOOOOOM and thoooom and its getting louder. I crawl into a hole about the size of coffee cup and this pig keeps coming down bouncing wall to wall down the bowling alley. this guy had just run for cover when this big assed rock lands exactly where he was sitting. like an X on some comic cartoon pirate map It smashes into a million fist size pieces. After the obligatory cry of fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck!,like munchkins we all come out to get back to Oz. All of the safe places to hide were taken and one dude was forced to crawl into his own ass to hide!The climb was finished with no other theatrics
We then go over to Walt Bailey and enjoy the small to big fingers to hands
After rapping Walt I am stoked to go back to camp and drink beer when Shawn sez- We are going to do Hollywood and Vine and YOU are going to lead it.
Good move on his part because I never would have come near this part of the world if I knew we were going to do something so stupid.
This is a 10c route and what makes it a little different is that its crux is a thin face instead of the usual tower crack.
Its pretty low angle and I am thinking that I'm the best for the first 50 feet and then things run out. I am about 10 feet above a wired stopper. There is a three finger hold/jam and smearing feet and reaching and reaching and then BANG I get a pretty good finger lock and I twist until I hear bones cracking and then pull up and get in a good jam and man I felt like a star about to Nova.
I thought that move was one of the hardest I ever did.
You go from complete terror to being totally satisfied because of a rock climb.
What a stupid sport-but for a long time I kept going because I was not just a nobody, half assed, college student, on academic probation
NO! I was a nobody, half assed, college student, on academic probation who had led Hollywood and Vine with no falls!
In the '70s Henry Barber had a bad scene soloing this route. i can only imagine
murf
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jun 11, 2007 - 02:47pm PT
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What a great little vignette! thanks!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2007 - 04:21pm PT
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thanks Caught The Hollywood and Vine route was sort of a test piece for the crowd I used to climb with
murf
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Jun 13, 2007 - 04:31pm PT
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Cool story! We should post more of these...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 13, 2007 - 04:44pm PT
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Cool story of a cool time on a cool route, Hobo!
I first climbed Hollywood and Vine about '78, Eb's, painter's pants, Rugby shirt,beard, pony tail, the works. I followed off route chalk and mantled on a hold on the left side arrete, oops! After confirming that I was beached, I attempted to downclimb back back on route and ended up taking a mini whipper onto a stopper. Never made THAT mistake again.
was the Guillotine (sp)still there in '86?
hot Henry said that almost dying soloing H & V made almost dying while soloing Gorilla's whatever (?) seem like a walk in the park.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2007 - 04:50pm PT
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20 years ago today but I don't remember anything being loose. in 1978 that must have been very hard-at least in minnesota there was like very few 5.10 climbers
. I remember my first trip to DT in the summer of 1977 and meeting a short wide strong guy- i have no idea who- and he was looking to climb the 5.11 cracks- if he was good me must have been salivating with all the routes that were available.
murf
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Jun 13, 2007 - 04:57pm PT
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Yeppers, I was up there on that H&V dinking around and on that route next door to the right (?) some old dad was belaying. A guide situation, I believe. Anyway, thinking I wasn't really applying myself, or maybe using too many cams or something, this dude starting waxing poetic about the Vine. This stud who decked. This other big-name who did something else memorable and semi-frightening. And the climax: his recollection of watching Hot Henry through some binos from the road. Recounting in unnecessarily vivid detail the many tenuous up- and down-climbs around the crux and his decision, finally, to set aside the binoculars before it went ugly.
Helluva a route. I didn't get the thing but I can blame it on the distractions.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 13, 2007 - 05:04pm PT
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Hobo, in '77 i'm guessing the short wide guy was eithr;
1) Dennis Horning (aka Dingus Mcgee) Longish Brown hair, glasses
or
2) Bob Scarpelli, short blond hair (almost red)blue eyes
or possibly
3)steve Petro, I thin had hair then and maybe a handelbar mustache
okay back to progress reports
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 13, 2007 - 05:25pm PT
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I always encourage folks to label off-topic posts but this one needed to be labeled On_topic!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 13, 2007 - 05:36pm PT
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Oh yeah, the guillotine was a huge, teetering flake, shaped like the lid of a grand piano. You used to climb right next to it. I jammed behind it on a few ascents. it was poised to polish off the belyaer if it ever left it's eyrie.
One spring we went up H&V and it was gone!
I later heard some smack about some guy from a nearby Bates motel, prying it off in the dead of night in the dead of winter ... but you know how those stories go ...
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Jun 13, 2007 - 05:39pm PT
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Very nice feel that that story Murf. Thanks,
pc
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Jun 13, 2007 - 06:40pm PT
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Around 1982 when we were young, reckless and invincible, John Wilke and I were at Devils Tower for our annual Easter trip. As usual it was cold, snowing and miserable. After getting John to agree that we weren’t climbing I joined him in drinking beer and imbibing in various other substances. Of course John had been drinking beer since breakfast. Sometime later in the day the snow stopped just long enough to convince John that we should go climb Hollywood and Vine. Against my better judgment I agreed as long as he was willing to lead. He was more familiar with climbing in an intoxicated state than I was. The approach was enough to scare me that day. So I ended up belaying with frozen fingers while John started fighting his way up the pitch. The wind was howling. John had a habit of running it out when he got pumped. He was brilliantly talented but never in shape. He was shaking like crazy and I could barely hear him in the Wyoming wind. He just kept getting farther and farther away from any gear. He couldn’t let go to place anything so he just kept climbing. He also had a habit of retching when he got scared. He must have been 30 feet above his gear, shaking and retching his way up the open book. I was sitting on the block at the base wondering if I should untie and get out of the way so I wouldn’t get squashed if/when he came off. As usual he pulled it off though.
John got the coveted first ascent of Spectreman and Vedauwoo in much the same style.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2007 - 07:27pm PT
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That spring trip i was with Shawn Callahan-now lives in tucson area- He was a really strong climber and he had great energy. We used to shake hands at the top of routes and he had these big mitts and he would just crush me
We also did Tulgey Wood- a long fist crack that was an epic for shawn on the lead but I was loving life with that big fat rope above me
Our last climb was El Matador. another Shawn lead and the only time I ever hung off of finger jams to rest my feet.
That was about the best spring trip I did for number and quality of routes- i could never go day after day. The weight from all those tall rocks would eventually psych me out and then it was time to go home.
murf
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spectreman
climber
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Jun 13, 2007 - 08:24pm PT
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Frank told me that he was watching when Hot Henry soloed H&V. He said it was pretty Scary to watch.
Nice story Murf.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 13, 2007 - 08:25pm PT
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How come Frank never shared that one with me?
Did he tell you the belayer without a thumb story?
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MZiebell
Social climber
Prescott, AZ
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Jun 14, 2007 - 08:58am PT
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Anyone know what Dingus is up to these days?
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 14, 2007 - 11:50am PT
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As mentioned in another topic, Klaus is a kidnapper and a sadist. That thing is PTPP's Big Wall Wee-Wee crab, which Klaus stole last year.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 14, 2007 - 11:53am PT
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Last I heard Mr Mcgee was in Laramie being a carpenter.
Did you know he has a titanium plate in his head now?
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Dragon with Matches
climber
Bamboo Grove
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Jun 14, 2007 - 12:06pm PT
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If anyone were to be so sporting as to kindly recount the story about Mr. Barber's adventure... we'd be must obliged.
Had heard he'd hiked; never knew there was drama.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 15, 2007 - 03:23am PT
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The Barber story; ( he told us this story going on 30yrs ago (this fall) and we were all drinking heavily, so the facts MUST be right)
He signed out to climb Hollywood & Vine and the attendant tried to talk him into something a little easier. He became indignant and proclaimed he would do it solo!
So he got up there thought it was hard, hemmed, hawed, went, backed off a move etc. Then went for it 'knowing he was gonna die™!' but he made it!
was that the year Frank was a Ranger? '76 timing would be about right.
Another one from my own quiver ...
Once upon a time three of us; Myself, Mr Friedrichs, from a few posts up, and Will Gilmer climbed it. Fred led the crux with style to spare, and for some reason I followed wearing a pack with a gallon of water in it. I think I figured I'd done it enough times and was such a stud, that I would likewise cruise and be It would a good workout.
-wrong, again!! at least I did get a good workout.
but the funniest part happened on Will's turn. During my flail I wasn't able to clean anut stuck near the crux, we decided that would be Will's job. Through careful planning the nut tool was at t he upper belay.
As I lowered it, enthusiastically, down the climb, it bounced on a nub or something the beaner opened and the tool of damocles shot toward Will's face, at the last moment he jumped out of the way.
I don't remember if Will got the wire out, or not.
I may have combined two events seems like that might have been when Frank got Married, but I don't think Will was there for that.
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MZiebell
Social climber
Prescott, AZ
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Jun 15, 2007 - 04:53pm PT
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Dennis Horning has a titanium plate in his head...
I'm sure this is serious but all the same a smile came across my face... something about being hard-headed maybe?
What's the story?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 16, 2007 - 02:07am PT
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Of all the Frank Sanders' in the world he's the Frank sanders-est*.
Bach to Zep, man.
I'm sure a lot of people here, especially reading this thread, are familiar with the Frank show, but to anyone else, that podcast is just the tip of the iceberg.
-Frank Piano adventure-
We left the valley en route to Davis about 10pm, in Frank's Van, with the gauge on big, "E". I had voted for waiting for the morning, but Frank had life waiting for him.
Michele (meep-meep, honey) and I fell asleep in the back. I woke up briefly somewhere around groveland when Frank pulled into a bar.
"Guess we're bivvying here,"I thought, before passing out again.
Sometime later I woke when Frank started the bus and followed a pickup truck to a closed gas station.
Then some guy got out of the truck turned on the pumps and filled Frank's tank.
WTF?
Maurice the bus was running on Fumes. All the gas stations were closed. Frank followed the sound of piano music into the bar. He talked to the piano dude for a while, then palyed duets with him for some time. He ended up telling the guy the story of havng his rig in the lot with no gas, and having to wait till morning.
The guy wouldn't hear of it and ended up dispatching 'his boy' to open the pumps of his establishment, to tip his fellow piano player.
only Frank...
Of all The Dingus Mcgees in the world ... *
I don't think it's a secret, so I'll tell. Dennis was climbing (with a surgeon)in an undisclosed climbing area north of Colorado when he got clobbered by a rock, fortunately it hit him in the head. An epic hike out with kowledgeble help from his climbing partner led him to the E-room and the titanium plate.
This happened about ten years ago. He started an email with the line "I have a titanium plate in my head," a short while later.
Both/Either,
Frank, 'The Colonel' Sanders
&/or
Dennis Horning, 'Dingus Mcgee'
would make could subjects for dedicated threads if someone feels ambitous.
Back on topic, who freed Hollywood & Vine?
*apologies to Charles Schultz, RIP
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2007 - 11:41am PT
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Great piano story
I don't know who did the ffa. Was the route originally put up by Royal Robbins?
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My Name Is Drew
Big Wall climber
Dogtown, LosAngeles, CA.
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Jun 16, 2007 - 09:11pm PT
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The sudden shift in emotional polarity from grimaced fear to grinning accomplishment is a familiar one of course. Find yourself on some gawdforsaken route in the middle of nowhere asking yourself what the hell was I thinking when and very rapidly approaching the point where you pray for your lives only to reach the top and ask each other which route to do next.
Yep. lol
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 10, 2007 - 12:05am PT
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So what do I have to do to get my big wall crab back? Have I not begged enough? Have we not had enough "fun"?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 10, 2007 - 01:18am PT
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good post dredging
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 10, 2007 - 01:19am PT
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I've, like, been up on the wall a while, eh?
And while there is something to be said for ovine ascents [like "baaaaaa!" for instance] I really prefer climbing with crustaceans.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
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bump for Devils Tower
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homemade salsa
Trad climber
west tetons
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Aug 25, 2009 - 08:14pm PT
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Hey Murph- Hobo Dan- that summer you and Shawn Callahan climbed together at the Tower- remember climbing with one of rangers? Well that was me, the one year I worked for the park service, poaching partners from the climbers cars as I took their money at the entrance station.
I ran into Shawn at the hot springs outside Mammoth one day- he came up to my truck (with WY plates) and asked me if I knew lynne wolfe. Now that is me, and I looked at him funny and said "who wants to know" sortof a weird moment. Then we played the "do you remember" game and had a great time. That was my first climb of El Mat, and it kicked my butt.
But I sure do love that Hollywood and Vine... remember that a #4 RP is the key to the crux, as is remembering to breathe as you stand on insecure obtuse angle stems. So many good memories...
I think the ranger that broke his ankle was Dick Guilmette, and someone might have been climbing with Jim Schlinkman, who was road patrol there in the 80s, went on to JTree and back to the Tower as Superintendant, not sure if he is still there. My summer there (1984) was the summer that Todd Skinner and Beth Wald were living in a teepee at the KOA, freeing a bunch of the old aid routes. They'd come shower at my crackerbox ranger housing apartment and we'd get in trouble for making too much noise.
I would do these "climbing demonstrations" on a portable little climbing wall with a crack or 2 in it, and all my climber buddies would laugh and laugh.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 26, 2009 - 01:00am PT
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hey there hobo_dan... say, thanks for the bump here... so i can learn a bit more supertopo stuff...
nice to see the post from you...
god bless... :)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 03:31am PT
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I climbed Dingus McGees favorite Free route on the Tower, 'Billy Bear Cranks the Rad' with Head Ranger emeritus Dick Guilmette.
OT, Hot Henry Digression;
I first successfully climbed the route Mainstreet, in Vedauwoo with Henry Barber when he onsight soloed it, dragging a 7 mil for my convenience. ( I'd had a number of epics on it before that) When I watched him climb it, I HAD to do it. My own success set me on the path of offwidth...
Last week, 32 yrs later I led that route and was followed by Dr Ed Hartouni, a native Bostonian, I think. I think Hot Hank is a native Bostonian as well, so maybe there is a weird sort of symmetry going here. I like to think so, any way.
Happy Lucille day, all.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
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Hey you guys-Where is Shawn Callahan now? I thought he was in Tuscon but I couldn't find him when i was there
El Matador is the only climb I ever hung on my fingers to rest my calves- got that idea from a Brit: Peter Best wasa his name maybe?
Hi Neebee Thanks for the card. Hope things are turning the corner
Lynne:
Todd Skinner was the guy who totally opened up North America. Before he came it was like a Bad Led Zeppelin guitar jam- all about image and being oh so cool! Skinner came and said it's time to climb-"get on board- I'm driving the bus!"
Todd Skinner does'nt get the credit he should and neither does Tony Yaniro-which will be my next post
murf
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homemade salsa
Trad climber
west tetons
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Aug 27, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
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Completely agreed, Murf. Didn't matter to Todd that summer (and subsequently) if you climbed 5.7 or 5.12- he was just so open and psyched for every single climber. And he remembered everyone's name for ever after, and just lit up when he saw you again.
That was an amazing summer for me- I went from shaky follower on 10a to leading those long Tower cracks without completely losing my cool- learned to stem, to rest while placing gear, and to eagerly take my turn on the sharp end.
And you might look for Shawn on the East side of the Sierra- that was at least 10 yrs ago I saw him there...
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Aug 27, 2009 - 11:47pm PT
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hobo_dan, did you climb with Mark or Mike Jacobs? Have we met?
Curt
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2009 - 11:20am PT
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Lynn those long Tower cracks are the real deal. I've never seen anything that even comes close as far as sustained and consistent difficulty. I still whimper when I think about Mr. Clean- and i parked on the rest ledge for about 2 years before getting on with it
My only real Arizona contact was a lady: Caryl S Williams-a really really good climber. We hung out in Tuolumne in the early eighties. I think she got married and I have no idea where she is now. She was friends with Kevin Fosberg.
Mark or Mike Jacobs?- I don't recall.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
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Hey JayBro
The belayer without a thumb story- I heard about a guy from Minnesota who was hiking and he placed his hand on a big block and it shifted- pinning and shearing his thumb- same guy/story? Don't remember the context or the alcohol content behind the story but I wonder if they're related
murf
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 31, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
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Could be. I don't know where the missing thumb from my story went missing.
I'm guessing the Colonel knows...
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dogtown
Gym climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Blow Me & Whine. you mean? No?
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Shawn is still in Tucson. Was as of a couple of years ago, anyway.
He said he wanted to go back to the Tower several times. I don't think he ever did. Not with me, anyway.
Hi Lynne!
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homemade salsa
Trad climber
west tetons
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Hmmm.... must be Scritchfield, if I think about it. Haven't seen your smiling face around here in many moons. Hope you are well!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 22, 2010 - 11:39pm PT
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I would love to hear greater detail on that solo. Great story. Has it been soloed since?
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
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bump it up
It's summertime and we're going racing in the streets
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Headed that direction tomorrow.
Cool bump of a historic thread!
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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One of my favorite routes at the Tower, more up my alley: lower angle and face climbing. First heard about it in the late 70s in the Valley from a young guy from Wyoming who was obsessed with doing the Zodiac. Once he did that, he was going to go do H&V. A fine route but I can't imagine soloing it. It would be great to hear that story.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Well, it would be best if 'Hot Henry' would come on here to tell us directly ( anyone in contact with him? Saw him @ OR) but I'll give it a shot. He told us this story in September '77 one night after his slideshow in Laramie, over Tuna Noodle casserole, a Bottle of Mouten Cadet, and some kind of Beer higher brow than than the PBR to which we were, then, accustomed.
They had just recently dropped some of the requirements for first time Tower climbers. At one time you had to be eighteen, wear a helmet, climb Durrance first, etc. It was as I say just past that time, but those regulations still resonated, especially with the personnel with whom one would sign out.
I don't recall if it was his very first day climbing there, but he was definitely new to the tower, and dude at the desk didn't know him.
So Barber signs outs for H & V and gets a lecture about how it's one of the then hardest routes at the tower and suggests that maybe he would like to warm up with something more modest, like maybe Tad,5.7 or if he was feeling Frisky, then maybe Soler,, 5.9?
This got HB's dander up and he looked dude in the eye and added "Solo" to the sign in. Nothing the worker bee could do!
So he gets up there, scrambles up to the crux and realizes he was in it big time. There is a thin move up there that while only 5.10, is completely un forgiving; Miss that one and you're going to slide down the column, bounce on the ledge, get catapulted into space and possibly cartwheel through a step section of boulders, only to be terminally splatted on the paved tourist trail 200' below.
I gotta believe that that, was going through his mind as backed on and off the move, in the slippery, summer heat. Thing gets full sun! I also imagine that he drew a crowd in the drop zone. Either cheering him on or hanging in a stunned golf silence. Either way. it had to fuk with his mojo.
So finally he popped.... the move, and continued on to the top.
At that point in the narrative, Pete Dorsa, asked how that solo compared to His onsight of Gorilla's Delight, in Boulder Canyon, a white knuckle tale recounted by him at great length in the book climb, an account so scary you have to chalk up just to read it!
"Oh man, it was way, way worse....."
Again maybe he'll come on here and comment.
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Frank Sanders
Trad climber
Devils Tower. Wyoming
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Scott Woodruff & Jeff Overton were the FFA's. May 26, 1974. Two days earlier they got FFA of Walt Bailey Memorial. BRILLIANCE !!!!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
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Wow! I doubt that there are two better days EVER, than to knock off Walt Bailey and then Hollywood and Vine.
Thanks for the Hot Henry story
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2016 - 07:17pm PT
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the Dredge report
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2019 - 06:09am PT
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more spring cleaning
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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May 22, 2019 - 10:13am PT
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Hollywood and Vine ... ah, yes. I lived one house off Vine Street back in 1939, just south of Sunset Blvd. Royal and I attended Vine Street Elementary School there. Me in 1939 in the second grade ... Royal was in kindergarten.
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john bald
climber
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May 22, 2019 - 12:10pm PT
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Nice to see Jeff Overton's name. Thanks Frank. Jeff was one of my partners back about then...and yes...H&V is a very nice climb
Gonna miss this ST group!
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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May 22, 2019 - 12:35pm PT
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In either '83 or '84, I helped Frank Sanders and partner hump loads up to Lurking Fear. To just walk to the base of an El Cap route with real wall climbers was quite the thrill. When Frank told the story of Hot Henry pausing at the crux of H and V for 45 minutes before pulling through, it somehow made the idea of becoming a real climber that much more appealing.
Lynn W. and Larry S. are also names from the past for me. . old friends from the Jackson days.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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May 22, 2019 - 06:10pm PT
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A great route that is so not what Devil's Tower climbing is all about. Another climb in the same vein is Casper College. Outstanding!
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