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Messages 1 - 175 of total 175 in this topic
WBraun

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 6, 2007 - 11:28pm PT
It's Time to cut loose .....

Some crappy photo of Death crack in some Tuolumne Meadows area.


Post up your cut loose shots ......

Edit; the guy belaying was called "The Food Man".

He could eat forever and ever and never got full.
Crimpergirl

Social climber
Hell on earth wondering what I did to deserve it
Jun 6, 2007 - 11:31pm PT
Yay Werner - more photos like that. I agree, the site has been suffering a bit lately. Hopefully it'll get back to its normal cool self soon.

Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Jun 6, 2007 - 11:31pm PT
That' a Rockin' shot Werner!!! I'm gonna start a diggin'!!!
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Jun 6, 2007 - 11:39pm PT
WTF is that rope tied to?
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 6, 2007 - 11:47pm PT
my bitchen new sh*t from Grivel
now I need a helmet
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 6, 2007 - 11:50pm PT
aluminum
for alpine ice and snow climbing
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jun 6, 2007 - 11:51pm PT
Ray,
They better be aluminum if you're going into the hills wearing those Crocs!
Good luck out there bro.
VLG
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 6, 2007 - 11:58pm PT
Crocs are bomber...
no problem
WBraun

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2007 - 12:03am PT
What's that yellow sh'it on the bottom?

To keep the snow from balling up under them?

I almost died this spring because of the snow balling up under the crampons. I took fast ride and slammed into a tree luckily.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:06am PT
the yellow sh*t, as you put it -laughing -
is indeed Grivel's patented antibott, w/ the rubber accordion for the center-bar, these babies are freakin' LIGHT
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:09am PT
beauty...
tis in the eye of the beholder
WBraun

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2007 - 12:10am PT
Yeah those were the ones I used except I didn't have the yellow anti bot.

Make sure they're tight or they'll fall right off!
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:16am PT
they seem pretty tight - good advice for sure - I'm way into getting things dialed and testing all the gear out before hand, especially these days.

there's a lot of really safe easy glaciers and gully's in the Indian Peaks/RMNP - any luck I can get some fitness and have fun going up - not as boring as just hiking, good exercise.

WBraun

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2007 - 12:20am PT
Hardman Knott

The rope is tied to the locker biner.

Hahahaha, you really thinks so?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:21am PT
Any relation to the "Bott Dots" that clack your teeth if you are drifting out of your lane in a car? Father of the transposable utility bump perhaps, even on a crampon?
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
e350
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:22am PT
Hey Ray

Get some action shots with the new sh?t
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:29am PT
yeah 510/511, I'm gonna practice a bit first, have not done self arrest or handled an axe in quite a while - there's a lot of moderate terrain out by Mt. Neva/Jasper in Indian Peaks. I'm old, tired and in the way so gotta go slow. It is really a great snow season in the Colorado Mountains...
WBraun

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2007 - 12:30am PT
Hahahaha LOL

Fuk if I know who took the shot Walter. I can't remember.

Maybe I need to eat more carrots?
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
e350
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:31am PT
Hope you have a great time Raydog
Crimpergirl

Social climber
Hell on earth wondering what I did to deserve it
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:35am PT
The Real Blinny is fixin' to take photos of some folks cutting loose!
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:37am PT
that is a great shot
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:38am PT
Yup, a little jughauling to cheer y'all up. From Shawangunk Rock Climbing Richard Dumais 1985.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:39am PT
snow pack last friday about 11,000ft
I tried to kick steps up closer but the snow was frozen solid
just above this wind @ about 20+ blowing pretty cold, hands - bye bye...

Ammon

Big Wall climber
El Cap
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:44am PT

Well, this isn't exactly cutting loose... but, here's a few for you that John Dickey took while on Native Son last year.

Cheers & Enjoy!







WBraun

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2007 - 12:47am PT
Yeah, I know what you mean Ray.

Yikes! Ammon & Steve that's the spirit.

Keep em coming folks .....

Edit: Ammon I hope your ankle is healing.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:58am PT
this picture accurately depicts my sad state of affairs
aged, over weight, fatigued from a 4am start but somehow still
smiling...
didn't need the snowshoes, everything was frozen

those are the gloves that didn't do sh*t - new Scarpa
boots went 9 miles out of the box and were perfect
feelio Babar

Trad climber
Sneaking up behind you...
Jun 7, 2007 - 01:02am PT

WBraun

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2007 - 01:15am PT
Is that you Mike? With broken bone? This year? Yikes!
Chico

Trad climber
Mt. Shasta, CA
Jun 7, 2007 - 01:15am PT
Tangerine Dream 5.9, Mt. Lassen

Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 7, 2007 - 01:19am PT
I've been to those crags by Lassen, Chico - what a neat place
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jun 7, 2007 - 01:28am PT
Bob D somewhere in Asia!!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 7, 2007 - 01:33am PT
Russ Clune's selection from Fifty Favorite Climbs Mark Kroese 2001. The caption reads "approaching the top of the spectacular Split Pillar (5.10b) on the Grand Wall". Big paws come in handy on this Squamish classic. Rich Wheater photo.
Majid_S

Mountain climber
Bay Area
Jun 7, 2007 - 01:37am PT
Werner

Why are you climbing and cross loading your biner on a lead line ?
This is dangerous, stop doing all these risky stuff.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jun 7, 2007 - 02:34am PT
Some cool seacliff craggin' earlier this week.

Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Jun 7, 2007 - 02:59am PT
not really cutting loose, but i think it's a cool shot

snyd

Sport climber
Lexington, KY
Jun 7, 2007 - 08:40am PT
Name that dirtbag:


and no, it's not Eminem
imnotclever

climber
Jun 7, 2007 - 08:52am PT
Am I the only one who sees gloves like Ammon's and thinks, "Hmm, 100 pitch gloves." ;)

(So for him that's, what, 2 days)
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jun 7, 2007 - 10:16am PT
City of Rocks, last october


snowpack last week at 5500 feet, pity you can't go to 11,000 in the Olympics.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Jun 7, 2007 - 10:20am PT
Matt - cool granite crack. What is it?

GO
bobmarley

Trad climber
auburn, california
Jun 7, 2007 - 10:30am PT
pancake flake on the 1 day ascent of the nose:

golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
Jun 7, 2007 - 10:51am PT
Nice everyone!

Not hanging out, but a little run out on Superpin...



and a little tired after a long day on the Salathe...


and a little guy...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Jun 7, 2007 - 11:07am PT
Cut Loose!?





I'll hopefully get some climbing shots rolling this afternoon....keep an eye out!


Cheers,

Tom


bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jun 7, 2007 - 11:32am PT
Cutting loose - from the wayback machine!
Bouldering pad care of Curry Co. - thanx btw.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 7, 2007 - 11:51am PT
More rippling old school power please!
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:18pm PT
More old skool bouldering....
"Last of the Mohicans", 5.12d, La Foradada, Spain. Bouldering pad out of frame...
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:36pm PT
I think JB's pics do in fact qualify as "cutting loose"

more than most of us will ever know

great shots John, thanks
James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:49pm PT
The Forklift on Toxic
Didier on Cobra Crack
Bang Bang. Maxwell Silver Hasson on the Cutting Edge
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jun 7, 2007 - 12:59pm PT
Ron Peers executing an L-Cross on the Olympic ring apparatus in TM rescue (circa '81).
He could do a perfect butterfly mount as well!

Chico

Trad climber
Mt. Shasta, CA
Jun 7, 2007 - 01:37pm PT
Here you go Raydog, another one of Tangerine Dream:




And a new route in Castle Crags:

marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jun 7, 2007 - 01:39pm PT
Ray,
For a real gram shaving/savings, try these Axis crampons from ULA in Logan, Utah:
Glaidig

Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
Jun 7, 2007 - 01:43pm PT
Sam leads the third pitch traverse on Blown Away last weekend

snyd

Sport climber
Lexington, KY
Jun 7, 2007 - 01:46pm PT
My home crag

James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Jun 7, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
Bachar,
you should bring a set of rings to Toulumne.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jun 7, 2007 - 10:16pm PT
James - wish I still had them. Even if I did, it takes a while to set the bar at the official Olympic height and the straps the right length. It was pretty cool though. Peers was a national ranked gymnast in college and he could do all kinds of stuff - in perfect form to boot!

The TM rescue site was fully equipped in those days. Then the rangers came...

Don Best on the rope ladder.

Don Welsh doing a thirty second fingertip front lever.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 7, 2007 - 10:26pm PT
thanks Chico - cool place

and

thanks marty(r) for:
" For a real gram shaving/savings, try these Axis crampons from ULA in Logan, Utah:"

those are neat, I could definitely see a use for them, especially in the local foothills when things glaze over -

what a fun crew here on the ST...

Crimpergirl

Social climber
Hell on earth wondering what I did to deserve it
Jun 7, 2007 - 10:27pm PT
Acccckkkk! I just strained some muscle looking at those photos.

It just hardly seems possible people are that strong. Thanks for the photos!
James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Jun 7, 2007 - 11:12pm PT
Could anyone bust an iron cross and front lever at the same time on the rings?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 7, 2007 - 11:28pm PT
Pat Ament was able to do a hollow back lever as a gymnast. You start out face down, arms and legs straight with hands about a foot away from your hips palms down. Now press into a lever and full handstand ninety degrees away! Just lay down and try that one at home. LOL
More air! Chris Sharma on Alien. His fav from Fifty Favorite Climbs, Mark Kroese 2001. Jim Thornburg photo.
Ammon

Big Wall climber
El Cap
Jun 7, 2007 - 11:44pm PT

Wow, this thread is cutting loose, niiice... these guys are too.



Edit: Way to rattle the cage, Werner ;)
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 7, 2007 - 11:48pm PT
awesome pics guys! holy cow
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Jun 8, 2007 - 12:30am PT
Great shots folks!
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Knob Central
Jun 8, 2007 - 12:31am PT
We are all weak. Once as a gymnast I was strong though. If only I were as disciplined as a climber as I was a gymnast....


If only I were an asian boy toy....
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Jun 8, 2007 - 12:41am PT
Ho man this is an inspirational thread. This restores one's faith in the taco.

Off White-- what an unreal city of rocks photo. Beautiful.

These photos are awesome!

Let the political/bs/other off topic threads go down the drain....the topo still rips...

I've got to start dieting!

love to posters of wonder...
Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Jun 8, 2007 - 12:49am PT
Arrrgh! Piana on Salathe


From Todd's website
Standing Strong

Trad climber
real eyes realize real life
Jun 8, 2007 - 12:56am PT
blinny - thank you for sharing that sweet poem. mr. sharsmith truly was the rare mountain sage. it was a privilege meeting him and going on some of his nature talks in the meadows. he taught us to use all of our senses to understand the layers of the natural world. when he told us kids we could taste the onions growing wild in the meadows, it opened up a whole new world of discovery. we just thought he was the last word.
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jun 8, 2007 - 08:09pm PT
When I was on the University of Colorado, in 1967, I learned for a short time the plange on the floor. Your body is stretched horizontal, about half a foot above the floor, held there by two straight arms extending in a diagonal down to the floor, with hands flat on the floor (somewhere near the upper thighs), fingers pointing out to the sides (away from body). This might be what Steve was calling a lever. I also learned a plange press into handstand. From the horizontal plange, you slowly raise your straight body into a handstand, without bending your arms at the elbow), but I only managed that a couple times. One spaghetti dinner was enough to make me too heavy to ever do it again. I worked out all the time with Big-8 champions, who could regularly do slow butterfly mounts on the rings, slow pulls into iron crosses, etc. Most were stronger than I was by a mile but couldn't climb as well. None of them could do my one-arm mantel on the two-inch wide ledge on a wall. One of the best gymnastics moves I ever did, and I never saw another person do it, though I'm sure others are capable, is the slow, pure muscle-up on the bar. I don't mean pulling up on the bar and going up and over. You have to go excruciatingly slow, with both arms going up and over (at that same excruciatingly slow speed) at exactly the same time. In other words you start with a slow-motion pullup, then pull the bar to your chest, crank a few inches higher, still keeping both hands and elbows exactly mirroring each other, then slowly press your body above the bar. I don't know how I ever learned that one. It was harder than a hollowback off the floor (which I could do solidly and slow, with no kick or quick first move to start). In the mornings I would get up and, before breakfast, do fifteen deep handstand pushups (i.e., get into a handstand -- away from the wall -- and press down, kissing the floor each time). Most of the time I would be happy to do five, but sometimes ten, without stopping, but once and maybe more than once I know I did fifteen. I wasn't as strong pulling as I was pushing, and the pulling strength is much more practical for climbing. Then in older age I hurt my shoulder just trying to put my hands on the floor and kick into a handstand... My daughter (who never saw the gymnastic stuff of yesteryear) was pretty unimpressed with me hurting myself trying to get into a handstand.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 9, 2007 - 12:17am PT
haha-
pretty fun thread for a lark everybody, good going; 'speshly the gymnast stuff Oli, and I like those old shots JB, Peers, Lighting etc.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 9, 2007 - 01:12am PT
One from the vault. The Shield back when it was a clean knife stroke. Seventh ascent Werner?
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jun 9, 2007 - 01:17am PT
Bachar shots are a glimpse of history...Pat writings are the same. Thanks to all that post here.


Later, Bob
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 9, 2007 - 01:21am PT
FYI guys I am working at getting Steve Sutton's cell phone number.

I have it he is here in Colorado - he became a pilot and flies for a living these days.
WBraun

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2007 - 10:36am PT
Steve

Me and Dale Bard did the 5th ascent of the Shield. Sutton and Pratt probably sometime before us.

Yeah we placed a lot of rurps and blades up there back then.

A few years later I did it again with Merry and there were huge square pin holes. One place where I originally place a rurp the pin hole was so big that a 1 1/2 pition went in there. LOL

Still one of the most awesome locations on El Cap.


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 9, 2007 - 12:31pm PT
I would like to get up on the Shield again to do it hammerless once and for all. Solid belay anchors and nothing to hit for miles. No excuse for not trying even if the stopwatch is ticking.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 9, 2007 - 02:24pm PT
More cutting loose from the 1978 GPIW catalog.
Somewhere in Baja. Dudley Chelton photo.
An unusual view of Separate Reality from below. Vern Clevenger photo.

Ron Kauk on Sky . Where is this route Werner, since you took the picture?

A shot from the days of beige. Pile made its appearence in 1977 and caught on like wildfire despite the earthtones.
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jun 9, 2007 - 02:26pm PT
I used to think a lot of things that would seem strange to most today, such as if you had to wear gloves you were a sloppy climber. I mean none of the original hard men used gloves. You had to toughen your hands rather than protect them. You had to hammer carefully rather than whack a piton and take off a flap of skin. And if you had to tape your hands for cracks you didn't know how to hand jam (I went to Veedauvoo and climbed some really painful flesh cutting crystal handjams, just to see if I was right. That might have been around the time I got to thinking it was about time to retire). I used to think that helmets made you top heavy and were only of value in the mountains where there was a lot of rockfall. I used to think a simple swami around the waits was adequate for almost any climb, or even no more than a single loop of the climbing rope. Kamps and I did lots of climbs with no harness or swami, just a loop of the climbing rope. And I thought at least no one would ever use a harness on any sort of knee-size-or-beyond crack climb, as it would hinder movement and get caught inside, etc. Pratt and I did the Steck-Salathe in about 5 hours (maybe slightly less), in 1968, not even trying to go fast, just casually moving along, with a single strand of rope around each of our waist. Chuck bought about seven pieces of gear for protection. We had no lunch or water. There was a sense of freedom, without much gear. I remember leading the first pitch unprotected. He led the Wilson Overhang unprotected. We clipped one fixed pin on the crux third pitch. I recall we had a few pitons with us (we hadn't fully transitioned yet to nuts). I tried to place a bugaboo while starting to lead the slab pitch above the headwall, and my first hit with the hammer sent the piton flying down the wall. I went on without protection there, since I didn't want to lose another of Chuck's valuable pitons. He simply smiled at me. This is not an interesting story, but Pratt was so beautiful on rock, so smooth and elegant. I'll never forget looking up the last pitch and seeing him sitting there, pulling in the rope, watching me. Sun was overhead bright, no clouds, but rain was falling in a crystalling way, sparkling around him as though he finally had earned his celestial glory.

Tell me Werner, if anything is helping this site be less boring. Should I keep trying?
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 9, 2007 - 02:37pm PT
This thread has some great stories. Maybe the title could do with a bit of work, though.

Yes, 1976 and the appearance of Helly Hansen pile sweaters and jackets. Designed for Icelandic fishermen or something, all of whom apparently had pot bellies.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 9, 2007 - 02:41pm PT
thanks for the nice prose Oli - I like reading your perceptions about the period and the people very much.
golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
Jun 9, 2007 - 02:41pm PT
oli,
Nice stories about way back when. Your story of the steck-salathe describes to me what i strived for in climbing way back then.

thanks,
G
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 9, 2007 - 03:08pm PT
The caption reads "Chuck Pratt typically leading a crack in Yosemite without protection." In this case the 3D second pitch. From A History of Free Climbing in America by Pat Ament 2002. Ament photo.
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jun 9, 2007 - 07:48pm PT
I just wrote a big post and it got deleted somehow. It will probably show up in some other thread, the Paris Hilton thread. Just thinking about being involved with her, without being aware of what I was doing I started wrapping myself in sandwich wrap from head to toe.

Anyway, yes Chuck Pratt was da man. That day, from that photo, he made me lead the crux 5.10 offwidth above. A lot of people lately, I see, do the first two pitches and say they've done Reed's Direct. I always thought the first two pitches were the warm up for the third pitch.

Right about where Chuck is in that photo, he stopped for a second, bonked a red ant, watched it fall, and said, "You shouldn't be allowed to climb that well."
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 9, 2007 - 08:44pm PT
Yessiree, the third pitch is the meat of the Triple Direct. Nothing but some slim prayer of an RP in a crease when I lead it and solid 5.10. Full value.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jun 9, 2007 - 08:57pm PT
well, hey, the modern world has plenty of appropriate adventure to offer too!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 9, 2007 - 09:22pm PT
Man does that ever look dangerous! No way you'd get me to accept that level of risk for mere aesthetics. LOL
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jun 9, 2007 - 09:37pm PT
Where am dat shid, off? too funny.

I went through a period of soloing at V-woo in shoes, running shorts, no shirt or tape, but much chalk; Horns' mother, auto supply, the climb y punishment trio, bg crack, etc. concluded that it was lame and inappropriate. use what you need, state it, and don't worry if it's okay.
WBraun

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2007 - 09:55pm PT
Off White

WTF is that guy doing? Hahahahaha LOL
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 9, 2007 - 10:07pm PT
HE is workin' it hard. How about that shot of Ron on Sky, Werner?
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jun 9, 2007 - 10:19pm PT
The rack of brake bars makes it clear that he is a professional.


you know, for kids.



It's this place in New Zealand: http://www.peak-adventures.co.nz/index.html

I for one am just agog at the audacious vision of these folks.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Jun 9, 2007 - 10:44pm PT
Sky has been on my hit list for decades.... lost some interest after I found out that you can't or shouldn't OW it, but lay it away like Ronbo..... I'd like to maybe go up there sometime and do the Yabo route Elephatiasis (sp?) as a two-fer..... probably have to dog the shiit out of both of them.

Did someone ask where it was??? On Elephant rock, up near the top on the left side (?)
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jun 9, 2007 - 11:20pm PT
Come on, you guys, we're trying to make things less boring for Werner.
John Moosie

climber
Jun 9, 2007 - 11:36pm PT
Jeebus Oli, some of us are just mortals. haha... If we bleed too much, then we die.

And yes, keep up with the stories. They are great.

Perhaps if you use the back button on your computer you can find what you wrote and repost it.

Edit: I just realized that you wrote that about losing the post earlier today so using the back button might not work.
WBraun

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2007 - 11:39pm PT
Oh Pat

I ain't bored. I just went out to check on the Yosemite Falls. It's still falling straight down. Nothing changes ....

Now with all these theories nowadays you'd think it would go up instead? Like maybe on Tuesdays (when no ones lookin)?

Steve, Sky is on top of Elephant Rock. Far left side on the main face.

So Ray Jardine told me where. He didn't want to do it. His "Friends" (cams) back then didn't have the range for wide cracks.

I went there with Dale Bard to do the first ascent and sh'it in my pants when I saw it up close. Dale takes the lead and goes for it and takes a big whipper back to the belay. LOL

We then told Kauk that he's the man for this beast and he tamed it by lay backing it.

I think there were about 5 or 6 of us there that day.
john hansen

climber
Jun 9, 2007 - 11:49pm PT
Oli , your stories are great, please keep posting more.Any one of your stories is worth a hundred other's from all those non climbing post's.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 10, 2007 - 12:42pm PT
"Let's throw a little meat at the crack," as Scott Baxter used to say. Thanks Werner.
More space cheese please.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 10, 2007 - 12:46pm PT
absolutely wild pic
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jun 10, 2007 - 07:07pm PT
Charlie Fowler and I did some sea-cliff soloing in the rain in our big warm coats and hats, while in Wales, where if you fell you'd drop into the ocean. I don't know what I was thinking. That was my chance, and I didn't take it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 12, 2007 - 01:28am PT
A few more seacliff shots from Sea Cliff Climbing in Britain by John Cleare and Robin Collomb 1973. Joe Brown on the Spider's Web Craig Gogarth.
Frank Cannings and Pat Littlejohn opening up Liberator on the Great Zawn at Bosigran in 1970.
Knave

climber
Ca
Jun 12, 2007 - 02:34am PT
http://lh4.google.com/image/timofthehill/Rm48_T-sjTI/AAAAAAAAAFc/sosU6dcK9os/mokelumne%2006394.jpg?imgmax=144
Hmmm 1st try at photo upload, need some practice evidently.
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jun 12, 2007 - 03:30am PT
Thank you, Steve, for those photo reminders of the good days. Some part of me, being half Irish and half English on my mother's side, always makes me feel I should have been there, that I missed something vital, that I belonged with Whillans and Brown and was born in the wrong place. When I went to England I never felt so at home, so in harmony with people and with the universe. I loved the gritstone and the wet rock of Wales. When I led the Left Wall of Cenotaph Corner, in rain, Charlie Fowler said I'd done a 5.12 lead. I actually didn't think at the time I was capable of 5.12, as I was years over the hill, but I attribute that burst of energy to the joy of being in some kind of spiritual home I had lost but now found. I felt so close to Jim Perrin, and when we stayed at his ghostly house in Wales I felt in a good way haunted by the spirits of that mysterious land... To visit and climb even briefly on those sea cliffs did something to my soul...

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 17, 2007 - 04:16pm PT
A few more seaside shots from the same source.
Joe Brown leading with Peter Crew on stance during the first ascent of the much sought after Rat Race on Gogarth's Main Wall.
The Flying Buttress, an easy classic on the West coast of the island of Lundy.
"The originator of stack climbing in the North of Scotland, Tom Patey, seen after climbing Am Buachaille- in the background."
"Tom Patey leading the final pitch on Am Buachaille, with Ian Clough below."

Post up some seaside shots folks from Mickey's Beach to Baja, the J Paul Pebble to the Malamute we got seacliffs.......
wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jul 6, 2007 - 01:23pm PT
MAJOR LEAGUE FRIGGIN' BUMP!!!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 6, 2007 - 01:34pm PT
Right on. I'll try to scan some earlier Cleare photos and post them on the Snowdonia thread tonight.

But that reminds me, this place needs a seacliff-climbing thread all its own.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jul 6, 2007 - 01:48pm PT

There you go, Knave. You have to put img at the beginning and end of the link with brackets around 'em. Look at the shortcut of the one I posted for ya.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Dec 11, 2007 - 03:18pm PT
Some good stuff in this thread.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Dec 11, 2007 - 03:28pm PT
Funny Tom, did you bump this because of the other sh#t going on right now that's "gayer tha AIDS"...too funny.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Dec 11, 2007 - 03:30pm PT
I sure did.

better to bump quality content than add to the muck...

wish I was out climbing...

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Dec 11, 2007 - 05:15pm PT
wish I was out climbing...

Amen to that!

Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Dec 11, 2007 - 05:56pm PT
I just re-read this whole thread from start to finish...

Well worth it!
scuffy b

climber
The deck above the 5
Dec 11, 2007 - 06:32pm PT
I just did as well. Well worth it indeed.

I was hanging out in the Valley one time (yes, it did actually
happen once in a while) when Dale reappeared after some absence.
How long, or where, no idea, but it seemed to be an event.
He acted like he'd been gone for ages, really needed to get back
in touch with his (recent) past. Among other things ("Let's go do
a Cookie day. We'll just do as many pitches as we possibly can do
in one day at the Cookie.") he started talking about Sky.
"I gotta go back and do that thing. As an offwidth. It's the only
offwidth that ever spit me out. It just spit me out.
I know it's obviously a lieback, but I want to do it offwidth."
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Apr 30, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
you are responsible for the quality of content

please help clean out the choss
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Apr 30, 2009 - 01:54pm PT
Man, I'm easily trolled into those climate threads. Need a 12-step program. Need to go climbing
more too.

Hey, we've got a new puppy, I could post about that. I've never counted the pet, travel, photog
or lots of other climber-lifestyle stuff as being among the choss -- though I know, YMMV.

"Heaven is a place where all the dogs you ever had run up to you wagging their tails," a
friend said.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Apr 30, 2009 - 02:16pm PT
don't worry Chiloe, you're a quality poster...as are most

Just throwing out a reminder while digging up a buried thread...good stuff in this thread, even if some of the links have rotted away...

what happened to RAYDOG btw?

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Apr 30, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
The Boulder crowd prolly knows.

Meanwhile, a lot of the Cali quality posters, plus outliers from everywhere else, had converged
on JTree for the weekend. Now they're dispersed again and free to start many threads.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Apr 30, 2009 - 02:32pm PT
True, the JT stuff lately has been really good. Awesome to see such support for Roy too!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Apr 30, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
I like Choss, just not their choss.

;)
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Apr 30, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
ok munge, we're gonna need another installment of the 'good choss'!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Apr 30, 2009 - 03:01pm PT
Ha, thanks for the Pirate (beta) tip!
scooter

climber
fist clamp
Apr 30, 2009 - 03:02pm PT
""

Josh T. on the Fly or Die pitch Lost in America.

""

""

Jake W. on new terrain at the Rowell Rocks

""

Pat W. on the Great Pumpkin
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Apr 30, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
That pirate stuff is pretty funny, and those are good threads. Hell, the brother even added fresh pictures to his roadtrip thread, and it's gotten a whole 2 responses(one from me)...that's validating...

It's really just the 'other stuff' that's started (lately) knocking 'the good stuff' off the FP, if you respond to that sh!t, you just add to it. So I'd rather bump an 'oldie but a goodie'





EDIT: NOW WE"RE TALKING SCOOTER!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 30, 2009 - 03:06pm PT
Great photos guys! the crowd shouts MORE MORE MORE!!!!!
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Apr 30, 2009 - 03:20pm PT


Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 30, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
TILT! (posted a few pages back).
Not that I don't usually feel a little tilted by the time I get to the top of this pitch....

Another on the theme of cutting loose, and a bit tilted. (The Cobra)
[If you can call aiding through the crux cutting loose...]
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
Apr 30, 2009 - 07:08pm PT
YIKES!!!
nutjob

climber
Berkeley, CA
Apr 30, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
One long shlong:

Natural solution-pocket or favorite Indian hang-out way back when?
Mimi

climber
Apr 30, 2009 - 09:02pm PT
Caylor, I'd rather see a pic of you climbing, not your last bad date. LOL!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 30, 2009 - 09:24pm PT
Kerching, Mimi!!!!!















'specially since he's got a cutie of a wife!!!!!
Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
Apr 30, 2009 - 11:32pm PT
Sorry to be a buzzkill boys, but in response to the original post, "This site is boring as sh'it right now", I would like to suggest that it is such cuz ST is a "closed shop". As an "outside" lurker for many years, I would say it is a very impressive and entertaining closed shop, but a closed shop nonetheless. The number of "regular" posters on ST who actively engage "non regular" posters in a positve manner is limited. Some would say that aside from the crazy political posters who are for the most part tolerated, too much of what occurs on ST could be classified as "stroking each others ego". God forbid that ST becomes the equivalent of Rockclimbing.com, i.e. RCNoob, but with this attitude comes a limit on divergent opinions, variety, and, in the end, BOREDOM!
For the record, I am not a member of RC.com, have never posted there, and have no interest in doing so. Just an observation.


Cracko
Mimi

climber
Apr 30, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
It is a hostile environment but a 'real' one. Kinda like climbing.
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
X
Apr 30, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
.....
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Apr 30, 2009 - 11:42pm PT
Tiny pic bump.
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
X
Apr 30, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
it's cold out...
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
May 1, 2009 - 12:08am PT
Shrinkage, maybe?
hmmmmmmmmm.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 1, 2009 - 12:43am PT
hey there curt~, say, those are nice climbing shots... great rock... that first shot, too, that werner used to start all this off with, was a nice shot too....

i dont have time now, to watch the pics unfold, so i can't share much else...

thanks for the share, guys...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 1, 2009 - 12:45am PT
hey there, say... WOW... skully, nice to see/hear you... are you back, or just visiting... :)

i feel like i am just visiting, as i have been busy trying to edit last bits of my books, and do the new one...

god bless, to you!
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
May 1, 2009 - 12:46am PT
Hiya.... ;-)
GDavis

Trad climber
May 1, 2009 - 01:05am PT
Hank did you rip that off my facebook page? You know I don't want that circulating. What if my husband found out?


dogtown

climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
May 1, 2009 - 01:10am PT
I met Dale Bard in the early 80’s in round valley everyone at the time was very living poor. I have yet to meet a climber or for that matter a man more fit than Dale.

Bruce.

scuffy b

climber
Bad Brothers' Bait and Switch Shop
May 1, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
Much as I wish I could, Cracko, I can't argue against your
points.
I guess we could all be more welcoming.
Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
May 1, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
OK, OK.... I withdraw my concern. I was a little "pissy" at work this week with the Swine Flu hysteria, and felling sorry for myself. Carry on !!


Cracko
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
May 1, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
too much of what occurs on ST could be classified as "stroking each others ego"

Cracko, there may be some truth to that, but it is still a great forum.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
May 1, 2009 - 09:44pm PT
Actually, DMT, I think all humans are tribal, whether they know it or admit ot (or Knott).
It's built in, eh?
Standard(no extra charge).
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
May 1, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
'Cause when I get that feelin',
I need sensimal heemin'.
Wookin po nub.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
May 1, 2009 - 10:27pm PT
Aren't we all.........
MH2

climber
May 1, 2009 - 11:42pm PT
Crappy picture?

Yes.


Cutting loose?

Not sure what he meant.


Werner in my head saying, "Get ON it."?

Ain't the Taco great?






And to bring in the Malemute :

MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
May 1, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
Boredom is a state of mind, not a state of being - change your mind.
MaxJ

Trad climber
Davis, CA
May 2, 2009 - 01:48pm PT

The Pratt/Robinson on North Six Shooter
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
May 7, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
*BUMP*
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Vulva, Wyoming
May 7, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24wAS-ZPcJQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe4llzO4zFw
MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
May 7, 2009 - 04:59pm PT
That second video is GOLD!!111

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KcEPtMOSmc
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
May 7, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
for Russ and other fans of SLAP CHOP

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWRyj5cHIQA
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Vulva, Wyoming
May 7, 2009 - 05:08pm PT

"you're gonna love my nuts"


That dude is GOLD!!!!1111666
scuffy b

climber
Bad Brothers' Bait and Switch Shop
May 7, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mykCBssAP6I[/url]
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
May 7, 2009 - 06:46pm PT

testing 1 2 3
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
May 7, 2009 - 07:25pm PT
Dog," Can you help get this dude off my feet?"...........
perswig

climber
May 7, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
"Drop the chalupa."
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
May 7, 2009 - 10:15pm PT
Oh god, # 2 is FISHSOME!!!!!111111
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
May 7, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
Nice cover, Russ!

Do you do Rumanian atheist?
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
May 7, 2009 - 11:08pm PT
We need some music up in here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TAPqNmzmTfA
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
May 8, 2009 - 12:45am PT
The Taco's own HK and The Snyd


The Snyd on a V5 at Bliss South Tahoe, HK sloughin'


Doped up not roped up outside of Reno '83/'84 The Seams-510.a


UNR Crack? 5.8


Juniors 5.8

Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
May 8, 2009 - 12:58am PT
RIP Cave Rock!!!!!!!!!!!1111
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Jun 9, 2009 - 07:54pm PT
"Boring? I'll change that."


nature

climber
Tucson, AZ
Jun 9, 2009 - 07:55pm PT
a snakeskin thong can go a long way to curing "boring".
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 19, 2014 - 11:16am PT
Bump for the communists
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jul 19, 2014 - 12:26pm PT
So, Rev, does a bear sh!t in the woods?Bored...
...as sh!t.

Ask the Pope, dammit, I'm sleepin'!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jul 19, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
I love you, Locker!

+10 for that keen observation, butty!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Jul 19, 2014 - 01:30pm PT
Mouse wishes he could get those lungs to function more than ten feet off the ground!!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 19, 2014 - 01:36pm PT
"Boring is as boring does" - Forrest Rump
MH2

climber
Jul 19, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
communists?
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Jul 19, 2014 - 01:50pm PT
I apologize.
Q- Ball

Mountain climber
where the wind always blows
Jul 19, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
If you are bored Check out the Platano trip. (I will be happy to take you down, as long as you can smile?)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 19, 2014 - 02:29pm PT
Not bored locker. I'm just a climber bumping some climbing threads. Then going to work.


Sorry.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 19, 2014 - 03:14pm PT
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jul 19, 2014 - 03:24pm PT
sharperblue

Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
Jul 19, 2014 - 03:25pm PT
so boring around here this summer...nothing to do at all..
go-B

climber
Cling to what is good!
Jul 19, 2014 - 03:55pm PT
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jul 19, 2014 - 08:55pm PT
MisterE

climber
Jul 19, 2014 - 09:10pm PT
Constant entertainment is a high road to ask from a bunch of dirtbag climbers...

just sayin'
Messages 1 - 175 of total 175 in this topic
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