An Honest to GOD Rock Climbing Trip Report. (No kidding...)

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Messages 1 - 29 of total 29 in this topic
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 31, 2007 - 09:17pm PT
Had an unforseen opportunity yesterday afternoon to head up to Yosemite. Got there about dark, so sat in El Cap Meadow and watched the moonlight inch its way down the wall. Beautiful. Ended up in the high country for a bivy and got up early this morning. Grabbed the light gear and started hiking to a familiar climb you all know.

Cathedral Peak, of course. SW Butt, 5.6ish

"racking up"

This would be the classic 5.4 fingers first pitch. (it's not steep at all)

Quick slam-bam 180 pano, shot at the base of the Chimney, 2/3rds up.


Alas! The Chimney. You can see it as a tiny vertical black line in the second photo, above.

Eichorn Pinnacle, from the summit.

N. to Fairview Dome, the Meadows, etc.

Two hours from the car, 7:45am. :)


What's this??!! Free Beer???!!

Damn straight, I drank that beer at 9:30 in the morning. It was good too!

Ok, Ok, I put it there. And there's one more, ice cold, under this log. Go get it!
David Nelson

climber
San Francisco
May 31, 2007 - 09:38pm PT
Very nice pix, but we expect no less from you. How about some trip details?
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2007 - 10:05pm PT
Mmmm. I think I'll have another one of those.

Added captions, David. And Seriously, there's a beer under that log. Or at least there was this morning. Hopefully somebody saw my sign and indulged. :-)

EDit:
Oh yeah, I got screamed at by a ranger on the drive home when I stopped to take a picture of a bear, along with 200 tourists. I apparently got too close and could have scared it off, thus depriving the tourists of a park exerience, and unnecessarily agitating the wildlife. I'm sure the screaming ranger made the bear feel more at ease. Incidently, he could have arrested me and slapped me a $285.00 fine, or so he said. I kindly apologized and took my place with the others, which seemed like a comedic twilight zone.
Jude Bischoff

Ice climber
Palm Springs
May 31, 2007 - 10:20pm PT
I laughed when I saw the picture of the chimney. I climbed Cathedral Peak on my second day as a climber many years ago. I got to that chimney and had a hell of a time finding anyplace to put my feet or hands.

Several years later I climbed the same route with my daughter and realized the chimney that had confounded me earlier was a piece of cake. Thanks for the memories and the beer commercial. Big love in the Sierra Nevada!
Crimpergirl

Social climber
Hell on earth wondering what I did to deserve it
May 31, 2007 - 10:28pm PT
Whoa, I'm so out of practice reading a climbing thread here that I just don't know what to say. ;)

Thanks for this. It was much needed and enjoyed. And thanks much for the great photos!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
May 31, 2007 - 10:58pm PT
Thanks tons Jerry, special vignette!

PH
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Jun 1, 2007 - 12:12am PT
Nice start, dude!
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 1, 2007 - 12:22am PT
nice Jerry - thanks

I simul-soloed it w/ Tucker Tech in like 88 - really fun climb
davidji

Social climber
CA
Jun 1, 2007 - 12:38am PT
Always love to see your photos Jerry. Thanks!
climbrunride

Trad climber
Durango, CO
Jun 1, 2007 - 12:43am PT
Great pics, as always, Jerry! Is that one looking out of the chimney? Cool.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2007 - 01:02am PT
Yeah, it's looking out. I nearly dropped the camera trying to squeeze it out of the case. Liked the viewpoint.

Such a great super classic climb! Gotta take my wife up it, though it has a history of being bad for relationships.

Anyone know if those holes in top are from lightning strikes?

Enjoy!
Fletcher

Trad climber
Varied locales along the time and space continuum
Jun 1, 2007 - 01:14am PT
A trip report, beautiful photos, a funny story twist at the end... who could ask for more? Thanks!

Fletch
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2007 - 01:20am PT
You're welcome, but try as I could there was no twist at the end. Nearly put a hole in my T-shirt trying, but the lid said "Pry Off."
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Jun 1, 2007 - 01:40am PT
Hey Jer, Really stunning photos! The spontaneity of this trip is totally inspiring! Been up Cathedral repeatedly, viewed all kinds of photos, but THESE photos are in a class by themselves, once again!
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jun 1, 2007 - 02:05am PT
Thanks Jerry,
It's beautiful up there.
Zander
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 1, 2007 - 02:08pm PT
Good stuff Jerry.
A TR with no ropes or gear anywhere in sight!
'Does just what it is supposed to: make me pine for the wild & the free.
Evdawg

Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
Jun 1, 2007 - 02:43pm PT
wow. i've read up on that climb

looks amazing! good job on the photos (esp. the pano)
keep up the fun (and the pics!)

I ought to do that one sometime i'm not buisy
pc

climber
East of Seattle
Jun 1, 2007 - 03:03pm PT
That's what I'm talking about...
Thanks Jerry.
pc
jerr

climber
Jun 1, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
My names Jerry to and im supposed to be in cali rt. now climbing exactly what you just climbed.
We opted to stay home and make $$$ and alot of that we are making by our standerds but dang it....
Glad you had a good one for us.
Jerr
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jun 1, 2007 - 03:40pm PT
Sweet! I've never done Cathedral because there's so many other routes in Tuolumne to do when I go but....one of these days.

Awesome TR. You take some awesome self-portraits too, Jerry.
L

climber
A small kayak on a very big ocean
Jun 1, 2007 - 03:50pm PT
Excellent and entertaining TR, Jerry! And those Newtons are the bomb, aren't they? Never found anything like 'em.

I've been up Cathedral once--4 or 5 years ago--and your amazing photos brought back the beauty and exhileration of that experience. And the unquenchable urge to get back up there!

Thank you so much for bringing the mountains into this dreary office...
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2007 - 04:28pm PT
It really is an amazingly inspirational peak. Get out there and climb it. And if you've already done it, do it again, and again, and again.

Here's the rest of the story...
The climb came about by serendipity. I wasn't even planning to go to Yosemite. But on Wednesday morning Arienne's grandmother didn't wake up. She passed peacefully in her sleep. What a blessing to go like that! So without warning I found myself at Oakland Airport at 4:30pm dropping my wife off to go spend time with her family. I didn't have to be anywhere on Thursday. Traffic was a mess everywhere. I looked in the back of the car and saw that I had in fact not cleaned out the camping gear from last week, and my shoes/chalk bag were sitting there. So I headed East hoping to photograph the full moon in the Valley. Clouds looked good for a sunset, but I was too late.

While hiking to the climb. I thought about our grandmothers. Mine passed in March. They went to the same church. Like Muir, I've always preferred the Cathedral.

The stone felt like an old friend, the wind my ever present partner. I prayed during the climb. "Oh Great Knobs of Tuolumne, please don't fail, I trust in thee..." etc. Amazing how nature can reset you at the core. It was a very brief but immensly rewarding trip. Odd to take pictures of yourself climbing. But the camera makes a good companion, and its fun to record and share the memories.


(L- yeah, Newtons are great!)
spyork

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Jun 1, 2007 - 04:32pm PT
Thanks for sharing the photos (great as usual) Jerry.

Steve
jerr

climber
Jun 1, 2007 - 04:46pm PT
Awesome pics and story thanx for sharing
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Jun 1, 2007 - 05:29pm PT
I'll have to give that one a try, it looks great!

Thanks Jerry!
L

climber
A small kayak on a very big ocean
Jun 1, 2007 - 08:20pm PT
"Oh Great Knobs of Tuolumne, please don't fail, I trust in thee..."


That is so funny, Jerry! And so true about returning you to the core of who you are...who we all are in the end.

Thank you again for sharing the mountains, the cold beer, and the warm story.
10b4me

Trad climber
Hell A
Jun 2, 2007 - 12:46am PT
one of the great climbs anywhere. climbed it eleven years ago. need to do it again.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jun 2, 2007 - 01:15am PT
Good one Jerry...great photos!
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Jun 2, 2007 - 02:18am PT
What a great trip report and such beautiful pictures. It does make me want to go back to that one--I've managed a handful of trips up that route and it is a special one. I sometimes prefer the face bit to the left of the chimney. One time my wife and I finished the route near dark and found that the descent was scarily iced up. We had to rap in fading light and were quite relieved to get to easier ground...some choice bivying up that way...can't wait for my August vacation...Thanks Jerry!!!
Messages 1 - 29 of total 29 in this topic
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