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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 20, 2007 - 06:13pm PT
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thought these pics might go well with Steve's thread -
these crampons look a lot like the ones in that '68 catalog
related cool stuff
remember the Climaxe? (spell?)
a nice assortment of vintage hardware from the wooden shaft era
note axe far right belonged to Tobin
next time you're hiking in the mountains and it really sucks remember it could be worse,
you could have these on your feet
period Forrest tools
the blue period
I'll post more pics from Gary's shop down the road a bit...
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2007 - 06:44pm PT
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almost forgot this one
remember - "Rugged Rags from the Iron Mongers"?
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DonC
climber
CA
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May 20, 2007 - 06:55pm PT
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I just retired my Super Guides a few years ago. Heavy, but great boots! And those are the crampons I wore with them.
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Calif.
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May 20, 2007 - 07:08pm PT
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I still use my Super Guides once in a while on Baldy in winter ect. Bought them in '73 at Sport Chalet. Used them in the Sierra and on the Mexican Volcanos as well. Great boot. A bit heavy, but...
Thanks for the memory jog photos.
Tony
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 20, 2007 - 07:15pm PT
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Nice display items at Gary's store! The advantage of running a shop and being an active user too. Thanks for posting up Ray. That is the entire selection of Chouinard ice tools through the classic production period. Very cool. I wonder who pinched the bong from the display???
Edit: I think there is even an ash handled Piolet, pre-laminated Bamboo. A real rarity!
Those are definitely the Choiunard crampons by the cupped front points.
I miss my old Superguides too. Ripped a big chunk of midsole and welt out while, you guessed it, TALUS RUNNING!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2007 - 08:47pm PT
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Steve, you have a sharp eye.
it had been a while since I walked around Neptune's looking mainly at the museum - there are indeed some relics.
Really fun to share w/ folks who appreciate it.
Ray
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dfinnecy
Social climber
san joser
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May 20, 2007 - 09:01pm PT
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Are those two things on the top right of the Chouinard board hooks?
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2007 - 09:03pm PT
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those are indeed early Chouinard hooks -
Steve and others would certainly know more about their evolution than I...
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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May 20, 2007 - 09:10pm PT
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I see a parabiner (sp?) above the Galibiers. Still got one of those, except it has a big groove in it--I remember buying it to belay with the Munter,
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 20, 2007 - 09:51pm PT
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The hook on the left is the original Cliffhanger. The hook on the right is a Bathook, a modified Cliffhanger designed to be set with a tap into a shallow 1/4" hole. Warren Harding devised this modification to allow secure purchase even on overhanging terrain. Along with idiosyncratic variation in each person's Bathooks, the flaring associated with setting the tapered hook tip by force lead to immediate placement deterioration. The use of force is the reason that the Bathook is less curved and shorter in span.
As a hook, the original Cliffhanger was an unstable, flake shearing little devil but I have always used one as a waist hook because it can slip behind anything.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2007 - 10:00pm PT
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Steve, do you know why some of Ed Leepers hooks are called
"Logan" hooks?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 20, 2007 - 10:06pm PT
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Because Jim Logan invented them Ray. Finest hooks ever devised for real unadulterated microflake hooking!
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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May 21, 2007 - 01:25am PT
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We need to hear from "modest"Jim Logan..
Jim, give it up!
Jim's got some interesting stories from his and Mug's first ascent on the Emperor Face on Robson when Jim had to aid one pitch. Claims that it might have been his most intimidating pitch ever! Wonder if he had to use any hooks?
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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May 21, 2007 - 10:31am PT
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Here are some pictures of my meager collection of Chouinard tools and some selected hardware.
Early Yo hammer in a Dolt Holster w/ Chouinard Alcola Biner.
Late Crag Hammer that was hardly used.
Misc Ironmongery, Wide Logan Hook, Original Cliff Hanger, early die forged Lost Arrow
RURP, Crack N Ups, Aluminum Bong.
Ash Handled Piolet, Climb Axe, and Alpine Hammer with Chouinard Alcola biners.
If one looks carefully the signatures of Chouinard and Frost can be seen on the Yo and Alpine Hammers respectively.
I had a bunch of clean gear but it is now down at BD as part of their display.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 21, 2007 - 11:31am PT
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Nice gear stash SS!
I would love to hear from Jim about the evolution of his superb hook design. Wasn't he in on the first true Winter ascent of the NW face of Half dome in a rare display of Grand Alpinism stateside?
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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May 21, 2007 - 11:37am PT
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Raydog...nice photos. The 70cm piolet Chouinard-Frost in the photo is actually mine. I gave it to Gary way back in about 1987 or so. Actually, it wasn't really mine....I was working at Bell Laboratories in Denver at the time and my boss made her husband give up climbing because all his friends were dying so I got all his equipment.
Bruce
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 21, 2007 - 12:12pm PT
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Bruce- were you around Bell long enough to have been involved in the ancient Bell Toptex Malibu climbing/surfing helmet? It was the first brainbucket if memory serves.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 21, 2007 - 08:24pm PT
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A trip down memory lane. Thank you!
I had a Bell Toptex helmet in the early 1970s, bought at REI in Seattle. (Actually, that's redundant - in those days, the only REI was in Seattle.) I believe the Joe Brown was the first helmet actually made for climbing, a little earlier, but it wasn't available in North America then. The MSR helmet came out soon after.
Most of the other gear is more than familiar, though there hasn't been a picture of the dangerous Marwa ice screw yet - the coathanger/bottle opener. It was even scarier than the Salewa/Stubai version, in that the head was sort of like a cold shut - no actual weld. Not that the things would have held much anyway.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 21, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
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Hopefully Gary has stopped opening beers with his teeth by now! The first time he did that to me I didn't know whether to laugh or cringe.
The Daly digit in a jar, I bet Gary really likes that little tidbit!
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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May 22, 2007 - 03:04am PT
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Very Nice!!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2007 - 10:55pm PT
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I'm going back for a pic of mal's toe...
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2007 - 12:30am PT
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RE:
"though there hasn't been a picture of the dangerous Marwa ice screw yet"
I'll make a note (making note now) and look for it this week MH.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 23, 2007 - 12:36am PT
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Thanks - if I remember rightly, the eyelet on the Marwas had a red plastic coating, or perhaps paint. They were probably made out of very heavy gauge wire. I was at Neptune's in 2003, but can't remember if I saw one.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2007 - 12:38am PT
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OK, I'll ask Gary about it MH.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 23, 2007 - 01:00am PT
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It looks like an anorexic Charlet Moser!
Tonight's rarity features two Royal Robbins biners. Royal produced the Varappe (sp?)climbing shoe that had an endless run on the feet of hipsters and was a great design. In the hardware arena he had a few offerings. I am not precisely sure on dates but the bottom Salewa ultralight was pretty revolutionary in that it utilized hollow core stock to save weight rather than reducing overall size. The upper biner came later on if I am not mistaken.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 26, 2007 - 04:20pm PT
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Hey Ray- when you photograph that Dolt micropiton for show and tell please capture all of the blue Use Of Force statement tag and nearby text, if you would be so kind. Interesting to see where he sat in the impact debate.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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May 26, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
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Did some one mention crap gear from Salewa?
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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May 26, 2007 - 08:23pm PT
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Hey, anyone want to start their own museum? Here's a start:
For Sale: Forrest golden age ice tools. Just barely broken in.
oh yea, and here's another pre-golden age goody. This baby made it 1/4th of the way up Bridalveil Falls. (CO) ha ha
CHEAP!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 27, 2007 - 12:15pm PT
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That would be the Marwa mentioned earlier showing its proper use and a Hiebler ascender. As for the "dayglow metal monsters" (as YC used to say), Forrest tools were sturdy but, like many, lacked real performance.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 10:12pm PT
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I didn't forget my promise to post a close-up pic of this piton for Steve -
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 10:17pm PT
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mighty hiker asked about some old ice screws made from wire -
here's what I found on Gary's wall...
plus some interesting nuts from MOAC, I think
close up - thought those roundies were cool
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
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Steve - sorry just read your previous post, not a problem.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 10:22pm PT
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thought this plate rocked
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 10:23pm PT
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this one too
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 10:27pm PT
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here's a partial of a Forrest pin-bin shot w/ an extension pole - hey, what are they doing outside?
unloading beer?
and an uber cool set of metal-runged etrier
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 10:30pm PT
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Mighty hiker - here's some more of the old style ice screws
and these
as close as I could get w/ my equipment right now
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2007 - 10:34pm PT
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and some really old crampons
darn near stone-age
gotta love what Gary has put together - Steve I will not be so long in responding this time
cheers everyone
R. Dog
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Gonna need two screens for this one! Very cool hoard. The third frame features the Clog tiny brass hex (with red band) the first micronut, hanging amidst an assortment of Peck Crackers, the only other micro contender. The black slung nuggets to the right are Dolt goodies, I think, just like the Clog Truncated Cone Nut but no knurling. Zonk revisited! The big Moac sits in between.
The CMI case is awesome! All of the crack tacks and some angles and blades. Hammer too.
The pinbins are safe outside the case, trust me. Best way to lighten your rack is to thrash around wearing Pinbins in a corner. Yardsale!
The icescrews hanging in a line are, from the left; three Marwas, two drive-in ice pitons, two Salewa tubulars, one covering up a Charlet Moser corkscrew, first generation Salewa Warthog, unthreaded drive-in tube (stainless), pass??? and an old style vertical ice piton. And last but not least, hanging by its wristloop, a real live ice dagger for close in combat.
Man it has been so long away from the Neptune Museum that much has faded from memory. Thanks for the blast Ray.
Ask Gary if any of those crampons were Eckstein's original design.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2007 - 12:22am PT
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Steve I got a note on my desktop to ask Gary about those crampons -
man, there's some more stuff in there I wanna post - some stuff in this big glass case that looks like cave man gear, no sh*t! Like animal skins and everything...kid you knott
dude, I will get that label on the Dolt pin nailed on the next go along w/ the card above
anything else you need or I have forgotten lemme know
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2007 - 12:30am PT
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not sure what was going on, a Southern Sun fest? If you look close at the guy w/ his back mostly to the camera it's (the original) Crusher, Steve Bartlett.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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No sweat Ray. It is show and tell after all. Thanks for taking the time in the first place.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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And by the way, you left this rope on my car twenty five years ago Ray. Do you remember it?
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2007 - 05:33pm PT
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jeepers!
wow - neurons are firing, brain chemicals dancing - it may take a while to access that file but...
the image of that rope has triggered something in my brain
that is so funny!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2007 - 07:51pm PT
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ok - think it might have been about 82,
think that rope (and possibly one other) were booty: abandoned gear, I recall being very careful about making sure of that - there was some other stuff, Beehay got some of it for gas, giving me a ride back to S.D. as I recall
why that rope ended up on your car is uncertain - maybe I thought it would be a good home?
amazing seeing a picture of it
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I was pulling your leg Ray. I bought it from you as a fixing rope about 83 or so. Just thought you might be amused.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2007 - 10:12pm PT
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cool - I still think it might have been one of the ones found in an old pack in camp, sat there for days, filled w/ ropes, booze and some weird old porno books - threw all the sh*it out, sold the ropes and gave the pack to BeeHay. Ha!
amazing you still got it...
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 08:16pm PT
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alright more from the great Neptune Mountaineering here in Boulder -thread drift to include some other cool stuff hope you like it...
thought this EB w/ nice custom side panels would kick it off nicely
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 08:18pm PT
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now for the meat of it, Dolt Micro pin and related closeups
glad I went back to shoot these - pretty neat
and
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 08:19pm PT
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these cams were nearby so thought I'd put 'em in here - nice specimens...
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 08:26pm PT
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back by the sleeping bags is this case with stuff that looks like it came from an archaeological dig - guess it came off K2
and yes that is a pic of Alistair Crowley, more discretely displayed these days (some of you will know why)
here's the whole case
above on top of a nice vertical case is Mal's toe
yep, there it is...wow
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 08:28pm PT
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let's head into the footwear department shall we?
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 08:36pm PT
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alright,
on the left a Russian speed climbers shoe
on the right a Chezkslovakian climbing shoe - these were both donated to Gary by climbers from those places
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 08:39pm PT
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a lot of us can relate to these
left, the ultra-klunky and totally sucky leather RD
middle, shock the monkey a green PA (Watusi had these man, hot stuff)
right, needs no intro - the justifiably much maligned and long hated red PA - god what a hunk of sh*t
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 08:44pm PT
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after that I need something really cool and really sexy to look at, ah yes, vintage Kroni's will suffice
awesome aren't they?
ready to run it out in these babies?
go for it
I love this stuff
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 08:49pm PT
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wrap it up with a little something to offend the politically correct crowd
many have wondered just what the hell this thing is doing in the nations foremost specialty shop - pretty funny
a few nice pins on a glass shelf and...
das ist alles!
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Jun 10, 2007 - 10:13pm PT
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Nice pics. Ray. I've donated a handful of things to Gary's museum besides my toe. There's a bottle (empty) of Cuveé du Alpinist I got while in France a few years back and an original Jardine Friend that I bought from him in the Valley waaaaay back. Oooh! That remindes me. I have a proof set of the SushiFest beer bottles that Blinny made up that I need to take over there. Tomorrow.
As far a museum's go, Gray's is top notch. You just have to wander a bit. Next time in Boulder, plan to spend a hour or more there. No one will mind if yo bring a 12-pack of good beer.
Okay, any beer will do. But if it's good, you get a personal tour.
Mal
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 10:23pm PT
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cool Mal, pretty sure I saw that friend in there, thanks.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 10, 2007 - 10:30pm PT
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Go Ray Go!
Yer cookin' it up real nice.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 11:56pm PT
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thanks Roy,
not sure what happened to the pics in the earlier part of this thread - definitely an Image Shack thing/problem. Noticed some blank spots among the thumbnails - oh well...not sure I have a ton of love for or confidence in Image Shack and it's wierdness and slowness.
however - onward, upward...what the hell - more to come, why knott?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 11, 2007 - 02:19pm PT
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More gems from the past. Thanks again Ray. How about that early friend on the next pass. Curious what Jardine would have let out into the world at that point.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 11, 2007 - 03:11pm PT
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Just met a woman up here in Nederland who has a cabin adorned with vintage Holubar stuff, she spent time in the Valley around '70 and hung out with Bridwell & Co.; hinted at wanting some access for photos of the gear, no dice, yet...
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 07:10pm PT
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Steve - one old friend comin' up.
Thought some more footwear be in order too - I'm in a mood for shoes...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 11, 2007 - 08:59pm PT
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A guy can just never have enough shoes.....Man was Dolt a character. That impact statement was actually a strange Vulcan material exploration! More old Dolt madness.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 09:21pm PT
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Dolt bashies detail
Cheers Steve!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 09:25pm PT
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and now...
what you've all been waiting, hoping and praying for,
folks...
it's Mal's friend
Zowie
wait, can't let it go with that anti-climactic gesture...
ah yes, up close and personal
remember, you saw it here first
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 09:27pm PT
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somehow, right about now
this seems relevant...
yes, very fitting
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 09:28pm PT
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gotta love Gary Neptune's sense of humor...
perfect
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 09:30pm PT
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thought this was pretty nice
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 11, 2007 - 09:32pm PT
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haha hehe...
those news clips make one ponder!
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Jun 11, 2007 - 09:55pm PT
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What's so special about that Friend, I was pluggin' in some of those on Taquitz this weekend.
Ray, you gave me what? All I remember was a used spit cup, Skoal brother! BH
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 09:58pm PT
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one used spit cup comin' up!
no problem...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 11, 2007 - 10:14pm PT
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That friend is straight early production rather than a funky prototype. Holubar gear could be tasty there Roy. Hope you get to eyeball it.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 10:18pm PT
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more historical memorabilia...
another cool newspaper clip
what? ya mean no one wanted the spit cup?
I should calm down?
huh...
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 10:22pm PT
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last ones for the night...
Derek Hersey shrine high on Neptune's east wall in the book department...
detail one
detail two
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Jun 12, 2007 - 01:19am PT
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Since my rack has a couple dozen Friends of that vintage I thought this might be an item of interest.
The rarely seen "Friend of a Friend" by Ed Leeper. It works great, and I have used it to great advantage over the years.
Michael
edit, sorry I am new to posting photos and I realize that image size is too large. I will get this figured out better!
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Jun 12, 2007 - 01:55am PT
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In use
Michael
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 13, 2007 - 12:46am PT
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Cool Hershey memorial. The story about him instructing his dog to "bite them, bite the hangdogs!" still makes me laugh every time I think of it. Amazing character, tragic end.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2007 - 12:55am PT
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I'll be back w/ some nailed boots, packs and other...
thanks Steve
and thanks nick d for the Leeper friend tool, man I had one of those and the thing was awesome, it would really get stuck friends out
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| Messages 1 - 79 of total 79 in this topic |
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