Angel Wings - Sequoia Park

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Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic

Levy

Big Wall climber

So Cal

Topic Author's Original Post - May 18, 2007 - 11:23am PT

Has anybody out there ever been out to Angel Wings by Hamilton Lake? I first laid eyes on it 30 years ago on a backpack trip & I've wanted to climb it ever since.

There are at least 4 reported routes but the South Arete route looks cleanest and goes all free at a reported 5.11. Has anybody else done this? Any rack suggestions? It's 18 mile approach has me looking to shave unnecessary weight from the pack so I don't want to schlep a huge set of cams we're not going to use.

Any suggestions, tips, etc would be appreciated.

Levy

matisse

climber

May 18, 2007 - 11:39am PT

the porter did it a while back. he's got his head down at his desk being a corporate tool at present, so he might not post. here is his TR to get you started:
http://www.climber.org/TripReports/2002/850.html

Levy

Big Wall climber

So Cal

Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2007 - 11:44am PT

Cool trip report! I suspect that there may be some wet pitches but nothing like the torrent described in the T.R. The warm temps described make me wonder if the heat may be a factor. Thanks for the info!

Largo

Sport climber

Venice, Ca

May 18, 2007 - 01:29pm PT

That's a huge hike in there. I did it 30 years ago with Fred Becky and lost our food at Bear Paw Meadow and had to hike out and then back again. Angle Wings is not the best rock but if you look around and stay on the ridges and aretes you might find something good.
JL

the chemist

climber

Palo Alto, CA

May 18, 2007 - 03:42pm PT

Levy

Big Wall climber

So Cal

Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2007 - 03:50pm PT

That is one terrific shot of the Angel Wings. Much more detailed than anything I have or anything else published in guidebooks (Secor, Vernon)

The potential for new stuff seems huge. Maybe a high standard free route can be done. My guess is that if the A.W. were in Yosemite, it would have over 30 routes on it and several modern free routes. 18 miles of hiking tends to keep the crowds away, which is a good thing too.

I'm gettin' psyched big time!

Nefarius

Big Wall climber

Fresno, CA

May 18, 2007 - 04:04pm PT

18 miles... Ugh! That same number has kept me from Tehipite Dome for years! I'm getting closer though. =)

the chemist

climber

Palo Alto, CA

May 18, 2007 - 04:17pm PT

I have to say that I have zero big wall or aid experience and I have only been leading trad for about 6 months but I found AW to be an inspiring formation in a fantastic location. I would love to climb on it someday. I probably won't get the opportunity this summer, but I will always be thinking about getting back there to climb.

Largo

Sport climber

Venice, Ca

May 18, 2007 - 08:15pm PT

If Angel's Wings was in the Valley it would have 150 routes on it. That's a great shot. Fantastic detail. Just don't get stuck back in the gulleys or the rock gets shitty. Stay on the exposed stuff Levy and you'll rock.
JL

CAC

Gym climber

Clairemont

May 19, 2007 - 01:34am PT

South Arete: doubles up to and including #3 Camalot. We had one piece bigger but I don't remember using it. Emphasize small stuff - I remember some thin sections.

The hike wasn't as bad as I expected - you actually don't gain that much altitude from the trailhead to Hamilton Lakes and there are no passes to go over. Something like 5,000 ft gain and loss over 18 miles. If you're going to hike all the way in there, might as well scamper up the N Arete of Hamilton Dome on the way out...

Kevin Daniels

climber

May 19, 2007 - 04:28am PT

bill

i started a new route on the thing in 2003. i had a packer take us in. we ran out of time and bailed. the rock was quality. talk to mr big or dave nettle. dave has probably spent more time on it than anyone

i have daves number

cheers

kevin daniels
714 642 5354

Maysho

climber

Truckee, CA

May 19, 2007 - 10:08am PT

Great photo! Did a cool new route up there with Urmas Franosch, 5 or six years ago, well shown in the shot. Up the prominent right hooking arch just left of photo center, straight up the steep wall, then the steeper left facing small corner you can see in the sun, then up the diagonal ramp that ends just left of the right summit. "The Devil Made Me Do It" 5.10A3+? One bolt. The steep pitch in the sun that leads to the ramp was a half pitch of weird aid, an incipient (I love that word) seam in the back of a wide groove. Placements alternated between bad beaks and ultra large cams with only the two back lobes camming between crystals. 2nd half of the pitch was perfect hands in an overhanging flake. We fixed the arch, then spent the night sitting it out at the bottom of the upper ramp, finishing late the next morning. We walked all the way along the base on the descent and scoped the wall. The rock is worse than it looks, as Largo said, the smaller features on the exposed bulges and aretes are preferable to any of the big cracks or grooves. I want to go back for the S. Arete, and maybe the dome above, and to wander around in the Kaweahs.

As stated prior, the hike though long, is really quite pleasant. The trail is unique in being the only major trans Sierra trail that was not a native trading path first. It was made by the WPA workers in the 30's and is somewhat forced through the canyon topography, which means it is unnaturally level. We had our climbing gear taken in and out by mules to Bear Paw, so only 4 miles with the monster packs.

And (Hey Kevin!) Nettle is the man, having served some seasons as the Bear Paw ranger, but how about those car-to-car stories?

Peter

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

May 19, 2007 - 10:25am PT

Interesting thread.

Largo & Becky on a Sierra adventure together: gotta' be a story there!?!

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

May 19, 2007 - 10:30am PT

no doubt a story, but I'd guess the probable setting is not on the climb, but back in town....

Zander

Trad climber

Berkeley

May 19, 2007 - 12:29pm PT

Thanks for all the stories guys.
Angel Wings is one of these "dream" routes. You keep getting out the guide book and reading about it again. I like to pretend I can free all of any route I get on. Years ago, after looking at the photo of the Black Roof being climbed I decided the very day after I can remotely pretend to climb that thing I'm going for it! Any takers?
Zander