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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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May 15, 2007 - 04:49pm PT
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ROCK CLIMBING:
Climbing itself does not require a separate permit (for example, to use removable or existing
fixed protection). However, other permits for use of the area (for example placing new fixed
anchors, overnight bivy camping, or late exit parking) may be required where applicable. Areas
may be closed (permanently or seasonally) to climbing when needed to prevent degradation to
wildlife, plants, cultural resources, or recreational opportunities. Areas within 50 feet of rock art
are closed to climbing. The agencies are responsible for identifying permanently or seasonally
closed areas with the exception of rock art which is self identifying.
The agencies will maintain a climbing inventory which will serve as the identification of routes,
and of those with approved fixed anchors. A permit will be required to place additional new
fixed anchors. Each new permitted route will be added to the climbing inventory. Fixed anchors
may not be placed with power drills, only hand drills are allowed for the placement of new fixed
anchors.
Replacement or removal of existing fixed anchors. Replacement of existing worn or unstable
fixed anchors on routes identified in the climbing inventory may be accomplished by the public.
So as to minimize impact to the rock, all fixed anchors must be stainless steel, minimum 3/8”
diameter and minimum 3 ½” deep (and comply with other guidelines) to assure the longest
durability possible and the least frequent replacement. A permit for bolt replacement must be
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obtained a minimum of two weeks in advance. The removal of fixed anchors may occur under
the same permit if removal would not substantially change the character of the climb or descent.
All holes must be patched. If the proposal for removal would cause a substantial change in the
character of the climb or descent, public comment and additional analysis would be required
prior to permitting.
Agency removal of existing fixed anchors. The removal of existing fixed anchors may occur in
areas permanently closed to climbing so as to prevent degradation to wildlife, plants, cultural
resources, or recreational opportunities. These proposals would be subject to additional analysis
and public comment.
New fixed anchors. One of two permit types will be required for the placement of new fixed
anchors. The first permit type is for minimal bolt placement on long routes, and would not
require specific identification of fixed anchor locations prior to issuing the permit. The first
permit does not require public evaluation. The second type is for more than minimal bolt
placement or areas within 100 feet of the base of the cliff system, and will require identification
of approximate fixed anchor locations prior to issuing the permit. The second permit requires
agency and public review prior to issuance of the permit.
Permit 1 - The area (generally the wall and the approximate route) must be specified to obtain
the permit, however the location of fixed anchor placements does not need to be identified in
advance. The following conditions apply:
• No fixed anchors within the first 100 feet from the base of the cliff system.
• Three or fewer fixed anchors (including those used for belay/rappel anchors or lead
protection) on a climbing pitch above 100 ft from the base of the cliff system (This does
not mean an average of 3 fixed anchors per pitch on the climbing route).
• The route must not be a previously existing climb, or within 20 feet of an existing climb
recorded in the agency maintained climbing inventory (with the exception of the initial or
final 20 feet of the climb if starting or ending at a previously existing climb).
• Placement must adhere to requirements and guidelines established to minimize impact to
the wilderness resource as specified in the permit.
• Placement of fixed anchors for a rappel decent route separate of the new climbing route
would be allowed under the permit if no other decent route previously exists for the wall.
Permit 2 – The specific route must be identified in advance as well as the approximate location
of fixed anchors. This permit is required if any of the following conditions apply:
• Any placement of fixed anchors within the first 100 ft from the base of the cliff system.
• More than three anchors (including those used for belay/rappel anchors or lead
protection) per climbing pitch on any segment of the route.
• Placement of fixed anchors on any previously existing climb recorded in the climbing
inventory.
• Placement of fixed anchors for the sole purpose of canyoneering or sport rappelling
descent.
A two week agency review will be required for permit 1. Applications for permit 1 may be made
on any day the federal government is open for business. A 30 day agency and public review will
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be required for permit 2. Applications will be accepted on the 10th of every month (or the next
following day the federal government is open for business). Only one permit application may be
made per person. Five permit applications will be drawn at random for evaluation. Public
endorsement or opposition will be considered in determining if the proposal meets the objectives
and guidelines for new route development. Permit applications that provide a diversity of
aesthetic and enjoyable routes, are dispersed so that wilderness solitude is maintained, increase
the variety of difficulty and applied technique, and comply with all other guidelines may be
approved. The permit request may be denied if a majority of public opposition to the route is
expressed. If the permit request would exceed the guidelines for bolt density within the area, it
will be denied. If the permit request includes a decent route that would cross sensitive resources
or have the potential to cause undue soil erosion, the climbing route would be denied if an
alternate decent route is not possible. The following considerations will be used in determining
the appropriateness of a climb under permit 2:
• A route on a significant independent rock feature as compared to addition of a route to a
rock feature or wall with existing routes.
• Routes that follow an obvious feature or a direct line on the path of least resistance on a
wall would be favored compared to indirect routes or routes that end in the middle of a
face.
• Longer routes would be favored over short routes.
• Routes that are farther away from other existing routes would be favored as compared to
routes close to others.
• A difficult climb in an area with many easier climbs, or visa versa, would be favored.
The following rules apply for all new fixed anchor placements or replacements:
1) If placing traditional gear is possible (for example, cracks are present which would
accept chocks, cams, etc) no new fixed anchors will be permitted.
2) To assure fixed anchors are durable and do not require replacement for the longest
period of time possible (replacement which would cause impacts to the rock surface), all
new fixed anchors must be stainless steel, minimum 3/8” diameter and minimum 3 ½”
deep.
3) All bolt hangers and chains permitted within the first 100 feet from the base of the cliff
system must be painted a color that blends with the rock surface.
4) No fixed anchors will be permitted on cliffs identified by the agency as being occupied
by sensitive species if climbing is determined to be detrimental to the species.
5) No fixed anchors will be permitted within 50 feet of rock art.
6) Permitee must provide a route diagram and route description to the agency within 30
days after the fixed anchors have been installed.
7) A descent route must be specified for all new routes.
Recommendations:
1) Paint bolt hangers and chains above 100 feet.
2) Where possible, existing climbing bolts within 100 feet from the base of the cliff
system should be painted with a color similar to the surrounding rock.
3) Webbing, rope, or other nylon materials should not be left except in emergencies or
under unexpected circumstances requiring timely action to remain safe.
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The Environmental Assessment of this plan completes the analysis for the maximum amount of
development (present and future) allowed through the life of the plan. No additional planning
analysis is required for issuing permits under the guidelines as specified. The maximum amount
of fixed anchor development is specified as follows:
1) No fixed anchors would be allowed in the wilderness zoned as the Pristine Opportunity
Class Zone. This opportunity class includes Sandstone and Mustang Canyons within the
Rainbow Mountain Wilderness.
2) Fixed anchors would be allowed in low densities in the Primitive Opportunity Class
Zone.
Rainbow Mountain Wilderness: 1,135 new additional fixed anchors
1,501 existing fixed anchors
La Madre Mountain Wilderness: 161 new additional fixed anchors
383 existing fixed anchors
3) Fixed anchors would be allowed in the Semi-Primitive Opportunity Class Zone in low
densities, but higher densities than in the Primitive Opportunity Class Zone. The semiprimitive
zone includes the first ½ mile (measured from the boundary of the wilderness)
of the more highly visited canyons.
Rainbow Mountain Wilderness.
Icebox Canyon: 220 potential additional fixed anchors
172 existing fixed anchors
Pine Creek Canyon: 338 potential additional fixed anchors
347 existing fixed anchors
Juniper Canyon: 125 potential additional fixed anchors
204 existing fixed anchors
Oak Creek Canyon/
Mount Wilson: 252 potential additional fixed anchors
271 existing fixed anchors
First Creek Canyon: 417 potential additional fixed anchors
75 existing fixed anchors
Black Velvet Canyon/
Whiskey Peak: 164 potential additional fixed anchors
1,005 existing fixed anchors
Mud Springs Canyon/
Windy Peak: 164 potential additional fixed anchors
36 existing fixed anchors
Total: 1,680 potential additional fixed anchors
2,110 existing fixed anchors
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La Madre Mountain Wilderness:
Gateway Canyon/
Kraft Mountain: 20 potential additional fixed anchors
426 existing fixed anchors
The following rules apply for all climbing activity:
1) No scraping, cutting, or digging, to remove vegetation on climbing routes.
2) No creating holds by installing artificial holds, gluing, drilling, chipping, or similar activities.
3) Prying rock out of place is not allowed; setting aside loose rocks which may fall and cause
injury is allowed.
4) No climbing is allowed within 50 feet of rock art.
Definitions:
Base of the Cliff System: The lowest point at which rock climbing begins and hiking ends. This
is normally the point at which the first belay is given by a member of the climbing party.
Canyoneering: Descending a canyon or drainage which requires some rappelling to pass over
cliffs (such as pour offs) in the drainage.
Sport Rappelling: Rappelling a precipice as the primary focus of the activity. This normally
does not include rappelling for the purpose of descending a technical climbing wall which cannot
be walked off.
Fixed anchor: any installed bolt or other type of hardware permanently installed into the rock.
A belay or rappel station is considered two fixed anchors.
ROCK CLIMBING ACCESS PATHS
Paths that provide access to the base of climbing routes will not be managed as designated hiking
trails, but as visitor worn paths as previously described. Climbing access paths may be identified
in a means that directs climbers, but not in a way that would attract use by average hikers. Paths
will normally be steep, rough, and brushy, but may be managed to avoid multiple routes from
forming or to avoid resource damage. Duplicate routes will be obscured and obstructed with
brush and rocks. Wooden directional posts may be used where necessary to keep climbers onroute
and avoid impacts to vegetation and soils. Posts will be no more than three feet high, and
where necessary, could also include a small identifying reflective paint spot or decal (which is
non-reflective in daylight) so that they can be seen in the dark with a light. To signify it is a
climbing access route, a post with a carabineer symbol may be placed approximately 15 feet
from the intersection with a designated trail.
RECREATIONAL RIDING AND PACK STOCK ANIMALS:
Recreational riding and pack stock animals will be limited to washes and trails designated for
equestrian use. This limitation is to avoid creation of new trails resulting from repeated cross
country riding. To avoid user conflicts or damage to resources, riding will not be permitted on
trails identified for hiking only. Cross country use of riding or pack stock will be permitted
during hunting season for members of a hunting party in possession of a valid hunting license
and tag, and in pursuit of big game. Use of pack stock animals known to carry catastrophic
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