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Towshab
climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 14, 2007 - 11:41pm PT
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Now that the pass is open. What are your favorite obscure cracks in Tuolumne Meadows. Number of pitches and grade don't matter, just looking to start a list of fun things to do this summer.
Thanks
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 14, 2007 - 11:58pm PT
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crack routes in Slab Central!
Here are some that I've had fun on:
West Crack 5.9 DAFF
South Crack 5.8 Stately Pleasure Dome
Little Sheba 5.10a The Lamb
On The Lamb 5.9 The Lamb
Right North Book 5.7 The Lamb
Phobos 5.9 Poly Dome
The Block, Left 5.9 The Block Area
Ivory Tower, Center 5.10a Olmstead Area
Direct Northwest Face 5.10c Lembert Dome
Lucky Streaks 5.10b Fairview Dome
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WBraun
climber
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May 15, 2007 - 12:05am PT
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Memos from Loyd
Goldfinger
Speed of life
The climbs on the back of that puppy dome thing.
Blues Riffs
Wailing wall
Yawn
Death Crack
Ah screw it, I like all the cracks up there .....
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Paradise
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May 15, 2007 - 12:05am PT
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all the ones Ed mentioned +
3rd pillar
lucky streaks
lord caffiene
direct nw on lembert
regular route eichorn
crescent arch
yep thy're all good
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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May 15, 2007 - 12:08am PT
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Aqua Knobby
Crescent Arch (kinda a crack)
The Great Circle
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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May 15, 2007 - 12:13am PT
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There is a good one on Pothole Dome too. Otherwise, Werner named all the really good ones.
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HJ
Social climber
Bozeman, Montana
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May 15, 2007 - 12:58am PT
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Lord Caffiene
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10b4me
Trad climber
Hell A
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May 15, 2007 - 01:03am PT
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There is a good one on Pothole Dome too. Otherwise, Werner named all the really good ones.
on Pothole, whereabouts'? if you don't mind
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Dragon with Matches
climber
Bamboo Grove
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May 15, 2007 - 01:04am PT
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Some dihedral lookin' thang up on Drug Dome.
Mmmmm, steep cracks in the Meadows. Pure, perfect heaven.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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May 15, 2007 - 01:55am PT
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"There is a good one on Pothole Dome too."
Its around on the westish side. Has TR anchors. Really steep with a little roof finish.
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Jude Bischoff
Ice climber
Palm Springs
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May 15, 2007 - 02:04am PT
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Bob Kamps followed me up lucky streaks a few years ago. He was climbing like a champ at 70. Still had a 20 year old body. I asked him how he found the route on the first ascent. "We didn't think it would go" was his reply, we just got lucky!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 15, 2007 - 02:07am PT
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2nd the motion for West Crack 5.9 DAFF
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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May 15, 2007 - 02:23am PT
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P1 Bombs Over Tokyo. One of the best. I daydream about it as much as classics like Lunatic Fringe and Mr Natural. Memos from Loyd was hard as hell I thought, I never got it.
Many many good cracks in the meadows, but don't neglect the beautiful faces either.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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May 15, 2007 - 02:53am PT
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The crack on Pothole Dome is called Potluck.
Also:
Stick and Stones below Medlicott
The Sting on Harlequin Dome (Midget Underclimg!)
Reg Route on Fairview Dome (1st three pitches)
Bruce
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 15, 2007 - 03:01am PT
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Black Angel
Heart of Stone
Tideline
Handbook
Positivity
Love Supreme
Lechlinski Flake
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 15, 2007 - 03:08am PT
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"Tideline" means you're all washed up, Yerian.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 15, 2007 - 10:46am PT
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I'm surprised no one has mentioned OZ. 5.10b on Drug Dome, I didn't because I haven't climbed it, yet... but it is considered by most who do as the best.
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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May 15, 2007 - 10:54am PT
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Cooke Book
There are some nice-looking ones up on Mariuolumne Dome which
I haven't done. Arms Race etc.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 24, 2014 - 02:13pm PT
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I saw a photo of the climb Handbook, and it looks simply fabulous. Any more beta on it?
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Friend
climber
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Dec 24, 2014 - 03:17pm PT
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Favorites so far:
Blues riff
phobos
speed of life
Oz/gram
On the lam
Handbook
Arms race
Next on my list is Do or Fly!
The hand crack boulder prob by Olmstead point is easy but beautiful.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Dec 24, 2014 - 03:36pm PT
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Blues Riff
Handbook
Death Crack
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Friend
climber
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Dec 24, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
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Handbook...
Others could give better beta but I remember 2 pitches on great rock, a really pretty corner. Both pitches have hard moves, P1 more physical, hard jams, and p2 more technical and face/stemmy. Great climb.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Dec 24, 2014 - 06:18pm PT
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Heart of Stone
Blues Riff
OZ
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 24, 2014 - 06:29pm PT
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Thanks Bryan, I checked Mountain Project, cool. How about Sacred Fire which on second pitch has a 150 ft overhanging hand crack first done by Ron Kauk, anyone done it?
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Friend
climber
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Dec 24, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
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Brassnuts.. killer shots. Tell me about heart of stone!
Walleye... any photos to share? Love to see em.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Dec 24, 2014 - 10:14pm PT
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Dec 25, 2014 - 12:24am PT
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Dec 25, 2014 - 05:33am PT
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Walleye, is A Love Supreme a 5.13 thin with a crux at the bottom and top? I tr a 13 years ago (no I did not get it without hangs) in the Meadows and I haven't been able to remember the name of it, but this sounds right.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Dec 25, 2014 - 06:39am PT
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There's plenty of classic cracks up there in Tuolomne. I like some of the more obscure ones like Handbook (definitely worth the hike) and Into The Void.
Do or Fly is always fun on TR, or lead it if you're feeling burly.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Dec 25, 2014 - 11:01am PT
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What about all the crack climbs up at Murphy Creek? Park at the west end of Tenaya Lake and walk about a mile up there. Way neat hang with impressive views of the west face of Mt Conness.
And, yes, the next-to-impossible crux of the Love Supreme crack is up at the top. How many ascents has that one had?
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Dec 25, 2014 - 11:33am PT
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Sharp is right! I had flappers. I looked it up online and indeed it fits my memory.
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