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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 7, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
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What have you been up to? Any ordinary climbs that were good fun but don't deserve their own thread?
First visit of the season to Cathedral Ledge this afternoon, perfect pre-summer weather. Retaliation and Bird's Nest on the menu.
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TradIsGood
Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Have a new partner.
This weekend we nearly killed somebody, see the Rock! thread.
But otherwise enjoyed Horseman, but waited too long for it, in retrospect. Wrist starts with a short little crack, has a nice layback dihedral section. Then P2 offers a beutiful exposed hand traverse under a roof, with a roof below the feet, and a step around the arete onto a face. Built one of the most complex anchors I have used to remain in contact with second through P2 crux, and turning P2 into two pitches. Second was very happy I did. It might not have turned out well otherwise.
Edit: The first time I saw Wrist I muscled through P1 crux, sweating. And the second crux had me completely baffled. Only when I was running out of forearms did I figure out how to handle it. I did not see my first go through it because of where he set belay on P1 and he did not short-pitch it for me. My new partner is about the same experience level outdoors as I was then, but stronger than I was. I told her how to do the crux, but while doing it, I decided that maybe it might be a good idea to stay where I could see her.
I would describe Easy Keyhole as the "most technical 5.2 in the Gunks". Did that as we were leaving just for fun. Features some weird stemming, balancy friction moves just to get started. At least that is what I thought. Was trying to figure out why I was only getting rope about 3 inches at a time while belaying. My partner demonstrated the alternative when we got back down. Apparently one can also squeeze into a chimney and inch-worm up. I guess it is just not that technical! :-)
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WBraun
climber
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Chiloe
Wow nice looking routes, I like those.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yes, yes, what's that hand crack jobber on the right?
'Looks like the kinda thing one might find jammy.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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A climb so cool, that lichen refrained from growing near it.
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TradIsGood
Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Jaybro, is that an original?
Can't wait to use that one!
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james Colborn
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Left climb Recluse 5.10 hard? Both Henry Barber FFA's. I love Cathedral. Dude you got some fine pics.
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james Colborn
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Two weeks ago my wife and I took her mother on a cruise. The ship had a climbing wall, but you had to wear a helmet and they used bod harnesses, enough said. The real climbing came in Cozumel. We took a cooking class {highlight of the trip}, at some resort and after the cooking class we had an open bar and food for the rest of the day. Just offshore about 100yrds. they had this climbing/slide iceberg float. What a blast, after a couple of margs and beers the real fun was just starting.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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A random TR. Sorry about the pictures, none are very good and don't capture the fun of the place. So what's the point? Dunno.
Six of us descended on Christmas Tree Pass at the end of April.
We caught a break with the weather, it was super for all four days of our stay. And the snakes weren't out yet.
The first day we replaced the bolts on Old School, a 5.7 slab on RCS Dome. I got to lead it, it's a long way to the first bolt, of course.
The second day Cliff and Nan showed up. Cliff had never been out to the Pass, so we put him on The Streaker, a 5.10a on H&R Block. This is not the crux.
Here's the belay.
MJ, Big Daddy and I swapped leads on the three long pitches of Prime Interest, 5.9, which was next door. We had replaced the old bolts on this route last year. We had a hoot climbing it. It's a little run out, but we all felt solid. JohnX asked if, while leading, we looked down at the bolt below us. No way. As Big Daddy said, "There's nothing for us down there but death and dismemberment."
MJ shocked us when she volunteered to lead the third pitch. I was happy to just relax and follow.
The Riverside Casino buffet tasted particularly good that night.
The third day we went to the excellent Dali Dome, home of Wilkinson Sword, which is just about as cool a climb as there is in the southwest. No kidding. It's a two pitch 5.7. The second pitch follows the flake system. Pull down, not out! When it's windy, that flake sings.
The last day MJ, Big Daddy and I went back to Dali Dome to try MC1. It's a nice, very sustained 5.8 that I had followed but never led. The second bolt is an old 1/4"er with a Leeper hanger. It's also a spinner. It's still good to hold a slider though, as I proved four times. Sometimes stubborness is not a good quality. MJ showed me how it's done, by going left of the bolt. Here she is at the crux.
After this move, it was fifty feet to the next bolt. Gulp.
This route is starting to clean up some. It didn't have the corn flakes of years past.
On the next trip in November, we're going to replace the bolts on a couple of climbs on Dali Dome: Surreal Peel, 5.10a, and Tough Animals, 5.9. Maybe someone will climb these again. We actually found some evidence of other climbers. Just remember kids: "Everybody climbs better at the Pass."
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Hell on earth wondering what I did to deserve it
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No photos. Sorry. Everyone says I should get out and meet new folks in this ghost town. So, tonight a colleague and I went to a newish place in town that is a giant room filled with trampolines. I met four new people. All women.
We jumped and ran on those things for an hour. It was an aerobics-trampoline class. The first several jumps I was certain my heart was going to rip right off the "heart-stalk" and I'd drop dead immediately. I kept on anyway. It was fun going SO high!! The walls are at a 45 degree with trampoline surface so one can run at them and bounce off. SUPER fun. We'll go again soon and I'll try and take the camera.
Check it out: http://www.skyzonesports.com/
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L
climber
NoName City and It Don't Look Pretty
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Chiloe--That second photo rocks, Dooood! What an awesome place.
Gary--Better crappy photos than none at all...and yours were not bad!
Crimpie--Boing...Boing...Boing! A tramp gym in St. Louie??? Where???
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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The day Shelley blew her shoulder out on Scorpion, T Meadows,
Attire strictly defined by the Flash Dance era:
from an 8X11 I have which Greg Epperson produced
Corner of Madness, Meteora Greece, sans cowboy hat,
But my Dan Post pointy toed ridin' boots made the trip:
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Marshall
climber
bay area
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Nice shots everybody! Tarbuster, classic T Meadows lycra shot. Chiloe, that place looks great!
Hit Utah with the special lady friend a couple weeks ago.
Stormy over IC/Canyonlands:
The base of Fine Jade at 9am on a Tuesday. Number being help up represents place in line.
This guy Nate hucking off Castleton. Amazing...
The old lady on Fine Jade, finally:
Checked this out on the drive home. You folks been down there?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Havasupai?
went down there once, very fun. seemed like stacks of climbing potential.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 07:26am PT
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Christmas Tree Pass, cruise ships and iceberg slides, trampoline fun, climbing Fine Jade and jumping off Castleton, Meteora with no cowboy hat ... a day in the life of Supertopo. Let's see more!
Back on Cathedral, yeah those cracks were as fun as they look. On Retaliation you've got this positive diagonal layback that goes on and on, with much of the entertainment coming from having to place protection along the way. Bird's Nest gives you straight-on finger locks one after another. Its starting footholds have become nicely polished through the years.
Here's another view of Eric on the final section of Bird's Nest. The BN photos by the way shot by a kindly stranger, and the Retaliation one by Eric; I take no photog credit here.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Hell on earth wondering what I did to deserve it
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The trampoline gym is in Chesterfield - west county area. Um, I feel a little worked today!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 10:24am PT
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For some reason this reminds me of a short-lived TV show that used to feature a cheerful "girls on trampolines" segment at the end. Not that I watched.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Went out and got some shots of the brother on this route he's been working on. He's so close it's painful. Still over my head though....
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Y'know, that looks kinda steep. That iceberg thingy has a better landing, though.
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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from the diving board
Clark from the top of HD
south face of HD
Watkins
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2007 - 01:56pm PT
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Was the Snake Dike a part of this trip?
You don't often see photos that close up to the S face of Half Dome -- the arch looks pretty awkward. I vaguely recall either Warren or Gallen saying that exiting the top of the arch was the most strenuous aid pitch he'd done.
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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yes chiloe,
couple of fellas freein some stuff back there right now also...such a wild and untouched area.. always wanted to scope it out
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2007 - 02:45pm PT
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So are you left-coast again now? North Conway season seems to have started for me finally, send a note if you happen to be around.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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May 10, 2007 - 03:25pm PT
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Rallied with a couple a fellas to Butte yesterday for an after work bouldrin' session with the Hutch.
After a brief warm-up we went into 'Vedauwoo training mode' on this OW that I previously eyed out(and got bouted on)
One of the funkier problems I've ever done.....
Then on to a couple others....
Anyone else getting out this mid-week? Weekend plans?
Cheers,
Tom
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 10, 2007 - 04:12pm PT
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I want to puke, just seeing the pictures, it looks, That, good.
Lesson plans and forams, here, but on to Gary's wide, tonight.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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May 10, 2007 - 04:29pm PT
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Yeah, TK, that upside-down, no-hands, sit-start (head-start?) has to have one of the coolest starting moves that I've have ever done.
edit: Jaybro, I don't want to rub it in, but it was, That, good!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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May 10, 2007 - 07:44pm PT
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I'm training for two new and exciting sports.
Sitting, and
making coffee.
I'm committed to getting very good at both.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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May 10, 2007 - 10:03pm PT
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You will not go unrewarded, Raydog.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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May 10, 2007 - 10:15pm PT
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my commitment
is unwavering...
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goatboy smellz
climber
colorado
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May 10, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
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Ray, you have mastered the ultimate sit-start.
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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May 11, 2007 - 06:45pm PT
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chiloe,
just a brief visit out west, then hanging in DC for some education crap till june, will get in touch when i get back to CT, will post some random shots later also
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 11, 2007 - 06:55pm PT
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"Jaybro, I don't want to rub it in, but it was, That, good! "
Moj, I could tell, I phrased it ironically, but meant it sincerely!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2007 - 07:31pm PT
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Snakefoot, send a note when you're back around. Next 5 months are the best time in the Whites for fairweather lazy craggers like me.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2007 - 04:06pm PT
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Tarbuster, I just sent you an e-mail that bounced. Gist of it is I *will* be back in town that week, send me a note.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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May 21, 2007 - 05:08pm PT
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A few shots from over the weekend...
Stigmata
Bad Access
Cheers
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2007 - 08:31pm PT
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Bluebird skies above white granite in North Conway today. Snakefoot onsights Dunn's classic Loose Lips.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 29, 2007 - 09:10pm PT
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Wife and I climbed Venutian Blind this weekend.
Bigger deal than the bokks make it seem. The Super Topo was a bit disappointing (A First!).
More than a great trip with my favorite partner... Her first High Sierra Climb.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Some climbs of May, 2007
Lake Tenya and Tenya Peak, first open day 2007
Jaybro on West Country belay below the corner
Kicking back on South Crack top of pitch 2
Gary moving across the skyline on Great White Book on our third pitch (but the last pitch of the route)
Duke- at the oak tree at the end of the traverse beyond the penji, Royal Arches
Dudleya cymosa, Royal Arches
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2007 - 09:20pm PT
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Summer climbing weather was fine as it gets in New Hampshire this weekend.
GOclimb and I got out to the South Buttress for a trip up Lost Souls.
P1 has good rock but slightly funky gear, could be why many folks skip it.
GO puzzles up the crux face moves on P2.
Starting the exposed arete on P3.
P4 keeps the fun going.
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crřtch
climber
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Huayna Potosi, Bolivia in May.
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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awesome.....keep em comin
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Emac givin' it to Screaming Yellow Zonkers on a gorgeous Jun 30th.
Then we went looking for a supposed classic but couldn't find it in the jungle of undergrowth. Instead we stumbled on this little thing.
We kind of groveled to the top but it was worth it.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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cool stuff everyone - my life is pretty boring by comparison
Monday June 4th 2am Arapahoe Pass trail - headed up
it started raining so I bivied at 3:30 am in some trees and waited to see what the weather would do
the weather closed in so I split
Neva Peak at about 5:30am
Monday June 11th
The trail to Diamond lake
killer weather
my camp on the bench above Diamond lake
like sleeping on a thick mattress of Astroturf - no bugs either
South East face of Jasper - all routes looking good and fat
the snow pack in the trees - temps at night 40 degrees cooler than in Boulder
like I said, pretty boring...
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Beauty Ray ***
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2007 - 08:19am PT
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crřtch, your SA trip must have been a grand adventure. Those photos deserve to be larger. Got stories?
wootles, your pictures look just like mine except 20 degrees steeper. Camera tricks, eh? Good to know some folks are still climbing those pre-sport-area desperates.
Raydog, alpine starts and timberline in the Indian Peaks are worth sharing even when the weather closes down. I got nostalgic seeing the shot of Mt. Neva.
Thanks, all!
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Emac may have been using some photo tricks but the route really was pretty steep. It will most likely never get repeated as it was quite a scramble to get to it. We were trying to find Stone Free but everything in there was so overgrown we couldn't find where it starts. We kept scrambling around trying to get a better look and eventually found two really nice cracks. The one we climbed was the less dirty of the two and was actually pretty decent. Topped out just right of that nasty gully that splits the cliff.
It was a fantastic day weather wise and Screaming Yellow Zonkers went down without too much of a fight, no on sight but still a good one to tick off.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2007 - 08:57am PT
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Heh, I was just kidding about photo tricks -- your horizon is dead level. The leading looks a little serious, no?
Does anyone ever repeat China or Neuromancer?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2007 - 09:00am PT
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And BTW I thought of doing a photo-collage with those distinctive yellow-and-red 8.4s -- they've traveled a bit now, still look almost new.
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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I don't think any of those routes get repeats. Of course this was the first time I've been to Woodchuck in about 20 years. Boy it hurts to be able to say that. It appears as though few if any of the routes to the right of the gully (to the right of the Diamond Wall) get much action either. We did hear a party over that way while we were at SYZ and later they walked past us but they didn't appear to be the sorts that would be interested in the harder routes of the cliff.
Have you ever done Stone Free? Is it worth another attempt to find it?
Those half ropes certainly do seem to be getting around.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2007 - 11:31am PT
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I don't think any of those routes get repeats. Of course this was the first time I've been to Woodchuck in about 20 years. Boy it hurts to be able to say that. It appears as though few if any of the routes to the right of the gully (to the right of the Diamond Wall) get much action either.
I just checked, we put those routes up in 1988. I haven't been back since then either, and now it's too far to walk. Funny how some good old routes are getting reclaimed by nature, while more popular ones become polished to white stripes. I wonder what the next 20 years of climbing fashion will bring.
Those half ropes certainly do seem to be getting around.
Doin' their job well.
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Kartch
climber
belgrade, mt
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Most of my rock climbing has been a little "light" lately. I did get out to ski the Great One in the Bridgers on June 15th. Beautiful day.
This guy showed up on June 23rd and has messed up some plans; but we'll let him hang around anyway. The origins of his existance are worthy of their own TR but I better keep that private.
Cheers
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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When we got to the top I could see across to Crag Y. I haven't been there in almost 20 years either. Ouch!
I'm not so sure the walk in to Woodchuck is all that bad or far. The trail seems pretty well traveled and if taken slow is not too difficult. It avoids that nasty slash left by the clear cut.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Kartch, that pic of your baby is priceless, Congrats!
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Kartch
climber
belgrade, mt
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Thanks Bluering, he's a keeper. And who knows maybe in 10-15 years he'll be my new climbing partner.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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YEAH! Nice Kartch!
Here's a random topo the brother drew from a recent route we did.....
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Kartch
climber
belgrade, mt
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Sweet topo TK; your brothers skills extend beyond climbing I see.
I think I saw you working that route a few weeks ago. I was across the river on the tower. Some some people working a route near there, one was wearing a bright yellow hat.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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haha
That was me in the yellow hat...
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emac
climber
New Hampshire
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A few photos from a couple of trips -- one recent and one not...
A month+ ago: First ascents outside of Cody...
And a while ago: First ascents at the New River Gorge...
Local flavor at the Gorge...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2007 - 02:29pm PT
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"Two views of the Gorge" -- great images both.
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crřtch
climber
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Chiloe -
Fun trip indeed but the most dramatic stories are about sudden onset Giardia symptoms.
It's a beautiful country with great mountains and extremely warm and friendly people. It's a bid odd when you think too hard about things, like the fact that the contents of our climbing packs were worth more on the black market than the average Bolivian's annual income
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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A little Tuolumne sunshine for you all.
Anyone recognize this guy? We had a nice chat while racking up.
So, the gent in the above pic warned us that our intended route was not so choice. Portentious, but we took off anyway. My partner had not climbed in a few years, so we stuck with some 5.8 meadows slabfest - I think we did the second ascent or something like that.
Oops, forgot my shoes. Oh well, these Sportiva approache shoes should be fine, right? It's ONLY 5.8 after all.
ANAM: Fall on rock, off route, exceeding (shoe's) abilities.
Here's the lucky nut that caught my 25 foot slider, seen after the fact. I had been trying to traverse back over to our route, was way out from a bolt, and remembered a recent thread about the value of marginal placements. When I placed it I thought it had maybe a 25% chance of holding. Figured it would slow me down.
All in all a great day in the meadows, followed by the 50th anniversary Half Dome gathering.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Did 'that old ghent' make it to the 1/2dome deal?
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Yup, Jaybro, and he said he went for Royal. Otherwise, the Valley is too much to handle in the summer (as it is for most sane people).
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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OWE! That's gonna' leave a mark.
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scuffy b
climber
Bates Creek
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Isn't that TM's dad in the pic?
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Wootles, I rode it down mostly on the balls of my feet, so the shoes got the worst of it. But my calf is sore as hell . . .
TM's dad? Why, that man above would be the FATHER of Tuolumne Meadows - one of them anyway.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2007 - 05:08pm PT
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crřtch, your people pics are as good as the mountains. And it looks like stellar memories, notwithstanding the fact that ...
the most dramatic stories are about sudden onset Giardia symptoms.
Those stories could be Too Much Information except, for the rest of us, how did two such medically-savvy travelers catch the bug?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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" that man above would be the FATHER of Tuolumne Meadows - one of them anyway. "
Nice assessment, It doesn't get any better thant That!
Good luck with the flesh, it will heal!
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L
climber
A Light Glider on a Rising Thermal
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Excellent TR, Wild Billy!
Blue skies and a bloodfest all in 5 easy shots! (And I loved those shoes you were sporting...just can't get good colors like that these days.)
Thanks for sharing your adventures in that most gorgeous of places.
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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A quick weekend trip up to Wild Iris. Cheers!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2007 - 08:05pm PT
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Wild Bill, just caught up with your TR -- nice variety of shots, scenic/old dude/the agony of de feet.
Actually my leg looked rather like that last week for a less heroic reason, I had misjudged the stability of a barnacle-encrusted tidepool step-stone.
Handsome B, liked your last shot especially for its sense of place.
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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Hey y'all....I loooove this thread. Chiloe, if I ever happen to meet you, I would like to buy you two of your favorite beers.
pardon me if I screw this up royally, my first attempt at posting shots from Flickr....(let's see if I can figure it out on my second try...photobucket was convenient, but I'll be darned if I will keep posting all my photos to two different sites)
I am currently nursing a chronic wrist problem and a blown finger tendon (on the same hand, at least) so ropes are out for me for a while; luckily I live within sight of the finest easy rock scrambling that humans have yet discovered. Here are a few pictures of my lady and I wandering up the Mega Classic North East Face of Middle Palisade last Friday....
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scuffy b
climber
Bates Creek
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as TM has often said: "I'm not TM. I saw that guy the other day.
He's really OLD."
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2007 - 12:25pm PT
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dmalloy:
Hey y'all....I loooove this thread. Chiloe, if I ever happen to meet you, I would like to buy you two of your favorite beers.
Why thanks, glad you're liking it. Favorite beer is a moving target but last night Sam Adams Summer Ale went pretty well with bratwurst off the grill. I hang out mostly NE but have been known to appear elsewhere.
I am currently nursing a chronic wrist problem and a blown finger tendon (on the same hand, at least) so ropes are out for me for a while; luckily I live within sight of the finest easy rock scrambling that humans have yet discovered. Here are a few pictures of my lady and I wandering up the Mega Classic North East Face of Middle Palisade last Friday....
Looks like a fine trip and perfect use of your rehabilitation time. One of the things I like most about Supertaco -- all these folks out there livin' the life, even as Life Itself goes on too. Threads like this can be a window....
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sunjule
climber
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Jul 12, 2007 - 06:24am PT
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Following Chiloe's advice, here's my first post on supertopo (i'm an old rc.com user, so excuse my lack of manners...).
First of all, i like this thead! It's a nice distraction seeing all the awesome photos while in the office.
Second, here is my contribution from the last w-end. We went on a usual 2-day dash to Switzerland. A bit far with 8h driving, but when there, it is FUN! Too many places to explore.
This time we went to the eastern bit of the Bernese Oberland, around Grimsel pass. Here, Swiss constructed the highest dams for their time (beginning of the 20th century) and now it's the electrical company that manages the whole area for tourist development. Kind of a fun concept.
Otherwise, we climbed on this wall called Eldorado, 500m granite slab, made me think of whitehorse in NE, but more orange-pink, chamonix-style granite. Protection mixed, trad in cracks, and bolts on slab. Still, with 2 bolts per pitch even the 5a i tried to lead proved cumbersome.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Jul 12, 2007 - 11:49am PT
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Cool, sunjule! If you could make the pics a *little* bit bigger next time, that'd be lovely. Anyway, sounds like a good weekend!
Cheers,
GO
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sunjule
climber
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Jul 12, 2007 - 01:18pm PT
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Who said bigger???
cheers to you GO!!!
btw, anyone gonna to be in canada (Calgary/Squamish during the first two weeks of september? looking for partners...
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sunjule
climber
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Jul 12, 2007 - 01:21pm PT
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:( not sure why it's not working - new to the game!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2007 - 01:58pm PT
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Hi J, welcome to the Taco. Where you could always post that Eiger TR and see if it causes the same ruckus here!
As for photo posting, see DR's thread on that topic. The easiest way IMHO is to open a free photobucket account, upload your pics there, and just copy the contents of that little box that says "IMG code", the lowest of four, below the thumbnail of the picture you want. Paste the "IMG code" info into your message and you're set.
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sunjule
climber
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so what's up - everyone out climbing or the contrary?
Here are a couple of pictures to show you what Europe's best granite looks like :)
Finally got to the mountains during last w-end, and not anywhere - an enchanting spot, paradise for beginners, but also for advanced masters of the art. Overshadowed by Chamonix, the great neighbour, this backside of the Mt Blanc chain hides some real treasures - like the Clocher du Portalet, one of the rare, vertical to overhanging pieces of granite on 200 meters of perfect stone. Maybe it is not an equal to El Cap, but given the environment, the glaciers and the wonderful free climbing lines, it's not far.
We tried our teeth on Esprit du Clocher, beautiful crack line on the East face, just around the corner from the North one harboring such beauties as Etat de Choc by Remy brothers. This wall has to be seen to be believed - an incredible bit of rock sticking out from the ground, perfectly vertical and enourmously steep. The route prooved to be a bit over our heads - we reached the top grumbling and spending the whole day (+ 3 hour approach) there - alone, as another party bailed on the South-East pillar route.
After a nice 'accueil' at Orny hut, we went up for the second objective - the Aiguilles Dorees. Even further out in the wild, demanding some snow skill at Saleina window, these 400m faces are another wonder of this place.
What awaited on the other side, was certainly worth coming for. Maybe less impressive and vertical (in the first half), Aiguille de la Varappe has gorgeous climbing. Less difficult, on golden granite, it was perfect if not for the wind that chilled us to the bone on the first pitch. Aiguille d'Argeniere looked condecendingly on our efforts, with only 2 other humans crossing the glacier up to Saleina through the day. Certainly the Chamonix crowds are not interested in this place.
Mixing a couple of routes (Eole et Je suis le vent) we got 2 short pitches from the top, to only descend tired and satisfied. What a stone! Have to come back as many routes are still there, especially on Aiguille Sans Nom further in the Dorees chain, as well as on Portalet.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2007 - 12:16pm PT
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That's a side of the range I haven't heard much about, but the rock looks just as good as Cham -- maybe better, if there's less fixed gear and traffic. Why is it "overlooked"?
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sunjule
climber
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It is an area known mostly for beginner alpinists, with straightforward glaciers and easy summits. However to reach the first hut there is 2-3 hour approach, and another 1-2 hr to get to the routes. Cham offers easier access with less up-hill walking if you will and suffers from its popularity and crowds. As for this 'backcountry' you can often be alone on the wall on summer w-ends - granite is top-notch, and not that many bolts around either. Ok, i'll stop cause i don't really want to see more people there!
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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A few shots from cragging in the Cascades with my son a couple weeks ago:
The Mule, a 5 pitch 10a at the base of the North Face of Big Four.
Dreamer, a 10 pitch 5.9 in the Darrington area.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Julia, sounds great! Would love to get out there sometime and check out all those lovely cracks you seem to have there.
My weekend had no climbing, but was an adventure, nevertheless.
Allison:
and I moved into a nice 2 bedroom apartment. Very excited about it. The physical crux is done (I love table-saws), but there's a long endurance climb ahead before we reach the top. It's our biggest adventure together so far, and we're both enjoying the challenge.
GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2007 - 12:57pm PT
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Off White, your crags have real atmosphere.
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sunjule
climber
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Gabe - good luck, you deserve it!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2007 - 12:28pm PT
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Julia, you still thinking about a big move? To Canada with its own alpine flavor?
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sunjule
climber
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Aug 10, 2007 - 06:05am PT
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Going there in September for a month to sample what all the hassle is about :). Btw if anyone is around Canadian west coast and wants to climb in september - let me know!
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sunjule
climber
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Aug 10, 2007 - 06:05am PT
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Ups, double posts happen here too :
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Aug 10, 2007 - 09:54am PT
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Sorry, already have fall trip out west planned (RR). Definitely need to get to Squamish one of these years, though.
Good luck to you as well, J!
GO
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Aug 10, 2007 - 10:58am PT
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careful with that table saw!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2007 - 09:51am PT
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sunjule:
Going there in September for a month to sample what all the hassle is about :). Btw if anyone is around Canadian west coast and wants to climb in september - let me know!
Rumor has it there are a few Canadians on the Topo. They don't yet know what a legend you are, however. By way of introducing you I was looking around for the_pirate's fine early-years Ukranian Power action/portrait, or that oddly racy post-bivy photo GO posted awhile back. Both more engaging and probably embarassing than the standard alpine shot, but fortunately I haven't located them yet.
And since this is the Random TRs thread, I'll toss in a name-this-route shot for the Gunkies, from yesterday. Very popular and recognizable fun-pitch, with peace-loving although defensive wildlife at the base.
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sunjule
climber
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:43pm PT
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larry, don't know why, but i also think it's a good thing you didn't really find those pics...
here is a picture from my w-end (not fair to play 'name that route i guess...)
oh, and this is from the day afterwards, same place, the other side of the valley :)
and that's the view from the top - to make it easier to at least recognize the valley!
...
ps - still waiting for the lurking canadians!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Aug 14, 2007 - 02:08pm PT
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Larry, that's a gorgeous photo of that copperhead! As for the pics of Julia, I could post them for you, but if she doesn't want 'em online, that's that, so far as I'm concerned.
No climbing for me this last weekend. Surfing. Something I suck at even more than climbing. Love it, too, though!
Julia - why all the tiny pics? I think those are very nice photos, but hard to tell!
GO
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sunjule
climber
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Aug 15, 2007 - 03:37am PT
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here you go - just for GO :)
and
and
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2007 - 08:52am PT
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Much better!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Aug 15, 2007 - 09:19am PT
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Gorgeous, thanks!
Hey, in that first pic, how is that snow on the far peak staying attached? It looks like it's just kinda sitting there thumbing its nose at gravity.
GO
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Aug 15, 2007 - 11:30am PT
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Well, not that difficult (the 2 first), Sunjule.
First picture is from Aig. du Chardonnet towards Aig. Verte. The two snow ramps / couloirs are Couturier (left) and Codier (rigth). Mont Blanc and the "Camel Ridge" (Bosse du Dromedaire) is seen in the background.
Second is Chardonnet's north ridge (AD or something).
Last one looks nice and juggy (and tilted). But where, hm, I don't know.
Michael
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sunjule
climber
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Aug 16, 2007 - 04:14am PT
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GO - those are hanging glaciers on Aiguille Verte. How they manage to exist - i never got the physics of it all, there is probably some critical mass idea or maybe the lower part fell off at some point - not sure.
Micheal - you are right, pics taken from Migot route up Chardonnay and the Chardonnay summit. Last pic much harder, it's from the other side of the valley - Aiguilles Rouges, a very nice route by Pallandre up Brevent (not alpine at all, you finish on telepherique and go down with it happily to food and beer).
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sunjule
climber
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Aug 20, 2007 - 07:59am PT
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what about another 'what's that route' game? here is the 5th pitch
and here the 7th - as good a crack climbing as it gets on this side of the ocean :)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2007 - 07:35am PT
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Not enough Alpine climbers on the taco to recognize those cracks? I'm sure Michael knows, though.
Beautiful September-like weather here in NH this morning. Heading up to North Conway soon.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Aug 21, 2007 - 10:44am PT
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A long way in...
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Richard
climber
Bend, OR.
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Aug 21, 2007 - 11:56am PT
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somewhere in s.e. Oregon
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Ricks
Trad climber
Mullica Hill, NJ
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Aug 21, 2007 - 12:57pm PT
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There are some great photos here, but Handsome B your shots are simply awesome. I hope your a pro photographer 'cause that's some quality work.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2007 - 08:06pm PT
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There are some great photos here, but Handsome B your shots are simply awesome.
I agree, HB's shots are excellent. Hope we see many more.
Love the whole variety of these random TRs, though. On this page alone, just five posts old, we've already got the Alps, High Sierra and SE Oregon.
Climbers out there livin' the life.
To keep the geographic mix going, a couple of one-handed snapshots from Cathedral Ledge last week:
and Humphrey's Ledge today:
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Aug 21, 2007 - 08:39pm PT
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OK, off topic but still fun in my eyes, been so hot and the DZ is so close......
out the door
friends playin near the deck
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2008 - 08:04pm PT
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So Pennsylenvy was visiting from Flagstaff and wanted to check out some New Hampshire granite.
He mentioned that he'd been climbing steep routes with the Doctor, but that slabs made him slightly nervous.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2008 - 08:56pm PT
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The big left-to-right arch in the photo defines the very popular Standard Route, 5.5.
I had in mind that Pennsylenvy and I should climb something different, Tidal Wave or
Black Jade, if only I could recall where they went. Somwhere up the streaks straight
above the arch, but the devil is in the details.
At least the start was obvious, break through the arch a few hundred feet up.
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cowpoke
climber
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Jun 24, 2008 - 09:57pm PT
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Glad you got out, Chiloe! We arrived in Colorful Colorado on Friday. We're headed to Wyoming in a couple days, but thought I'd share a few random "thus far" notes and pics.
We started the trip at Red Rocks, seeing Alison Krauss and Robert Plant. I can never get over how amazing the venue and views are there.
Then, headed to the Splatte for family camping, hiking, and a bit of climbing. We hadn't been back to the Splatte in 14 years...pre-fire. The burn damage was overwhelming to see, but the aspens and columbine are making a comeback.
Hiking up to Turkey Rocks.
And, Tessa at Turkey Perch on what was Kelly's first trad lead about 15 years ago.
And, a few more scenery shots from hiking...that pikes peak granite!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2008 - 10:05pm PT
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Red Rocks CO, very cool. I loved that place as a teenager, did some scary scrambles there.
Illegal as hell.
Way to go, Tessa. Y'all heading for the Voo?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 24, 2008 - 10:15pm PT
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I'm confused, i thought this pirate was Tessa?
clarity edit - Salad's fam, not mine.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2008 - 10:16pm PT
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Glad you got out, Chiloe!
See, I thought that Pennsylenvy and I were climbing Black Jade, but it turned out I was
mistaken about exactly where that went. Now that I know better, you and I should fire
it later this summer.
Instead, P led Tidal Wave with bad beta. Here he's warming up on runout 5.8.
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cowpoke
climber
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Jun 24, 2008 - 11:11pm PT
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Mungeclimber, very cool that Salad's daughter's name is Tessa too -- seven years ago we rarely heard the name, but have met a few since.
here is our older (10) daughter, Sammy, on the same route (she has been psyched to 2nd climbs lately if it involves cleaning, but in this pic you can see a green cam getting away from her)
yep, Chiloe, hoping for a couple days at the voo...
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cowpoke
climber
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a Colo-Wyo family vacation, continued
Highlights included horseback riding, mountain biking, hiking, swimming, fishing, and acoustic jams as well as trips to the zoo, two amusement parks, Red Rocks, and a triple-A baseball game (complete with 4th fireworks)…oh yeah, and climbing.
I was able to climb with 6 different family members:
1 wife
2 daughters
1 dad
1 sister-in-law
1 fiancé of sister-in-law
Forgot the camera at the Voo, so Vince valiantly took shots with his camera phone (I tried to chop in quality to little avail). This was the “best” shot of the bunch…me on the 1st pitch of Grand Traverse.
At Lumpy, I got out for a very fun early morning with my dad. This was just his 3rd time climbing, and the first time in 10 years ago.
Here he is strapping on the helmet and working on Grack Crack.
That morning, also got to try Rooster Tail
and Yosemite Crack.
And, some random shots for this random tr:
A fresh trout dinner,
a cactus flower,
and another beautiful Colorado sunset.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2008 - 07:32pm PT
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Neat stuff, Eric. Loved the fish and 3-generation TR. Your dad looks oddly familiar!
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LX
climber
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Sol & I - Fun times at Penstemon Dome, 7/3/08.
P3
P4
P5
topo
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