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Messages 1 - 117 of total 117 in this topic
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Original Post - May 7, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
What have you been up to? Any ordinary climbs that were good fun but don't deserve their own thread?

First visit of the season to Cathedral Ledge this afternoon, perfect pre-summer weather. Retaliation and Bird's Nest on the menu.


TradIsGood

Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
May 7, 2007 - 08:13pm PT
Have a new partner.

This weekend we nearly killed somebody, see the Rock! thread.

But otherwise enjoyed Horseman, but waited too long for it, in retrospect. Wrist starts with a short little crack, has a nice layback dihedral section. Then P2 offers a beutiful exposed hand traverse under a roof, with a roof below the feet, and a step around the arete onto a face. Built one of the most complex anchors I have used to remain in contact with second through P2 crux, and turning P2 into two pitches. Second was very happy I did. It might not have turned out well otherwise.

Edit: The first time I saw Wrist I muscled through P1 crux, sweating. And the second crux had me completely baffled. Only when I was running out of forearms did I figure out how to handle it. I did not see my first go through it because of where he set belay on P1 and he did not short-pitch it for me. My new partner is about the same experience level outdoors as I was then, but stronger than I was. I told her how to do the crux, but while doing it, I decided that maybe it might be a good idea to stay where I could see her.

I would describe Easy Keyhole as the "most technical 5.2 in the Gunks". Did that as we were leaving just for fun. Features some weird stemming, balancy friction moves just to get started. At least that is what I thought. Was trying to figure out why I was only getting rope about 3 inches at a time while belaying. My partner demonstrated the alternative when we got back down. Apparently one can also squeeze into a chimney and inch-worm up. I guess it is just not that technical! :-)
WBraun

climber
May 7, 2007 - 08:16pm PT
Chiloe

Wow nice looking routes, I like those.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2007 - 08:45pm PT
Yes, yes, what's that hand crack jobber on the right?
'Looks like the kinda thing one might find jammy.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 7, 2007 - 08:47pm PT
A climb so cool, that lichen refrained from growing near it.
TradIsGood

Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
May 7, 2007 - 09:06pm PT
Jaybro, is that an original?

Can't wait to use that one!
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
May 7, 2007 - 09:19pm PT
Left climb Recluse 5.10 hard? Both Henry Barber FFA's. I love Cathedral. Dude you got some fine pics.
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
May 7, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
Two weeks ago my wife and I took her mother on a cruise. The ship had a climbing wall, but you had to wear a helmet and they used bod harnesses, enough said. The real climbing came in Cozumel. We took a cooking class {highlight of the trip}, at some resort and after the cooking class we had an open bar and food for the rest of the day. Just offshore about 100yrds. they had this climbing/slide iceberg float. What a blast, after a couple of margs and beers the real fun was just starting.



Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
May 7, 2007 - 10:12pm PT
A random TR. Sorry about the pictures, none are very good and don't capture the fun of the place. So what's the point? Dunno.

Six of us descended on Christmas Tree Pass at the end of April.


We caught a break with the weather, it was super for all four days of our stay. And the snakes weren't out yet.

The first day we replaced the bolts on Old School, a 5.7 slab on RCS Dome. I got to lead it, it's a long way to the first bolt, of course.

The second day Cliff and Nan showed up. Cliff had never been out to the Pass, so we put him on The Streaker, a 5.10a on H&R Block. This is not the crux.


Here's the belay.


MJ, Big Daddy and I swapped leads on the three long pitches of Prime Interest, 5.9, which was next door. We had replaced the old bolts on this route last year. We had a hoot climbing it. It's a little run out, but we all felt solid. JohnX asked if, while leading, we looked down at the bolt below us. No way. As Big Daddy said, "There's nothing for us down there but death and dismemberment."

MJ shocked us when she volunteered to lead the third pitch. I was happy to just relax and follow.


The Riverside Casino buffet tasted particularly good that night.

The third day we went to the excellent Dali Dome, home of Wilkinson Sword, which is just about as cool a climb as there is in the southwest. No kidding. It's a two pitch 5.7. The second pitch follows the flake system. Pull down, not out! When it's windy, that flake sings.


The last day MJ, Big Daddy and I went back to Dali Dome to try MC1. It's a nice, very sustained 5.8 that I had followed but never led. The second bolt is an old 1/4"er with a Leeper hanger. It's also a spinner. It's still good to hold a slider though, as I proved four times. Sometimes stubborness is not a good quality. MJ showed me how it's done, by going left of the bolt. Here she is at the crux.


After this move, it was fifty feet to the next bolt. Gulp.

This route is starting to clean up some. It didn't have the corn flakes of years past.

On the next trip in November, we're going to replace the bolts on a couple of climbs on Dali Dome: Surreal Peel, 5.10a, and Tough Animals, 5.9. Maybe someone will climb these again. We actually found some evidence of other climbers. Just remember kids: "Everybody climbs better at the Pass."
Crimpergirl

Social climber
Hell on earth wondering what I did to deserve it
May 7, 2007 - 10:24pm PT
No photos. Sorry. Everyone says I should get out and meet new folks in this ghost town. So, tonight a colleague and I went to a newish place in town that is a giant room filled with trampolines. I met four new people. All women.

We jumped and ran on those things for an hour. It was an aerobics-trampoline class. The first several jumps I was certain my heart was going to rip right off the "heart-stalk" and I'd drop dead immediately. I kept on anyway. It was fun going SO high!! The walls are at a 45 degree with trampoline surface so one can run at them and bounce off. SUPER fun. We'll go again soon and I'll try and take the camera.

Check it out: http://www.skyzonesports.com/

L

climber
NoName City and It Don't Look Pretty
May 7, 2007 - 10:40pm PT
Chiloe--That second photo rocks, Dooood! What an awesome place.


Gary--Better crappy photos than none at all...and yours were not bad!



Crimpie--Boing...Boing...Boing! A tramp gym in St. Louie??? Where???
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2007 - 11:51pm PT
The day Shelley blew her shoulder out on Scorpion, T Meadows,
Attire strictly defined by the Flash Dance era:

from an 8X11 I have which Greg Epperson produced


Corner of Madness, Meteora Greece, sans cowboy hat,
But my Dan Post pointy toed ridin' boots made the trip:




Marshall

climber
bay area
May 8, 2007 - 12:22am PT
Nice shots everybody! Tarbuster, classic T Meadows lycra shot. Chiloe, that place looks great!

Hit Utah with the special lady friend a couple weeks ago.

Stormy over IC/Canyonlands:


The base of Fine Jade at 9am on a Tuesday. Number being help up represents place in line.


This guy Nate hucking off Castleton. Amazing...



The old lady on Fine Jade, finally:


Checked this out on the drive home. You folks been down there?

Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 8, 2007 - 02:10am PT
Havasupai?

went down there once, very fun. seemed like stacks of climbing potential.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 07:26am PT
Christmas Tree Pass, cruise ships and iceberg slides, trampoline fun, climbing Fine Jade and jumping off Castleton, Meteora with no cowboy hat ... a day in the life of Supertopo. Let's see more!


Back on Cathedral, yeah those cracks were as fun as they look. On Retaliation you've got this positive diagonal layback that goes on and on, with much of the entertainment coming from having to place protection along the way. Bird's Nest gives you straight-on finger locks one after another. Its starting footholds have become nicely polished through the years.

Here's another view of Eric on the final section of Bird's Nest. The BN photos by the way shot by a kindly stranger, and the Retaliation one by Eric; I take no photog credit here.

Crimpergirl

Social climber
Hell on earth wondering what I did to deserve it
May 8, 2007 - 09:18am PT
The trampoline gym is in Chesterfield - west county area. Um, I feel a little worked today!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 10:24am PT
For some reason this reminds me of a short-lived TV show that used to feature a cheerful "girls on trampolines" segment at the end. Not that I watched.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
May 8, 2007 - 12:15pm PT
Went out and got some shots of the brother on this route he's been working on. He's so close it's painful. Still over my head though....



Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
May 8, 2007 - 04:19pm PT
Y'know, that looks kinda steep. That iceberg thingy has a better landing, though.
snakefoot

climber
cali
May 9, 2007 - 01:21pm PT
from the diving board


Clark from the top of HD

south face of HD

Watkins
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2007 - 01:56pm PT
Was the Snake Dike a part of this trip?

You don't often see photos that close up to the S face of Half Dome -- the arch looks pretty awkward. I vaguely recall either Warren or Gallen saying that exiting the top of the arch was the most strenuous aid pitch he'd done.
snakefoot

climber
cali
May 9, 2007 - 02:33pm PT
yes chiloe,

couple of fellas freein some stuff back there right now also...such a wild and untouched area.. always wanted to scope it out


Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2007 - 02:45pm PT
So are you left-coast again now? North Conway season seems to have started for me finally, send a note if you happen to be around.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
May 10, 2007 - 03:25pm PT
Rallied with a couple a fellas to Butte yesterday for an after work bouldrin' session with the Hutch.









After a brief warm-up we went into 'Vedauwoo training mode' on this OW that I previously eyed out(and got bouted on)











One of the funkier problems I've ever done.....


Then on to a couple others....







Anyone else getting out this mid-week? Weekend plans?

Cheers,

Tom




Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 10, 2007 - 04:12pm PT
I want to puke, just seeing the pictures, it looks, That, good.

Lesson plans and forams, here, but on to Gary's wide, tonight.
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
May 10, 2007 - 04:29pm PT
Yeah, TK, that upside-down, no-hands, sit-start (head-start?) has to have one of the coolest starting moves that I've have ever done.

edit: Jaybro, I don't want to rub it in, but it was, That, good!
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
May 10, 2007 - 07:44pm PT
I'm training for two new and exciting sports.

Sitting, and
making coffee.

I'm committed to getting very good at both.
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
May 10, 2007 - 10:03pm PT
You will not go unrewarded, Raydog.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
May 10, 2007 - 10:15pm PT
my commitment
is unwavering...
goatboy smellz

climber
colorado
May 10, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
Ray, you have mastered the ultimate sit-start.
snakefoot

climber
cali
May 11, 2007 - 06:45pm PT
chiloe,

just a brief visit out west, then hanging in DC for some education crap till june, will get in touch when i get back to CT, will post some random shots later also
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 11, 2007 - 06:55pm PT
"Jaybro, I don't want to rub it in, but it was, That, good! "

Moj, I could tell, I phrased it ironically, but meant it sincerely!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2007 - 07:31pm PT
Snakefoot, send a note when you're back around. Next 5 months are the best time in the Whites for fairweather lazy craggers like me.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2007 - 04:06pm PT
Tarbuster, I just sent you an e-mail that bounced. Gist of it is I *will* be back in town that week, send me a note.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
May 21, 2007 - 05:08pm PT
A few shots from over the weekend...


Stigmata





Bad Access


Cheers
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2007 - 08:31pm PT
Bluebird skies above white granite in North Conway today. Snakefoot onsights Dunn's classic Loose Lips.

GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
May 29, 2007 - 09:10pm PT
Wife and I climbed Venutian Blind this weekend.
Bigger deal than the bokks make it seem. The Super Topo was a bit disappointing (A First!).

More than a great trip with my favorite partner... Her first High Sierra Climb.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 2, 2007 - 02:30am PT
Some climbs of May, 2007

Lake Tenya and Tenya Peak, first open day 2007

Jaybro on West Country belay below the corner

Kicking back on South Crack top of pitch 2

Gary moving across the skyline on Great White Book on our third pitch (but the last pitch of the route)

Duke- at the oak tree at the end of the traverse beyond the penji, Royal Arches

Dudleya cymosa, Royal Arches
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2007 - 09:20pm PT
Summer climbing weather was fine as it gets in New Hampshire this weekend.

GOclimb and I got out to the South Buttress for a trip up Lost Souls.
P1 has good rock but slightly funky gear, could be why many folks skip it.

GO puzzles up the crux face moves on P2.

Starting the exposed arete on P3.

P4 keeps the fun going.
crøtch

climber
Jul 1, 2007 - 10:24pm PT
Huayna Potosi, Bolivia in May.







ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Jul 1, 2007 - 10:51pm PT
awesome.....keep em comin
wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jul 1, 2007 - 11:25pm PT
Emac givin' it to Screaming Yellow Zonkers on a gorgeous Jun 30th.


Then we went looking for a supposed classic but couldn't find it in the jungle of undergrowth. Instead we stumbled on this little thing.

We kind of groveled to the top but it was worth it.

Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jul 2, 2007 - 12:24am PT
cool stuff everyone - my life is pretty boring by comparison

Monday June 4th 2am Arapahoe Pass trail - headed up

it started raining so I bivied at 3:30 am in some trees and waited to see what the weather would do

the weather closed in so I split
Neva Peak at about 5:30am

Monday June 11th
The trail to Diamond lake
killer weather

my camp on the bench above Diamond lake
like sleeping on a thick mattress of Astroturf - no bugs either

South East face of Jasper - all routes looking good and fat

the snow pack in the trees - temps at night 40 degrees cooler than in Boulder

like I said, pretty boring...



aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Jul 2, 2007 - 03:58am PT
Beauty Ray ***
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2007 - 08:19am PT
crøtch, your SA trip must have been a grand adventure. Those photos deserve to be larger. Got stories?


wootles, your pictures look just like mine except 20 degrees steeper. Camera tricks, eh? Good to know some folks are still climbing those pre-sport-area desperates.


Raydog, alpine starts and timberline in the Indian Peaks are worth sharing even when the weather closes down. I got nostalgic seeing the shot of Mt. Neva.

Thanks, all!
wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jul 2, 2007 - 08:35am PT
Emac may have been using some photo tricks but the route really was pretty steep. It will most likely never get repeated as it was quite a scramble to get to it. We were trying to find Stone Free but everything in there was so overgrown we couldn't find where it starts. We kept scrambling around trying to get a better look and eventually found two really nice cracks. The one we climbed was the less dirty of the two and was actually pretty decent. Topped out just right of that nasty gully that splits the cliff.
It was a fantastic day weather wise and Screaming Yellow Zonkers went down without too much of a fight, no on sight but still a good one to tick off.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2007 - 08:57am PT
Heh, I was just kidding about photo tricks -- your horizon is dead level. The leading looks a little serious, no?

Does anyone ever repeat China or Neuromancer?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2007 - 09:00am PT
And BTW I thought of doing a photo-collage with those distinctive yellow-and-red 8.4s -- they've traveled a bit now, still look almost new.
wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jul 2, 2007 - 09:18am PT
I don't think any of those routes get repeats. Of course this was the first time I've been to Woodchuck in about 20 years. Boy it hurts to be able to say that. It appears as though few if any of the routes to the right of the gully (to the right of the Diamond Wall) get much action either. We did hear a party over that way while we were at SYZ and later they walked past us but they didn't appear to be the sorts that would be interested in the harder routes of the cliff.
Have you ever done Stone Free? Is it worth another attempt to find it?
Those half ropes certainly do seem to be getting around.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2007 - 11:31am PT
I don't think any of those routes get repeats. Of course this was the first time I've been to Woodchuck in about 20 years. Boy it hurts to be able to say that. It appears as though few if any of the routes to the right of the gully (to the right of the Diamond Wall) get much action either.

I just checked, we put those routes up in 1988. I haven't been back since then either, and now it's too far to walk. Funny how some good old routes are getting reclaimed by nature, while more popular ones become polished to white stripes. I wonder what the next 20 years of climbing fashion will bring.


Those half ropes certainly do seem to be getting around.

Doin' their job well.

Kartch

climber
belgrade, mt
Jul 2, 2007 - 12:17pm PT
Most of my rock climbing has been a little "light" lately. I did get out to ski the Great One in the Bridgers on June 15th. Beautiful day.


This guy showed up on June 23rd and has messed up some plans; but we'll let him hang around anyway. The origins of his existance are worthy of their own TR but I better keep that private.


Cheers
wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jul 2, 2007 - 12:23pm PT
When we got to the top I could see across to Crag Y. I haven't been there in almost 20 years either. Ouch!

I'm not so sure the walk in to Woodchuck is all that bad or far. The trail seems pretty well traveled and if taken slow is not too difficult. It avoids that nasty slash left by the clear cut.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jul 2, 2007 - 12:28pm PT
Kartch, that pic of your baby is priceless, Congrats!
Kartch

climber
belgrade, mt
Jul 2, 2007 - 01:01pm PT
Thanks Bluering, he's a keeper. And who knows maybe in 10-15 years he'll be my new climbing partner.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Jul 2, 2007 - 01:03pm PT
YEAH! Nice Kartch!

Here's a random topo the brother drew from a recent route we did.....

Kartch

climber
belgrade, mt
Jul 2, 2007 - 01:07pm PT
Sweet topo TK; your brothers skills extend beyond climbing I see.
I think I saw you working that route a few weeks ago. I was across the river on the tower. Some some people working a route near there, one was wearing a bright yellow hat.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Jul 2, 2007 - 01:20pm PT
haha

That was me in the yellow hat...
emac

climber
New Hampshire
Jul 2, 2007 - 02:21pm PT
A few photos from a couple of trips -- one recent and one not...

A month+ ago: First ascents outside of Cody...

And a while ago: First ascents at the New River Gorge...

Local flavor at the Gorge...
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2007 - 02:29pm PT
"Two views of the Gorge" -- great images both.
crøtch

climber
Jul 2, 2007 - 08:49pm PT
Chiloe -

Fun trip indeed but the most dramatic stories are about sudden onset Giardia symptoms.

It's a beautiful country with great mountains and extremely warm and friendly people. It's a bid odd when you think too hard about things, like the fact that the contents of our climbing packs were worth more on the black market than the average Bolivian's annual income






Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Jul 3, 2007 - 01:46am PT
A little Tuolumne sunshine for you all.


Anyone recognize this guy? We had a nice chat while racking up.


So, the gent in the above pic warned us that our intended route was not so choice. Portentious, but we took off anyway. My partner had not climbed in a few years, so we stuck with some 5.8 meadows slabfest - I think we did the second ascent or something like that.


Oops, forgot my shoes. Oh well, these Sportiva approache shoes should be fine, right? It's ONLY 5.8 after all.


ANAM: Fall on rock, off route, exceeding (shoe's) abilities.


Here's the lucky nut that caught my 25 foot slider, seen after the fact. I had been trying to traverse back over to our route, was way out from a bolt, and remembered a recent thread about the value of marginal placements. When I placed it I thought it had maybe a 25% chance of holding. Figured it would slow me down.


All in all a great day in the meadows, followed by the 50th anniversary Half Dome gathering.

Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 3, 2007 - 01:55am PT
Did 'that old ghent' make it to the 1/2dome deal?
Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Jul 3, 2007 - 01:56am PT
Yup, Jaybro, and he said he went for Royal. Otherwise, the Valley is too much to handle in the summer (as it is for most sane people).
wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jul 3, 2007 - 07:50am PT
OWE! That's gonna' leave a mark.
scuffy b

climber
Bates Creek
Jul 3, 2007 - 11:27am PT
Isn't that TM's dad in the pic?
Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Jul 3, 2007 - 11:54am PT
Wootles, I rode it down mostly on the balls of my feet, so the shoes got the worst of it. But my calf is sore as hell . . .

TM's dad? Why, that man above would be the FATHER of Tuolumne Meadows - one of them anyway.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2007 - 05:08pm PT
crøtch, your people pics are as good as the mountains. And it looks like stellar memories, notwithstanding the fact that ...
the most dramatic stories are about sudden onset Giardia symptoms.

Those stories could be Too Much Information except, for the rest of us, how did two such medically-savvy travelers catch the bug?
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 3, 2007 - 05:31pm PT
" that man above would be the FATHER of Tuolumne Meadows - one of them anyway. "

Nice assessment, It doesn't get any better thant That!

Good luck with the flesh, it will heal!
L

climber
A Light Glider on a Rising Thermal
Jul 3, 2007 - 05:38pm PT
Excellent TR, Wild Billy!

Blue skies and a bloodfest all in 5 easy shots! (And I loved those shoes you were sporting...just can't get good colors like that these days.)

Thanks for sharing your adventures in that most gorgeous of places.

handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Jul 3, 2007 - 05:51pm PT
A quick weekend trip up to Wild Iris. Cheers!






Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2007 - 08:05pm PT
Wild Bill, just caught up with your TR -- nice variety of shots, scenic/old dude/the agony of de feet.

Actually my leg looked rather like that last week for a less heroic reason, I had misjudged the stability of a barnacle-encrusted tidepool step-stone.


Handsome B, liked your last shot especially for its sense of place.
Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Jul 3, 2007 - 09:13pm PT
Thanks L, where you been? Those shoes are a few years old, thus the colors. They sat unused for a few years, and I just pulled them out last week and BURNED RUBBER! Figure I'll be sending 'em off to Locker soon:




Chiloe, thanks. That old trad dad pictured above is TM Herbert. We chuckled about our first meeting twenty years ago http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=289339&msg=289339#msg289339
dmalloy

Trad climber
eastside
Jul 4, 2007 - 01:24am PT
Hey y'all....I loooove this thread. Chiloe, if I ever happen to meet you, I would like to buy you two of your favorite beers.

pardon me if I screw this up royally, my first attempt at posting shots from Flickr....(let's see if I can figure it out on my second try...photobucket was convenient, but I'll be darned if I will keep posting all my photos to two different sites)

I am currently nursing a chronic wrist problem and a blown finger tendon (on the same hand, at least) so ropes are out for me for a while; luckily I live within sight of the finest easy rock scrambling that humans have yet discovered. Here are a few pictures of my lady and I wandering up the Mega Classic North East Face of Middle Palisade last Friday....





scuffy b

climber
Bates Creek
Jul 5, 2007 - 11:33am PT
as TM has often said: "I'm not TM. I saw that guy the other day.
He's really OLD."
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2007 - 12:25pm PT
dmalloy:
Hey y'all....I loooove this thread. Chiloe, if I ever happen to meet you, I would like to buy you two of your favorite beers.

Why thanks, glad you're liking it. Favorite beer is a moving target but last night Sam Adams Summer Ale went pretty well with bratwurst off the grill. I hang out mostly NE but have been known to appear elsewhere.


I am currently nursing a chronic wrist problem and a blown finger tendon (on the same hand, at least) so ropes are out for me for a while; luckily I live within sight of the finest easy rock scrambling that humans have yet discovered. Here are a few pictures of my lady and I wandering up the Mega Classic North East Face of Middle Palisade last Friday....

Looks like a fine trip and perfect use of your rehabilitation time. One of the things I like most about Supertaco -- all these folks out there livin' the life, even as Life Itself goes on too. Threads like this can be a window....
sunjule

climber
Jul 12, 2007 - 06:24am PT
Following Chiloe's advice, here's my first post on supertopo (i'm an old rc.com user, so excuse my lack of manners...).

First of all, i like this thead! It's a nice distraction seeing all the awesome photos while in the office.

Second, here is my contribution from the last w-end. We went on a usual 2-day dash to Switzerland. A bit far with 8h driving, but when there, it is FUN! Too many places to explore.

This time we went to the eastern bit of the Bernese Oberland, around Grimsel pass. Here, Swiss constructed the highest dams for their time (beginning of the 20th century) and now it's the electrical company that manages the whole area for tourist development. Kind of a fun concept.


Otherwise, we climbed on this wall called Eldorado, 500m granite slab, made me think of whitehorse in NE, but more orange-pink, chamonix-style granite. Protection mixed, trad in cracks, and bolts on slab. Still, with 2 bolts per pitch even the 5a i tried to lead proved cumbersome.

GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Jul 12, 2007 - 11:49am PT
Cool, sunjule! If you could make the pics a *little* bit bigger next time, that'd be lovely. Anyway, sounds like a good weekend!

Cheers,

GO
sunjule

climber
Jul 12, 2007 - 01:18pm PT
Who said bigger???


cheers to you GO!!!

btw, anyone gonna to be in canada (Calgary/Squamish during the first two weeks of september? looking for partners...
sunjule

climber
Jul 12, 2007 - 01:21pm PT
:( not sure why it's not working - new to the game!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2007 - 01:58pm PT
Hi J, welcome to the Taco. Where you could always post that Eiger TR and see if it causes the same ruckus here!

As for photo posting, see DR's thread on that topic. The easiest way IMHO is to open a free photobucket account, upload your pics there, and just copy the contents of that little box that says "IMG code", the lowest of four, below the thumbnail of the picture you want. Paste the "IMG code" info into your message and you're set.
sunjule

climber
Aug 2, 2007 - 10:28am PT
so what's up - everyone out climbing or the contrary?

Here are a couple of pictures to show you what Europe's best granite looks like :)

Finally got to the mountains during last w-end, and not anywhere - an enchanting spot, paradise for beginners, but also for advanced masters of the art. Overshadowed by Chamonix, the great neighbour, this backside of the Mt Blanc chain hides some real treasures - like the Clocher du Portalet, one of the rare, vertical to overhanging pieces of granite on 200 meters of perfect stone. Maybe it is not an equal to El Cap, but given the environment, the glaciers and the wonderful free climbing lines, it's not far.


We tried our teeth on Esprit du Clocher, beautiful crack line on the East face, just around the corner from the North one harboring such beauties as Etat de Choc by Remy brothers. This wall has to be seen to be believed - an incredible bit of rock sticking out from the ground, perfectly vertical and enourmously steep. The route prooved to be a bit over our heads - we reached the top grumbling and spending the whole day (+ 3 hour approach) there - alone, as another party bailed on the South-East pillar route.

After a nice 'accueil' at Orny hut, we went up for the second objective - the Aiguilles Dorees. Even further out in the wild, demanding some snow skill at Saleina window, these 400m faces are another wonder of this place.

What awaited on the other side, was certainly worth coming for. Maybe less impressive and vertical (in the first half), Aiguille de la Varappe has gorgeous climbing. Less difficult, on golden granite, it was perfect if not for the wind that chilled us to the bone on the first pitch. Aiguille d'Argeniere looked condecendingly on our efforts, with only 2 other humans crossing the glacier up to Saleina through the day. Certainly the Chamonix crowds are not interested in this place.


Mixing a couple of routes (Eole et Je suis le vent) we got 2 short pitches from the top, to only descend tired and satisfied. What a stone! Have to come back as many routes are still there, especially on Aiguille Sans Nom further in the Dorees chain, as well as on Portalet.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2007 - 12:16pm PT
That's a side of the range I haven't heard much about, but the rock looks just as good as Cham -- maybe better, if there's less fixed gear and traffic. Why is it "overlooked"?
sunjule

climber
Aug 6, 2007 - 09:29am PT
It is an area known mostly for beginner alpinists, with straightforward glaciers and easy summits. However to reach the first hut there is 2-3 hour approach, and another 1-2 hr to get to the routes. Cham offers easier access with less up-hill walking if you will and suffers from its popularity and crowds. As for this 'backcountry' you can often be alone on the wall on summer w-ends - granite is top-notch, and not that many bolts around either. Ok, i'll stop cause i don't really want to see more people there!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Aug 6, 2007 - 11:43am PT
A few shots from cragging in the Cascades with my son a couple weeks ago:

The Mule, a 5 pitch 10a at the base of the North Face of Big Four.

Dreamer, a 10 pitch 5.9 in the Darrington area.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Aug 6, 2007 - 11:59am PT
Julia, sounds great! Would love to get out there sometime and check out all those lovely cracks you seem to have there.

My weekend had no climbing, but was an adventure, nevertheless.

Allison:

and I moved into a nice 2 bedroom apartment. Very excited about it. The physical crux is done (I love table-saws), but there's a long endurance climb ahead before we reach the top. It's our biggest adventure together so far, and we're both enjoying the challenge.

GO
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2007 - 12:57pm PT
Off White, your crags have real atmosphere.
sunjule

climber
Aug 7, 2007 - 12:22pm PT
Gabe - good luck, you deserve it!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2007 - 12:28pm PT
Julia, you still thinking about a big move? To Canada with its own alpine flavor?
sunjule

climber
Aug 10, 2007 - 06:05am PT
Going there in September for a month to sample what all the hassle is about :). Btw if anyone is around Canadian west coast and wants to climb in september - let me know!
sunjule

climber
Aug 10, 2007 - 06:05am PT
Ups, double posts happen here too :
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Aug 10, 2007 - 09:54am PT
Sorry, already have fall trip out west planned (RR). Definitely need to get to Squamish one of these years, though.

Good luck to you as well, J!

GO
murcy

climber
San Fran Cisco
Aug 10, 2007 - 10:58am PT
careful with that table saw!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2007 - 09:51am PT
sunjule:
Going there in September for a month to sample what all the hassle is about :). Btw if anyone is around Canadian west coast and wants to climb in september - let me know!

Rumor has it there are a few Canadians on the Topo. They don't yet know what a legend you are, however. By way of introducing you I was looking around for the_pirate's fine early-years Ukranian Power action/portrait, or that oddly racy post-bivy photo GO posted awhile back. Both more engaging and probably embarassing than the standard alpine shot, but fortunately I haven't located them yet.

And since this is the Random TRs thread, I'll toss in a name-this-route shot for the Gunkies, from yesterday. Very popular and recognizable fun-pitch, with peace-loving although defensive wildlife at the base.



sunjule

climber
Aug 14, 2007 - 01:43pm PT
larry, don't know why, but i also think it's a good thing you didn't really find those pics...

here is a picture from my w-end (not fair to play 'name that route i guess...)


oh, and this is from the day afterwards, same place, the other side of the valley :)


and that's the view from the top - to make it easier to at least recognize the valley!

...

ps - still waiting for the lurking canadians!
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Aug 14, 2007 - 02:08pm PT
Larry, that's a gorgeous photo of that copperhead! As for the pics of Julia, I could post them for you, but if she doesn't want 'em online, that's that, so far as I'm concerned.

No climbing for me this last weekend. Surfing. Something I suck at even more than climbing. Love it, too, though!

Julia - why all the tiny pics? I think those are very nice photos, but hard to tell!

GO
sunjule

climber
Aug 15, 2007 - 03:37am PT
here you go - just for GO :)


and
and

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2007 - 08:52am PT
Much better!
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Aug 15, 2007 - 09:19am PT
Gorgeous, thanks!

Hey, in that first pic, how is that snow on the far peak staying attached? It looks like it's just kinda sitting there thumbing its nose at gravity.

GO
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Aug 15, 2007 - 11:30am PT
Well, not that difficult (the 2 first), Sunjule.

First picture is from Aig. du Chardonnet towards Aig. Verte. The two snow ramps / couloirs are Couturier (left) and Codier (rigth). Mont Blanc and the "Camel Ridge" (Bosse du Dromedaire) is seen in the background.

Second is Chardonnet's north ridge (AD or something).

Last one looks nice and juggy (and tilted). But where, hm, I don't know.

Michael
sunjule

climber
Aug 16, 2007 - 04:14am PT
GO - those are hanging glaciers on Aiguille Verte. How they manage to exist - i never got the physics of it all, there is probably some critical mass idea or maybe the lower part fell off at some point - not sure.

Micheal - you are right, pics taken from Migot route up Chardonnay and the Chardonnay summit. Last pic much harder, it's from the other side of the valley - Aiguilles Rouges, a very nice route by Pallandre up Brevent (not alpine at all, you finish on telepherique and go down with it happily to food and beer).
sunjule

climber
Aug 20, 2007 - 07:59am PT
what about another 'what's that route' game? here is the 5th pitch


and here the 7th - as good a crack climbing as it gets on this side of the ocean :)

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2007 - 07:35am PT
Not enough Alpine climbers on the taco to recognize those cracks? I'm sure Michael knows, though.

Beautiful September-like weather here in NH this morning. Heading up to North Conway soon.
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Aug 21, 2007 - 10:44am PT
A long way in...






Richard

climber
Bend, OR.
Aug 21, 2007 - 11:56am PT
somewhere in s.e. Oregon



Ricks

Trad climber
Mullica Hill, NJ
Aug 21, 2007 - 12:57pm PT
There are some great photos here, but Handsome B your shots are simply awesome. I hope your a pro photographer 'cause that's some quality work.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2007 - 08:06pm PT
There are some great photos here, but Handsome B your shots are simply awesome.

I agree, HB's shots are excellent. Hope we see many more.

Love the whole variety of these random TRs, though. On this page alone, just five posts old, we've already got the Alps, High Sierra and SE Oregon.
Climbers out there livin' the life.

To keep the geographic mix going, a couple of one-handed snapshots from Cathedral Ledge last week:



and Humphrey's Ledge today:


snakefoot

climber
cali
Aug 21, 2007 - 08:39pm PT
OK, off topic but still fun in my eyes, been so hot and the DZ is so close......
out the door


friends playin near the deck


Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2008 - 08:04pm PT
So Pennsylenvy was visiting from Flagstaff and wanted to check out some New Hampshire granite.
He mentioned that he'd been climbing steep routes with the Doctor, but that slabs made him slightly nervous.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2008 - 08:56pm PT
The big left-to-right arch in the photo defines the very popular Standard Route, 5.5.
I had in mind that Pennsylenvy and I should climb something different, Tidal Wave or
Black Jade, if only I could recall where they went. Somwhere up the streaks straight
above the arch, but the devil is in the details.

At least the start was obvious, break through the arch a few hundred feet up.

cowpoke

climber
Jun 24, 2008 - 09:57pm PT
Glad you got out, Chiloe! We arrived in Colorful Colorado on Friday. We're headed to Wyoming in a couple days, but thought I'd share a few random "thus far" notes and pics.

We started the trip at Red Rocks, seeing Alison Krauss and Robert Plant. I can never get over how amazing the venue and views are there.


Then, headed to the Splatte for family camping, hiking, and a bit of climbing. We hadn't been back to the Splatte in 14 years...pre-fire. The burn damage was overwhelming to see, but the aspens and columbine are making a comeback.




Hiking up to Turkey Rocks.

And, Tessa at Turkey Perch on what was Kelly's first trad lead about 15 years ago.

And, a few more scenery shots from hiking...that pikes peak granite!


Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2008 - 10:05pm PT
Red Rocks CO, very cool. I loved that place as a teenager, did some scary scrambles there.
Illegal as hell.

Way to go, Tessa. Y'all heading for the Voo?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 24, 2008 - 10:15pm PT
I'm confused, i thought this pirate was Tessa?



clarity edit - Salad's fam, not mine.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2008 - 10:16pm PT
Glad you got out, Chiloe!

See, I thought that Pennsylenvy and I were climbing Black Jade, but it turned out I was
mistaken about exactly where that went. Now that I know better, you and I should fire
it later this summer.

Instead, P led Tidal Wave with bad beta. Here he's warming up on runout 5.8.

cowpoke

climber
Jun 24, 2008 - 11:11pm PT
Mungeclimber, very cool that Salad's daughter's name is Tessa too -- seven years ago we rarely heard the name, but have met a few since.

here is our older (10) daughter, Sammy, on the same route (she has been psyched to 2nd climbs lately if it involves cleaning, but in this pic you can see a green cam getting away from her)

yep, Chiloe, hoping for a couple days at the voo...
cowpoke

climber
Jul 7, 2008 - 05:50pm PT
a Colo-Wyo family vacation, continued

Highlights included horseback riding, mountain biking, hiking, swimming, fishing, and acoustic jams as well as trips to the zoo, two amusement parks, Red Rocks, and a triple-A baseball game (complete with 4th fireworks)…oh yeah, and climbing.

I was able to climb with 6 different family members:
1 wife
2 daughters
1 dad
1 sister-in-law
1 fiancé of sister-in-law

Forgot the camera at the Voo, so Vince valiantly took shots with his camera phone (I tried to chop in quality to little avail). This was the “best” shot of the bunch…me on the 1st pitch of Grand Traverse.

At Lumpy, I got out for a very fun early morning with my dad. This was just his 3rd time climbing, and the first time in 10 years ago.

Here he is strapping on the helmet and working on Grack Crack.


That morning, also got to try Rooster Tail

and Yosemite Crack.

And, some random shots for this random tr:

A fresh trout dinner,

a cactus flower,


and another beautiful Colorado sunset.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2008 - 07:32pm PT
Neat stuff, Eric. Loved the fish and 3-generation TR. Your dad looks oddly familiar!
LX

climber
Jul 9, 2008 - 03:51pm PT
Sol & I - Fun times at Penstemon Dome, 7/3/08.
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