Walleye... tell me a story

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Messages 1 - 58 of total 58 in this topic
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 13, 2007 - 09:20pm PT
What was the deal with Schultz jumping into your aiders on the Nabisco Wall solo...?
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Apr 13, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
Uh oh... Sounds like another episode of As The Cam Turns....

Russ calls walleye out onto the carpet. Will Walleye respond? Is Ouch pregnant? Who's the father? Is it Anna Nichole Smith?
WBraun

climber
Apr 13, 2007 - 10:26pm PT
Hee hee hee

I remember that episode. Shultz does the butterballs placing only one piece and tells me he's ready to free solo the thing.

Ha I told the monkey he still has the rack on and it's not the same. The iron monkey doesn't believe me.

Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 13, 2007 - 10:31pm PT
so what happened?
WBraun

climber
Apr 13, 2007 - 10:37pm PT
Read the first post.

I saw Walleye when I was coming back from climbing in his truck going the opposite way earlier today.

Maybe he went to L's to get boot licked and whipped?
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 13, 2007 - 10:41pm PT
neat story
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2007 - 10:48pm PT
kick asssssssssssss! This story is why Gore invented the internet. Good one WallEye!
susan peplow

climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
Apr 13, 2007 - 10:48pm PT
Some would call that hitting the "slow button" followed by "snail eye".

Now Russell, now that you've heard your story, get back to work. We blast for vacation tomorrow!!!

~Susan
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 13, 2007 - 11:23pm PT
Fuching Top Notch!
Outstanding.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Knob Central
Apr 13, 2007 - 11:50pm PT
Sweet tale, that I am sure Dave would rather we all forgot.
K. Fosburg

Sport climber
park city, ut
Apr 13, 2007 - 11:54pm PT
Snail-Eye indeed, indeed!
Schultz soloed the Rostrum and a bunch of other hard shiite. Did the Nose and Salathe in a day. Those must be on Susan Peplow's list.
susan peplow

climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
Apr 14, 2007 - 12:16am PT
Hey Kevin, not on my list no way!! And for the record, my snail-eye starts at .6 solos.

Good on him and anyone else who's goes for it yet wise enough to know their limits.

~Susan
Anastasia

Trad climber
California
Apr 14, 2007 - 01:12am PT
Now that is a great story and very well written.
Gosh, I also know a shoe salesman and a Canadian that climb.
Must be a few hanging around this corner.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 01:16am PT
great story, thanks all for the effort!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 14, 2007 - 12:35pm PT
Great post! Freesoloing is definitely not horseshoes or hand grenades. Close doesn't cut it! Better to have friends nearby just in case. Glad we can all laugh about it now.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 14, 2007 - 12:53pm PT
Cosgrove tells me Shultz is now living in LA, doing very well for himself in some sort of Hollywood rigging support capacity; had some idea, started a company, now engaged in a lucrative partnership, driving a shiny new big arse truck, and enjoying himself.

The Iron Monkey a few years prior to Walleye's story:


Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 04:38pm PT
Great Story! Thanks for sharing! I wonder if that was the first time a photographer saved the subject's ass. Maybe if you weren't there on a big fat cord he would have finished it -no other options except jump.

Are Dave and Holly still together? Did some climbing with her in the '90s and just about got in a big ass bar fight up at Diamond Jims (Sonora Pass) one night because of Holly, her friend, and one big redneck who, like others, had intentions on them. That was quite interesting. I might as well have been soloing butterballs. He was a big f*#ker. Don't know where Dave was. Down on chemo I think.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 14, 2007 - 04:42pm PT
that rigging thing he's got going looks impressive
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 04:56pm PT
Cool stuff!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Apr 14, 2007 - 05:08pm PT
Another photo of the Iron Monkey trying to get comfortable enough to drill.


Ken
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Apr 14, 2007 - 06:13pm PT
Thanks for the story and the awesome photos Walter. Here is one of Dave Walking the Plank. Not the quality of your images.


Ken
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Apr 14, 2007 - 06:43pm PT
I wish someone would. I will never go back either.

Ken
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 06:45pm PT
When was that? Think the bolts are any good still?
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Apr 14, 2007 - 06:54pm PT
Jerry, good question. Only one way to find out. They are 1/4" and were placed in 1986.

Ken
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 07:17pm PT
Placed under duress no less. I'm sure they are bomber. I mean, twenty one years isn't that long.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Apr 14, 2007 - 07:41pm PT
More food for thought. The bolts are a hodgepodge of taperlocks, buttonheads, screwtops, and threaded machine bolts. We were financially challenged at the time and used whatever we could scrounge up. On the bright side, there were a few natural placements. The rock is the hardest to drill in that I have encountered in Yosemite.

Ken
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Apr 14, 2007 - 08:05pm PT
Great. That makes me feel better. As soon as this rib heals up I'll think about the second. LOL!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Apr 14, 2007 - 08:35pm PT
That is what I am going to do too. Just think about doing the second. This one shows the angle better.


Ken
chappy

Social climber
ventura
Apr 14, 2007 - 11:54pm PT
Great story Walleye...can't believe I hadn't heard that one before. I was hanging around on the Nabisco Wall in a similar fashion when said shoe salesman soloed the route. The shoe salesman was quite a climber as well. Knocked off the Wafer first. Than sat on Monkey Island staring out at the river for a while--getting psyched I imagine. Then he fired the thing. Looked solid. One minor hitch in his getty up at the crux of Butterfingers--the one place on the route where you don't have your fingers into anything. You're just out there! Pretty impressive. I was wondering what to do if he fell...keep shooting pictures? Fortunately, I didn't have to make that decision. Maybe the shoesalesman will post a photo...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 15, 2007 - 12:10pm PT
Mark,
Shortly after that Nabisco Wall solo, a few of us gathered up over at the Ahwahnee and you presented a short slide show on the event; pretty darned impressive feat and nice coverage of it as well.
Mimi

climber
Apr 15, 2007 - 01:17pm PT
Really glad to hear Dave and Holly are doing well. Last saw Dave at Walt's memorial and I couldn't believe the size of that big truck he was motoring around in. Cracked me up.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Apr 15, 2007 - 01:23pm PT
Majorly cool action Walleye - wow.
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Apr 15, 2007 - 01:34pm PT
Gripping tales to be sure!! Palms sweatin' all the way!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Apr 17, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
Is this when Dave jumped into your aiders?


Ken
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Apr 18, 2007 - 12:16pm PT
Brothers from different mothers? You be the judge.

David Bowie/Aladdin Sane:Iron Monkey:



eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Apr 18, 2007 - 12:52pm PT
That's the most entertaining story we've had here in a while.
Mimi

climber
Apr 23, 2007 - 10:03pm PT
Yeah, funky brother!
James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Apr 23, 2007 - 10:32pm PT
classic story
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 2, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
Cool thread Walleye - I never knew that story about the Iron Monkey's attempt. What a hard core mutherfunker...

Shoe salesman on B-Balls. Photo: Mark Chapman

SammyLee2

Trad climber
Memphis, TN
Feb 2, 2008 - 02:09pm PT
I just love these stories and pictures. Even when it displays so dramatically my own limits and weakness. It's one thing to have skill like so many humans do. It's a whole nother thing to risk you life on that skill. To somehow KNOW you can do it and that you WILL do it or life ends. Confidence to the max.

I'll never do any of that but many possibilities to "step up", are still there. Perhaps one day, I'll get Karl or somebody to let me jug up their rope on a big wall.

Just curious, could two 5.8 to 5.9 climbers and a rope gun get up a big wall, maybe like Washington Column? (I know, for many of you, it's not)
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2008 - 09:28pm PT
sammylee2 writes: Just curious, could two 5.8 to 5.9 climbers and a rope gun get up a big wall, maybe like Washington Column?

They do it every year, without a rope gun. When are you going?
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Feb 6, 2008 - 09:42pm PT
check out that pic of Bachar!
that's the single greatest rockclimbing pic in the world -
survival

Big Wall climber
arlington, va
Feb 6, 2008 - 11:52pm PT
What a great story. Buggs has one about Dave going past him on the East Buttress of Middle or something. Thanks for the Tale!
Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Feb 7, 2008 - 09:21am PT
To think I was expecting something like this....

48 hours quote...

"Jack, tell me a story."
"F*#k You!"
"Oh thats one of my favorites."

Great thread.

Prod.
K. Fosburg

Sport climber
park city, ut
Dec 5, 2008 - 08:42pm PT
Gosh, what an "interesting thread". That Schultzy sounds real crazy. I wonder if there's anything else could be said about him?
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Dec 5, 2008 - 10:27pm PT
Thanks for the bum, K.

Love the call out by Russ-In-Peace
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Feb 25, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
What's with the sudden bout of blatant self promotion?

Bump
Fish Finder

Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
Feb 25, 2009 - 09:26pm PT



Hey Jingy


Back Off
Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
It's a "favorite TR" bump day Jingy..... those were of course my favorites.

C'mon, give us a treat.... write a TR about your masturbation routine in the cubicle. Omit nothing.

oh... did this just bump it?
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Feb 25, 2009 - 10:31pm PT
I'm with Brooke- I blacked out the pink stripes on my Lasers too.
But nowadays, pink's the new black.
wbw

climber
'cross the great divide
Apr 21, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
Hey, didn't an unnamed Brit who lived and died by the sword, also free-solo the Nabisco Wall??
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Apr 21, 2009 - 06:12pm PT
Not sure what unnamed Brit your thinking of but the one I can recall sprayed a bunch about soloing a lowly 11c--AstroMan--then hung on Outer Limits...all before giving the fruit of Ozzie's loins a tour in the Alps and up the Captain. But that's probably not who you were thinking of.

More about the 'awesome back of Schultz' please.
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Aug 25, 2012 - 03:00am PT
'90 I was working in employee housing. Croft and Schultz's GFs approached me about putting 2 double beds in thier room instead of the standard twin (size) beds. I had visions of grandeur - what the life of a rock star must be(?). I complied as far as the beds go. Only would add that in my memory, Dave's girl was really excellent - a high class bay area specimen, but ultimately, like she couldn't handle the whole climbing culture. IDK.
tom Carter

Social climber
Nov 12, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
Way to go Wally!!!

Great history!
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
Nov 24, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
you kids keep me laughing,,,,ahhhh fun in the sun ,,,
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 20, 2014 - 04:28am PT
Bump
overwatch

climber
Dec 8, 2015 - 10:39am PT
Pretty good one. Great pics of a couple of huge studs
PolishClimber

Trad climber
May 22, 2019 - 09:57am PT
This was a true classic, but it appears Walleye's story is no more...

Those who read it will recall.
Messages 1 - 58 of total 58 in this topic
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