Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 03:24am PT
|
Good job, now you got me thinking those are fun! Plus, you kept the TR under the 1000 words which helps with my interest level.
What's next?
~Susan
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2007 - 10:59am PT
|
Susan, now you'll give me writers block, and your voice will join the chorus of others guiding me through life... e.g. Feynman "what I cannot create, I do not understand", Pratt: "technique is our protection", Long "don't thrash!", Peplow "keep it under 1000 words"...
...glad you liked it.
What's next? jeeze i dunno... there is the long long list... but right now I've got to get back a lead-head. There is the "hot pink list," the "yellow-book 5.9/5.10a list," the "Roper obscura" list, the list of attempts-to-be-sends, the high mountain list, the desert list....
...Russ seems to be lobying for an Elephant's day... maybe as soon as the pass opens we'll do that one, and I can cremate the "hot pink list"
But this coming weekend is open (but if I go out with Gary we'll probably start long route training)... the next weekend is Fish-In-The-Desert with some ancillary climbing... after that I'm not thinking.
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 11:21am PT
|
Good times, Ed! Still no PO!
Everyone is probably different, but I thought it was a good bit harder than five and dime which, although I never tried to lead onsight, I don't think I've ever fallen on, even though I tried it initially at a much early point in my learning curve. I did get this one clean on TR after hanging on the lead, but it required an unusual amount of grunting and discomfort.
I've only climbed outside one half day in Yosemite and a mini-day on moderate sport climbs in Owens in at least the last 4 months (maybe more?), so my 'off-the-couch' mode as Ed put it could be part of the reason why I found it harder. I suspect since I didn't feel too clumsy or weak though, that I actually would usually have a harder time with the longer and somewhat flaring stretch of rattlely fingers on Finger Lickin'.
Snatch Power, for me, was harder than both by far! I don't know if it was reach, power, or some mystery technique that I was lacking there?!
FWIW, it was part of a 10d 1" circuit. On said circuit, there were two climbs that I went to do, and upon looking at them, decided to save them for a stronger day. (Little Wing, Mark of Art) Both by Chapman, one by Worrall. I don't know Kevin, but Mark is a pretty big guy. You might get a finger lock here and there where it's too fat for me, but these routes must have otherwise been that much harder for you!
|
|
yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 11:47am PT
|
One summer day many moons ago I saw Melissa in the Falls Amp. Homegirl can climb.
|
|
spyork
Social climber
Land of Green Stretchy People
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 12:10pm PT
|
Great TR followed by great history. Thanks all!
|
|
Crimpergirl
Social climber
Hell on earth wondering what I did to deserve it
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 12:21pm PT
|
Fun TR as usual. Though if you enjoyed Melissa as a partner, I'm not sure why you had to resort to calling her a wench.
Channeling the pirate maybe? weird.
:)
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 12:32pm PT
|
Ed, if you can come up with some GPS info, you and TeamWide™™™™ can go into Basket Case from the top. Let me know how it goes.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 12:36pm PT
|
Finger Lickin' is much harder than Five and Dime for me, too. I have smaller than average hands. I can barely toprope it - I think it is the liebacking at the top that gets to me. On Five and Dime I am getting good handjams the whole way (cupped at the top).
On Snatch Power, I think it's a reach-dependent rating.
|
|
Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 01:07pm PT
|
RE:
" Finger Lickin' is much harder than Five and Dime for me, too."
I agree the liebacks are deceptive - I recall something that felt more like finess than determination.
For me the start of Fingerlickin' was a concern - where the crack pinches off in that cleft, and below there's a section where the gear is poor because of how the crack opens inward and, you have to gas it - I hated gassing it - I wanted to be able to belay off each jam and place gear all the way!
I recall looking down the cleft and recognizing it would suck to fall into it, near the ground too.
Think I did it 2/3 times.
|
|
spyork
Social climber
Land of Green Stretchy People
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 01:10pm PT
|
I got a Garmin, Russ, shoot us the coords. I will TR anything...
|
|
scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 01:13pm PT
|
Clint, I'm surprised you say you have smaller than average hands
but get cupped handjams at the top of 5 and Dime. That's a solid
3 inches, fists for me. I think I have smaller than average hands
but not Much.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2007 - 03:49pm PT
|
whoa Russ dude! only scuffy_b on TeamWide has talked about the Basket, inspired by Peter H.'s story... spyork, I don't think Russ was suggesting a TopRope, but a Team insertion on a suicide mission... sort of like the dirty dozen minus 8.
On a totally embarassed note, I didn't spell "winch" correctly... now changed.... I can't believe I did that! Sorry Melissa!!
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 03:50pm PT
|
Basket Case has been on my list for about 25 years......
along with:
Fallout
Desperate Kneed
Jaws (the real one, not that SD sham)
Elephants Eliminate
Space Invaders
Crucifix
Sky
On the Edge
Barefoot Servants
Book of Job
Owl Roof
Boa/Pirouette
Ala Moana
Narrow Escape
Wild Turkey
that wild ass looking thing up and left of you
when you are walking down to the EastLedges.
It's wide, big and far away on one of the Brothers???
Straight Jacket
and that thing on Broderick???
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 03:58pm PT
|
scuffy b,
I guess my hands are long and skinny, like the rest of me. So small for cramming, but cupped spans a fairly wide crack that could be called fist.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 04:34pm PT
|
It is fun to re-visit these Valley gems up close and personal in the Hartouni "Signature" TR's.
And finger Lickin' is a gem to be sure.
The day I met Don Reid, 27 years ago, he was taping up in Big Al's van, prepping for Finger Lickin'. The 3 of us went and did it, with Reid doing a great job jamming the whole thing on lead.
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 06:06pm PT
|
Thanks for another fun TR, Ed,
I hope I'm around for the Day Of The Elephant!
Basket Case. That thing look so cool. Every time I'm up canyon I just keep looking at it. I'll never climb 5.11 offwidth so maybe rappeling is the answer! Bushwacking over to it is it's own reward, of course.
Zander
|
|
Marshall
climber
bay area
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 06:31pm PT
|
Nice TR, Ed. I got the finger lickin tour for the first time too about a month ago. really fun.
Wyatt on the aforementioned 1" section of finger lickin.
Some friendly hands up a little further, before it pinches down again.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 06:38pm PT
|
Sweet shots!
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2007 - 07:11pm PT
|
nice shots Marshall! that first shot is really in the bidness! the furrowed brow on the leader is an indication that all is not sweetness and light! That is the first crux!
|
|
chappy
Social climber
ventura
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2007 - 10:28pm PT
|
Yeah Kev I was pretty pissed at Bridwell about Great Moments in Baseball. I just thought it was so low of the guy. We worked hard at cleaning it--over the better part of two days if I remember correctly. I also remember driving around and showing him all the great new routes we did that spring. I thought he would be proud of us. Obviously that was a misconception--jealous was more like it. What a betrayal of friendship. I never thought the same of Jim after that.
Charlie Porter and I first went to the Finger Licking area in the spring of 74. Charlie was way into free climbing that spring and we climbed a fair amount together. I can't remember why we went up there, whether I saw some particular route or we were just exploring the lower canyon. We climbed Jawbone first naming it after a deer jawbone we found near the base. The lower part of Snatch Power was dirty. I returned a short time later with Matt and Bruce Pollock and Asworth, cleaned the route and led it. I named it after some graffiti that was in the lodge restrooms. Though I borrowed the term, I didn't use it in the same spirit as the graffiti "artist". Rather, it was meant to reflect the need for having a strong grip so one could snatch the holds through the thin crux. Its a fun little route. Wandering around after our ascent I stumbled upon Finger Licking. You know the story there. That was pretty funny when Donini pulled off that big munge clump at the top. A great little crag all in all.
Chappy
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!