The Spirit of Hartouni (TR)


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Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 2, 2007 - 01:49pm PT
So Will and I are sitting around drinking.... I mean we're sitting here working and we get to blabbing about going to do some JT OW..... after scouring the internet we keep bumping into a rig called Ipecac. It seems this thing always has the tag line of "go try it", and "must do" attached to various posts all over Usenet. I'm thinking sandbag. Being slightly fortified we finally figure out where it is located and head out loaded for bear.

It is a 122ft long gaping maw..... It reeks of physicality..... the grains are pretty large and a for all the world looks like a longer version of 1096 if you squint and the sun is in your eyes.

Here is the Beast in all its glory:

Ok.... you are saying no way that thing is 122ft long. You are correct... the "1" in front of the "22" is a typo. It feels like 122ft, but might only be about 18.
Here is Will shown for scale.....

It is pretty squeezy if you have been on a steady diet of BBQ and liquor since the Diet Challenge. Pro is good and you need nothing outrageous, just a few cams to 5" and then something thin for the top, which is the crux. It is awkward thin hands to fingers getting out of the maw with bad feet..... standard fare for Josh. If you fail to protect for the follower (like I did) you better hope they don't pop at the crux. They will for sure clang outta there and hit a couple of slabby ledges before they come to a bloody rest. As for living up to the name and the hype.... well..... Will might have got a small burp or two, but no actual vomit.

After ticking Ipecac we decide to do a warmdown (?) on Point of No Return. At a minimum we could go out there and look at it while drinking a beer. I had not been there in about 25 years and the memory fades..... so I decide to lead it, again.
Here is a vintage shot of Robert Carrere plugged into the business in 1980 or so:

Will had a 12" BigBro that I futzed around with looking for a good placement while still in my tennies.... I found a placement, but it would only really keep me from rolling down the hill if I fell. Even though we were "loaded for bear", none of our cams or extruded extra long hexes were even remotely large enough to protect the start...

oh well.... I boot up and launch into the thing. I don't really fit and have to go to the outside edge with a really tight chickenwing.... Will is nervous and moves into the cave at the start so I don't land on him if I pop. Good plan, as it is the kind of thing a larger man might pop out of.... and if he does, he has about a 1 in 15 chance of being able to walk back to the car unassisted. The grimness continues and the one cam I have is totally tipped out and pretty useless..... wiggle wiggle wiggle..... push cam higher.... wiggle wiggle wiggle..... push cam higher.... Yipee! The cam is finally good and the OW eases into a good rest before the interesting roof moves to belly roll onto the summit. Here is Will on the follow, right about the time a reliving burp saved him from throwing up in his mouth. This is right about where the #5 Camalot starts to work too....

We had wild plans of doing the Triple Crown of JT OW's, which would include The Inquisition or The Maneater, but thank God it started to get dark and we could go home. We'll save those just in case Ed plans a visit.

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Apr 2, 2007 - 01:54pm PT
doesn't look easy getting out of that last one. That roof at the top....looks like you'd have to exit on the right side.

Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 2, 2007 - 02:00pm PT
Nice TR.

If I'm not mistaken Ipecac is a "medicine" used to induce vomiting.

Monument Manor
Apr 2, 2007 - 02:08pm PT
From a socio-anthropological viewpoint this obsession with burrowing and body stuffing must stem from primordial escape/defense strategy employed by Neolithic cave dwellers. Or are you just trying to regain the safety and security of the womb.....

The Rebel L Gang
Apr 2, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
Dang Russ,

I almost ralphed just lookin' at the pictures...

Social climber
The West
Apr 2, 2007 - 02:28pm PT
Looks like good fun to me! thanks for sharing.

Ow is definitely a return to the womb thing but don't tell anybody.

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Apr 2, 2007 - 02:29pm PT
Natural Light and Natural Ice? What's up with that?


Social climber
Jarhead City, CA
Apr 2, 2007 - 02:36pm PT

The Point of No Return was a proud off the couch, beer fortified, scary lead by Russ (Ipecac at least had good pro). 100% chance of grievous injury if you blow the crux, unless you have a 10" cam. A green camalot won't even start to work until halfway up the wide section, and isn't really secure until about 2/3.

25' of climbing that feels like doing ten pitches and then getting in a bar fight.

This thing is NICE. So tight at the bottom you can't turn your head without losing all the skin on your nose, and basically bombay on the entry. At least you can inhale and get a no hands/no arms rest from a chest jam. Starts about 10" and gradually narrows to about 5" in the back at the top. Cool exit moves over the roof too.

Nature is correct, Ipecac is the stuff mom used to keep in the medicine cabinet in case the rugrats drank the drano and needed forced barfing.

Bluering, turning the roof is actually easy and alot of fun. I won't give away the secrets, but the easiest way isn't the most obvious one.


Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Apr 2, 2007 - 02:55pm PT
The Spirit of Brutus is more like it on the first route. :)

nice TR!

Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Apr 2, 2007 - 03:06pm PT
I belayed the mighty Brutus on that Ipecac thing once (not the FA). Nearly threw up from the effort.
susan peplow

Apr 2, 2007 - 03:11pm PT
Hey Monkey - I thought that Honewell banned the taco. What you doin' here mid-day?



Trad climber
Apr 2, 2007 - 03:12pm PT
In case of drinking should never induce vomitting.

Water down with copius amounts of beer....and follow with a whiskey chaser to shift the PH in your favor.

expect bad gas.


Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Apr 2, 2007 - 03:16pm PT
If you know someone who drinks drain-o you better start shining your shoes, cause you're going to a funeral.


Social climber
Jarhead City, CA
Apr 2, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
"Natural Light and Natural Ice? What's up with that? "

Crag beers. See, you usually need cans for your crag beers since they often travel unprotected in your pack, and something that's a weak flavored lager....basically barley-pop so it's not heavy or sticky in the 80 deg heat. So the first choice is usually Beast Ice, 5.9%, $4.99/12pk at Rite Aid.

But when Rite Aid is out of Beast Ice, and they run out quite often, the next stop is Natty Ice, and god forbid they run out of the ice beers, because then it's down to like Beast Light or Natty Light and you lose your 5.9% advantage.

In this case, we actually had a playmate mini cooler with some bottles of Red Hook ESBs as well as the Natty. When you come off one of these wide things, not far from vomiting, the lighter swill is more appealing. Rest assured, we made up for it with plenty of ESBs and Green labels with the steaks afterwards.

But really, you're missing the best part of that picture. When (if ever) was the last time you saw an 8" wide hex?

Trad climber
Apr 2, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
I was wondering about that beauty...what's the story there? Who made it?

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Apr 2, 2007 - 03:58pm PT
Glad to see no one's doing any upside down foolishness.

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Apr 2, 2007 - 04:08pm PT
Hey Elcapinyoazz,

I did notice the 8" hex and said to myself "Self, you don't see that too often" Reminded me of piles of stuff in Sibleys back yard from when he used to make Colorado Nuts.

Got it on the ice beer, thanks for the lesson. I guess I'm more of a light weight though as I stick to my Pabst at $12.99 a 30 pack from Rite aid. You know Pabst was voted Aberica's best beer in 1893...


Social climber
Land of Green Stretchy People
Apr 2, 2007 - 04:41pm PT
Whoa, looks pretty hard *and* scary.

Nice going Russ!


Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Apr 2, 2007 - 05:02pm PT
Did you make yourself some pinto spotted chaps? What is that thang in the beer and gear photo?

Trad climber
Apr 2, 2007 - 07:49pm PT
Here's a little J Tree thing that has your name on it.
It's just before Willow Hole. Ed and Jaybro might get to it first. thanks for the TR
Messages 1 - 20 of total 58 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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