Discussion Topic |
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 17, 2007 - 12:21pm PT
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Inspired by Steelmnkey's Steck-Salathe TR, thought I'd try for a different kind of climbing thread -- not so much about the climbs themselves, but instead about those hikes where things get careful, and roping up for the real climb comes as a relief.
Here, for instance, the moves were simple except there was surf thumping on razor rock below, and we kept looking out for incoming from the sea.
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Mar 17, 2007 - 12:29pm PT
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Yeeikes!
As I recall the hike up the ramp to the tree on Leaning Tower. You ascend twice as fast because it's out over that gulley.
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nutjob
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 17, 2007 - 04:50pm PT
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"3rd class" approach to Via Aqua on upper Yos Falls wall is more exciting than a lot of roped climbs. I'll post a pic when I find it. Basically need to step across a yawning abyss and traverse an 18" wide gravelly downsloping ledge to get to where you rope up for a 5.7. I think the approach is the crux.
edit:
here's the pics...
of me stepping across the open part: and my pardner just past that and starting the ledge: -
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
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Mar 18, 2007 - 11:29am PT
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If you like skinny exposed ledge traverses, try the NORTH FACE TRAVERSE of MIDDLE CATHEDRAL ROCK. High adventure factor, with a never done fealing to it- Eric
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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Mar 18, 2007 - 12:34pm PT
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Approach to NE ridge Bugaboo spire, no easier than the actual pitches.
North Chimney on the Diamond.
Snake Hike.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2007 - 01:09pm PT
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North Chimney on the Diamond.
RMNP has its share of no-falling-zone hikes ... from wet-grassy-ledge approaches
to high scrambly descents
Has even Tarbuster scrambled that last one?
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L
climber
Sesame Street
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Mar 18, 2007 - 01:10pm PT
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Yikes!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2007 - 05:11pm PT
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Not ropeless, but on an epic approach:
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creetur
climber
CA
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Mar 19, 2007 - 05:20pm PT
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sheesh. and i thought that last bit of the needles approach, that slabby granite business was terrifying. i stand corrected.
however, i don't recommend downclimbing the descent from igor unchained instead of rapping. way stupid.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Mar 19, 2007 - 05:30pm PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2007 - 07:09pm PT
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TK, you're an active dude. I recall the Castleton ball-bearings-on-a-rooftop approach in the days before the trail -- nervous like snow climbing, where each move is easy but if you started sliding, it's a long nasty ride down.
The Gallatin fellow, soloing some easy route? And the knife-edge, in the Winds or where?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Mar 19, 2007 - 08:16pm PT
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Thx Chiloe.
The Gallatin shot is of an unnamed cack near B.O. Buttress. The ridge is the summit traverse of Mt. Hilgard in the Madison range, here in Montana.
Eric taking a hike in the Gallatins (Waltz P1)
Cheers
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 19, 2007 - 08:17pm PT
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(Nice gloves, Chiloe!)
Yeah. The Leaning Tower approach is funky... A noble nomination.
How 'bout the lead-up to Mt. Watkins South Face? We watched Ridgeway nearly die on a forty-foot fall, wherein he shattered an ankle and we participated in a epic rescue.
For my part, I have VIVID memories of an early attempt of the Arrow Direct back in 1969. Of course, it rained (deluged) on us that night during a bivy at the base. Coming back down, across Sunnyside Bench, it was so muddy/slippery that we pitched the pig to the base, and I refused to traverse the vertical mud without a rope. We roped-up on the trail! Sunnyside fooking Bench!!
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Mar 19, 2007 - 08:17pm PT
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The last time I went up to Castleton was with Brent Higgins and there was a ton of frozen ice/snow in all the shady areas. He decided for breaking off the trail to go directly to the base of Castleton. But there was all this frozen shale with ball-bearings. With packs and approach shoes this was very high on the sketch factor for me.
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Mar 19, 2007 - 08:30pm PT
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with the north chimney already brought up, i'd have to say the traverse across broadway with a pigfull of wall gear deserves an honerable mention!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2007 - 08:34pm PT
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TKingsbury:
Eric taking a hike in the Gallatins (Waltz P1)
The Waltz is on the very short list of Gallatin climbs I know. Pitches 1-2 were cake, then it started drizzling and I couldn't get no pro but whined a lot and took forever on P3. Partners prolly froze.
rmuir:
(Nice gloves, Chiloe!)
Leather gloves absolutely required for the hikes in that neighborhood. We did one hike, 7/10ths of a mile and dead level, that took 45 minutes of careful spooky work. It had no exposure but the limestone karst is so ragged that even on the flats you can't afford to fall.
For my part, I have VIVID memories of an early attempt of the Arrow Direct back in 1969. Of course, it rained (deluged) on us that night during a bivy at the base. Coming back down, across Sunnyside Bench, it was so muddy/slippery that we pitched the pig to the base, and I refused to traverse the vertical mud without a rope. We roped-up on the trail! Sunnyside fooking Bench!!
Had fine weather on the LA Direct in '71 so I don't recall that hike, but Yosemite ledge approaches in general made me nervous. Or how 'bout the East Ledges descent?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Mar 27, 2007 - 02:35pm PT
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Chiloe:
The Waltz is on the very short list of Gallatin climbs I know. Pitches 1-2 were cake, then it started drizzling and I couldn't get no pro but whined a lot and took forever on P3. Partners prolly froze.
You're not alone, I don't think p3 sees too much action. Spicy.
I think Mojede has a story about falling on that pitch, which could be considered a fall in the no-falling zone....
some stitching fun....Pat on P2...
Cheers
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Mar 27, 2007 - 02:42pm PT
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The slab approach to get to 'Tune Up' on Dozier Dome scared the crap out of me. I kept imagining leaving a big red smear all the way down if I slipped. No pro is available so a rope is worthless and I am not going to be the one to add bolts for an approach pitch. Of course the route scared me even worse. What was it with Bachstar and 40' runouts?!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2007 - 02:56pm PT
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TKingsbury:
You're not alone, I don't think p3 sees too much action. Spicy.
I think Mojede has a story about falling on that pitch, which could be considered a fall in the no-falling zone....
Yow, I definitely had no gear I'd want to pull up on, let alone fall. Also, it took me a couple of forays to decide where I wanted to start the pitch, given that none seemed protectable. As I said, a slow lead in the rain, and not a stellar show for 5.8.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2007 - 02:59pm PT
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G_Gnome:
The slab approach to get to 'Tune Up' on Dozier Dome scared the crap out of me.
And speaking of the Meadows, I thought the downclimb descent from The Vision was interesting. I had a pair of old five-tennies and was glad for the stickiness. My partner had Nikes and was not.
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Kartch
climber
belgrade, mt
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Mar 27, 2007 - 03:31pm PT
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Here's a pic of my brother hiking in the no-fall zone up the SW Couloir Middle Teton.
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Mar 27, 2007 - 03:52pm PT
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Slabs approach to half dome.
If we're talking descents too, then North Dome gully is up there. Same with Five Open Books, the usual descent to the south. It's way mungie, and nearly always wet and grassy. So you're walking on wet grass, then downclimbing some exposed slab. In some spots you just have to jump or slide down to a small ledge.
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Mar 27, 2007 - 04:32pm PT
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Chiloe, I haven't ever done The Vision. We almost did it last year but a beach session broke out instead. The walk off Pywiak would be a brutal fall too. We were once walking down and there was a guy leading his girlfriend up the downclimb. They looked at us like wtf!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Mar 28, 2007 - 09:34am PT
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Yeah, Chiloe, that downclimb is circuitous and tricky...did you look at Croft's nasty "lil'" thing up above while you were there?
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Mar 28, 2007 - 10:02am PT
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I second, make that third (in more ways than one), the Leaning Tower approach
Elcapfool, are you referring to the hike up to Snake Dike? Jim Keating and I ran into a couple of rattlers on that one (okay, so there wasn’t any no-fall factor, though the slabs can be dicey, but it did make the approach a bit more exciting – and nervy).
In June, 1975, a real, real, real nice guy fell in the no-fall zone on the approach to the West Face of El Cap and the Navy helicopter sent in to pick up his body crashed after hoisting his body aboard. I think I recall it was about 200 feet in the air when it went down and you could see the smoke burning from it from El Cap Meadow. Amazingly, if I recall it, none of the (six, I think) crew members sustained any serious injuries.
I didn’t mention his name because I don’t think it is necessary. I really only mention it because, as we all well know, there are consequences to third and fourth class scrambling.
And bicycling on the streets of Dublin… a very unfriendly town for riding a bike. Just saw a bicyclist get hit by a taxi in front of our office. He’s not badly injured by the looks of the paramedics' treatment.
I apologise for the thread drift, but I have been in collision with a car in this town and would probably be dead if it weren't for my helmet, which was cracked all the way through. And several time buses have nearly creamed me.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2007 - 12:37pm PT
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426:
Yeah, Chiloe, that downclimb is circuitous and tricky...did you look at Croft's nasty "lil'" thing up above while you were there?
Don't recall checking that out. My old-time partner and I were pretty stoked to have just done another Kamps-Higgins classic.
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Mar 29, 2007 - 02:05pm PT
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Mar 29, 2007 - 03:57pm PT
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Chiloe, are you climbing on sat, i'm hittin the wind tunnel fri day in nashua and lookin to climb some choss if your up
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2007 - 05:42pm PT
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According to plan I'll be sitting on an airplane all day Saturday, and on the left coast at day's end. Not a climbing trip although I hope to visit an old climbing friend along the way. Back by next weekend, keep in touch.
Wootles, that's definitely the no-falling zone. I like the sky.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 29, 2007 - 05:49pm PT
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went up the hummocks to do the Arrowhead Arete once with Tucker, he was wearing Birkies, man that was a no falling zone for sure.
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montanaclimber
Trad climber
Marysville, MT
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Mar 31, 2007 - 05:53pm PT
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Sweet pics of The Waltz!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Chiloe, understandable...
How could we leave out....
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2007 - 12:50am PT
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Izzat Werner, by any chance?
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Too bad he's got such a small chalkbag.
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L
climber
The Rebel L Gang
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And his chalkbag matches his shoes!!! What's with the Fashion Statement, Werner?
Wootles, that is an awesome pix you posted above. The rock looks ominous, to say the least, and then that great breaking sky. Very nice.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Apr 18, 2007 - 03:33pm PT
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WTF?!? Is that Werner on Astroman? Dude, please put some pro in...you're making me nervous.
That's a horrendous fall.
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wiclimber
Trad climber
devil's lake, wi
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Apr 18, 2007 - 04:06pm PT
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For Werner, that left hand is pretty much as bomber as a three bolt anchor.
That's why he is, "Astroman".
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 21, 2018 - 09:59pm PT
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don't bump bump
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 21, 2018 - 10:26pm PT
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North descent off Old Original at Pinnacles has surprised a climbernor two.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jul 23, 2018 - 10:47am PT
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A little dicey getting to Geek Tower in winter or early spring:
Refreshing the links for 3rd class approach to Via Aqua:
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Da-Veed
Big Wall climber
Bigfork
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Jul 23, 2018 - 03:20pm PT
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Anything in Glacier National Park! Don't even bother bringing a rope, the rock is so bad it would never hold protection! Although there are some roped climbs, most are loose scrambles with sections of 5.easy.
My buddy is in a white shirt in the center of the photo on the goat trail that is actually a relief from the dangerously loose "real" climbing on the route!
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