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bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 23, 2007 - 03:20pm PT
Post up.


Two-inch webbing, EB's, Strawberry Mountain Chalkbag.

Where did all that hair go??
L

climber
The City of Lost Angels
Feb 23, 2007 - 03:32pm PT
Nice, Bob! Where are you there?
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 23, 2007 - 04:04pm PT

"Bombs Over Tokyo", 12d, first free ascent (and last). Swami belt and leg loops - didn't trust those buckle things yet!. Photo: Phil Bard
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Feb 23, 2007 - 04:27pm PT
Bombs over Tokyo shot is killer, probably because we just don't see that much of that route, so thx for posting.

There is something about posting a pic on, at, about a formation that is common, but that is shot from a unique angle.

I would think the photogs on the site would agree on that principle. The more unique the shot on a commonly appreciated climb or formation, the more the climber eye is drawn to it.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 23, 2007 - 04:32pm PT
Thanks Munge - I finally got a slide scanner so as soon as I can figure it out better, I'll get some more oldies but goodies out there.

Bob - classic stuff man. Two inch swami belts were the shiznit back in the day -compared to one inch!
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 23, 2007 - 04:55pm PT
From back when things were simple:

bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2007 - 05:14pm PT
John...great shot. Keep them comming.

FA of Pyscho Babble 12b


I took about three falls from the top of the small corner on a strawberry mountain waist harness and no leg loops.

rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 23, 2007 - 05:37pm PT
Remember the Whillan's Harness? (Barbara Thatcher on Cannon Mtn.)


Old-School 5.9: (John Bragg on Rob Nob's Spire, Needles, SD


Very old-school 5.10: (Kevin Bein on Matinee, Gunks)


Old-school 5.11: (John Bragg in Eldorado)

bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2007 - 05:44pm PT
Richard...is that Sidewall in Eldo?

Great shots.
cintune

climber
Penn's Woods
Feb 23, 2007 - 08:37pm PT
These are awesome, thanks.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 23, 2007 - 09:50pm PT
"...is that Sidewall in Eldo?"

Sorry Bob, I can't remember. That picture is nearly 30 years old, and Bragg and I were in Boulder climbing every day for a month. My caption notwithstanding, I think the actual 5.11 climbing was higher up.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 23, 2007 - 09:57pm PT
On a Boulder theme too ... onsight lead of What's Up?, 5.10d, on Elephant Buttress in Boulder Canyon, 1975. (For a middle-of-the-pack climber, that felt proud at the time.)

Gear list: EBs, swami belt, one set of slung hexes and stoppers.

rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 23, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
Pre-Patagucci stylin' on the South Buttess of Moran.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 23, 2007 - 10:25pm PT
Mari Gingery, Vampire, Taquitz Rock:


Dave Nielsen, Stoner's Highway, Middle Cathedral:


...both shots taken on good days back in '82; not so long ago by my reckonin'
cintune

climber
Penn's Woods
Feb 23, 2007 - 10:27pm PT
swiss-seat on mil-spec rope, ~83. Not quite old school era, but inspired by it, anyway.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Feb 23, 2007 - 10:31pm PT

Young Rockstar

1967

1989
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
e350
Feb 23, 2007 - 10:36pm PT
Lower Cathedral Spire 74'

rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 23, 2007 - 11:24pm PT
Old School Road Trippin'


Cleanin' the bugs off your glasses after taking your day on the roof was a major bummer.
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
New York, NY
Feb 23, 2007 - 11:45pm PT
It's 11:45 pm here on the east coast and I am off to slumberland. Thanks for posting such great shots. Maybe I'll have old-school dreams tonight...

Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:10am PT
Runnin' in tennies '76
Long hair way back...'76
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:19am PT
Nice ones mike. I know I have seen that last one of the three before in the striped shirt, but where and what route is that. I hope you are doing well my friend.

T2
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:39am PT
Tommy T!! The last one is of "Rectum Roof" at mission gorge. Doin' OK out here, would love to see you... Peace brother!!
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2007 - 12:59am PT
Mike...nice shots.

Would love to hangout with CA boys sometime.
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:34am PT
I have posted this before but it should clasify as old school with the strawberry chalk bag (wish I still had that thing) Fires and swami style harness.


bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:42am PT
mike, that last pic, of you on rectum roof, was '75, not '76....it was the day after you, me and the goon smoked the 6" "death doobie" in the goon's basement, constructed out of numerous jumbo-sized esmerelda rolling papers, then you guzzled a six-ounce tumbler of jim beam and passed out peacefully on the sofa...ten hours later you fired what was the 3rd or 4th ascent of what was, at the time, one of the hardest routes at the gorge....

ah, youth.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Feb 24, 2007 - 11:54am PT
Remember when the psychedelic era (Bird on the FFA of Wailing Wall)

gave way to disco? (Charles and Gib)
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 24, 2007 - 02:01pm PT
Old School Ice:

Note, for those who might know, the Holubar parka with leather shoulder rappel patch, the single piton anchor, single tool (an ordinary pre-curved-pick ice axe, not visible---who thinks they invented leashless climbing), totally casual hip belay, and lack of any protection.

How the hell did we ever live through this? (Don't remember where this was taken...)




Old School Bouldering:

Raymond Schrag on the VO warm-up at Hegermeister's Boulders in Estes Park, John Gill below appreciating Raymond's full alpine bouldering attire.

Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 24, 2007 - 02:42pm PT
Whillans... check
EB's... check
Velvet vest... check
Bow tie... check
Multi color vw van... check

Lembert parking lot, 1977

Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 24, 2007 - 02:45pm PT
And I've posted this image from back in the day when all you needed to know about shoes was what size you wore

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2007 - 02:45pm PT
RGold:
That is a really fun vintage winter climbing photo.

The end of the head band era:


Jeepers, I always thought the 2" swami was CUSH.
But maybe I was prepped to be feelin' no pain:


Mammut 150' cord, check.
42 lb Chouinard Guide Sweater, check.
Home made knickers from thrift store woolies, check.
Red PA's, slicker than a case hardened sledding rail:

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 24, 2007 - 02:53pm PT
Tied aiders, RRs and a Holubar parka, 1970. We all was young once.

rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 24, 2007 - 02:55pm PT
Old School Aid

John Stannard at the end of the expanding flake on the West Face of Sentinel, back in the day when you had to drive pitons behind it.

WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2007 - 03:02pm PT
"John Stannard at the end of the expanding flake on the West Face of Sentinel..."

COOL!
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Feb 24, 2007 - 03:21pm PT
More headbands: Dale. Long lanky guy on the ground may be Werner.

cintune

climber
Penn's Woods
Feb 24, 2007 - 03:42pm PT
Or Borat.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Feb 24, 2007 - 04:00pm PT
John Stannard at the end of the expanding flake on the West Face of Sentinel, back in the day when you had to drive pitons behind it.

"...with only their pretenses to keep them warm..."
(Tom Frost narration)
Anastasia

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 24, 2007 - 05:16pm PT
More!!!
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 24, 2007 - 05:36pm PT
The "other" shoe.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Feb 24, 2007 - 05:46pm PT

Only a girl could smile while wearing one of Don Whillans' harnesses! Those things were horrendous! At least for guys....
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Feb 24, 2007 - 05:52pm PT
These are great. Normal pictures of normal climbing and normal gear.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 24, 2007 - 05:55pm PT
Lower Cathedral Spire, 1968. It's looking scary out there.

Gear list: two 150' x 7/16" goldlines, hiking boots, about 4 pitons, a few Clog hexes, and 10 oval biners.

We got to the top and back in just 14 hours.

Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 24, 2007 - 06:12pm PT
That last one is a very nice mood piece
golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
Feb 24, 2007 - 06:16pm PT
A little newer school than most of these. 1984

Yes Chiloe, that last pic is really something. Thanks
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 24, 2007 - 06:22pm PT
My friend in the LCS photo, some years later, had the sad experience of cratering off Dogleg in JTree, breaking his ankle, then getting carried to a car by Peter Haan and Royal Robbins. So I've been told. Peter, you recall that?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 24, 2007 - 06:43pm PT
the ramp, mission gorge, '76. sporting the xtra-xtra large chalk bag that watusi spruced up with the blue oyster cult's "agents of fortune" logo. i miss that chalk bag.


yes, that photo above of LC spire is an amazing photograph. puts you right there....
feelio Babar

Trad climber
Sneaking up behind you...
Feb 24, 2007 - 07:01pm PT
Yo Gary...is that Hooker?
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 24, 2007 - 07:11pm PT
JB posted a picture of "that other shoe," the PA. (Actually, PA's were the original French smooth-soled climbing shoe.) Anywhay, here is a pair trying to get their owner up Mellow Yellow at Skytop in the Gunks.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 24, 2007 - 07:25pm PT
ah, one of my fave routes at the gunks. stout for the grade, too. keepin' it real....
golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
Feb 24, 2007 - 07:34pm PT
yes feelio. A failed attempt at Mt. Hooker, but quite an adventure none the less.

Great shots Guys. Keep em coming..
ec

climber
ca
Feb 24, 2007 - 07:38pm PT
Tied Etriers
White Painter's Pants
Raichle Boots
Brawny Man (paper towels) Flannel Shirt
& a Perm!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2007 - 08:48pm PT
I gotta' dog pile on Chiloe's Lower Spire "mood piece" too; very nice.

Mendel Couloir,
Wood ax, 2" swami, neoprene crampon straps, supergaiters, C. fantasia cord, black ice:

WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2007 - 08:50pm PT
And Dachstein mittens ....
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2007 - 08:52pm PT
...and poop in pants!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 24, 2007 - 08:56pm PT
looks like a Humming Bird ice tool in the right hand...
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2007 - 09:16pm PT
Sailor pants...the shit!

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 24, 2007 - 09:43pm PT
stolen from off white mere seconds ago:

me coming to the sudden realization that i'll never be a great alpine climber:

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 24, 2007 - 10:05pm PT
sometimes, it's just gotta be white. except for that sleeping bag stuff sack converted into a chalkbag....

when did "they" start making chalkbags, anyway? i remember there were quite a few years there where we just made do with whatever was handy...

[img]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a180/flagstaffbob/whitethreads.jpg?t=1172372534[[/img]
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Feb 24, 2007 - 10:05pm PT
Tar, foamback pants?
Still got mine.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Feb 24, 2007 - 10:12pm PT
Rare ice (snow) climbing shot of JL, with Richard Harrison. "Ok boys, pretend your doing the French Technique like in the Chouinard Catalog!"
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Feb 24, 2007 - 10:50pm PT
Hey Rick, is that the Dana Glacier?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2007 - 11:06pm PT
Roger,
I can't peg those switchbacks below them.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Feb 24, 2007 - 11:13pm PT
Bloody mountain couloir, near Mammoth.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2007 - 11:16pm PT
A post pubescent Tarbaby:


(photo stolen from Larry Loads)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2007 - 11:18pm PT
No Jay,
No foamback for me; I made the overpants and the pack.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2007 - 11:25pm PT
Ho Man!

Every one ah these is a tasty pearl, a real box 'o chocolates I tell ya:



bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 24, 2007 - 11:46pm PT
yeah, off white's lembert dome outfit was a real, uh, swank set 'o threads, tell you what!

and that van. i really, really miss that van. oh, to be back, back in the day.
Darnell

Big Wall climber
Chicago
Feb 25, 2007 - 12:02am PT
I love this thread, more pic's pleaze!!!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 25, 2007 - 12:19am PT
same van, still on the road in 1985


interior shot, summer of 1977. Note the cursed Chouinard Fish pack, nasty floppy ballistic cloth sack with pancake style top pocket. No relation to Mr. Walling's fine institution.
G_Gnome

Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
Feb 25, 2007 - 12:50am PT
Both of these have been posted on this forum before, but for your viewing entertainment.

Myself in the really old days.


Kris Solem not quite as far back.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 12:53am PT
Chouinard Pack, GPIW tee-shirt, two inch webbing, bloody leg courtesy of Scary Canary 5.12 1981.


Gunks 1978


Garden of the Gods 1978

Darnell

Big Wall climber
Chicago
Feb 25, 2007 - 01:23am PT
YES, YES!! Keep the majik alive!! Post your old skool photo here to save ST
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 25, 2007 - 01:57am PT
What did you do over X-mas break in 1974? How about the Spring Route on Baboquivari, Tucson's own little wall climbing area. Yup, it just ain't the same without the Forrest Pinbins, wool knickers, RR's, Camp Five 60/40 covered down coat, ironmongery and all!


Around the same time, this one almost ended my young school ass! Self-driving shields placed upside down with very bent bolts. As I was transferring from the second one out to the first, the first one sheared off! My whole show on a bent 1/4" bolt in a roof! "Lower me, sloooooowly!"


Lastly, rgold if John had climbed up a little higher you would probably have looked something like this from the end of the Expanding Flake. Peter Prandoni in 1975.


This was the first solid A-4 pitch to be climbed hammerless by the father of the clean aid movement, Bruce Carson (aka Super Chicken) solo. He had the entire thing all laced up with opposition wired nuts by his fascinating account.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Feb 25, 2007 - 11:13am PT
Did someone mention "Foamback"?
Bivy at top of the Bonatti Pillar 1977, photo: Dewi Butler.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 25, 2007 - 11:19am PT
Joe Herbst, hot and tired at the end of day two, 2nd ascent (?) of Harding/Rowell route on Liberty Cap, 1972.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 25, 2007 - 11:26am PT
We recently had an Al Bartlett thread.

Well, Al Bard was greatly enamored of Bartlett and he had Big Al guide for him a couple times (or maybe just once) in the Palisades. He loved Big Al's crusty minimalism: at the core of the "Bard's" tale, was this swiss cheesed, gutter bum looking foamback cagoule, which along with the rest of Bartlett's charming kit, all but scared the clients out of the high camp, of course excepting Big A's charming demeanor.

Man, one piece of Foamback would all but top off the most commodious rucksack eh?
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Feb 25, 2007 - 11:59am PT
I liked the stuff. The cagoule was like a bivy sack, just slip the pack over the feet and you had a pretty good shelter. Pretty bulky, though, as you say.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Feb 25, 2007 - 12:11pm PT
All the coolest old-school stuff: EB's, hip belay, Strawberry Mountain chalkbag, swamis, etc. The San Diego Union/Evening Tribune did this article on my partner (Dave Hersey, belaying) and me, as well as the San Diego climbing scene in general, back in '80 or '81. The climb is "General Dynamics" at Mission Gorge. Seeing Dave's belay today, I'm glad I didn't fall.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 25, 2007 - 12:59pm PT
Off White, that rope hanging from the bar in the second photo looks like a Chouinard 11mm "rattlesnake," which was my first rope... got hunks of it around still.

Old ropes never die!

Don't got any aircooled VW's anymore though I had a few... '61 bus, '67 bug, '72 bus, then switching to water cooled, '89 golf, '89 Westie (this last still in service as the "Magic OW Bus"). I miss the old days, but all in all you don't have a wrench on the new rigs as much as back then.

GREAT PHOTOS ALL!
TwistedCrank

climber
Hell
Feb 25, 2007 - 01:08pm PT
The Way Back Machine. Too cool.

The Gendarme at Seneca Rocks before it collapsed. Scott is wearing a wool union suit and wool knickers from army surplus. The helmet I think is a skateboard helment from Toys-R-Us.


Some central New York water ice. Scott and Woody are wearing army surplus slacks and Woolrich blazers under their 60/40 EMS parkas.


Woody showing off his Ragg wool balaclava rolled neatly about his brow.


A Fires and no-socks smear somewhere in Toulumne.


Crossing the schund on Mt. Dana. Mr. X is wearing a early-generation lemon yellow Patagonia baggies suit.


Top of Mt. Dana. I'm wearing a wanna-be-better-than-I-was driving cap, oversized reflector Vaurnet sunglasses and a wannabe droopy moustache


A backcountry alpine trip somewhere in New England. Note the genuine Peruvian toque, Dachstein mittens, and the skinny absolutely unshaped 210 cm skis.




k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Feb 25, 2007 - 01:14pm PT
best thread award. Roll out the carpet.

rgold, that Old School Ice picture is all time.
the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City, SD
Feb 25, 2007 - 02:03pm PT
Here are some DT photos circa 1978-1979.[img]







http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/bradsolon/2-24-2007-07Bradonrappel.jpg{{/img}}

Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Feb 25, 2007 - 02:28pm PT

Well, befitting the awards day, I've picked out two favorite pictures on this thread:

1st place in the category of 'Happy,' awarded to Rick A and his giant alpine muu muu cross dressing kind of style…thing. The emotional happiness depicted may actually derive from the combination of the Phyllis Diller glasses, droopy mustache, and the old school reservoir tip. But, enough of the analysis. It works on so many levels, Rick. I like the look. Could have been the set up for the sequel to Babel

2nd place in the category of 'Whimsy with Deepness,' awarded to Off White for his laybacking monkey on an old school bus. Sure to give ‘Little Miss Sunshine’ a good run. Do I hear the horn beeping uncontrollably in the background?

Buzz

WBraun

climber
Feb 25, 2007 - 02:36pm PT
How about this guy just above, Mr museum.

He's climbing with street shoes, on gnarly ground.

Props to that man!
CF

climber
Feb 25, 2007 - 02:50pm PT
Camp 4

Double Cream, Double Sugar

Dale Bard Buttermilks, early 70's

Dale Bard Buttermilks, early 70's
]

Swan Slab, 70's

TM

Evil Tree when there was a tree, 1973
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 25, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
Ed - you're right about that old rattlesnake rope, durable beasts, weren't they? I too have moved onto the Vanagon world, there's something so sybaritic about actually having heat. Air cooled campers came in all types, here's a buddie's bug that he yarded out the passenger seat to replace it with a locker that doubled as the the bed, spent two months living in the Lodge lot in it.




And for Roger, here's a detail of that guy climbing the door post.

bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 03:45pm PT
This is just great...thanks for all the great photo's.

joane

climber
Feb 25, 2007 - 03:59pm PT
I liked
"the ramp, mission gorge, '76. sporting the xtra-xtra large chalk bag that watusi spruced up with the blue oyster cult's "agents of fortune" logo. I miss that chalk bag."
Very fun photo splurge. And educational too.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 04:02pm PT
1979...South Platte


1980...Pueblo,CO I call and raise you one hippie.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Feb 25, 2007 - 04:04pm PT
Hey Chris,

Great shot of Ferdinand. Gives a whole new meaning to pre-school. What is old school without ancient school.

BTW, in the Camp 4 picture, is that Kevin Worrall on the left and Phil Bircheff on the right? Who is in the middle?

Roger

Edited to get Ferdinand's name right.
CF

climber
Feb 25, 2007 - 04:24pm PT
Hey Roger,

That is Kevin W., Rick Reeder? and Phil B.

Anybody know the climbers at Swan Slab?
CF

climber
Feb 25, 2007 - 04:58pm PT
L to R Grant Hiskes, Marco Milano, Rick Cashner

JB on Lembert

Me, Fa, Lazy Bum, early 70's

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 25, 2007 - 05:19pm PT
Colorado representin' ... Jim Erickson follows Steve Wunsch on the FFA of Kloeberdanz, 1974. Wunsch had no gear with him when he unexpectedly pulled the roof, but managed to clip a fixed pin with the carabiner on his chalk bag to hang there while Erickson tossed up more stuff.

Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Feb 25, 2007 - 06:47pm PT
1980

1981

1980

1981

and not so old - 1984

Curt
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 26, 2007 - 01:31am PT
"wtf???" bump
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Feb 26, 2007 - 09:42am PT
Curt wrote: and not so old - 1984

Hey, old enough that you have hair! Okay, not nearly as much as in all the other photos here, but hey, it was the eighties, not the seventies, after all!

GO
golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
Feb 26, 2007 - 12:25pm PT
Bob D,

Careful, you keep posting those old school trad pics and you are going to totally crush your detractors who think you are only a sport weenie....

Nice pics BTW.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2007 - 01:08pm PT
Spearhead...way back when?


Golsen...thanks. I think all these photos are great.

We were badasses....or just stupid.
Scary Larry

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Feb 26, 2007 - 01:09pm PT
old gear, swami belts... boy, it seems like just yesterday...
the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City, SD
Feb 26, 2007 - 10:48pm PT
Here are a couple more DT photos 1978 + 1990





Parking lot in 78






Mimi

climber
Feb 27, 2007 - 12:40am PT
Fun trip skiing in with the gear, not climbing, and faceplanting with a heavy pack on the way out. Good thing I had a V-8.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 27, 2007 - 09:51am PT
Another shot about the spirit, not the action or the gear. Ron Cox on the summit of Cynical Pinnacle, 1971.
From there, we could almost see El Cap.

justthemaid

climber
Los Angeles
Feb 27, 2007 - 10:27am PT
This thread rocks. Keep em coming.

Those tight shorts + swami belt pics are hot.

Cragsman in purple zebra spandex doing air guitar with his rack = PRICELESS.

I now have photographic proof of how old those psychedelic slings are to use as evidence in the next "When to Retire Your Gear" thread.
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
e350
Feb 27, 2007 - 12:43pm PT
Clyde Minaret

Knickers, nuts and blue suede shoes

BadInfluence

Mountain climber
Dak side
Feb 27, 2007 - 01:21pm PT
Chiloe, the Wunsch and Erikson photos is incredible! excellent photo!

BobD is that Chuck Boyd bouldering w/ the rainbow socks?
lemon_boy

climber
Feb 27, 2007 - 01:53pm PT
hey bob D,

The pictures you posted,

one of the early photos you posted was a side view of you on some granite. where was that at? pikes peak maybe? i recognize the route 'seamis' in one of the shots. one of the last ones you posted that says 'south platte' and shows a nice crack, is that 'dr dream'?
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Feb 27, 2007 - 03:03pm PT
There's

old school,

then there's


Really, old shool.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 27, 2007 - 03:15pm PT
Chiloe, the Wunsch and Erikson photos is incredible! excellent photo!

Thanks, I was in the right place at the right time with a camera -- although you'd laugh to see what camera most of these old photos were taken with!

Steve wrote a clever article about their climb, and his story along with that particular photo I think got reprinted for Climbing's 25th anniversary issue.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 27, 2007 - 03:27pm PT
Chiloe, I mentioned it in the "what scanner are you using" thread, but I'd love to hear more about how your converting your vintage images into digital files. The quality of several, including the Wunsch/Erickson shot recently mentioned, is stellar.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2007 - 03:40pm PT
chiloe...great photo's.

Lemonboy...your good! Right on all three. Bigger Bagger on the "Peak".

Steve Jones bouldering at the Fatted Calf.

This is really a cool thread. Thanks everyone.
lemon_boy

climber
Feb 27, 2007 - 04:11pm PT
yeah baby!!!

i've done 2 of them, but not dr dream. i know where it is but ahven't looked at it. i will have to investigate with the right attitude!

keep the killer pix coming everyone, it is really helping me grind through the work day.
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Feb 27, 2007 - 04:35pm PT
Fabiano made some decent climbing shoes back in the day..


Of course then Charles came out with those shoes with the green rands. Had to test them on Sexy Sadie...


Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 27, 2007 - 05:35pm PT
I think I had a pair of green-rands shoes. Weren't they one of the first-generation 5.10s? The front half of the sole was sticky rubber, the best there was at the time. The back half was green eraser rubber or somethin'. Loved those shoes.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2007 - 05:38pm PT
Ksolem wrote: Fabiano made some decent climbing shoes back in the day..


Black Beauty....right?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 27, 2007 - 05:40pm PT
Those might be Black Beauties on the feet of Ron Cox in my Cynical Pinnacle photo up top. He was going for max edging in an unsuccessful attempt to free what would years later become known as Wunsch's Dihedral.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 27, 2007 - 05:51pm PT
Croft bouldering on that big boulder...I think it's called the Rostrum or something...

le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Feb 27, 2007 - 05:57pm PT

^Stunning, and outrageous
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
e350
Feb 27, 2007 - 06:46pm PT
Bob, right on the Black Beauties

They were my first pair of climbing shoes, more like a boot
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 27, 2007 - 07:07pm PT
Speaking of Wunsch's Diehedral and Black Beauties,
These were real black beauties, one of the last stiff shoes,
The black lorica La Sportiva TAO:


Man I'd love to get a fresh pair of those Fabiano's.
Chiloe, that shot on Cynical: wit' your man sportin' a get up with the knickers, alpen socks, goldline, and Black Beauties -is suave.

looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Feb 27, 2007 - 07:36pm PT
Old School and ripped:

bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2007 - 07:41pm PT
Randy wrote: Old School and ripped:

Crist...if I had muscles like that... I might have been a good climber.

Nice shot.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 27, 2007 - 07:56pm PT
Speaking of Wunsch's Diehedral and Black Beauties,
These were real black beauties, one of the last stiff shoes,
The black lorica La Sportiva TAO:


Yeah those black Tao's fit and edged better than anything I've had since. Wish they still made them, but with Stealth.
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Feb 27, 2007 - 08:38pm PT
This is a lousy photo, but it's worth a look. Gunks parking lot at the hairpin ca 1978.


I'm the one with my head in he trunk, but the guy standing there is Phillipe Petit, who earned world fame when he did this:


(that's a high wire strung between the World Trade Center Towers, no tie in either.)
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 27, 2007 - 09:06pm PT
Some more shots from the mid-sixties...

The (then) aid (now 5.12) crack on the South Buttress of Moran


Runnin' it out somewhere on the Jackson-Johnson Route on Hallet's


The Master of Rock Himself plying his trade on the Jenny Lake Boulders

bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 27, 2007 - 10:52pm PT
Croft bouldering at the Cookie...

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 28, 2007 - 02:11am PT
Nice shots Rgold!

JB, ringside again for the jungle strong Mr. Croft this time. That is a snapshot in time if ever there was one! Way cool perspective.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 28, 2007 - 02:14pm PT
Jim Dunn in Canyonlands, 1974.

Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
Feb 28, 2007 - 02:47pm PT
i dont know who chiloe is, but you sure have been around a blcok or two....
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 28, 2007 - 07:42pm PT
Around a block or two, yes.
And here's one last shot of a climber just being there.
I've had some fun with this thread.

maui_mark

Big Wall climber
under a coconut tree
Feb 28, 2007 - 08:26pm PT
none of warren harding???
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 28, 2007 - 08:38pm PT
Ksolem - How did you end up hooking up with Phillipe? I spent a little time with him here in PDX years ago when he was in town.
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Feb 28, 2007 - 08:48pm PT
Healyje - At the time I was in New york, and Phillipe was a member of The Big Apple Circus (kind of a predecessor to the whole Cirque Du Soleil thing, performance as art...) I was married to a "mover and shaker" in the art world who also loved climbing, and she talked Phillipe into climbing with us. At first we did some 5.4's and stuff, and as I recall he was rather making fun of me for using ropes and such nonsense, so I took him on a real Gunks 5.9. Changed his tune then. We ended up doing a number of hard climbs together and I learned some real respect for the circus arts as well, seeing him perform was amazing..

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 28, 2007 - 08:51pm PT
"two towers, i walk...." best book EVAR.

got fined $1 per floor of the wtc, and was ordered to put on a free performance for the children in central park. amazing human being, and maybe the most amazing guerilla performance art actions of all time.
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Feb 28, 2007 - 08:58pm PT
They also gave him a free pass to the observation deck for life. He used it from time to time.

After the towers fell he did an interview on NPR which I heard. It was poignant and interesting. I will search their website later and see if it is still there ..

I saw that guy ride a unicycle on a highwire. Granted it was a special "cupped" tire. But still ...
BadInfluence

Mountain climber
Dak side
Feb 28, 2007 - 10:20pm PT
JB some sweet bouldering pics!

here's an amazing collection of Glen Denny photos

http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/popup/media_gallery_photo.jsp?OPTION=SAR&assetid=17473
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 28, 2007 - 10:24pm PT
Anybody have a picture of the old Eldorado Canyon wire between the Wind Tower and The Bastille?
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 28, 2007 - 10:25pm PT
There was supposed to be a book from Glen Denny coming out sometime in here. Did it ever get published?
BadInfluence

Mountain climber
Dak side
Feb 28, 2007 - 10:28pm PT
Not sure when, but I want a copy.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 28, 2007 - 10:38pm PT
Bad - yeah those Denny shots are amazing. Wish I could just jump into one of them and be transported!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 28, 2007 - 10:56pm PT
Yah those Denny images are the real deal don't you know it.

Kauk & I bumped into each other (oh ya, he drops my name whenever he can) at Patagucci headquarters last winter and Jane Sievert was flippin' through a whole bunch of that Denny stuff for us; man I got's to have that book too. It's all so candid, crisp, and mythic.

Hey Chiloe, whudya mean "one last shot?" er whatever you said.
Don't go now...

Steve Grossman:
I'm pretty sure Sandy East has a whole archive of the Ivy Baldwin stuff. Back when he owned the Eldo Mtn School he was in posession. I think he's in Telluride now; maybe Jello or somebody knows more...
dipper

climber
Feb 28, 2007 - 11:06pm PT
Here is the link to the radio piece with Phillipe Petit. His is part of "A September Story", scan down the page at this link:

http://www.npr.org/programs/atc/features/2002/sonicmemorial/

to find the link to the audio.

Edit: The above link takes you to a superset of stories about 9/11 and the WTC. Somber stuff.

The link below:

http://www.sonicmemorial.org/sonic/public/archive.jsp

will take you to a place you can search and find several pieces about Phillipe. I searched on Petit. Enjoy.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2007 - 11:17pm PT
Steve wrote: Anybody have a picture of the old Eldorado Canyon wire between the Wind Tower and The Bastille?

I think Pat Ament does.

Pat...where are you?
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 28, 2007 - 11:27pm PT
Thanks - these are all very cool!
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Feb 28, 2007 - 11:40pm PT
dipper - Thanks, whoever you are... :-)
dipper

climber
Mar 1, 2007 - 12:05am PT
Yer welcome Ksolem.

I'm just a guy that used to climb many years ago.

These threads with images and stories from days gone by are true gems.

The found booty thread reminds me of a Galen slide show I went to long ago.

He showed us a trip up Cerro Torre I think it was(been thinking and believe it was Fitzroy). Mike Graber had his boots stolen on the hike in, then returned after much sleuthing and finessing. They got whacked by a big storm and spent the night(Galen, Mike and ?) up high, shivering and singing on a narrow ledge til dawn. The next day they came upon a large cave filled with gear from a much, much earlier attempt. Alas they made it down and back to the women at the refugio. Not sure if they summited, don't remember.

I may have it mixed up a bit, others certainly know more. Sorry not to post this in that thread. My fingers just felt like typin. Now.

That photo of Ferdinand brought back fond memories. I sometimes shout "Double Cream, Double Sugar" to the young rangers at Tioga, mostly blank stares, some have learned of him. Fernando was the best, always smiling.

Carry on carrying on.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 1, 2007 - 12:29am PT
isn't Philippe Petit the walker in that great black&white photo with St. John the Divine as the terminus? (St. John the unfinished, a work-in-progress cathedral on the upper west side of Manhatten, in my old neighborhood) in 1982...

...the NYTimes has it...


thanks all, this is a very very cool thread!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 1, 2007 - 01:25am PT
Dramatic shot there Ed.
Yes, the forum is a cool place.
'Lotta neat folks hangin' out.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 1, 2007 - 02:17am PT
ksolem,

He's an interesting one alright. I met with him, Steve Wallenda and a few others back in day when I was into walking wire. In fact, back in the mid-80's when I quit Digital Equipment Corp. I went and interviewed with the L’Ecole Nationale de Cirque in Montreal for teaching tight wire and computer science as I also have a teaching degree. The school is wild and one of the main feeds to Cirque de Soleil and all the other circuses. But alas, I never could wrangle the requisite French so didn't manage to make it happen.

I also just missed Ivy Baldwin's wire in Eldo by a year or two as I understand it, but I do have a couple of strands of it as a keepsake. Would love to have seen that last walk when he was 82 - the guy was unbelievable. Did get a couple of stories about him out of old man Fowler back then though.

[url="http://www.earlyaviators.com/ebaldivy.htm" target="new"]William Ivy Baldwin, 1866-1953 - way, way old school...[/url]

[ Notice in the old keystone photo his wire is fully guyed, but in later years he just hung sand bags on it keep it calm - way burlier than having it fully guyed. It's reputed there were some walks when he had to wait out the wind for up to an hour at a time out on it. ]





Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
Mar 1, 2007 - 08:33am PT
Summer 1983. Bouldering, Harriman State Park, NY.

January 1983 [?]. Disneyland, Gunks. Same Strawberry Mountain chalkbag, Wild Things swami [which I still have], pro-deal Friends from working at Eastern Mountain Sports, and Shoe-nards on the feet. Notice the good-old Bonatti 'D' biner on the fixed pin. I remember being so pumped, on other routes, where I could not open that super powerful gate. I still have a bunch of them.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Mar 1, 2007 - 09:04am PT
Hey Chiloe, whudya mean "one last shot?" er whatever you said.
Don't go now...


If things go right I might be back in a week or two to start a thread on "New School Photos."
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 1, 2007 - 10:48am PT
Great wire walking posts! I love this stuff! I think it was Ivy Baldwin who used to rest during line walks by inverting onto his head and relaxing upside down. If you can call that relaxing!

A little closer to the ground, some of us would turn to other means to garner a thrill.


This was taken at a Syndicato Granitica banquet in Flagstaff back in the seventies. A word of caution though before you try this yourself. Tall bottles are the most challenging but spin out with gusto, so a strip of plywood nailed down into dirt or flat grass is the ticket to prevent bottle chipping on a harder surface. Having a bottle shatter with you on top is the horror that you are trying to avoid so footwear matters also. Start with short bottles in a staggered line and work toward tall and straight as you get more comfortable! Have fun with this one!
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Mar 1, 2007 - 11:19am PT
Great stuff. Nominated for best of Supertopo for sure.
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Mar 1, 2007 - 11:25am PT
Ed, My old neighborhood too. 99th and West End Ave... Actually about the time of the event you show above at the Cathedral I was moving to L.A.

Heaylje, amazing stuff.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 2, 2007 - 01:00am PT
Steve, I've seen that before in S.F. one time. It is really, really stout walking tall bottles and, like you say, a great way to break an ankle under the best of circumstances. Hell, walking wide-mouth Mickeys is hard.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 2, 2007 - 01:19am PT
Ksolem,
I lived at 100 St. and Riverside Dr. 1976-1978 then moved up to Tarrytown...
great place, and the 1977 NYC blackout was really wild.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Mar 3, 2007 - 12:47am PT
OK, these shots are amazing - really great. I'm gonna dig mine up and post - soon.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 3, 2007 - 06:58am PT
Marco Fedrizzi back in '86, about to turn turtle on the 'Wizard' at Crow Hill, MA. - Help me Mr. Wizard...

bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2007 - 03:32pm PT
KB on Open Cockpit...1977


11 Mile Canyon.

Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Sep 4, 2010 - 07:24pm PT
A young Kalimon at the Cosumnes River in 1978 . . . EB's, stuff sack chalk bag, Chouinard pants and state of the art Forrest swami with separate leg loops.

Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Sep 4, 2010 - 07:42pm PT

EB's, hexes, painters pants and bandanna stylee.


We ran out of water the evening prior to this photo.

Good times indeed.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Sep 4, 2010 - 07:52pm PT
Pinch Overhang, Ft. Collins, 1976


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 4, 2010 - 08:18pm PT
Nice shot, John!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 4, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
That is a nice shot and a good scan!

hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Sep 4, 2010 - 09:34pm PT
The foamback cagoule shot of RickA is the best Supertopo photo EVER!
This is just a fabulous thread
murf
sempervirens

Trad climber
Trinity County
Sep 4, 2010 - 09:40pm PT
Check out "Man on Wire", the documentary of Phillipe Petit and the wire walk between the twin towers. I rated it excellent.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Sep 4, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
Sep 4, 2010 - 11:20pm PT
Thor, Heise Rock, Idaho circa 1980.


Thor
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Sep 4, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
John-Don't recall seeing that one before! Nice.

Name this climber. Can you imagine using RR's at Suicide?



hooblie

climber
from where the anecdotes roam
Sep 4, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
jogill, the boulders below the beartooth hiway switchbacks (main fork rock creek) bare your name. may we perpetuate the reference with confidence, and garner some details to boot?

pictures perchance?
deepnet

Boulder climber
CA
Sep 4, 2010 - 11:58pm PT
An "I am not worthy" bump
More from jogill please!
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Sep 5, 2010 - 12:25am PT
That is a great shot John G, and another one Rick A, and rik r - you must have quite a collection!

jogill

climber
Colorado
Sep 6, 2010 - 12:02am PT
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Sep 6, 2010 - 01:05am PT
Old shot of myself from '76...(Courtesy of R. Amick)
Before:

And after Photoshop:...
hooblie

climber
from where the anecdotes roam
Sep 6, 2010 - 01:22am PT
wow, mr. gill, i'm a little verklempt. the dust had hardly settled.

when you're toiling in the backwoods, it can feel like dorothy in kansas.
"ya sure, cool don't come our way ... well maybe"

thanks for coming thru
2 l l

Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
Sep 12, 2010 - 03:26am PT
"I was there at that time and did a little bouldering"
That's like Oswald saying he was in Dallas ("at the time") and did a little shooting.
R.B.

Big Wall climber
Land of the Lahar
Sep 12, 2010 - 03:34am PT
Post No. 3 of John Bachar is the Bomb!

I miss johnny rock! RIP

RB
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Sep 12, 2010 - 03:43am PT
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Sep 12, 2010 - 03:24pm PT
Bob D'A That picture of Mr. Bein on 'Open Cockpit'...

Was the image of the F.A of Open Cockpit that appeared as a magazine cover (Climbing?) your image?

Great shot !!!

TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Sep 12, 2010 - 03:28pm PT

Earlier photo:



Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 12, 2010 - 03:29pm PT
good Cosumnes river showing from the 70s and a big rock cameo, nice.
go-B

climber
Jude:24
Sep 12, 2010 - 04:52pm PT
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Sep 12, 2010 - 05:40pm PT
photo courtesy Eric Collins
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Sep 12, 2010 - 07:37pm PT
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Sep 12, 2010 - 08:05pm PT
Dogtown with hair, on the south side of Tahquitz.70's
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Sep 16, 2010 - 12:25am PT
ol' school bump...photo courtesy Bill McConachie

Cedrik

Trad climber
Bishop
Sep 16, 2010 - 12:41am PT
Lover's Leap 1977
I'm the skinny guy with the rack
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Sep 16, 2010 - 12:53am PT
Brazos Peak New Mexico, 1980

TomCochrane

Trad climber
I've lost track...
Sep 16, 2010 - 02:17am PT








Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 16, 2010 - 03:13am PT
Titons and Figure 8's!

Double D

climber
Sep 16, 2010 - 01:28pm PT
This thread is an absolute classic!


Headband...check. Strawberry Mt. chalk bag...check. Two-inch swammi...check. Tube socks...check. White baggies...check. EB's...check. Butt bag...check. Hexes in crack...check.


Wool shirt and knickers a young Bill Price prepares for a winter ascent of the Prow.

ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Sep 16, 2010 - 02:50pm PT
Here's a couple of classics from Boulder 72-74



This last one is classic, cold fall day on 3rd pitch (5.6/5.7) of Wind Ridge (when Ivy's wire was still there). Notice "gripped" leader with slinged nut hooked on horn, blue jeans and patched PA's stepping on rope. We weren't too elegant in the beginning.

chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Sep 16, 2010 - 03:09pm PT
Eldo, early '80s:
BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Sep 16, 2010 - 08:52pm PT
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 16, 2010 - 08:59pm PT
Nice dble slung stoppers, ydpl8s!
BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Sep 16, 2010 - 09:02pm PT
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Sep 16, 2010 - 10:35pm PT
Yosemite Climber Separate Diegleman Reality BUMP!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Sep 17, 2010 - 11:42am PT
Jaybro, yeah it's amazing how many times those things "fit the bill". That's on Comeback Crack (5.10b) on Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon.

I'll say one thing, the racks back then might have been heavier, but they sure took up a lot less space, and we didn't carry the whole kitchen sink (couldn't afford it). I see guys on 1 pitch climbs now that look like they've got enough hardware to rig the Golden Gate.
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Sep 17, 2010 - 12:44pm PT
damn i was born in 1978!

this thread is awesome.

bigity bumb!!!
BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Sep 17, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Sep 17, 2010 - 05:45pm PT
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Sep 17, 2010 - 06:08pm PT
Posted these before, but they seem to fit

BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Sep 17, 2010 - 08:47pm PT
Risk

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
Sep 22, 2010 - 02:13am PT
A 1960 Cathedral Range traverse from Cathedral Peak to Unicorn. According to my dad, "we didn't use the rope, but we brought one."
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Sep 24, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
EB's and DOLT chalk bag 1979 I was 16 Garner Valley California.
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Sep 24, 2010 - 06:20pm PT
Can't Belive the shorts?
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Sep 24, 2010 - 06:25pm PT
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Sep 24, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
bmacd

Trad climber
Grade V, Level III certified KooK 100% Canadian
Sep 24, 2010 - 08:28pm PT
gf was holding the rope while I dawdled on this pitch.
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Sep 27, 2010 - 06:03pm PT
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Sep 27, 2010 - 06:47pm PT
Mike...That last one looks like the traverse going into the Right Ski Track...
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Sep 27, 2010 - 06:57pm PT
I could have guessed this would never get by you, correct you are Mr. Paul
Hope all is well MF.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Sep 27, 2010 - 07:13pm PT
Flash of Crack a go go 1984

Free solo North Overhang 1986

5.11 finger crack Rocklin Ca.1982
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Sep 27, 2010 - 08:45pm PT
Here are some those interesting itty bitty images back atcha with some photoshopping. It shows much you can get out of these Forum images if you work them.







Fogarty

climber
BITD
Sep 27, 2010 - 10:29pm PT
Bump, Peter thanks for the photo shop!
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Sep 27, 2010 - 10:38pm PT

Mamouth Terrace 1984
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Sep 27, 2010 - 11:25pm PT
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Sep 27, 2010 - 11:30pm PT
Pretty cool Peter. Thanks again.
Allen Hill

Social climber
CO.
Sep 28, 2010 - 12:35am PT
Hand Jammer

Trad climber
Bay Area
Sep 29, 2010 - 12:17am PT
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Sep 29, 2010 - 01:46am PT
How fun to see this thread revived...

El Camino, Tahquitz 1978
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Sep 29, 2010 - 06:48am PT

5.8 at River Rock outside of Reno 1982


Dave Lewinter in Tuolemne on Arm and Hammer 5.11b/c


Peruvian Flake 1984


Kurt Smith pre gri gri 1985


donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 29, 2010 - 09:01am PT
So if it's pre Gri Gri it's "old school"....hmmmm.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Sep 29, 2010 - 03:12pm PT
Whatever makes you fell better, or should I say older.....just trying to point out the "bomber" hip belay there D
That Darn French Guy

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Sep 29, 2010 - 03:52pm PT
Fun to see the VW's and the sideburns. :)

For the nostalgics, you can still buy EB's, but you might be disappointed that they sold out to the cartoons fad: Avatar, hellboy, hulk, sonic, patlabor... WTF?! And none of it is a trad shoe.
BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Sep 29, 2010 - 10:00pm PT
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Sep 30, 2010 - 01:19am PT
Cragman....nice headstone photo...brings back memories of good times ...thanks....rj
yedi

Trad climber
Stanwood,wa
Oct 7, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 7, 2010 - 03:09pm PT



pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 7, 2010 - 03:58pm PT


how about a classic FA

Does it count if they're old guard in the new age ?

I admit to pirating this one (just say the word and I'll take it down)
but, I just have to ask, Can that really be Mike McEwen on the left there ?

And finally, Fallen comrades (thanks Larry)
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Nov 8, 2010 - 06:47pm PT
Awesome!!! Thanks for the effort it takes.

re: Adam's Rib
That thing's pretty friggin hard!

KEEP ON SCANNING,POSTING,SCANNING,POSTING, OLD DUDES!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Nov 8, 2010 - 06:59pm PT


My friend Virginia.
richross

Trad climber
Nov 8, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
Bruce Dicks on The V.

Skytop,Gunks mid 80's.




StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 8, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
laurentcoco

Boulder climber
France
Mar 6, 2011 - 02:04am PT
Hi

I am the webmaster of climbing shoes EB, and I enjoyed reading your post, and view photos. I actually wrote a news item on my site with a link to your post. I would like to know if I can use one or two photos in the post, citing the photo credits of course, and I also looking for photos of old climbing shoes EB.
For the names of climbing shoes and cartoons, we need to change the image to stick to the market, but our climbing shoes are still very good climbing shoes, as was his time in the "Super Gratton or PA "

Thanks
Sorry if my english is not perfect
MisterE

Social climber
Cinderella Story, Outa Nowhere
Mar 6, 2011 - 02:08am PT
Blast from the past!

Still got that sexy, casual-crushing look (dolphin shorts optional), I would presume?
pecall

Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Jul 27, 2012 - 05:54am PT

Painters' pants, drilled hexes, Forrest harness. Swami belts were going out of style.


A bit much gear for a free attempt on a one-pitch route?


Prior to pre-inspection an cleaning routes on rappel.

I love the nostalgia that this thread has set off. Keep the pics coming.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 27, 2012 - 11:45am PT
Pecall, did I meet you in Stockholm in '78? I was hanging with Christer Åstrand,
Lasse Cronlund, and Kenneth Westman.

Häggsta




Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
Apr 7, 2015 - 08:16am PT
The wife and I on Mount Olympus early 1980's

Gorgeous George

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Apr 7, 2015 - 11:30am PT
cintune

climber
The Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Apr 7, 2015 - 11:42am PT
Goldline & swami holdouts, ~1982.

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 7, 2015 - 06:06pm PT
Nice stuff!
Risk

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
Apr 7, 2015 - 06:13pm PT
Old Timer's even BITD

Cathedral Range Scramble, early 1960's
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Apr 7, 2015 - 07:23pm PT
Nice thread!
these pictures were posted on the Stoney point thread by Ken Bosch.
a real Old Skooler!!
Boodawg Stoney point
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Apr 7, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
TMJesse, Tell me more about those pics. They're awesome! Those guys seem to be really clear about having a good time.
Risk

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
Apr 7, 2015 - 08:19pm PT
The top photo - taken about 1960 is of my dad (center) and his friend "Danner" (left) on some weekend outing where they evidently brought plenty of wine. The second is of my uncle Dick Brown, about 1962. Dad and Dick did a so-called "full traverse" from Cathedral to Unicorn, supposedly including Mathes Crest. I'm not 100% sure - they probably topped echo ridge, but not the full traverse of Mathes. They brought a rope, but barely use it, reportedly. Meanwhile, I was hanging out at the campground or Lake Tenaya.


Yeti

Trad climber
Ketchum, Idaho
Apr 8, 2015 - 09:33am PT
Souis Stur, Jerry Fuller, Fred Beckey in Sawtooth Mountains, Idaho 1960s
Rollover

climber
Gross Vegas
Oct 8, 2015 - 06:27pm PT
BBST
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Oct 8, 2015 - 08:57pm PT

This postcard from 1904 predicts the level of climbing activity on Barbarine (Elbsandsteingebirge) in 1910.

And you guys thought you were posting "Old School" !
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Oct 9, 2015 - 05:06am PT
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
Oct 11, 2015 - 11:54am PT
Some old snapshots I just scanned of a trip to Blodgett Canyon in summer of 1980








yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
Oct 11, 2015 - 06:41pm PT




Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Oct 11, 2015 - 09:07pm PT

Some pics from a few years back.
Joron

Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
Oct 12, 2015 - 10:52am PT
Mt Stuart, 1976

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