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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 02:19pm PT
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Great stuff, all! Chiloe, that Bishop offwidth crack is a good one. Also (OT), the vertical line coming out of the pod on the left side of the photo, is the best finger crack in CO, in my opinion, but quite hard, at 12-something.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 02:33pm PT
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Talked about Icarus on Sundance at the beginning of this thread. There is as yet an unclimbed offwidth through the same roof-band that Icarus and Turncorner go through, this one to the left of TurnKorner. I actually set out to climb it with Charlie Fowler in 1979. We climbed four pitches up to a stance underneath the roof, before traversing left into the line of Mr. President. Charlie had taken a fall on the pitch leading up to the stance under the roof, and the passed the lead to me. I managed to avoid pulling off any of the loose holds (there weren't many, actually), and got us to the stance. Thirty feet above looms a rounded 6" crack through a fifteen-foot roof. Charlie was turned off, so into Mr President he took us. I've always thought the roof and cracks above would finish our line - which is called Laura Scudders - off properly (see green line on photo). The offwidth looks considerably harder than Icarus, though.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 25, 2007 - 07:54pm PT
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Jeff,
When things melt out I'll enjoy some rock ogling up at Sundance and look for that thing. That 5.9 squeeze chimney 1st pitch of Mr Pres is pretty cool (even if it does have a "cheater" crack in the back, hehe).
Nice description of the falling 'biner Steve, right now I can see it going...Poof!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 25, 2007 - 08:31pm PT
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Man,I think I'll get younger, start over and do all the stuff Jello didn't quite get to; Lumpy, Eldo, the bugs, what am I missing?
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2007 - 08:33pm PT
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Jaybro; ".... what am I missing?"
A young body.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Feb 26, 2007 - 10:52pm PT
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Steve,
You need to start a whole thread of nothing but "And only Dick Cilley would call you a pussy for_." In the meantime, care to share some lore from your clean ascent of the Muir?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 27, 2007 - 03:11pm PT
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Plenty of room
Ed-note, wihte pants/red shirt
Werner-Too true!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 28, 2007 - 02:28am PT
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MartyR,there was a Dick Cilley appreciation thread not long ago with the original tape pussy accusation. Check it out. The Muir eh???
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 28, 2007 - 02:33am PT
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excellent picture!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Feb 28, 2007 - 08:24am PT
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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I had a complete first generation set of tube chocks and, as a testimony to my sanity, am proud to say I never used 'em.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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That is a great picture, Jay
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Thanks
Quality due, no doubt, to the high tech equipment; a kodak disposable with shoelace taped on for lanyard.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Ecalante Canyon. It was a little overhung.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Like all of these pics. So Ray, as a contrast to the full set of tubes, I had exactly one tube chock for pretty much my whole climbing career. Placed it on just about every wide crack climb I ever did.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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So Cuck, is that the same dealio in both photos? i've drooled on the B & W one before, but the color one with the wider perspective gives it a, wider perspective. Is it presumptious to request location/approach beta?
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lemon_boy
climber
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escalante canyon is the vedauwoo of the desert. it is absolutely obscene how many awesome offwidths are in this canyon. i wonder how many long sleeve t-shirts i've blown out in this canyon. man, i would love to be sponsored by some long sleeve t-shirt company....
jesse(?) is it true that matt put up 4-wheel low late 90's/early 2000? for some reason i had always called it aunt jemima's hand stacks, and thought it was put up by cameron teague. wouldn't be the first time i was on crack though...
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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First photo is me, the second is my friend on it. I had no clue who did it and posted the route on Mountain Project. Stewart Green posted and corrected the first ascent. Escalente has so many climbs and I have only ever seen NOLS kids out there near the Cave. Would be nice to one day have a guidebook for it. Only Desert Rock has a few routes. In Desert Route it is said that to descend from S-crack you must down climb it. HAH.
LEmon Boy, YOu from around these parts? YOu ever go to a section of escalante ( I am sorry for being vague) where you hike up on your right and there is a 11+ finger crack on the left or you can go straight up the supposed 12- offwidth with 45 degree 10 foot long roof. Both climbs lead to the same anchors via a bit of chimney?
Jesse.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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People still climb in that urban wasteland known as vedauwoo?
Okay, those stanleys and loyds rock! no way I'd wear a hellmute there, though, and tape only on an ... evulsion ...
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