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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 19, 2007 - 01:31pm PT
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I can remember during my first few years in the Valley I could only afford one pair of good shoes at a time and I always got them skin tight in order to boulder and face climb. Heel and toe jamming was torturous in those tight boots. I remember lybacking some off-size climbs just so my feet wouldn't start crying.
JL
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 19, 2007 - 02:05pm PT
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That was one advantage to RRs--no foot pain.
Anyway, Jeff, as a friend of mine at the time qouted to me, "It's the singer, not the song."
Hey, John did you ever wear Kronhofers? Did anyone posting on ST ever wear them? Maybe Stannard and his Eastern cohorts.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 19, 2007 - 02:13pm PT
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I had some grey shoes in the early 1970s, but can't remember their name. They were much like RRs - solid grey, toe but no heel cap (?), stiff, light vibram sole. I got them at REI in 1972. They weren't Kronhoffer's, but what were they?
The grey shoes, and RRs, were quite good for climbing at Squamish in the early 1970s. Lots of mixed climbing (free/aid), most of the friction was edgeable. With flexible legs, you could sort of smear with them.
We used to go to REI or the Swallow's Nest in Seattle to get gear, usually en route to Leavenworth or Yosemite. Eric was the first to catch on to RDs (Rene Desmaison - the brown, smooth sole shoes) and then EBs, in late 1973. There were a few other shoes of similar ilk that appeared at the same time, but I can't remember their names. I don't think they were ever very popular, although the EB was undeservedly popular, and a classic case of abuse of a near-monopoly.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Feb 19, 2007 - 02:16pm PT
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It seems that when I was too poor to afford two or more pairs of shoes, I always went tight, so wide was murderous like JL says, liebacking to follow a climb was almost de rigeur (sp?).
Jello, I figure bombays have to be completely horizontal, or almost so. Flares though are vague and nebulous, but anything with an edge to the crack that is rounded can count, specifically where you can't utilize your feet where you could normally using an outside edge.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Feb 19, 2007 - 05:19pm PT
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That is a 'Scuffwidth' sized crack.
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 20, 2007 - 01:13am PT
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Largo, speaking of OW horror. If you don't mind sharing this one again, how about a tale of your singular and personal approach to managing the Harding Slot. I think it qualifies as OW for you, mighty one.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 20, 2007 - 01:27am PT
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Hey Roger,
Whaddaya mean, -um to paraphrase, "Grey shoes people usetah climb in."
...these proud hush puppies are actualy a Kronie copy, called a Voyager Directissima and I got em new, outa the box, just last year.
I've also gone through 3 pair of Robbin's boots in the last 10 years, all used for lots of mileage and 4th/easy 5th in the mountains.
Plus, 'seen it with my own dope adled eyes, John Lonne strolling New Gen, a 5.11 at Suicide Rock, in them Blue Bazookas.
I know, I know, whudever Roy.
Back to you John Long...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Feb 20, 2007 - 01:29am PT
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hrm makes me think about the Narrows.
Has anyone actually taken a tape measure with them on Steck and measured how wide that squeeze is?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 20, 2007 - 01:35am PT
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Mungie,
I'm guessin' The Narrows is about 11"
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 20, 2007 - 02:19am PT
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Wes & steelmnkey
Those are great photos.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Feb 20, 2007 - 02:28am PT
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These two shots are of Innervisions, Disneyland Dome, Josh. I got in a big tube up high and some junky tcu in a flake inside. Pretty stout for 5.9
This is a new route in Josh near the Mystic Cove. 5.11 ish.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 20, 2007 - 02:47am PT
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Hmm? I'll get the scanner going, soon.
I tend to throw anything bigger than fists and less then almost full thigh width into the category of offwidth. I think of squeeze chimneys as a subset of OW, more than one of chimenys.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 20, 2007 - 08:56am PT
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Hi Kevin,
"...I remember wearing them (Kronhofers) every day to class also, probably one of the reasons why all the chicks steered clear of the climber freak..."
That is too funny. And somehow we all managed to make it this far.
I have started a new book, “A History of Climbing in 6 Shoes.” Interesting read. Never really thought about climbers all sharing the same fetish.
Buzz
Gotta fix my PCs--today I cannot see any of the pictures on either my office portable or my home desk top. The one expressing "I golf in my other life," is a classic. It that you 'steelmnkey?'
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 20, 2007 - 09:20am PT
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A shot of Brutus in The Narrows (from the Brutus appreciation thread). With my 46" chest, I chose to squiggle to the outside and climb up that way. It was too late in the day to be horsing around with a stuck monkey!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 20, 2007 - 09:29am PT
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Wow, a 46' chest! Are you like a porn star or somethin?
Redefines the whole off-width/squeeze chimney debate.
Just teasing, Buzz
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 20, 2007 - 09:41am PT
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Hell, Largo probably had a 46 inch chest when he was 11.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 20, 2007 - 02:26pm PT
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Porn star Buck Naked, that's me! NOT!
Here's a shot of the one time I just HAD to get that
#5 Big Bro out and scuffed up. It was a Christmas present
from my wife. What a gal!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Feb 20, 2007 - 02:35pm PT
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Nice pic of a bro in action, SteelMonkey. Never seen one set before.
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Moof
Trad climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Feb 20, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
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Love the #5. It's the only piece of gear I've placed BEHIND myself. Of course, that's the ONLY time I've actually placed it...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 20, 2007 - 03:35pm PT
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Not sure I would have wanted to tumble down that chimney and hope that #5 would hold, but it was mostly just about USING it that day.
Me 'n my buddy on the summit!
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