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Nolan Huther
Trad climber
Potsdam, NY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 13, 2019 - 06:48am PT
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Happy Saturday, hope all the weekend warriors out there are having some nice weather. Anyway, I'm looking to fill out my set of Crack N Ups, specifically sizes 3, 4, and 5. Let me know if you've got some you're looking to dust off and put in an envelope!
Edit: to clarify, I am looking to buy them, if there was any confusion in spite of the title. Name your price.
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Nolan Huther
Trad climber
Potsdam, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2019 - 07:58am PT
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Bump. Anyone looking to unload a couple of them to a broke college student (soon to be college graduate) with an unhealthy obsession for thin cracks?
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klaus
Big Wall climber
6th and Mission
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Apr 17, 2019 - 10:17am PT
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I have a stack of them to get rid of. What's your email?
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Apr 17, 2019 - 12:44pm PT
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I'll takes some!
How much?
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Nolan Huther
Trad climber
Potsdam, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2019 - 04:43pm PT
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Klaus, it's nolanhuther@gmail.com. Look forward to hearing from ya!
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Nolan Huther
Trad climber
Potsdam, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2019 - 06:59pm PT
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Still looking!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 23, 2019 - 02:29am PT
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Nolan Huther
Trad climber
Potsdam, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2019 - 06:45am PT
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healyje, you wouldn't be looking to part with those beauties now would you?
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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Apr 28, 2019 - 12:42pm PT
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i have a set of Bridwell’s
Peace
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Nolan Huther
Trad climber
Potsdam, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2019 - 07:12pm PT
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Give my crack n ups some friends
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 30, 2019 - 08:23pm PT
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Sorry - pry my cold dead hands...
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Nolan Huther
Trad climber
Potsdam, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2019 - 06:01am PT
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I figured. I "stole" your method of rigging them too btw, so thanks for that. Just about anywhere I saw crack n ups mentioned I saw your set of them. Very ingenious, simple yet elegant. These babies feel absolutely bomber compared to an equivalent RP size. I'll be toying with them a while before taking them into real terrain, but I am impressed with them so far.
Hopefully I can convince someone to take their crack n ups out of some dusty drawer and send them on to my rack. Only have a #2 and x2 #6s. Would very much like to at least get the #4 and #5. That #2 gives me shivers.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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Nolan, yer thread starts with....WTB
Want To Buy, you’ve made no offers and sounds like these CnU can fetch a good price. Now it sounds like you want people to give them to you. They are sketch at best to stand on with the exception of the 5or 6 and even those need good placement. Hope you find someone willing to give em up
Peace
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Nolan Huther
Trad climber
Potsdam, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2019 - 09:21am PT
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I've privately talked to a few people in this thread and elsewhere but somehow everyone winds up changing their minds and wanting to hold onto them. Nostalgia I suppose. Oh and one person asked a bit over what I was willing to pay but I'll probably go back to them if no one else comes forward. But the seller can decide their price. I've bought them for $20 shipped a piece, if that makes any difference, and I'm not looking for people to give them away.
My initial excitement is due to the fact that I quickly found thin cracks with tedious RP placements that took great placements of the #6 crack n up. They make sense to me, they seem familiar to mixed climbing with pick torques and the placements I had took quite a beating with testing and held fine. Maybe it's the rock type I climb on or future experience will change my perception
Also Ron, I sent you an email a bit back about your post above. Did you ever see it?
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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Nolan, if yer using the email with Supertopo, I don’t think it has worked for years. I have nothing in my email....sorry.
Peace
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Nolan Huther
Trad climber
Potsdam, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2019 - 09:30am PT
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Sorry about the confusion then Ron. I'd be willing to buy some your crack n ups if you're willing to sell for a fair price
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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An outdated and worthless status symbol for "I'm such a hard climber". Listed facetiously as pro for sik routes up to about 11c - however were probably not actually used by the FA. Note Bridwell's appear to have never been placed. Such a useful and successful product, like 1 production batch ever was made - 40 years ago. Lol - here's some 20-something looking for a rack of them.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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Pretty entertaining! Never saw anyone bounce test one, let alone fall on one and yeah, probably not putting up a string of them...so it makes sense crack n ups are not beat to hell. The few I’ve placed were hand inserted, weighted gently then moved off as quickly as possible...maybe the # 5or 6 were secure, but I’d rather use a pin or something I could bounce test or the very least beat the hell out of if A 5 or 6 are used. But what does an old fart like me know, should listen to the wise words posted, they are outdated, much better gear now for micro cracks, status symbol(?) well ok, hard climber...Jim was pretty good at one time.
Peace
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Late Starter
Social climber
NA
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Wouldn't a pecker/tomahawk pretty much do the same darn thing...?
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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Yup, hence, outdated, better stuff out there for micro cracks.
Peace
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Nolan Huther
Trad climber
Potsdam, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2019 - 10:52am PT
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A better status symbol nowadays are totems and ultralight camalots. I'm more interested in the crack n ups because I have a few 11+/12-s I'm interested in this season or next with phrases like "testpiece RP crack climbing" in descriptions. I had to spend some time on the couch this winter and stumbled across the crack n ups and coincidentally saw a few random sizes for sale on Mountain Project. After using some spare parts to rig them like healyje has above, I really thought they were neat and could be useful for a little mental security on a thin move, or for clean aid with irregular thin cracks, sort of like a cam hook/nut hybrid. I also just really enjoy climbing on RPs because of the care required to place them, and the reward of them holding.
On crack n ups versus other hand placed hooks, the camming action of the offset stem is a benefit. They're still new to me but like I said, it feels like the satisfying response of a good pick torque on a mixed route. Would be easier handling them than RPs with gloves on, in my opinion, so they probably wouldn't be that bad for winter protection and less work for the follower than nailing, but real pins would be more confidence inspiring.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Name these routes.
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Nolan Huther
Trad climber
Potsdam, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2019 - 11:14am PT
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Ok? They're in the Adirondacks, a few are obscure. Hidden Constellations 11d, Spooks 11d, Gun Control Now 11d, Doc Theo 11c, and for some routes I'd like to develop (with one in particular that would likely be 11/12-), plus for an aid route for a hard seam that I've made a goal for the next few years to make a free attempt (which is probably 11+/12-). A friend also wants to use them for multipitch route development in his backcountry playground, explicitly on a route he bailed off of saying that they'd be perfect. Crack n ups are also explicitly called for a interesting looking 10 called True North, which is apparently a nice pitch.
Anything else? Wanna know my social security number?
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Looks like a nice hard landing on this one. Hope your worthless voodoo BS pro holds. Better climbers amidst longer and healthier careers tend to stick with gear that's proven time and again to actually hold falls.
http://www.mountainproject.com/photo/112498085
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Yup, hence, outdated, better stuff out there for micro cracks.
Peace
BITD while living in Dallas there was a 60' limestone face (5.7ish). Only pro was a number 4 CnU about halfway up. Purely psychological, wouldn't have held a fall fer sh#t.
Had a full set, but got lost with a whole lot of other old school gear gear in a haul bag that was lost in a move. Contents would be worth thousands today on ebay.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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Bummer about that lost gear John! Only used CnUps for aid and only #2 n 3’s....small seam
Peace
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Bummer about that lost gear John!
Yeah, had a boatload of aid, clean and ice gear in it. Everything Bought from 1977 to 1993. Forrest, Chouinard, Leeper, SMC, Friends and others.
Not as large of a collection as many here, but was pretty substantial. A lot of obscure pieces.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I only use them for free climbing and have taken a 30 footer onto a #3. Hardly ever done a free FA without having and using them. Will generally take them and Ballnuts over RP's and similar micronuts.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Name some routes.
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Late Starter
Social climber
NA
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Grumpy, bitter keyboard warriors are fun. My theory as to why this site is dying....way too much negativity. This one^^ seems like they'd be fun at parties.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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healyje is long and well known as the internet's biggest talking sketch trad wanker. If some young kid is picking up on that in, frankly, a dangerous way, I think it's reasonable - and rather entertaining - to call out the specifics.
So - the 30 foot fall - what route?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 17, 2019 - 12:13pm PT
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Second ascent attempt of Rain in Eldo on a #3.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 17, 2019 - 12:22pm PT
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"JLP wrote: An outdated and worthless status symbol for "I'm such a hard climber". Listed facetiously as pro for sik routes up to about 11c - however were probably not actually used by the FA. Note Bridwell's appear to have never been placed. Such a useful and successful product, like 1 production batch ever was made - 40 years ago. Lol - here's some 20-something looking for a rack of them.
Well, that's was complete nonsense...
Late Starter wrote: Wouldn't a pecker/tomahawk pretty much do the same darn thing...?
Not really, often too thick and not dual-sided...
ron gomez wrote: Yup, hence, outdated, better stuff out there for micro cracks.
See above. I've used every form of pro there is or has been for marginal placements when free climbing. Nothing else compares to the #3-5 Crack N Ups and the #2-4 Ball nuts in the size and I've taken falls on all of them including six 25-30 foot falls in a row on a #3 ballnut (came right out as well).
JLP wrote: gear that's proven time and again to actually hold falls.
So what would this magical [modern] gear be?
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 17, 2019 - 02:19pm PT
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Or better yet....
"Are you a Happy person JLP?"
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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May 17, 2019 - 02:34pm PT
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A valid and frequent forum topic of discussion is to call out BS when presented then argue about it - which we can continue on 6/2.
vvvvvv There's nothing to sidestep. Nobody places this ancient aid climbing crap on Rain, nor do many even fall because it's not a hard route. The FA was in 1975.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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May 17, 2019 - 05:53pm PT
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Very good and valid question Joe....noticed it gets sidestepped with a diversion statement.
Peace
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 18, 2019 - 02:03am PT
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JLP Wrote: Nobody places this ancient aid climbing crap on Rain, nor do many even fall because it's not a hard route.
No doubt forty years later...
The FA was in 1975.
Yep, I had just done my first ever lead solo on the Bastille Crack and afterward was sitting three feet from the final moves of Rain smoking a joint as Davy was trying to finish the FA and took two savage 50-60 footers in a row before calling it a day. I tried to do a second ascent the day after the FA but was a bit out of my league having only been climbing for a little over a year and it was my first trip to Eldo (or anywhere multipitch). But I can assure you in 1975 it was a hard route.
JLP wrote: gear that's proven time and again to actually hold falls.
And again, what is this magical modern gear that's better at holding free climbing falls in thin marginal placements?
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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May 18, 2019 - 07:14pm PT
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I'm with you, healyje.
Crack-n-ups 3-5 are awesome! A testament to Tom Frost's brilliance.
Better than the RP type stuff 90% of the time and stronger!
Particuarly good on basalt and similar rock. Great thin pro for cloud walking!
They have a stopper type taper that beaks and tomahaws don't have though they are awesome in their own right.
Have some and would love to have a few more.
And, yes, they hold falls - though the thought of 30' gives me the hebe jebe's.
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| Messages 1 - 38 of total 38 in this topic |
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