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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 3, 2019 - 05:37pm PT
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Hello Supertopo.
i was recently diagnosed with hallux limitus, and need to wear comfy+ very stiff shoes to give my big toe support. My TC pros were not sufficient!
I just got a pair of board-lasted ballet golds, which seem to provide enough support, though are a very low-performance shape with low-friction rubber...
My question is-- is there any performance to be gained by switching to the aces? Are they a bit more asymetric/downturned? Or is the difference between the ballet golds and the aces pretty marginal?
thanks
matt
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Quite a difference really...Ballet Golds' are stiffer with a thicker sole than the Ace as well as having mid length upper high top design. Solution : buy lightly used regular Ballet and resole with Onyx.
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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2019 - 08:31pm PT
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Thanks for the reply.
Do both shoes have a full length board last?
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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You must be lost - we are only here to talk about Trump and other intestinal diseases.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Both models are board lasted...beware of direct sun on a hot day with the Ace*
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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They also fit (my feet) very differently and just feel like completely different shoes. I love the Ballets and have worn out many pairs. I bought one pair of Aces and must have given them away. To me Aces feel like the worst of all shoes. They felt like they would last 1/4 the time. They seem to be trying to be slippers, but don't have the sensitivity. I have pretty wide feet. IMESHO
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Zoltani
Trad climber
LV, NV
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The golds are good for people with foot problems, don't have experience with aces. First thing to do with either resole them. The rubber is the hardest, slipperiest rubber I have tried.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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As noted, fit comes first, they aren't at all the same shape. I've got a pair of the Ballet Golds purchased in pursuit of an all day shoe that won't set my Morton's Neuroma on fire. Aces didn't fit the same at all.
These are not a high performance shoe, but they've worked well on those Grade IV Red Rocks moderates. I'm about at the resole with better rubber phase, but the Boreal last suits my wide weird feet. Not that the dark blue of these shoes is not appreciably more comfortable than the black Aces when you're standing around in a full sun belay. You'll wind up taking the shoes off or trying to stuff them into the shade somewhere.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Sorry
I waited for a day...
Thread hi-jack in the search for the right shoes
1st enter for consideration these edging monsters
steel capped flaming work shoes?
The Modern Ace is NO LONGER BLACK & not as stiff as the all black old version.
The same is true for the Ballet & the Ballet Gold
THE ORIGINAL(above) HAD A LEATHER BACKED CARDBOARD
The Ballett GoldHas a (waxed?) all cardboard, which goes to crap in one season depending
Now a days
Sportiva made a shoe (Nagaro?) I blew thru a pair in 30-40 pitches after modifying, adding wood popsicle sticks.
That led to looking for the better made vintage shoes. Scarpa used to make the Gold Standard stiff shoe; the Le'Menstrals.
Stiff high-tops - I have a few burnt pairs (among a dozen or so others)
of what has always been my long day 'boot' The Blue Kaukalator
a modern answer Sportiva makes a Mega, called a Dru
If The Shoe Fits!!
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116586897/fs-scarpa-big-wallvia-ferrata-boots-sz-42-60ship
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116577396/boreal-ballet-gold-vs-aces#ForumMessage-116580929
is that your thread?
More to the point is really the need to add a stiff plate-insert, of wood "spring-steel" or carbon-fiber.
I found that chocolate dipped dove bars came with flat short stubby wooden sticks that fit my feet.
The stick ran from the tip of my big toe back to the end of the ball of my foot, helping to immobilize the joints .
I have worked with variations. Tapping the toe & stick, is annoying but worked. fixing the stick to the inside of the shoe also works well.
I found a Mamute "Gremlin" an aggressive asymmetric, but not downturned, yellow velcro closing slipper/shoe and re-built the inside adding the popsicle sticks to a layer of "Sorbothane" orthotic insert.
In the Link below a very good number of well-respected climbers discuss the more expensive but better options of carbon fiber & "spring-steel"
inserts. I may have missed it but the shape and depth of the heel area of a shoe is often critical to performance.
My need for a high-performance shoe seemed to be inversely affected by the need to consume Dove bars to attain the popsicle sticks. Your ability & self-control or the existence of a ravenous significant other to help limit consumption may lead you to better results.
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116565991/stiffest-climbing-shoe-for-an-injured-toe?page=2#ForumMessage-116580956
Asking for a friend?
(sure ~ we all miss ~ what's his name? the blue'd glue'd 'stashed sniffer)
the Scarpa "Force"(?) has a deep heel-cup matched with a stiff 'chisel-shaped'toe.
A dark green all leather slipper like lace up, that turned into a ninja 'natural black' over time was a the best tight-fitting high-performance shoe I ever found.
They were available for something like 5 years? Beginning in the late 90s into the start of the century.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Even though this has nothing to do with these above, Boreal Vectors were the Best shoe they made period.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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I loved the Vectors. When Boreal quit being imported to the US, Bachar worked with Mexican shoe manufacturer Acopa and made the "Specters" virtually identical to the Vectors. I climbed in them for several years until after John died; in fact I still climb in my last pair sometimes.
The manufacturers of Acopa produce shoes here in Guadalajara under the brand name Rock On. Guess what: They make a shoe much like the Vector (they cost about $40 a pair here). Rumor has it that the Acopa brand is being revived and will be imported to the US again.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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I like the Diablos
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Rankin
Social climber
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
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I always preferred the Ace to the Ballet Gold which seemed clunky and imprecise in comparison. The new version of the Ace looks pretty sweet but I can't speak to the rubber.
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