Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 25 of total 25 in this topic |
crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Feb 24, 2019 - 05:51pm PT
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So stoked for them, felt like it was our friends winning!
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Feb 24, 2019 - 07:58pm PT
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AWESOME!!!
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Feb 25, 2019 - 05:18am PT
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I realise that getting up and speaking to such an audience must be a frightening ordeal, but that speech was a disgrace from beginning to end. It could have been so good...
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Feb 25, 2019 - 06:52am PT
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Yeah - Elizabeth’s speech didn’t seem to go well, who would’t be nervous - but Jimmy nailed it - “Holy shit” - was bleeped out - I get the impression he didn’t reailze he was on a mic.
I dunno - the endless cycle over the past decade - send it, film it, host a screening somewhere - it was getting old watching everyone trying to best one another - and then this - do we get a break now for awhile? Nobody will ever top this - just no way - free solo El Cap - worldwide film and IMAX - then an Oscar —> f’n insane.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 25, 2019 - 07:20am PT
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Well Alex's tux is cooler than mine, but the real Oscars fashion statement was Lady Gaga wearing the 128 carat diamond that Tiffany bought in the 19th century and hasn't been seen in public since Audrey Hepburn wore it over a half century ago.
IMHO the worst was one of the world's most beautiful woman, Angela Bassett, with a parasail on her shoulder.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Feb 25, 2019 - 07:26am PT
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Great news especially as Elizabeth and Jimmy will be well funded for future projects.
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A Essex
climber
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Feb 25, 2019 - 07:28am PT
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So glad Sanni got the recognition she deserves
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bobinc
Trad climber
Portland, Or
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Feb 25, 2019 - 07:42am PT
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The gearpatrol link above is pretty good- listen to the first part of the interview, especially: '... just spent all morning at the gym, pretty worked, so it's time for some lunch and then ... get fired up...' for the Oscars...
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 25, 2019 - 07:48am PT
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Feb 25, 2019 - 11:47am PT
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The speech is on YouTube, so I saw it.
Who cares? I thought that the film was excellent. Most climbing movies are boring. I don’t know why. This one was very good. They stitched years of filming into a good story, one that everyone can become involved in.
So much of film making is editing. They did a very good job of cobbling together those years of footage, and told a good story.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Feb 25, 2019 - 01:25pm PT
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I think it was interesting because Elizabeth brought the human component into things as she did with the final Meru cut. She is not a climber so likes telling a different kind of story.
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Feb 25, 2019 - 02:18pm PT
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Most climbing movies are boring. I don’t know why. Because there is no human interest in those films. Elizabeth added that to this film. In fact I saw an interview where Elizabeth told Jimmy she was turning this into a love story.
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couchmaster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2019 - 09:59am PT
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^^^HOLY CRAP^^^ skied down K2? Unbelievable. Is nothing now impossible?
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 26, 2019 - 08:30pm PT
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If anyone ever repeats what Alex did, my guess is it will be someone from Eastern Europe. I am a history buff. Of all the Countries affected by WW 2, Poland lost the largest percentage of its population, around one fifth. To put into perspective, the U.S losses, at that rate would have been about 25,000,000.
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Jim Hornibrook
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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Feb 26, 2019 - 10:07pm PT
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"This film would be so boring without you..." Chai said to Sonni in front of millions of people. I am certain that Chai and Jimmy and Alex know, love and respect one another, but that statement was so insulting to Alex's achievement. And while I'm sure this added human element was necessary to the movie's widespread appeal and crucial to its winning the Oscar it is clearly far less important to the film's success than Alex's amazing ropeless ascent of El Cap.
For me Chai's statement detracted from such a proud and beautiful moment for Alex and our climbing community.
I was lucky enough to climb Free Blast the day after Alex made his ascent. I took a fall on the 5.11 slab pitch and was happy to have a rope. On Heart Ledge rapping down I encountered a water bottles labeled "Bambi", reminding me of the most profound achievement that had occurred the previous day. I am proud to be part of Yosemite's climbing tribe. I'm so amazed by Alex's ability and vision. And I am relieved he succeeded in reaching his goal.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Feb 27, 2019 - 01:40am PT
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They all have reseeding hairlines, and rented tuxedos.
To redeem himself, Honnold will now have to solo Southern Belle.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Feb 27, 2019 - 02:58am PT
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that speech sucked monkey balls.
Now here's a speech worth watching from the same night:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 27, 2019 - 04:13am PT
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Jim, she didn't say, "This climb would be so boring without you." She said, "This film...." she knows movies, what works, what sells; she did the same thing with "Meru" after Chin asked for her help.
Her comments were directed to the Academy, which gave the award. The campaigning for an award is so fierce, every thing matters, just like hard climbing. Clearing, Sanni's role was decisive.
Anyway, as a climbing movie, I found "The Dawn Wall" much more interesting than "Free Solo." The most interesting issue Honnold faces, in my opinion, was the relaxation of certainty in climbing the slab. While "How certain is good enough" is the most important issue in free soloing, this only received passing notice in "Free Solo." Too bad, given that the issue was shown more light in Alex' book.
The whole process of free soloing is mental until the act itself, Hamlet like--"...Readiness is all...."--whereas a big climb like the Dawn Wall all-free is a mix of internal struggles and action the whole way through.
Given the box office receipts, I'm clearly in the minority.
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A Essex
climber
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Feb 27, 2019 - 07:13am PT
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Chai 'doesn;t give a fvck about climbing' - her own words
but she does seem to have a crush on Sanni
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AE
climber
Boulder, CO
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Mar 22, 2019 - 12:52pm PT
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It's absurdly apropos that this thread has some 34 ticks to date, while the one about "Hardest 5.8 at J Tree" was 98+.
At least herein, climbers represent as sport-centric morons, by and large.
I was very surprised other more mainstream Documentaries, particularly, RBG, lost to what I felt was a neck-in-neck tie for best overall rock climbing film of all time, nothing else even close. Hollywood efforts always embarrass the blokes who get hired to work as high-risk grips, and the sad demise of Gullich, driving home after finishing the abominable Cliffhanger, should serve as a testament, regarding what one'e efforts leave as an inadvertent epitaph to a life's pursuit.
Climbers reacted differently to the Dawn Wall movie. I guessed its original budget was pretty minuscule, and got amped up as they garnered historic publicity and built tension as the top seemed attainable, but far from certain. Its emphasis on the team over a single person's talent seems old-fashioned, yet honest; the back story history was too belabored, clearly as filler to make a feature length, and it diminished the focus.
Free Solo was well-balanced, cohesively strong on Alex as the star figure, but providing compelling human perspectives, and what I especially appreciated, the near-total lack of typical machismo chest thumping by the crew. Their sober aspects underscored the seriousness of the effort more than any words, or images.
They mostly kept it real, exploring Alex's personal vision without bombast, contrived metaphorical gibberish about "Human Advancement" or other "For the Fatherland" manifestos. Perhaps Oscar voters have grown jaded with the usual self-righteous, Worthy Cause documentaries that serve up genuine suffering or calamities, but from First World crews who have safe homes to return to afterwards. Every complicated agenda rings hollow, in the face of a solitary individual dedicated entirely to an unimaginable quest, and that was essentially the winning element in Free Solo.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 22, 2019 - 08:46pm PT
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It's absurdly apropos that this thread has some 34 ticks to date, while the one about "Hardest 5.8 at J Tree" was 98+.
At least herein, climbers represent as sport-centric morons, by and large.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=3121266&tn=900
I'm kinda pullin' for the "hardest 5.8 at J Tree" to hit a 1000 posts...
Ha ha.
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