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Ahwahnee Bartender
Big Wall climber
Fog Town
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 15, 2019 - 01:32pm PT
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Oh yes, it was only a matter of time, and of course the most nights spent on El Cap by a human being (AKA: Vertical Camping). And now, the book. I guess Pete's assistance with Chongo's book was just the beginning. Years ago, I suggested that Pete be honored with the title: El Cap Ambassador to the World. His book should finally cement that title into common usage.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 15, 2019 - 01:48pm PT
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Hey Theo!
Long time, no talk, eh? Theo once help me set up a Dr. Piton website, but it was just too much work for me.
The book was easier, though - I had pretty much written it online over the last twenty years, with all of my various how-to posts.
So yes, "THE BOOK" is pretty much finished. We don't even have a title for it, though. I want to call it something simple like, "Dr. Piton's Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Guide" but I'm not sure what my Italian co-author Fabio Elli and the publishers have in mind?
Anyway, watch for it this spring. There are tons of great photos and stories, and the best how-to information on all aspects of aid climbing and big wall systems ever published. The chapters on "Big Wall Camping" and solo aid and wall climbing are particularly exhaustive. You will love the clarity of print and the bitchin' photographs.
Cheers, eh?
"Pass the Pitons" Pete aka Dr. Piton
Ha! You actually called me "The Ambassador of the El Cap Bridge", but everyone jumped all over you and said that was Tom Evans. Tom has moved into the Meadows, the Bridge is pretty much empty, but I suppose I could now be known as "The Dirtbag of the El Cap Bear Boxes," although that doesn't exactly differentiate me from the other habituees, denizens, reprobates, delinquents and recalcitrants who also abide there.
I don't see myself as much of an ambassador as I do a Wall Doctor - one who diagnoses and solves big wall climbing problems. Hopefully aspiring big wall climbers will buy our book, and more and more Big Wall Theorists will reach the summit by legit means.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Feb 15, 2019 - 01:56pm PT
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Huh. I remember reading a lot of your posts on was it Rockclimbing.com? or something. I was impressed with how you explained things. I was a noob at the time. I don't think I've gotten much better but my I.Q. is low and I'm lazy.
I'll keep a look out for it.
Cheers!
S....
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capseeboy
Social climber
portland, oregon
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Feb 15, 2019 - 02:18pm PT
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Paging Dr. Wall, paging Dr. Big Wall...come to floor C rm A5.
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Feb 15, 2019 - 02:46pm PT
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Looking forward to it, hopefully your publisher won't mind if it gets uploaded here.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Feb 15, 2019 - 03:32pm PT
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I can’t wait to order my copy.
No doubt it’s “the better way.”
Cheers,
Doug
:)
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 15, 2019 - 03:36pm PT
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^^ that phrase does occur in the book from place to place... ;)
Haven't seen you in ages, Doug. When are you back to El Cap?
Can you help me get the book on the shelves at MEC?
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 15, 2019 - 03:45pm PT
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It will be good book.
How to drag all that sh!t up that cliff.
I'm surprised you haven't got hernia yet :-)
You are Superman for sure.
You even got E to with you on one of those ascents.
Impressive!!!
Another impressive feat is you actually get up all those different routes all these years.
I would have a hernia by now ...... :-)
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Feb 15, 2019 - 03:54pm PT
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Werner
thats two routes with piton
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 15, 2019 - 03:57pm PT
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Ah correction ...... even two with E
Awesome E
You have a hernia yet?
LOL ..... :-)
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Feb 15, 2019 - 04:00pm PT
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Duck is experienced. Duck may be wise. You better use that as a foreword, or guest review.
How bout donating a small portion of each sale to the Chongo defense fund (that may trigger some folks here)
Edit: add a glamour shot of your hot wall partner, you know, gotta have the acknowledgements
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 15, 2019 - 04:27pm PT
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Yes, the hauling chapter is quite exhaustive as well! And a certain cute wall partner is featured in several of the photographs.
None other than the late Jim Bridwell wrote the foreword, and I would consider it to be some of the Bird's finest writing.
How did you know about my developing inguinal hernia???
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 15, 2019 - 04:32pm PT
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Just guessing as it could be obvious lol.
Hope your book is successful is all I really shooting for.
Your drawings are really good too ....
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 15, 2019 - 04:39pm PT
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Thanks, Werner. There are a few of my drawings in the book, but mostly it's the high quality photos that will grab your attention.
I spent the last four wall seasons taking "textbook photos" of all my systems, then thinking about them all and writing it all up.
Fabio thinks the book will achieve worldwide success, selling to Russian, Korean and Japanese climbers, for instance, who can speak a bit of English.
If nothing else, I hope our book inspires people to get out on the big walls, and teaches them to succeed!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 15, 2019 - 04:48pm PT
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Is it being underwritten by Chivas or Johnny Walker?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Feb 15, 2019 - 04:55pm PT
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How to drag all that sh!t up that cliff.
I think Werner just wrote the title for you
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Feb 15, 2019 - 04:55pm PT
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didnt some guy det a hernia hauling petes stuff on the first pitch of a route and have to go to the hospital?
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Feb 15, 2019 - 05:02pm PT
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Is it being underwritten by Chivas or Johnny Walker
Neither. More like Natty Ice or whatever's on sale!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 15, 2019 - 05:02pm PT
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^^ That was either Travis having his seizure, or Scott who allegedly got a hernia, but who might have actually come down with a case of the nerves.
Either way, same place - base of New Dawn.
Edit: more likely underwritten by King Cobra and Trader Joe's.
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Ben Harland
Gym climber
Kenora, ON
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Feb 15, 2019 - 05:10pm PT
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I've never put myself in a situation where I might use some of Pete's advice, but I have looked at his articles and I find the drawings are the best, most elucidating part of them. I'm curious and I like to understand what he's saying and why.
You can present this stuff with photos, blank verse, whatever -- nothing makes things clear faster than those line drawings. Who did those I wonder?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 15, 2019 - 05:10pm PT
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^^ Insufficient.
More like:
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Feb 15, 2019 - 05:11pm PT
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selling to Russian, Korean and Japanese climbers, for instance, who can speak a bit of English.
That's a great idea. I am communicating with people all over the world with the translator built into Facebook. Consider an e-version of your book where someone could cut and paste text into an online translator. Then you will start to see things like Polish winter ascents of El Cap, lol.
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klaus
Big Wall climber
6th and Mission
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Feb 15, 2019 - 05:38pm PT
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One more way to make El Cap and the Valley more crowded.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 15, 2019 - 06:20pm PT
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^^ An unfortunate byproduct, but yeah, for sure.
Certainly the purpose of the book is a how-to guide, but there are many entertaining tales by many climbers from all over the world, though the book is admittedly somewhat El-Cap-centric from my perspective [obviously] and Eye-talian-centric from Fabio's perspective. And I think you-all will enjoy the slightly irreverent brand of Dr. Piton humour.
But still - El Cap is the Centre of the Big Wall Universe. The “Big Stone” is where great climbers [and not-so-great climbers] of the contemporary era have come to initiate or refine their big wall skills. Modern big wall climbing was invented here, and today nearly all new big wall developments originate in Yosemite.
2-4 indeed, but it's cheaper by the 30-box, eh?
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Feb 15, 2019 - 06:36pm PT
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here's a sample title
"Pathetic and useless: what you should not do on an el cap bivy"
hahahahahahahaha
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Feb 15, 2019 - 06:40pm PT
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how about a couple of verses of " king of the load "
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Feb 15, 2019 - 06:43pm PT
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" gets up and breaks out the porn "
bwahahaha
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 15, 2019 - 06:50pm PT
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Both of those Big Wall Songs are in Appendix E! And E can't take credit for "gets up and breaks out the porn" - that's a Shipoopoi line! And what about the Shipoopi Classic, "Hokey Pokey"? Give us the verse, Steve!
So yup, you get the lyrics to both "We're Pathetic and Incompetent - the Real Nose Song" and "King of the Wall"
But we have a few unfinished songs, maybe you-all can help:
"Strangers on the wall, exchanging sh#t bags,
This one's kind of full, I need another,
La da da da da...."
and we still need to finish "Clusterf*#ked" to the tune of AC/DC's Thunderstruck:
"I was caught ... in the middle of a big wall climb .."
CLUSTER!
" And I knew, there was no help, no help from you ..."
CLUSTER!
Erik had one from long ago, what was it, E? Another unfinished Big Wall Symphony. Ha! So much fun, it sounds better the more you drink!
Tad: I'm not sure yet. Camp is sponsoring us, and I suppose is kind of in charge of the distribution. I am guessing Amazon?
And as for Jim Clipper's request, hell yeah - you don't want to see my ugly mug any more than necessary.
She'll teach you how to jug the Froggy way, external fixator on her leg, and all!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Feb 15, 2019 - 06:54pm PT
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Proud Dude!!! Cheers!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 15, 2019 - 07:33pm PT
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PTPP: The Look.
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capseeboy
Social climber
portland, oregon
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Feb 15, 2019 - 09:05pm PT
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But Doctor Wall, how will it go? For God's sake, Just Pass The Pitons Pete.
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Chippychopperone
Social climber
SLC, UT
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Feb 16, 2019 - 09:09am PT
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Excited to see this. Put me on the list for one
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 16, 2019 - 11:32am PT
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 16, 2019 - 12:23pm PT
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Ha!
Just like Victor Kiam of the Remington shaver, I like Piton Beer so much, I bought the company!
WTF
I think we are using one of the photos that you took of me placing heads on an A4 pitch on Jolly Roger.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Feb 16, 2019 - 02:10pm PT
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Hey Pete, Probably coming to the valley next fall. As for getting books on MEC shelves I am not there anymore and would just recommend calling head office in Vancouver to find out who the buyer is for books. Hope all is well and I am really looking forward to getting a copy of your book when it comes out.
Cheers,
Doug
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OnsightOrGoHome
Trad climber
Fair Oaks
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Feb 16, 2019 - 07:39pm PT
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Should be a good book, but will it come with a CD of musical performances by PTPP himself for newbies to listen to while inching up the wall? :)
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 16, 2019 - 07:47pm PT
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No CD, but you get the song lyrics to five if my Big Wall Songs.
Just like Tom Patey in One Man's Mountains. Who could forget Onward Christian Bonington?
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Feb 17, 2019 - 05:36am PT
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"deaf, dumb ,and blind kid sure climbs a mean big wall "
is that the song ?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 17, 2019 - 07:55am PT
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^^ That's the song! Who came up with it?
Ah yes, I had forgotten the taped-down talon hooks for "pro".
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Feb 17, 2019 - 01:56pm PT
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Bullwinkle
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