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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 15, 2018 - 07:00pm PT
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yesterday, i was rescued off realm of the flying monkeys, an obscure route that surfs right off the west face of el cap and climbs independently to thanksgiving ledge. we started the climb at 4:44AM yesterday and at 9PM, and just 300 fewe from thanksgiving ledge, my partner, camden clements, took a huge 50 foot fall, doing a huge backflip through the night sky, his headlamp shing every direction, and stuck it with just a broken helmet, and a broken ankle. and all of sudden, we were like, so shut down. we just got a text out to tito krull, who initiated a rescue.
about 9:30 on sunday, after a shivering night with minimal clothing, helicopter 551 showed up, gave us a look, and then surveyed the terrain above. it was a complex rescue with, i imagine, the crux to be at which point to lower a rescuer to us. there was 800' of undulating terrain between us and the top of the cliff. at 2pm, jason montoya appeared 100 feet above us, and within minutes had taken camden off our perch, leeaving me alone. only 90 minutes passed before jason showed up again and hooked me into the yosar system, and 20 to 30 minutes later i was towed up by 10 to 11 of yoasar' best to the summit. i was almost in tears when i arrived and repeatedly thanked my heroic rescuers.
it was quite something to be waiting for a rescue while on el cap. humbling, grateful, relieved.
i have always preached that it is ok to have a rscue for yourself, but try not to have two. i have climbed el cap 126 times. this was my first rescue. i'll try not to have another one.
again, hats off to yosar. try not to ever use them, but if you really need them...like we did, you will be in great hands.
steve schneider
ps camden's xray showed a mildly dislapced broken fibula. did not break his talus. he should should be up and running by next season
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 15, 2018 - 07:16pm PT
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Good to hear that there is no permanent damage.
And, as the wise man says, that which doesn't kill you...
...doesn't kill you.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Oct 15, 2018 - 07:30pm PT
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maybe next time something without the term "flying monkeys?" heal up strong camden! and thanks yosar, for all your dedication and service
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ryankelly
climber
Bhumi
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Oct 15, 2018 - 07:30pm PT
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Dang. Glad you fellas are alright and thanks for the update
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 15, 2018 - 07:36pm PT
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Glad to hear all is well, Steve. You're lucky they didn't make you jug up the last bit!
Good ol Anita514 has done pretty well with NO fibula in one of her legs, so hopefully Camden will be back up to snuff soon.
Hahahahaha!! I saw Brandon Latham down in the meadow about to take off, and he thanked me for providing him all the beta for the rescue from West Thanksgiving Ledge, which never happened to me much this past June. ;)
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Oct 15, 2018 - 07:43pm PT
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Thankful to hear all is and will be well. Prayers for your partner. Peace and more for you, blonde one. Cheers, lynnie l. not to be confused with lynnie h. :)
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Oct 15, 2018 - 08:09pm PT
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I’ve had near the same injury as your partner (motorcycle accident), if not a bit worse fibula wise.
Glad you’re both relatively unscathed, Steve.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Oct 15, 2018 - 08:19pm PT
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All's well that ends well.
Give thanks.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 15, 2018 - 08:36pm PT
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good to hear that it turned out relatively well
I've been through two too many (actually three) in the last three years after never having a partner injured. It is humbling. We self rescued twice and had a YOSAR assist once.
Thanks to those folk for being there and willing to take risks for our sake!
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 15, 2018 - 08:39pm PT
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LOL .... that was you holding that sign saying broken ankle .....couldn't recognize you.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Oct 15, 2018 - 09:05pm PT
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Sorry to hear about your partner’s injury but it’s great that the outcome was not worse.
Best wishes to all involved.
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Tamara Robbins
climber
not a climber, just related...
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Oct 15, 2018 - 09:51pm PT
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Steve! Craziness. Bob and I were just chatting about you yesterday. Glad you’re ok.... ! Best wishes for partners speedy recovery 🙏
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Oct 15, 2018 - 10:09pm PT
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You never know when you'll have the cat stuck in a tree moment in some form or other. Glad it worked out. Its amazing how they are so professional and skilled. Glad for EMT's and glad YOSAR is there and hope your partner has a speedy recovery.
Cheers!
S....
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CaNewt
Mountain climber
Davis, CA
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Oct 15, 2018 - 10:17pm PT
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Thanks for the call Steve. Glad you and Camden are safe.
I enjoyed Werner’s post. My question about the rescue was was Werner there? Apparently he sat this one out in El Cap meadows. Hope he had a comfortable chair.
Cheers. Bob Schneider
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Oct 15, 2018 - 10:20pm PT
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So sorry to hear about the event, Steve. And so glad that you are both okay!
TFPU
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 15, 2018 - 10:28pm PT
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I like good news like this. Too much bad news lately.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 15, 2018 - 10:36pm PT
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hey there say, shipoopoi... oh my... say, very you will be okay...
and that all went well, through the whole things...
*love werner's comment, up there... about the sign, and
recognition vs nonrecognition (at the moment) ...
:)
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Oct 15, 2018 - 11:38pm PT
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Glad you guys had help. Once again great job YOSAR!
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Oct 16, 2018 - 04:42am PT
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hey Steve - really glad it was not worse for you and Camden. Hope he heals up fast, I am sure he will.
I'd give you some Gold sour bears but I've already gone home. Have fun in Hawaii!
Hugs!
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Oct 16, 2018 - 05:36am PT
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glad you are ok.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Oct 16, 2018 - 05:44am PT
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Accidents happen. Glad everything pretty much turned out OK. However, how was the climbing or Realm of the Flying Monkeys? That line has always intrigued me.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Oct 16, 2018 - 06:37am PT
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Just a lil ol broken ankle? Doug Scott and Chris Bonnington would not be impressed. You boys would have crawled up and over those last few pitches if you had any sand in ya at all.
All kidding aside, glad you fellas got off there safe and sound and a big hats off to such a skilled and daring rescue effort. That's serious business up there. Hope your buddy heals up quickly and fully.
Scott
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Oct 16, 2018 - 08:30am PT
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126 trips up the Captain without serious injury is a pretty good start Steve. A few more routes and you will have it down. There was a time in the 80s when everyone on YOSAR but Werner and I had been rescued, so join the club.
Seriously: I'm glad your friend is ok.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 16, 2018 - 08:40am PT
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Where the real monkeys fly...El Cap.
Glad both of you are safe & sound, S.
Does this aborted climb count among the 126, or is it "just another attempt?"
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Oct 16, 2018 - 08:56am PT
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Wow! Scary to have it happen in the dark! Glad you both made it out with your lives. Helicopter 551 is the Best in the West! And Yosar too of course!! They are some powerful folks to work with and lots of energy and passion to get it done.
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Oct 16, 2018 - 09:06am PT
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Glad you both made it down ok Steve.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2018 - 09:12am PT
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i certainly cannot count that as an ascent mouse...hell, i was pulled up the last 800 feet. it was a good route until we got lost. really hard to figure out in the dark. hans and peter coward did this climb in under 10 hours back in the day, so they had light to find the way and i would say that is all important. the topo could also use some work. it shows mostly following a single crack system up high, but actually the cracks dead end and you have the choice of going left or right. i'd like to go back someday and complete it. ss
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Oct 16, 2018 - 12:11pm PT
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Oct 16, 2018 - 12:40pm PT
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Holy schneikes Steve!
I am glad to hear your partner Camden is gonna be OK. After 126 ascents without a major mishap, you've been fortunate not to have any serious epics. It sure sounds like how I felt when I was rescued when I got dropped up at the Gong show crag in Rock Creek. After helping on rescues in several other locations it sure was an odd feeling to be so dependent on the fine folks who were dispatched to come to my aid. I vividly recall feeling so helpless and sad. I have so much gratitude & respect for those who came and literally carried my butt down the talus slopes in a stokes litter.
Knowing your irrepressible energy, I expect you'll be telling this story for many years to come.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 16, 2018 - 02:05pm PT
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^^ LOL! That's my girl!
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Oct 16, 2018 - 02:42pm PT
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So - other than it's dark, you're off route and runout - what was going on just before he fell?
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Oct 16, 2018 - 06:39pm PT
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YIKES!
Glad to see that both will be OK. Heal fast and stay on route.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 17, 2018 - 06:25pm PT
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I thought it was;
"What doesn't kill you will make you stronger.
Except for bears. Bears will kill you."
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HeschMonster
Trad climber
Morro Bay
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Oct 22, 2018 - 03:57pm PT
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Apologies that none of these will be of the T Evans quality, but in lieu of texting Steve "wtf is taking so long, ya sissy?", I took some photos instead. Also have one of Pete but it's NSFW, so i'll leave it out ;)
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Action Jackson
Gym climber
Oakland
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Oct 27, 2018 - 07:39am PT
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Sounds so hairy, Steve. Glad you’re safe and well and can put it in such a good perspective.
 Jake
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cornel
climber
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
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Oct 27, 2018 - 10:15am PT
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Glad everything turned out ok... Yes Sir it is humbling to call for rescue and I to know that feeling. 20+ yrs ago 2 pitches from the top on Salathe 4 to 5 inches of verglas shut us down. 6 days of storm had slapped us around nicely. No food for the last 3days, No pins, or hammer of course either so we swallowed our pride and asked for help. YOSAR via a Naval chopper swung a hammer and a pin rack and some very appreciated c rations to us. Then we smashed our way up to the top. A couple of freezing wet leads. Not recommended.. it was exciting getting to the rappels too, Slippery slopes also Not recommended without crampons. Humbling but we stayed in one piece thanks to YOSAR.
Hope Cam heals quickly
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| Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic |
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