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Iamjus10
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 6, 2018 - 11:56am PT
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This is my rack
What is your go-to? What is a single piece you can't live without?
Also I mistyped in the title. Anyone know how to fix that? haha.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Also I mistyped in the title. Anyone know how to fix that? haha.
The thread title is NOT editable. Just delete the thread and repost before you have many replies....
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Iamjus10
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2018 - 01:18pm PT
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Yup.. couldn't figure that out either.
I'll just down in Supertopo history as "the man that cant English." That's ok though. Thank for the help. anyways.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Just a little FYI.
Real dirtbags don’t have blogs where they brag about living in a 70k springer van with 6 ropes and way too much rack.
Real dirtbags hitchhike to an area for 3 days carrying nothing more than a sleeping bag, harness and shoes and a few cans of chili and proceed to send everybody’s project first try on bummed belays and borrowed gear.
Blasphemy.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Go to the climb to discover what it’s go to rack is.
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AnotherDirtbag
Trad climber
San Diego
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“A person who is committed to a given (usually extreme) lifestyle to the point of abandoning employment and other societal norms in order to pursue said lifestyle.“
I don’t think it matters if you are fortunate enough to have a decent home or not. As long as you’re giving it all to the rock.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dirtbag? More like illiterite.
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Jim Clipper
climber
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#anterack #itaintaboutthegear #itsthehair
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Gear Jeff Lowe left high on Metanoia and found by Thomas Huber on the second ascent. Seemed to work for Jeff.
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ec
climber
ca
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I believe that my GtR would be much more sparse than that; then supplemental pieces added per a particular route menu.
Instead of the perfect GtR, I would strive for as little as I could get away with vs what I could not live without. At the end of the most significant lead, after the anchor is set and I only had a few nuggets left that would have never worked anywhere on the lead would be as perfect as it could get and I’d feel satisfied.
 ec
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Iamjus10
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2018 - 03:24pm PT
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I agree. The less extra stuff you have to carry, the better. I pull from my "base rack" as much as I add to it.
I dont think I have ever done a climb without my purple totem though.. Dont know why.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Yep, you shouldn’t even necessarily have a go-to basic rack. Routes can vary enormously in what kind of rack they call for.
What you should own is another matter although that too depends on the kind of climbing you do. An obvious example is Indian Creek.where I will be going tomorrow if the friggin rain stops..
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Iamjus10
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2018 - 04:15pm PT
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I find what I own can greatly change what I climb. For instance, I don't own anything bigger than a BD #5. Therefore I tend to stay away from any climbs that have too much offwidth. This is probably limiting me as a climber...
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ec
climber
ca
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The lack of having a number of wide pieces never limited Chuck Pratt...
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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If you need something bigger than a BD # 5, you're a sick puppy.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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In a (likely-vain) attempt to be constuctive.
Here is my insider photo of a 2010 Donini, City of Rocks leader rack, for his objectives of the day.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Here's a Tom Evans photo of Gobright and Reynold's go-to do a Nose record rack, from Oct. 21st, 2017:
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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A set of wires then triples through 5 Camalot and a smattering of larger, for most areas but Vedauwoo, where you need bigger. Obviously, some projects need more specific gear, but if your partners have racks it’s a good start. ..
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NegativeK
climber
Chicago
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Dude, you've got to stop spraying your blog posts on every climbing forum.
Buy ads or write content that other people want to spread.
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Iamjus10
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2018 - 10:52pm PT
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If you don't want to read it, you don't have to read it.
A single post isn't spraying anything. I don't see why this is so offensive to you.
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Iamjus10
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2018 - 10:58pm PT
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Also, Gobright is insane. I want to use at least double as much gear as he ever does.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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"We do not think you need all of this gear. A few slings, some carabiners, this is enough"(Personal conversation, Rio Blanco, Argentina, 1983). Take just what you need; leave the rest behind.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 10, 2018 - 07:08am PT
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I’m taking ng this to mean what you take on a trip to a new area to have to draw from...
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Iamjus10
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2018 - 10:04am PT
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Well, technically I take it literally everywhere I go. But yes, I would never take ALL of that up a wall. Or even just all of my "base rack." I have just found it a good starting point for deciding what to rack it. It's where I keep my favorite pieces of each size, then work from there. Adding doubles, removing sizes etc...
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Oct 10, 2018 - 11:23am PT
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Oct 10, 2018 - 11:30am PT
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Obviously one makes adjustments but my starting point is doubles through gold Camalot and then one blue. I like Metolius in the smaller sizes. Usually a set of wires. I'm sure some say that's too much but over time I've found it more efficient to just be able to plug in the gear I want where I want it as opposed to hunting for the right placement for whatever I have left, especially at the belay.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 10, 2018 - 05:22pm PT
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I hate looking at gear.
I hated racking that st00pid sh!t.
It was a necessary evil and pain in the ass to deal with.
Throw that sh!t in the dumpster where it belongs and get a nice rack like "NutAgain!" guys rack up thread ......
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 10, 2018 - 08:20pm PT
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Werner’s go-to rack always depended on the climb he was doing...for Astroman it was as many as three or four pieces.
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Oct 10, 2018 - 08:27pm PT
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I thought there was some slander about leading with a static line also...
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AnotherDirtbag
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 10, 2018 - 08:48pm PT
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Leading with a static line is no problem.
Falling though.. that can be problematic.
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Iamjus10
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2018 - 03:33pm PT
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Just dont
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Free rack...
Camalot ULs have caught my attention. Light biners plus the ULs have shaved down my overall rack weight. Up to #3, sometimes doubles to #4. Now if only I could shave down my weight.
Totems in the small sizes, dbls as needed, but still keeping blue/green alien, and sometimes a smaller cam if the day calls for tiny.
Set of nuts, BD down to tiny, but rarely use RPs anymore for free rack. DMMs if in the Valley.
Wall Rack is totally different. But that's like a recipe. You cook for the specific climb. No go to ways about it!
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AnotherDirtbag
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Damn Moose.. I like where your heads at.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Your go to rack depends on the climb. Modernize your rack...I am constantly blown away seeing experienced climbers with old, out of date, gear. Put that crap on eBay, there seems to be a huge market for old gear...mystery to me. You shouldn’t have a carabiner on your rack that weighs over an ounce unless it’s a screw gate...and you shouldn't have many of those.
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| Messages 1 - 38 of total 38 in this topic |
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