Would you be able to Climb Harder if you were Lighter?

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Darnell

Big Wall climber

Chicago

Jan 26, 2007 - 10:24am PT

Fat Aid climbers untie, er, unite!

TradIsGood

Happy and Healthy climber

the Gunks end of the country

Jan 26, 2007 - 12:03pm PT

I dropped 20 this summer and was up a full grade.

Have dropped 7 more and back below where I started.

Strained shoulder. Lost some rotator cuff strength, combined with working on much harder stuff. Working on building up cuffs, keeping inflamation down, and recovering.

Four more pounds to target weight (and hopefully winning free dinner in New Paltz).

The mentioned body fat levels for women are way too low. Would cause hormonal problems that would result in a number of health problems including, at some point, bone density issues.

G_Gnome

Boulder climber

Sick Midget Land

Jan 26, 2007 - 12:43pm PT

Heck, I only weighed 112 when I did the Pirate. Seemed pretty reasonable at the time. Of course I had just watched Tony solo up and down the first half a couple times so I could get the sequence right. I could certainly use losing 10 pounds now days.

dirtineye

Trad climber

the south

Jan 26, 2007 - 02:08pm PT

Nice (if obvious) troll!!

Worthy of rc.com.

When I weighed 132 and was all muscle I could climb upside down along a roof that at 162 and all fat I can't even make the starting moves for.

BUT, when I was 132 and RRK was 245, I was the belay counterweight. Almost got launched into space without a rocket.

A slab master I know says that the extra weight helps keep your feet glued down on those slabs.

Normal adult weights in the US are way way high for my tastes. Every pound of fat needs three miles of capilaries, think what that does to your heart.

Whne I'm well I'll be aiming for 135 and I'm about 5'10, and that is not nearly as low as I could go, but I'm a little ecto.

Melissa

Gym climber

berkeley, ca

Jan 26, 2007 - 02:24pm PT

I think I would be alarming looking if I lost 20 lbs. At my lowest weight, I was still more than that and got stress fractures in my feet in a road race b/c my weight was affecting my bone density. Good times. I might climb harder in the short term at 5'6", 100 lbs, but I don't think my health at such a low weight would sustain any improvements for long.

If Werner lost 10lbs off his ass there would be a vacuum in his knickers.

It's probably not a solution for everyone.

If I lost 7-10 lbs (and was actually training and climbing more than I am now) I would most likely climb harder in places like the gym and Indian Creek. In Yosemite and Joshua Tree I get foiled by technique and/or courage more often than lack of brute force.

johnr9q

Sport climber

Sacramento, Ca

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2007 - 02:25pm PT

dirtineye: Can you explain what you mean by the following:
Nice (if obvious) troll!!

Worthy of rc.com.

August West

Trad climber

Where the wind blows strange

Jan 26, 2007 - 02:43pm PT

If I lost 20 pounds, I would be 6'0" and would weigh 125 pounds.

I guess my parnter could winch me up easier.

Blowboarder

Boulder climber

Back in the mix

Jan 26, 2007 - 02:52pm PT

"Man, if I could get my feet to stick then I wouldn't blow off these crimps on this roof. I gotta find a better footwork sequence."

"Maybe more core strength too."

sling512

Trad climber

Chicago

Jan 26, 2007 - 03:37pm PT

I was 130, put on 10 lbs of muscle and now climb much stronger (obviously). Still in the 'normal' range. If I lost 20 I'd be dead!

-sling

G_Gnome

Boulder climber

Sick Midget Land

Jan 26, 2007 - 03:56pm PT

"If I lost 20 I'd be dead!"

Haha, everyone posting on this thread should post up their age too. I get the skinny ones are still pretty young. Not many skinny old guys (except Werner).

sling512

Trad climber

Chicago

Jan 26, 2007 - 03:59pm PT

G_Gnome, fair enough. I'm 29.

But I have good genetics in this respect. Norse in origin and my Dad could probably still kick my butt. (not climbing though, haha!)

-sling

Standing Strong

Ice climber

still decidering

Jan 26, 2007 - 04:47pm PT

i agree with blowboarder about technique! i've had people tell me how to put my feet and i was able to stay on things i was peeling off of. i just need more mileage and technique. when i'm done fixing up my truck so it runs without breaking, i am going to try to take a day course with a guide. and in spring, i'm going to c4 with my hexes clanging and hopefully climb till the roof comes off. i would still like to lose about twenty pounds but now that i'm more fit i'm much more confident in myself and more confident in my ability to progress as a climber. and i'm sick over all the time i wasted feeling bad about myself. i just want to climb a lot. unfortunately i can't afford to travel anywhere now but in spring, hopefully.

johnr9q

Sport climber

Sacramento, Ca

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2007 - 05:47pm PT

For some of you that say that if you lose 20 lbs you would die check out the following. http://www.calorierestriction.org/ these people claim that you live longer, and better lives if you stay about 15% under your "set weight". Your set weight is your normal weight, eating a good diet(non caloric restricted) and exerciseing properly (basically what most people would consider being in good shape). My set weight is about 170 lbs and I am 5'11". I am 62 years old but that really doesn't figure into the equation. So my set weight would be about 145 lbs and I would be pretty skinny and would really need to watch what I eat to maintain that weight and be careful to choose quality foods with the proper mix of Protein, Carbs and fat. For most people it is impossible to do.

sling512

Trad climber

Chicago

Jan 26, 2007 - 05:49pm PT

I have trouble keeping weight on. I have the metabolism that makes me lose weight just in the act of eating. People have always told me someday that'll change.... approaching 30 I figure it will some day. But calorie restriction sounds like slow torture to me! I imagine I'd feel sluggish.

-sling

mojede

Trad climber

Butte, America

Jan 26, 2007 - 05:58pm PT

No--at a buck and a quarter, I do much better after the donut 6-pak; the munchies do have benefits.

aspendougy

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Feb 12, 2018 - 04:37pm PT

Right, for slabs, extra weight is no big deal. But for a fist jam beyond vertical, try doing the same route with a 20 lb. weight vest. It was inspiring to see that YOUTUBE clip "Don Whillan's Last Climb". He had quite a gut, he was huffing and puffing, but got up somehow. Among the old guard in Yosemite, seems Mark Powell, Henneck, and Gerughty tended to be a bit on the portly side at times, but most everyone else was thin.