Two Brits on NA Wall - follow progress as The Valley reopens

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Messages 1 - 39 of total 39 in this topic
Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 14, 2018 - 10:10pm PT
A big thank you to everyone who chipped in with useful advice for a Plan B, but The Valley is now open for business and I thought you might be interested in following progress on how Plan A pans out.
Just settling into Camp 4 now after a day's layover in Tuolmnee and a quick ascent of the Regular Route on Fairview Dome. A report and a few pictures here https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/08/15/another-episode-in-bill-and-doms-excellent-adventures/
More updates on the route as it happens at https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Aug 14, 2018 - 10:35pm PT
Yay!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Aug 15, 2018 - 02:56pm PT
It's all Big Wall Theory until you're on the wall.

We expect live posts, photos, and plenty of beer!
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Aug 15, 2018 - 02:58pm PT
Nice trip report, but Yorkshire Valley? good climbing?
originalpmac

Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
Aug 15, 2018 - 03:10pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]

Looking forward to your trip report. And your trip report as well.
Don Paul

Social climber
Washington DC
Aug 16, 2018 - 04:59am PT
If you want to be famous post your updates here. I will never forget the last pitch of Iron Hawk that was broadcast live.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Aug 16, 2018 - 08:22am PT
Bollocks.

If I'm not completely mixed up here, it would appear that these two lads climbed the first four pitches of Sea of Dreams by mistake, rather than North America Wall.

Wankers.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Aug 16, 2018 - 09:04am PT
^ Thought you were joking, Pete, but that's what happened.

Proud job, in spite of the mistake!

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/08/16/a-bit-of-a-sod/
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Aug 16, 2018 - 09:32am PT
Great mistake to make. Now they have to go back and finish it. :)
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 16, 2018 - 09:40am PT
Remember the first French team to do the Nose with like 3 liters of water, arriving on top days later with their tongues stuck to the roofs of their mouths?

Sheesh! How do you mistake the Sea for the NA?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 16, 2018 - 10:12am PT
Cuz they’re bleedin’ Yorkies! 🤡

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 16, 2018 - 10:16am PT
Does that mean they wear Tricounis?
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 16, 2018 - 10:31am PT
We were on top by 6pm, a bit over 4 hours after starting climbing and just short of 24 hours after clearing US immigration!

Nice work lads! I love me some Fairview Dome.

Thanks for the share and post up as you boys send!!!

Scott
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Aug 16, 2018 - 10:32am PT
^^^^Are these "lads" going to link a few pitches of Tempest then pendulum over to LIA? Its quite a swing.

Good Luck guys!!!

TR please!

Cheers!

S....
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 16, 2018 - 10:33am PT
Started up the wrong route?!!!! Bloody Punters!!!! I love it.
johntp

Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
Aug 16, 2018 - 03:06pm PT
Ha! Thanks for keeping us entertained. GoGoGo!
Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2018 - 09:22am PT
Our NA Wall trip got off to a poor start - we managed to do 4 pitches of Sea of Dreams before realising we were on the wrong route! Incompetent or what!

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/08/16/a-bit-of-a-sod/

Fixed 4 pitches of the right route yesterday so we're now back on track!

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/08/17/gone-fixin/

Blasting today, so keep watching for further updates as we journey across North America!
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
Aug 17, 2018 - 09:54am PT
Heck, should have continued up Sea of Dreams :)
Jim Clipper

climber
Aug 17, 2018 - 10:21am PT
Incompetent or what!
Previously answered. Moreover, personally not qualified to answer properly. Still, here goes.

From across the pond, to buggering about on Sea of Dreams. Since you've persevered traveling west, why not spend some time on the Ranch?

I can never tell the difference between your accents. Still, anyone who has come that far to enjoy some high culture deserves a spot of tea. You may find me wrestling V0 pebbles.



a. colonial
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Aug 17, 2018 - 10:41am PT
Dom, when I first started climbing in the Valley in 1981, all we had was a copy of Roper's little green guide, which contained written descriptions - not topos - to the Valley routes. We would wander around the base of cliffs forever, staring up at stuff that all looked the same to us based on the written description of cracks and corners. My husband once lead the stiff 5.10d crack Mighty Crunchy on nuts and slung hexes, thinking we were on Mojo Tooth, all the while saying "seems pretty hard for 5.8".

At some point I got a guidebook with actual topos and some black and white photos, I still have the Meyers and Reid from 1987. That was an enormous improvement. Still I would sometimes get lost on things. I recall I went to do Kor-Beck on Middle Cathedral with a friend one day. Got up three pitches. Every pitch, we were saying "this doesn't seem quite right". We finally figured we had no idea what, if anything, we were on, and went down. To this day I still don't know what we were on.

Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2018 - 10:13pm PT
Yup - we're just about to cross over - woulda saved a whole lot of effort and hauling ;-)

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/08/19/trundling-gently-up-the-west-coast/
Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2018 - 10:31pm PT
Back on track... Big Sur, Borderline Traverse and The Black Dihedral

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/08/20/back-on-track-and-a-bivvy-in-the-black-dihedral/
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Aug 19, 2018 - 10:47pm PT
This rivals the ascent of rum doodle
,

LOl, So who is Pathfinder? Who is Binder? Funny to hear someone mention this.

Good luck mates.

Its just fun from the ground. I think you will have a fantastic ascent. Cheers!

S...
Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2018 - 06:09am PT
Thanks Skywalker - certainly a rum do :-)
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Aug 20, 2018 - 01:33pm PT
Fun trip reports. Keep them coming!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Aug 20, 2018 - 03:50pm PT
If the lads have climbed as high as the Black Dihedral this quickly, they are doing really well!

Just before you reach the gigantic dihedral of the Dihedral wall, which is followed by the flat area below Wings of Steel, on a round buttress just right of Dihedral,there is a very nasty thin practice crack likely real A4 that ends at bolts seventy feet up or so.

Two lads were climbing it as I schlepped by. "Holy frig, dudes - what on earth are you climbing??!!"

"Isn't this the start of Lurking Fear?" they asked.

"Bloody 'ell, Lurking Fear starts half a mile west of here above that giant buttress you can see!"

I schitt you knott. You can't make this stuff up!
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Aug 20, 2018 - 06:00pm PT
Cool, have never been to the base of the NA and have not seen a pic of it. Thanks!
johntp

Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
Aug 20, 2018 - 07:00pm PT
Who is Binder?

My guess is Bruce Binder. Nice guy. Climbed once with him in JT (or was it YOS?). Can't remember.
Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2018 - 08:14pm PT
Sweet bivvy in the base of The Cyclops Eye

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/08/21/a-night-in-the-cyclops-eye/

Even arrived at a comfortable time to enjoy a relaxed few hours and the setting sun.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Aug 20, 2018 - 08:21pm PT
Nice work Brits!

Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
Aug 21, 2018 - 05:15am PT
Great stuff!
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Aug 21, 2018 - 02:06pm PT
Oh Hell yeh !
Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2018 - 09:39pm PT
Another fun and testing day on NAW. Now chilling in The Igloo

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/08/22/a-night-in-the-igloo/
Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2018 - 12:56pm PT
Topped out yesterday around noon - that last pitch is outstanding (and quite tricky!), a fitting end to a great voyage.

Pics and final report here

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/08/23/topping-out-on-na-wall/

Thanks for your company and support over the last week - we've really appreciated it.

Signing off now, until the next Bill and Dom's Excellent Adventure
johntp

Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
Aug 23, 2018 - 02:20pm PT
Just in case you check back in: Cheers and thanks for the reports. It was a good read/view.
Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2018 - 01:36pm PT
... And RELAX :-)

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/08/25/and-relax/
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Aug 26, 2018 - 06:25pm PT
that was fun, thanks for the ride. i've booked a massage in your honor
Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2018 - 09:25am PT
Thanks for following the journey and for all the support - Here's the TR with a bunch more photos and slightly better use of English!

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/08/27/north-america-wall-trip-report/

Cheers

Dom and Bill
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Oct 28, 2018 - 02:24pm PT
A -been waiting & couldn't wait any longer- Bump.

Messages 1 - 39 of total 39 in this topic
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