Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 74 of total 74 in this topic |
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 25, 2018 - 04:37pm PT
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Leaving Monday for, eventually, the Latok/Ogre cirque. It will be the 40th anniversary of my first visit. I have put together a trek which will start in Askole, proceed up the entire length of the Biafo Glacier to Snow Lake and then over the 17,500 ft. Sim La Pass to the Huber basecamp in the incomparable Latok/Ogre cirque.
18 trekkers will be accompanying Angela and me including two notable taco contributers...Moose and TWP.
Moose and I along with friends, Tim and Laura Kudo, will stay on an additional two weeks with Thomas Huber and team while the rest of the group returns to Askole...we be climbing bros!
This is a unique trek to, arguably, the most beautiful mountain cathedral on the planet. Few people aside from worldclass alpinists have set foot in the cirque. It’s the polar opposite of the trek to Everest basecamp.
I am very likely going to do another trek in 2019. TR coming in mid-September when I return.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jul 25, 2018 - 04:58pm PT
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Ho man what an adventure. Have a great time, be safe and post tons of photos when you get back!
Scott
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 25, 2018 - 05:05pm PT
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Incredible area!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jul 25, 2018 - 05:06pm PT
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Maybe its time for a SuperTopo group trip.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jul 25, 2018 - 05:40pm PT
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rumor has it that Jim kicked Vitaliy off the team once Moose was on board. ;)
have an outstanding trip!!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jul 25, 2018 - 05:41pm PT
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WOW! Awsome!
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L
climber
Just livin' the dream
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Jul 25, 2018 - 05:55pm PT
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Beeeeeeeautiful photos!
Have a wonder-filled time.
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mountain girl
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 25, 2018 - 06:24pm PT
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Beautiful!
Have a great trip.
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Jul 25, 2018 - 06:28pm PT
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Good luck and safe travels you guys. Hell of a way to celebrate your birthday Jim. Trip of a lifetime, for most.
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Jul 25, 2018 - 07:10pm PT
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Looks like wonderful time to be had.
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7SacredPools
Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
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Jul 25, 2018 - 09:01pm PT
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Safe travels!
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Jul 25, 2018 - 10:18pm PT
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Happy trails to you! Thanks, Moose! Can't wait to hear the stories.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jul 26, 2018 - 06:14am PT
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As well you go with Taco stoke & a free rope!
take moment to shake Aanif's a hand
speak of me please
if it seems that as I think,
his moments meeting this team may just be the biggest moment in his Life-search for
The Freedom ofthe Hillz
All,
be well, all- be good!
for you 'n yors
Iwill keep the Light on for you!
get`ter Done!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2018 - 06:56am PT
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I am very sorry to hear of the death of Sergey Glazunov and my best wishes go out for the safe return of Alexander Gukov.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2018 - 08:12am PT
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The above is a Josh Wharton photo. The pink line shows our 1978 route. The green dot shows where Alexander is stuck with no gear to rappel. A resue is underway but the weather is poor.
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Jul 26, 2018 - 08:23am PT
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Sounds like a dream trip. I look forward to your reports.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Jul 26, 2018 - 09:11am PT
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Wow you guys, super jealous. I've been wanting to get up into that area for years. I hope I can before I leave that/this part of the world!
I'll be returning to Delhi on Sunday, and will be thinking of you as you wander around keeping Moose from going native.
Moose, now that you've got Shasta under your belt the world's mts. are at your disposal:) Go get 'em!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2018 - 09:19am PT
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Shasta...the gate keeper to the greater ranges! Go to the Himalaya at your peril if you haven't paid your dues on California’s snowiest 14er.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jul 26, 2018 - 09:27am PT
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The courage and stupidity to try to reach such a summit is not part of my constitution. I wish everyone who has the courage all the luck needed to return safely...
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John M
climber
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Jul 26, 2018 - 09:29am PT
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Sounds like a Moosininitastic adventure! I am looking forward to pictures and tales of daring do.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Nutty
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Jul 26, 2018 - 10:52am PT
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This is a tragic loss of Sergey Glazunov in a rappelling incident, God speed for Alexander Gukov to get down safely!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2018 - 11:54am PT
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I don’t know the details but my assumption is that Sergey was rappelling with the hardwear in order to set up the next anchors and Alexander was left without the means to place anchors.
I am told that the current weather is not good but better weather is in the offing.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Jul 26, 2018 - 03:23pm PT
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That sounds like another great trip Jim. Wish I were going. Tim and Laura will be a lot of fun to spend that much time with. Tell them I said hi.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Jul 26, 2018 - 08:35pm PT
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Cheering you all on with prayers and love. An awesome adventure and drool ... all I have to say is how fortunate you are. Fill me in at FL. lynnie
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Don Paul
Social climber
Denver CO
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Jul 27, 2018 - 05:34am PT
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Sounds like an amazing trip - Pakistan will still be celebrating the election of Imran Khan. The Latok 1 rescue might still be going on. From Pakistan Mountain News:
#LatokI
Update: Attempt to rescue Russian mountaineer
One of the best Russian alpinists, Alexander Gukov, has stuck at about 6200 meters on Latok I (7,145m) after the death of his climbing companion Sergey Glazunov.
The rescue team is waiting for weather improvement, they will try a long line rescue, in a very dangerous position.
Gukov and Glazunov traveled to Pakistan with the aim of completing the north ridge of Latok I, first attempted during 26 days in 1978 by the Americans.
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krahmes
Social climber
Stumptown
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Jul 27, 2018 - 06:03am PT
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So I'm just going to assume that you all don't really care about climate change beyond something to tar "Trump" supporters with.
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krahmes
Social climber
Stumptown
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Jul 27, 2018 - 06:24am PT
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Just to put a marker out there here is a study:
https://www.nature.com/articles/s41558-018-0141-x
It's behind a paywall now rSin so you won't be able to read it, beyond the abstract. To summarize 8% of man made global CO2 is from 'tourism".
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Jul 27, 2018 - 09:11am PT
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^+1
.. and thinking positive thoughts for a successful rescue
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 27, 2018 - 03:31pm PT
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Prayers for Alexander Gukov. Sounds very grim for him. God bless.
Please tell Thomas Huber that "Piton" says hi, and to get his Bavarian ass [and his brother's!] back to El Cap soon cuz we miss them!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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Jul 27, 2018 - 03:48pm PT
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Safe adventures Jim. Have fun, be safe!
Peace
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Jul 27, 2018 - 07:43pm PT
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Awesome JD, for me this is where ST is at its best. A place where kindred spirits intersect and can get to known each other then plan and execute an adventure. Non of this would be possible without your capacity to share. Safe travels, post along many photo’s!!!
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Jul 29, 2018 - 12:53pm PT
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Ahem, ... Robert. Mr. Donini may have gone to Latok, precociously.
Still, he is "heading back", even if he does not make the summit this trip.
Class act, rumor has it he signs his own thank you notes.
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Jul 29, 2018 - 01:13pm PT
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anyone done the Latok girdle?
seriously, good will for the russian climbers.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 29, 2018 - 01:16pm PT
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Donini & Kingtut for President!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 29, 2018 - 01:20pm PT
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Thanks, kingtut. I really had to restrain myself yesterday. It's quite an adventure the Donini's have put together. I'd hardly downplay it. lynnie
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 29, 2018 - 04:24pm PT
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Robert L, if you read the original post from Donini it describes to a T what will be going down. He says nothing about climbing the peak.
So people spend time here, why would you judge what they do? Do you even know what they do? Why the negative vibe? Why not be happy for the taco crew headed to Pakistan and the rest of us for our small victories?
Nothing against you Robert, but life is to short to not support one another. Come to Face Lift and see the Taco in action. Cheers!
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Jul 29, 2018 - 04:29pm PT
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I got you Robert.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
I'm out. Rubber gonna meet the road, for the dogs at least. Then I'll be back to do work, to keep on working.
Glass off if I'm lucky. Beautiful sunset last night. Pink and blue, and who might have been an island girl with a cross-step and two color board to match. (stay warm, can't be jealous).
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john hansen
climber
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Jul 29, 2018 - 04:38pm PT
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Any word on the rescue of Alexander Gukov?
Been searching but cant find anything more recent then Friday.
Edit: Thanks Lynne
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 29, 2018 - 07:21pm PT
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According to Anna Piunova of www.mountain.ru, Gukov and Glazunov set off 14 days ago with only 5 days food supply for their summit bid on what has come to be known as one of the biggest prizes in high altitude mountaineering. A GPS signal received on 24 July pinpointed the two at 6975m, but tragedy struck a day later when Sergey Glazunov fell to his death while rappelling.
Could it be that they topped out and one fell to his death while rappelling and had all the gear with him (usually the first person on rap carries most of the gear for building anchors etc)? Too bad, hope his partner gets down safe to tell the story...
edit: went to Russian web site. They were near the top but didn't quite make it.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 29, 2018 - 07:56pm PT
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Vitaily, I think Jim said this up thread. Think also the Russians got a touch closer before they decided to rap.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 29, 2018 - 08:22pm PT
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Good karma to the stranded Russian climber. The trek sounds amazing. I did the Annapurna Circuit way back in 1992 (now I hear it's been "improved" into a dirt road). I've always wanted to go back but I've got a 7, 12 and 14 yr. old, and I've always been afraid of how it might have changed. Not that I'd ever have the time pre-retirement, but the Latok trek seems like a chance to walk among cathedrals.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2018 - 08:26pm PT
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Alexander Gukov is still stuck at 6,200 meters. Helicopter is waiting for good enough weather to oull him off with a long line. This report is one hour old.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Jul 29, 2018 - 08:35pm PT
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Amazing he's hanging in there-tough sog!
Hoping for the best, would be an amazing rescue.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2018 - 08:55pm PT
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My goodness Robert L, I have been imprecise in my language. Going back to Latok for me, at 75, never was mean’t to imply that I was going to try to climb it. The area has had a special place in my climbing soul ever since I nearly left my corporeal self there forty years ago.
Had you read my reporting of my trip there with George Lowe in 2016 you would realize that my desires there center around rooting for others to close the circle while personally having a go at neighboring 6,000 meter peaks which now seem more aligned with my current pay grade. I shall henceforth refer to my travels to that area as going back to the Latok area in an effort to meet your approval.
The focus at the moment should be the drama surrounding the attempts to rescue Alexander Gukov.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Jul 29, 2018 - 09:06pm PT
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Semantics Jim, he may have been the only one that questioned your intent. Me, I figured you just want to go back and dance with the locals...
Whatever, I'm still jealous:-)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2018 - 09:15pm PT
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Delhi Dog....i have been working with a dance coach to improve this years.performance.
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Jul 30, 2018 - 07:59am PT
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I applaud you Jim for not being an ass, to an ass. Happy travels.
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Jim Clipper
climber
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Jul 30, 2018 - 11:09am PT
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Fresh brew, warm thoughts, tea.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 30, 2018 - 01:40pm PT
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Unlike Moose, I may not make it to Latok I, but the Subaru and I are now good friends. :)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2018 - 04:07pm PT
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That’s great news Lynne...have fun with the subaru.....leaving in seven hours!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 30, 2018 - 05:41pm PT
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Cheers, to all the Trek expedition! I'm popping some champagne right now and raising a hearty toast to an awesome adventure!
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jul 30, 2018 - 05:44pm PT
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Good luck, Jim. Have fun, and stay safe. I look forward to hearing the stories when you get back.
By which time you'll be owing me a fine bottle of wine.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Jul 30, 2018 - 05:52pm PT
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Delhi Dog I about spit my drink out seeing that video! LOL!!!!!
Thanks!
S....
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Jul 30, 2018 - 06:11pm PT
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^^ yeah, just the ticket for Jim:-)
and Moose, he'll need those moves to shuck 'n jive with the locals, Jim at least has a leg up on 'em having been there before
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2018 - 07:03pm PT
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No fast food burger places but beef is to be had if you’re willing to work for it.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2018 - 07:48pm PT
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Fantastic!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 30, 2018 - 07:48pm PT
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Can't read this, but it looks like a happy ending.....
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Jul 30, 2018 - 07:48pm PT
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^^^ Fuking right on.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 31, 2018 - 04:42pm PT
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Seriously an adventure of a lifetime, dead meat included. If I had lungs, legs and lira I'd join you. :)
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Jul 31, 2018 - 09:29pm PT
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1st or business Jim?- lucky dog...
That photo above shoulda come with a warning...
Doesn't look a like a moose, Moose.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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I'm Jealous..wish I were going. I expect some very cool reports and pics when back!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Sometimes it's grate to be short. Economy works for me. "Simple pleasures are the best".....Bobbie McFerrin Curiously that's my maiden name. :)
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Sounds like an amazing, incredible adventure! Can't wait to see the photos and hear the tale.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Aanif wants to know if you made it to the hotel in Islamabad. Nothing there for him as of this am, Hope you're all good.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Aug 16, 2018 - 06:24pm PT
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Has anyone heard from the tacos? I'd love to hear any news.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 19, 2018 - 08:35am PT
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They're out having "too much fun" to write.
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| Messages 1 - 74 of total 74 in this topic |
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