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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
Gui Pahl
Big Wall climber
Brasilia, Brazil
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 20, 2018 - 05:20pm PT
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Are the Totem Cam any better for offset placements?
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 20, 2018 - 09:28pm PT
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I’ll say it before someone else does: better than what?
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Jun 20, 2018 - 10:51pm PT
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Are the Totem Cam ... better?
Yes
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Jun 21, 2018 - 05:47am PT
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sometimes
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pitu
Trad climber
barcelona, spain
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Jun 21, 2018 - 11:02am PT
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Yes. Always.
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FourSeas
Trad climber
Incline Village, NV
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Jun 21, 2018 - 04:36pm PT
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They don't really replace offsets always. But they fit in weird placements best.
There is this one placement on the Prow where a guy pulled his offset and broke his femur on a 10 foot fall. I remember trying to get an offset to fit in that place because it was an obvious offset placement...and for whatever reason...the offset placement was shaky. Then I plugged in a blue totem and it was bomber.
They also give you way more confidence to backclean, which is what you need to do unless you carry a huge rack.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Jun 21, 2018 - 04:46pm PT
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I prefer bolts.
Always.
Grid-bolting eliminates such arcane questions.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jun 21, 2018 - 04:53pm PT
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Greatest thing since tricams*
*another fidgety piece of sh#t I refuse to carry, inexplicably, I still get up climbs ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jun 21, 2018 - 08:21pm PT
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I'd say there is an overlap. Offsets are meant for flared placements in which the outer pair of cams has to expand more than the inner pair. Totems manage this, perhaps even better than offsets, by loading each cam individually. But all four of the individual Totem cams are the same size, so in principle an offset will be able to accommodate a larger flare.
That said, the individual loading of the cams makes Totems work in weird configurations in which both regular and offset cams do less well (see Allfrey review linked above), and Totems have other advantages, such as claimed higher holding power in slicker rock (they were, after all, designed with limestone rather than granite in mind) reduced tendency to walk, and lower likelihood of getting irretrievably overcammed.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 21, 2018 - 10:53pm PT
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I prefer bolts.
Always.
Grid-bolting eliminates such arcane questions.
Well, it looks like the Ziontologists have recruited another member into their wacko cult.
Gosh darn their fiendish book:
Diarrhetics: The Modern Science of Digestive Health
For me, a hybrid cam with lobes of two different sizes always seemed to be a better choice in a pin scar than a regular cam.
How difficult would it be to disassemble two Totem cams, and swap out parts to make two hybrids?
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Jun 22, 2018 - 09:39am PT
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^^^ ROFL
Well done, Tom. :-)
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jun 22, 2018 - 04:14pm PT
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I go for a totem in flared off set placements before I grab my off set cams. As was mentioned above, they aren't always better but they are almost always better, I would say more than usually.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 22, 2018 - 04:40pm PT
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Totems are better than hybrid aka offset Aliens. One of the four best Aid climbing Innovations of the last 20 years, along with the D4 Portaledge, Big Peckers and the All-FREE-fi.
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HeschMonster
Trad climber
Morro Bay
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Jun 24, 2018 - 11:24pm PT
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Are the Totem Cam better...?
than sex? frankly, it's debatable on the right route...
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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
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