States of the Art


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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 27, 2008 - 10:20pm PT
Oli might know where Jim and Art are these days.

Fig and I needed a ride to Fresno at season's end. It just so happened that Bob Godfrey had a BMW, if I recall correctly, and was driving Art and Jim to the airport and offered to pile us in as well. One thing lead to another and Jim came to the realization that they were running late. Art and Jim couldn't be more different so while Art just smiled knowingly, Jim began to goad on Godfrey to greater speed and passing exploits. He finally backed off when we went three in two and kept the mirrors! Even Jim didn't enjoy that sort of thrill!

Team Freeclimb made their plane and Fig and I had an epic trip back to Tucson........
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 27, 2008 - 10:30pm PT
That's pretty funny - I was going to reply to this post, and accuse Anders of "stealing" the title from an old Mountain mag!

Man, too bad they don't write articles like that any more. It was one of my all-time faves.
Double D

Jan 27, 2008 - 11:05pm PT
Classic post Mark! Many fond memories of you and Max BITD. That large canvas tent that was lined with mattresses was the one that Augie inherited I believe...the infamous "Augwanee Hotel". I still remember when you arrived in the valley with your "tick list" of routes you planned on climbing. I don't think the valley had ever seen such a systematically, well planned siege list, at least not in the 70’s.

Had some great coffee of yours sent to us by mutual friends/family...good stuff! Glad to hear you've still got the stoke!


PS… somewhere I read or were told that you Mt. Bike? Come visit in So. Utah!


Trad climber
Las Vegas
Jan 28, 2008 - 01:07am PT
Great post:
No BS, for the past two days I have been thinking of these two articles and was considering a request.


My first time in the valley was fall 78.
There was a monster 'fixed' tent that fall,
but I recall it was an olive drab, military style.
Anyone remember that one ?

Of all the books and publications I grew up memorizing there were certain standouts. Most actually were (at the time) current magazine articles. 'Art of the states' and 'State of the art' were right up there.

In 1976 there was a National Geographic cover article, "Half dome, clean in three days" Galen et. al. At that time I was 15 and top roping sea boulders and rappelling out of tress. I thought "Holy cow I would be proud to just get up half dome in a week with a hammer"

Three years later, as my first wall I did the route clean, in three days (just like the Gods on the magazine cover). A year or two later a partner (jaybro it was Rutt) got me to go up there and do it in a day. When were planning our 'attack' I recall the beta at the time. So we "just like Hudon and Jones man" simul'd from the top of the 5th up to Big Sandy, stopping for the bolt ladder after the Robbins.

Where would we be without the demigods to inspire us?
Mark Hudon, Max jones = demigods always were, always will be
(forget everything else look at how they cruised 'the prow' on cathedral ;)

Mark I met you once, in the valley when there was a site full of New Hampshire climbers.
I was introduced to you by 'Base' (Paul Boissenault - sp?)
Do you remember/ hear from him ?

Social climber
Jan 28, 2008 - 01:26am PT
Jim's still in the Boulder area. Had a beer with him at the Sheridan at MountainFilm a year or two ago. He's still climbing just fine.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jan 28, 2008 - 03:06pm PT
DD, yes, I mt bike a lot. I'll look you up next time I'm down there. I'll just ask Dean for your address. That's a funny connection (a customer of mine at Hood River Coffee Co. is somehow related to someone in Dave's family) isn't it?

I haven't seen Base (Paul Boissonneault) in more than 25 years. I talked to him on the phone a few years ago. He's a big guy now, hard to believe, but I guess he still gets up 5.11 when he puts his mind to it.

Werner, I can't imagine that the Phoenix was an old, not reported aid route before Jardine did it. I never talked to him about it but I'm sure he pinned out the corner.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 28, 2008 - 03:47pm PT
Ray for sure thought he had discovered Phoenix and was the first one up there. He spent hours and hours with binocs scoping for undiscovered cracks.

Truckee, CA
Jan 28, 2008 - 03:59pm PT
Whew! just dug in to my apartment through a head high wind vortex cornice on the top step of my stair. Mucho cold powder here in Truckee.

Hey Mark, Diegs, Werner and Steve, greetings!

Yeah, bottom of the Phoenix seemed like blatant selective and planned pin scarring, after that it sure is glorious. Fun to remember those classic climbs back east, the Prow, White-eye, Supercrack, and I vaguely remember Base - nice guy. I just moved and had my hands on the slides of the next ascents of those routes,

Love that artist rendered cover pic! Fashions of the 70's!, some of my slides make it look like Mark and I were pirates on the same ship or the same pirate high school play in my case- kind of embarrassing, though I am not embarrassed that I wanted to emulate the Bridwell or Hudon inspired stone-wear style of the day.

Had dinner with Jim Orey last week! He happened to be at a mutual friends, doing great, retired and super psyched on the fact that he got back into climbing last summer!

Mark, whats Paul, your bro up to?

Dave, where and what in Southern Utah?

Off for a quick ski, Enjoy the day!


Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jan 28, 2008 - 04:08pm PT
Paul is married and lives in Colorado. He hasn't climbed in years. He was more into it only because I was. Peggy and Ellen and I are planning a vacation to Tuolomne this summer but we'll probably stop into Truckee for a day or two, I'll look you up.
I have a photo of you hanging around somewhere that I'll have to dig up. It's a good blackmail shot. You look to be about twelve years old and are standing there holding a beer.

Truckee, CA
Jan 28, 2008 - 05:49pm PT
this strange intrusion does not belong on this cool thread, please post it wherever it may belong!

Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2008 - 05:52pm PT
Mark's post suggests that money will be required before the photos disappear. :-)

They can always go into a tribute thread.

Edit: Sorry. Whoever they're of - it wasn't stated - they're good period photos.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jan 28, 2008 - 05:55pm PT
None of those photos are of Peter, so yeah, WTF?

I have all my slides in a box out in the garage so it won't be anytime soon you see that photo!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 28, 2008 - 06:14pm PT
A fun read. I remember a few of the players.

When Jim decided to place that bolt he went casting about in C4 and when he saw me he said, "I know YOU will have an extra bolt!"

(my extremely minor contribution to NW face history)

I ran into Jim at a party in Eldo a few years ago. Looks fit as ever.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 28, 2008 - 09:57pm PT
Can you believe that both Supercrack and Kansas City have been free soloed?
mark miller

Social climber
Jan 28, 2008 - 10:08pm PT
Yeah Mark & Max we my heros also, growing up climbing in CC, NV in 78' they were doing such unbelievable stuff. Even that silly little route at goldilocks, the corner Papa Bear still confuses.11b( Spanks) the Hell out of me. They were an important, but often neglected part of the history leading to modern free climbing( which I still can't do). Anybody want to go do Fantasia or Fear of Flying?( Mortal routes but Fun for us lesser beings)

Maysho just about said it clean it up fool........It's a small planet.....
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jan 28, 2008 - 10:28pm PT
Can you believe that both Supercrack and Kansas City have been free soloed?

I know! Jeez Louise!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 29, 2008 - 11:45am PT
I believe that Russ Clune got his nickname, The Long Necked Geek, after he soloed Supercrack only to fall off it the next time out with a toprope!

Rich Gottlieb bouldered Kansas City which sure impressed the hell out of me when I took a look at the big rail!

Amazing what can be done once you feel like you aren't going to fall off a particular climb!

Big Wall climber
arlington, va
Jan 29, 2008 - 12:01pm PT
Great thread! I remember so well the first time I read that article. I couldn't wait to be like those guys......never quite got there.
I also remember thinking of those Half Dome pictures the first time I was up there. I was able to free a lot in the zig zags, but not the whole thing...heh..heh..
$2.00 for Mtn mag! That's the part I miss!
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jan 29, 2008 - 06:30pm PT
Max and Mark were quite the team and anyone who was climbing back then could not help but to be psyched by the standards being set. The Salathe article was the icing on the cake!

Max and Mark put me on my first 5.12 @ Donner in the summer of 82 and without that day of top roping on snowshed wall, i may never have seen what is possible... I was thrashing up 5.10 and wishing i could climb 5.10+ let alone a route like Manic Depression and Monkey Paws...
thanks to the both of you for inspiring so many climbers back in the day....
Double D

Jan 29, 2008 - 09:03pm PT
Mark: That's a funny connection (a customer of mine at Hood River Coffee Co. is somehow related to someone in Dave's family) isn't it? … It’s a small world, huh? I was so stoked when Rosie and Dean mentioned your name and even more so when I saw your photo’s!!! Edward Hudon indeed! ( I’d start ordering coffee from you as well but I’m like a crack addict trying to stop the habit.

I’ve so many fond memories of you and Max. Stories too, but here’s a photo of you on an early ascent of Fish crack in full Pirate garb:

Peter: where and what in Southern Utah? Near Zion NP, tons of great riding places. It’s not quite as developed as Moab, but it surely rivals it!

My son Jonnie, who is not a big fan of anything athletic except skateboarding, came up last weekend to visit. He reluctantly agreed to go riding with me and we settled on one of my favorites, Gooseberry Mesa. It’s very technical riding in short sections without a lot of leg burning climbs and spectacular scenery. He was beat from a combo of no sleep and the change in altitude, but really wanted to have some father / son time. About two miles into the ride, he was feeling sort of queasy but insisted that he wanted to press on. With the temps being around 43 degrees, it wasn’t a very hospitable environment for long rests so he settled for very brief ones. I could tell that he was “dog tired” and offered to turn around at several points, but he insisted in pressing onward.

Although Jonnie grew up riding, it was never a favorite activity of his (“all star torture”) and that fact the he was even out with me put me on cloud nine. About 3 miles into the ride, he started “getting it”, making the climbs, drops and just being stoked. As beat as he was, the allure of adventure kept him going way past his point of “hitting the wall” physically. We finished the ride and had a great time driving home and listening to our favorite “road trip” music, Stevie Ray Vaughn “Couldn’t Stand The Weather.”

Later that night, he had a twinkle in his eye when he enthusiastically told mom about the ride. After completely whip’n me at several games of serious Scrabble, we finally ended this dad’s almost dream weekend... The “almost” part was the Scrabble…I’m not like’n being spanked by my boy, but there’s always the next grudge match in store.

Happy Trails!


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