J Tree vs Moab vs Red Rock

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 1 - 35 of total 35 in this topic

anita514

Gym climber

Great White North

Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2018 - 10:03am PT

So I am hoping to take a mini vacation towards the end of March (around Easter weekend).
It is a toss up between these 3 destinations. I was in Joshua Tree in January with Pete and Blueblocr and had a great time in the 4 days we spent there.
Never been to Moab though, and I've only once climbed in Red Rock.

If you had 4-5 days to burn, where would you go?

karodrinker

Trad climber

San Jose, CA

Feb 24, 2018 - 10:20am PT

Red Rocks. Moab is bad ass too but Red Rocks patina climbing is unbeatable.

thebravecowboy

climber

The Good Places

Feb 24, 2018 - 10:29am PT

if you want rad summits do moab.

Brian in SLC

Social climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Feb 24, 2018 - 12:23pm PT

Moab can be a bit of a cluster f during the Easter jeep week.

Red Rocks can be somewhat crowded in March...especially around the RRR. The date for the rendezvous is 16-19 March. Easter weekend can be a holiday for folks, so, also busy, but, the area is huge with plenty of options.

Both good options!

Jon Beck

Trad climber

Oceanside

Feb 24, 2018 - 01:20pm PT

Indian Creek, 100s of the best JT cracks, but with an approach

August West

Trad climber

Where the wind blows strange

Feb 24, 2018 - 01:48pm PT

Just for climbing, I would list them as Indian Creek, Red Rock and J Tree.

Weather and crowds can obviously affect the enjoyment.

If you have never been to the Creek, I would highly recommend checking it out.

Trad climber

Calgary

Feb 24, 2018 - 02:04pm PT

You will have to do 3 trips. Start planning them all

thebravecowboy

climber

The Good Places

Feb 24, 2018 - 02:31pm PT

I love the Moab = IC thing. keep em coming boys.

Jeepers are kinda shitty mowab-way for Jeep "Safari" but not too bad if you find the outta the way spots. I think that there is this guy called Jay. Bro. that can set you up right nice and away from that mess

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Feb 24, 2018 - 02:37pm PT

Knowing what little I do about you, Indian Creek would be best.

Red Rock would be okay, too.

10b4me

Social climber

Janie's

Feb 24, 2018 - 03:12pm PT

If you have never been to the Creek, I would highly recommend checking it out.

I agree.
Red Rock is fun, but sometimes you get a lot of tourists clogging the road.

spectreman

Trad climber

Feb 24, 2018 - 03:18pm PT

Red Rocks!

anita514

Gym climber

Great White North

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2018 - 03:35pm PT

I've actually never been to Utah, so I am kinda leaning towards Moab.
I have been told about the Jeep Week thing, and that there is plenty of good climbing in Moab without having to go to IC where I will likely get spanked ;)

And as far as approaches go, the shorter the better!

Trad climber

Calgary

Feb 24, 2018 - 04:28pm PT

Are you flying?
If so Vegas airport is close to the climbing. No waste of time

Rollover

climber

Gross Vegas

Feb 24, 2018 - 04:34pm PT

Anita-
If you end up in Vegas and you need to borrow any gear(ie #5 or6)
An extra rope. Updated guidebooks. Don’t hesitate to reach out.
We would be happy to accommodate. Even a tent or crash pads.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 24, 2018 - 05:05pm PT

Depends on what you want. Jeep week is the. Week leading into Easter and the ' festivities'are easy to avoid. I suspect you know who you can stay with.

If you've been to josh, it's a choice between the other two. RR has the longest free routes and generic sport climbing. Metro Moab has towers, which are a unique experience, and more craging than the other two places combined, and the purist crack climbing you will ever experience.. The local guidebooks are six two-300 page volumes. The most restrictive liquor laws though....

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Feb 24, 2018 - 05:09pm PT

I rarely go to Moab without a four wheel drive.

SC seagoat

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone

Feb 24, 2018 - 05:42pm PT

If she makes it here we got her covered for that. ^^^^^^^

Susan

aldude

climber

Monument Manor

Feb 24, 2018 - 06:25pm PT

Anita...go to Smith !

BLUEBLOCR

Social climber

joshua tree

Feb 24, 2018 - 07:50pm PT

HaHa AlDude is right!

looker is a creep!

Yo Girl, you should plan your time to hit the Red Rock Rondevous! I been, it's hella fun! you can even volunteer to stand around and get free beer and clothes!!!and go climbing whenever you want. Theres lots of perks to hang out and have fun. even a climbing wall;) ring me up i'll go there and climb wit ya! That is if the temp is above 60 degrees. Ha!

jeff constine

Trad climber

Ao Namao

Feb 25, 2018 - 04:10pm PT

Never go to RR during RR Rendezvous, Way overloaded throughout the park, forget it.

Trad climber

Calgary

Feb 25, 2018 - 04:46pm PT

Organized climbing events aren't usually much fun.
I prefer disorganized events any day

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Feb 25, 2018 - 05:07pm PT

Indian Creek...get your groceries in Moab.

StahlBro

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Feb 25, 2018 - 05:22pm PT

If you go to JT around a holiday weekend, you will be sad. The crowds are disheartening these days. There are great new routes off the beaten path, but getting in and out of the park and camping are getting ugly. Jumbo Rocks is now reservation only. IC is probably a great option.

Melissa

Gym climber

berkeley, ca

Feb 25, 2018 - 05:45pm PT

If you would have more fun in Moab than IC, then you'd probably have more fun in Red Rocks than in Moab.

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

Feb 25, 2018 - 06:44pm PT

There's more to climbing Utah than just Moab.
Grand Staircase/Escalante NM, Bears Ears NM, Capitol Reef NP are all
great places to climb!

Gary

Social climber

Desolation Basin, Calif.

Feb 26, 2018 - 07:37am PT

Between those three during Easter I'd choose Christmas Tree Pass. You'd have it all to yourself. Some classic old school ground up routes. Wilkinson Sword is the most interesting 5.6 in the world. Trac II is exhilirating. Lots of bolts have been replaced. Lots of FA potential.

Batrock

Trad climber

Burbank

Feb 26, 2018 - 07:47am PT

Saline Wall. Pete knows where it is. Climbing and soaking, what more could you want.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Saline-Valley-The-Saline-Wall/t12709n.html

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Feb 26, 2018 - 09:21am PT

Cochise Stronghold offers the skin abrasion experience of J Tree with longer routes and no crowds,

San Rafael Swell offers both Navajo and Wingate (as well as towers) within short drives so ticking off the Moab and Red Rock climbing experiences is possible without the crowds.

But that's just my experience. YMMV

If you need people around, neither of these suggestions will work for you.

Off White

climber

Tenino, WA

Feb 26, 2018 - 09:45am PT

As noted, it depends on what you want.

Hard to beat Indian Creek for pure crack climbing, but you want to climbing well enough you consider 5.10 a warm up.

Moab area is going to be pretty great for adventure climbing, towers, and poking around.

Red Rocks has some of the best long moderate free climbs in the country. The sport climbing crags are pretty so-so, but the canyons offer something really special. Not so short approaches though, and best to start early in the day.

Josh is cool too, but these days I usually go there for the people I know rather than the climbing.

Whatever you do, tell us stories when you get back.

Fat Dad

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Feb 26, 2018 - 11:27am PT

Hard to beat Indian Creek for pure crack climbing, but you want to climbing well enough you consider 5.10 a warm up.

Good point. A lot of folks don't seem to know this going in. There are a few easier things, but you have to hunt for them. Another big consideration is the number of cams you have or can borrow. The only time I've been to Moab (or IC), I only had 2-3 of each size, which meant I couldn't really climb much of anything other than your short, oddball climb. Having said that, there are fun towers (Castleton, etc.) or stuff along Potash Road, where most climbs don't require a gear store worth of cams.

August West

Trad climber

Where the wind blows strange

Feb 26, 2018 - 01:04pm PT

I rarely go to Moab without a four wheel drive.

High clearance is more important than four wheel drive. Sure if it is muddy. But mud usually means rain and that usually means you aren't climbing. There is plenty to get to and do with a low clearance, 2 wheel drive rental.

Hard to beat Indian Creek for pure crack climbing, but you want to climbing well enough you consider 5.10 a warm up.

If the time frame is only 4 or 5 days and you can climb 5.9, you could stick mostly to friendly hand sized cracks and do ok. In my opinion. Sure you will have to search them out and crowds can always be a factor.

Having said that, there are fun towers (Castleton, etc.) or stuff along Potash Road, where most climbs don't require a gear store worth of cams.

I'm not sure I would recommend a tower without getting used to the rock by climbing at the Indian Creek first. The towers might have an easier rating but they seem to have a higher adventure factor. I suppose there are some well protected easy routes. Probably pretty crowded also.

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber

Pomfert VT

Feb 26, 2018 - 04:45pm PT

For some reason I have never been even remotely tempted to go to Josh..

RR on the other hand is fabulous!

Learned more about crack climbing in 2 days at IC than I had learned in the previous 14 years of climbing.

Lots of stuff in Utah is great. good towers in the Moab area.
the Swell is wicked cool. St George area user friendly and close to vegas. Zion is terrifying! This is all from an eastern climbers perspective.