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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 26, 2018 - 08:13am PT
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Don’t any of you read the news?
REUTERS:
Jan 26, 2018 at 7:12 AM PST
Bid to rescue Polish man, French woman on Pakistan peak to start Saturday
By Saad Sayeed and Marcin Goettig | ISLAMABAD/WARSAW
Efforts to rescue a Polish man and a French woman stuck on a treacherous peak in northern Pakistan known to mountaineers as "Killer Mountain" are set to begin on Saturday, officials said.
Tomasz Mackiewicz from Poland and Elisabeth Revol of France were attempting to ascend 8,126 metre (26,660 feet) Nanga Parbat in Pakistan's Himalaya mountain range.
Four members from a team of Polish climbers attempting the first winter summit of nearby K2, the world's second highest mountain, will assist in the rescue operation after a Pakistan Army helicopter picks them up from their base camp and flies them to Nanga Parbat.
"They will be brought from K2 to Nanga Parbat and then the operation will begin," Asghar Porik of Jasmine Tours told Reuters on Friday.
Mackiewicz and Revol got stuck at the 7,400 meter mark from where they used a satellite phone to call for help, spokesman for the Alpine Club of Pakistan Karrar Haidri told Reuters.
"We have no contact now with Tomasz," said Janusz Majer, who helped prepare the Polish expedition team currently scaling K2, adding that messages sent by Revol said Mackiewicz was suffering from snow blindness and frostbite.
"We do not know in what condition he is in. He hid himself in a crevasse to seek protection from wind. Tomasz in the past has spent a couple of nights above 7,000 metres, but with all the needed equipment ... Now he has no tent," Majer said.
Mackiewicz has made six previous attempts to scale Nanga Parbat in winter. The first successful winter ascent of the mountain was made as recently as February 2016.
A GoFundMe web page set up to raise the estimated 50,000 euros ($62,000)required to pay for the rescue operation costs reached its target in four hours.
Pakistan rivals Nepal for the number of peaks over 7,000 meters (23,000 feet).
Iqbal Hussain, the head of the tourism department for Pakistan's Gilgit region, where Nanga Parbat is located, told Reuters that the rescue operation would begin on Saturday.
The Polish foreign ministry said on Twitter that it would assist with the rescue operation, and "on the ground efforts are being coordinated by the Polish Embassy in Islamabad".
In June a Spanish man and an Argentinian perished in an avalanche while trying to scale Nanga Parbat.
(Reporting by Saad Sayeed, Editing by William Maclean)
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Don Paul
Mountain climber
Denver CO
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Jan 26, 2018 - 08:58am PT
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Pakistan Geographic on facebook has pictures, hard to link here. Looks like the plan is to land helicopter on ice slope and climb up to them.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 26, 2018 - 01:44pm PT
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hey there say, Reilly...
say, i try to at times, :)
been extra busy, helping friends, here and studying, too...
and, such...
thanks for sharing this...
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 26, 2018 - 09:02pm PT
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WoW! I hope they both make it!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 26, 2018 - 09:31pm PT
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http://rockandice.com/climbing-news/rescue-effort-nanga-parbat-stranded-alpinists/
A description on the webpage of a crowdfunding campaign to help with the costs of this year’s expedition succinctly captures the singular motivation behind Mackiewicz’s obsession with a winter ascent of Nanga Parbat:
Tomek wants to successfully end several years of trying to achieve his goal and to free his mind from the vision of the summit of Nanga Parbat and prove, both to himself and the world, that it is worth persevering in the pursuit of a goal. This goal is real and imminent. Wanda Rutkiewicz said “the value of the climb is determined not only by whether your reach the top, but how you climbed,” and Tomek wants to achieve his goal with these words in mind. Climbing to the top of Nanga is not about conquering or taming the mountain. It is about being face to face with a perfect beauty and becoming a force 1,000 times more powerful than yourself.
For further updates on the rescue effort and to contribute to the fundraising campaign visit: https://www.gofundme.com/rescue-on-nanga-parbat.
https://vimeo.com/241333050?from=outro-embed
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Jan 27, 2018 - 04:30am PT
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Weather not looking good at the moment for the helicopters:
Update 8:00 27 January Pakistan time
The helicopters are waiting for better weather before flying to K2 base camp thus delaying the attempt to help those on Nanga. If the K2 team cannot be reached four high altitude porters will be helicopter to 6300 meters to render aid. Revol has been in contact and reports frostbite but she seems to be surviving.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Jan 27, 2018 - 06:03am PT
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Nanga Parbat Rescue Update # 9 (27/01/2018)
The Poles from K2 expedition are finally at the Nanga Parbat for the rescue of two stranded climbers. The helicopters dropped the climbers at Camp 1, from there they have initiated the upward ascent. They have not much time to decide, what to do and how to do.
It looks they will go on climbing even during the night to reach Elisabeth; two of them may take her back and the other two go up to Tomek.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 27, 2018 - 06:15am PT
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very awesome that himalayn climbers abandon their goals to help in a rescue..
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jan 27, 2018 - 07:04am PT
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Hooman, this is hairy. Wishing for the best outcome.
BAd
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Jan 27, 2018 - 07:33am PT
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A few more details from the GoFundMe site:
Helicopter did not succeed in getting high enough to pick up Eli. It has dropped off rescuers includig Denis Urubko and Adam Bielicki at C1 at 4,800m. They have a tracker on them and have last been seen at 5,225m. They will continue climbing up through the night. They are both well acclimatised on K2 and extraordinarily strong. Elisabeth took a decision to start a descent down from 6700m towards them provided she can find fixed ropes. She has not battery power left. We believe in the strength of her spirit.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 27, 2018 - 07:44am PT
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Fck, hope she makes it. the guy up high has really slim chances......
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Jan 27, 2018 - 01:47pm PT
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Great news! Here is the 7th Update from the GoFundMe site:
Urubko and Bielecki are with Elisabeth - info from two other climbers who are there and have radio contact with them. We are crying from happiness
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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Jan 27, 2018 - 01:49pm PT
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Great news, thanks for the updates Bruce! Great to see others sacrificing for the well being of others.
Peace
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Jan 27, 2018 - 10:04pm PT
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Gnar. Good luck.
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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Jan 27, 2018 - 10:58pm PT
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BBC:
A French climber stranded on top of one of Pakistan's most deadly mountains is safe after a dramatic rescue operation.
The search for her Polish climbing partner, however, has been called off.
Elisabeth Revol and Tomasz Mackiewicz were climbing Nanga Parbat, nicknamed "Killer Mountain", when they got stuck at 7,400m (24,280ft) on Friday.
An elite climbing team from Poland who were on nearby K2 rushed to the rescue, scaling the mountain overnight to find Ms Revol alive.
Four members of the team, who had been attempting the first winter ascent of K2 - the second highest mountain in the world - were brought to Nanga Parbat by a Pakistani military helicopter.
They were dropped off about 1,000 metres below the lost climbers' last known location.
Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki began the climb while Jaroslaw Botor and Piotr Tomala established a camp.
Contact with Ms Revol and Mr Mackiewicz had been lost as the team climbed towards their last known location.
Then, in the early hours of Sunday morning local time, the climbing team's Facebook page announced: "Elisabeth Revol found!"
Tomasz Mackiewicz, however, had been separated from Ms Revol. Earlier reports said that he had been suffering from frostbite and snow blindness.
Ludovic Giambiasi, a friend of Ms Revol's who had been in sporadic contact with her, said the climbers would rest for an hour or two in the open air before beginning the descent with Mr Revol.
"The rescue for Tomasz is unfortunately not possible," he wrote. "Because of the weather and altitude it would put the life of rescuers in extreme danger.
"It's a terrible and painful decision. We are in deep sadness. All our thoughts go out to Tomek's family and friends. We are crying."
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Jan 28, 2018 - 06:31am PT
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very awesome that himalayn climbers abandon their goals to help in a rescue..
I second that tradmanclimbs. Kudos to them.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Jan 28, 2018 - 09:36am PT
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An update from the GoFundMe site as of about 7hrs ago:
As of a few minutes ago Elisabeth was finally on a helicopter bound for Islamabad via Skardu. The retrieval operation was not straight forward as the helicopter could not land at 4800m. Polish team and Eli had to descend further down to BC. It was touch and go whether heli could stay and wait or will have to go and thus lose a precious flying window. I bow to all of you for helping us fund this and to the team led by Ludo for weathering the past 72 hours. We will account for every penny raised. Any money left after the rescue expenses will go Tomek’s wife and his children.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 28, 2018 - 05:05pm PT
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Relieved that they got Elizabeth down. Bummed about her partner. Huge burden to carry for everyone involved.
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Don Paul
Gym climber
Denver CO
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Feb 24, 2018 - 05:13pm PT
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The saga continues. Denis Urubko, one of the two rescuers of Elisabeth Revol on Nanga Parbat last month, just left K2 base camp to make a solo push for the summit, which would be the first winter ascent. He left by himself without telling anyone else, apparently in bad weather. Although it's disputed, some people believe the winter season ends on February 28. The team had decided to acclimatize and wait for better weather, which would only count as a normal ascent of K2.
Denis Urubko leaves to try the top of the winter K2 solo
I can't help being mesmerized by these things, not that different from rubbernecking to look at a traffic accident. Well, I hope he makes it and achieves his goal. I'll be following this life and death adventure, just like the Nanga Parbat one.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Feb 24, 2018 - 11:57pm PT
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From the link
The decision of Denis (of Russian nationality but who recently also has Polish nationality) is generating a great public debate in Poland. The Polish expedition is fully sponsored by the Polish government. The feelings move between the criticism of Denis' decision to respect the decisions of the expedition leader, to those who value this decision (Urubko's) that is part of the history of mountaineering (remember Hermann Buhl or Reinhold Messner in the Nanga Parbat, both against the orders of the expedition leader, which was the same: Karl Herrligkoffer ). But the priority at this time, as it is evident in the own statement of Wielicki, the head of the expedition, is to support Wielicki (I think the writer got it wrong and that it is Urubko getting the support) as much as possible, for which a second team has been sent to the C3 and sherpas with oxygen bottles, to attend a possible emergency, to the base camp advancing.
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Don Paul
Gym climber
Denver CO
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Feb 26, 2018 - 03:04am PT
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Looks like a happy ending, Urubko was just spotted descending from K2 Camp 2 back to base camp.
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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Feb 26, 2018 - 12:08pm PT
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it's not the first time there was drama on this mountain. perhaps the first involved treachery by one group of mountaineers-on the same team-to another, in a move that should have killed the others:
http://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-28696985
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