More drama on ‘Killer Mountain’

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Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 26, 2018 - 08:13am PT
Don’t any of you read the news?

REUTERS:
Jan 26, 2018 at 7:12 AM PST

Bid to rescue Polish man, French woman on Pakistan peak to start Saturday

By Saad Sayeed and Marcin Goettig | ISLAMABAD/WARSAW
Efforts to rescue a Polish man and a French woman stuck on a treacherous peak in northern Pakistan known to mountaineers as "Killer Mountain" are set to begin on Saturday, officials said.
Tomasz Mackiewicz from Poland and Elisabeth Revol of France were attempting to ascend 8,126 metre (26,660 feet) Nanga Parbat in Pakistan's Himalaya mountain range.
Four members from a team of Polish climbers attempting the first winter summit of nearby K2, the world's second highest mountain, will assist in the rescue operation after a Pakistan Army helicopter picks them up from their base camp and flies them to Nanga Parbat.
"They will be brought from K2 to Nanga Parbat and then the operation will begin," Asghar Porik of Jasmine Tours told Reuters on Friday.
Mackiewicz and Revol got stuck at the 7,400 meter mark from where they used a satellite phone to call for help, spokesman for the Alpine Club of Pakistan Karrar Haidri told Reuters.
"We have no contact now with Tomasz," said Janusz Majer, who helped prepare the Polish expedition team currently scaling K2, adding that messages sent by Revol said Mackiewicz was suffering from snow blindness and frostbite.
"We do not know in what condition he is in. He hid himself in a crevasse to seek protection from wind. Tomasz in the past has spent a couple of nights above 7,000 metres, but with all the needed equipment ... Now he has no tent," Majer said.
Mackiewicz has made six previous attempts to scale Nanga Parbat in winter. The first successful winter ascent of the mountain was made as recently as February 2016.
A GoFundMe web page set up to raise the estimated 50,000 euros ($62,000)required to pay for the rescue operation costs reached its target in four hours.
Pakistan rivals Nepal for the number of peaks over 7,000 meters (23,000 feet).
Iqbal Hussain, the head of the tourism department for Pakistan's Gilgit region, where Nanga Parbat is located, told Reuters that the rescue operation would begin on Saturday.
The Polish foreign ministry said on Twitter that it would assist with the rescue operation, and "on the ground efforts are being coordinated by the Polish Embassy in Islamabad".
In June a Spanish man and an Argentinian perished in an avalanche while trying to scale Nanga Parbat.
(Reporting by Saad Sayeed, Editing by William Maclean)
Don Paul

Mountain climber
Denver CO
Jan 26, 2018 - 08:58am PT
Pakistan Geographic on facebook has pictures, hard to link here. Looks like the plan is to land helicopter on ice slope and climb up to them.
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Jan 26, 2018 - 01:40pm PT
Here's the latest update from the GoFundMe page:

Dear climbing community and friends,
First of all a huge heartfelt thank you for your generosity and a prompt action from all of us.
A brief update from the rescue HQ:
 Eli managed to bring Tomek down to 7280m this morning and set him up in a tent to spend the night while the rescue effort gets under way early tomorrow morning.
 There is a good coordination of the French/Polish diplomats and the military
 Eli is in the process of descending down and has last communicated from 6671m. Though she has no tent, she is clearly lucid and is making progress on descent to help get rescue effort under way.
 K2 Polish climbing team of 4 will be picked up tomorrow from their base camp by a helicopter to mount a rescue attempt from the base camp of Nanga Parbat.
 If the weather allows, rescuers with oxygen and food will be dropped off at a higher altitude
 Your generosity and the help of Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Poland has helped fund the effort.

We will continue of course updating you live on the rescue effort.

Masha Gordon
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 26, 2018 - 01:44pm PT
hey there say, Reilly...

say, i try to at times, :)

been extra busy, helping friends, here and studying, too...

and, such...



thanks for sharing this...
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 26, 2018 - 09:02pm PT
WoW! I hope they both make it!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 26, 2018 - 09:31pm PT
http://rockandice.com/climbing-news/rescue-effort-nanga-parbat-stranded-alpinists/

A description on the webpage of a crowdfunding campaign to help with the costs of this year’s expedition succinctly captures the singular motivation behind Mackiewicz’s obsession with a winter ascent of Nanga Parbat:

Tomek wants to successfully end several years of trying to achieve his goal and to free his mind from the vision of the summit of Nanga Parbat and prove, both to himself and the world, that it is worth persevering in the pursuit of a goal. This goal is real and imminent. Wanda Rutkiewicz said “the value of the climb is determined not only by whether your reach the top, but how you climbed,” and Tomek wants to achieve his goal with these words in mind. Climbing to the top of Nanga is not about conquering or taming the mountain. It is about being face to face with a perfect beauty and becoming a force 1,000 times more powerful than yourself.

For further updates on the rescue effort and to contribute to the fundraising campaign visit: https://www.gofundme.com/rescue-on-nanga-parbat.

https://vimeo.com/241333050?from=outro-embed
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
Jan 26, 2018 - 10:15pm PT
https://www.facebook.com/PkGeographic/
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Jan 27, 2018 - 04:30am PT
Weather not looking good at the moment for the helicopters:

Update 8:00 27 January Pakistan time

The helicopters are waiting for better weather before flying to K2 base camp thus delaying the attempt to help those on Nanga. If the K2 team cannot be reached four high altitude porters will be helicopter to 6300 meters to render aid. Revol has been in contact and reports frostbite but she seems to be surviving.
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Jan 27, 2018 - 06:03am PT
Nanga Parbat Rescue Update # 9 (27/01/2018)

The Poles from K2 expedition are finally at the Nanga Parbat for the rescue of two stranded climbers. The helicopters dropped the climbers at Camp 1, from there they have initiated the upward ascent. They have not much time to decide, what to do and how to do.

It looks they will go on climbing even during the night to reach Elisabeth; two of them may take her back and the other two go up to Tomek.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 27, 2018 - 06:15am PT
very awesome that himalayn climbers abandon their goals to help in a rescue..
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Jan 27, 2018 - 07:04am PT
Hooman, this is hairy. Wishing for the best outcome.

BAd
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Jan 27, 2018 - 07:33am PT
A few more details from the GoFundMe site:

Helicopter did not succeed in getting high enough to pick up Eli. It has dropped off rescuers includig Denis Urubko and Adam Bielicki at C1 at 4,800m. They have a tracker on them and have last been seen at 5,225m. They will continue climbing up through the night. They are both well acclimatised on K2 and extraordinarily strong. Elisabeth took a decision to start a descent down from 6700m towards them provided she can find fixed ropes. She has not battery power left. We believe in the strength of her spirit.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 27, 2018 - 07:44am PT
Fck, hope she makes it. the guy up high has really slim chances......
Don Paul

Mountain climber
Denver CO
Jan 27, 2018 - 11:01am PT
-60C, bad weather, two helicopters, heroic rescue underway: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.samaa.tv/pakistan/2018/01/search-underway-climbers-nanga-parbat/amp\

BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Jan 27, 2018 - 01:47pm PT
Great news! Here is the 7th Update from the GoFundMe site:

Urubko and Bielecki are with Elisabeth - info from two other climbers who are there and have radio contact with them. We are crying from happiness
ron gomez

Trad climber
Jan 27, 2018 - 01:49pm PT
Great news, thanks for the updates Bruce! Great to see others sacrificing for the well being of others.
Peace
F

climber
away from the ground
Jan 27, 2018 - 10:04pm PT
Gnar. Good luck.
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
Jan 27, 2018 - 10:58pm PT



BBC:


A French climber stranded on top of one of Pakistan's most deadly mountains is safe after a dramatic rescue operation.
The search for her Polish climbing partner, however, has been called off.
Elisabeth Revol and Tomasz Mackiewicz were climbing Nanga Parbat, nicknamed "Killer Mountain", when they got stuck at 7,400m (24,280ft) on Friday.

An elite climbing team from Poland who were on nearby K2 rushed to the rescue, scaling the mountain overnight to find Ms Revol alive.
Four members of the team, who had been attempting the first winter ascent of K2 - the second highest mountain in the world - were brought to Nanga Parbat by a Pakistani military helicopter.
They were dropped off about 1,000 metres below the lost climbers' last known location.

Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki began the climb while Jaroslaw Botor and Piotr Tomala established a camp.
Contact with Ms Revol and Mr Mackiewicz had been lost as the team climbed towards their last known location.
Then, in the early hours of Sunday morning local time, the climbing team's Facebook page announced: "Elisabeth Revol found!"

Tomasz Mackiewicz, however, had been separated from Ms Revol. Earlier reports said that he had been suffering from frostbite and snow blindness.
Ludovic Giambiasi, a friend of Ms Revol's who had been in sporadic contact with her, said the climbers would rest for an hour or two in the open air before beginning the descent with Mr Revol.



"The rescue for Tomasz is unfortunately not possible," he wrote. "Because of the weather and altitude it would put the life of rescuers in extreme danger.

"It's a terrible and painful decision. We are in deep sadness. All our thoughts go out to Tomek's family and friends. We are crying."
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 28, 2018 - 06:28am PT
hey there say, ken m... i think you already shared the newest update...

i just saw this... but, i think? it is the same...

https://www.yahoo.com/news/rough-weather-hampers-rescue-climbers-himalayas-071058383.html
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California, now Ireland
Jan 28, 2018 - 06:31am PT
very awesome that himalayn climbers abandon their goals to help in a rescue..

I second that tradmanclimbs. Kudos to them.
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Jan 28, 2018 - 09:36am PT
An update from the GoFundMe site as of about 7hrs ago:

As of a few minutes ago Elisabeth was finally on a helicopter bound for Islamabad via Skardu. The retrieval operation was not straight forward as the helicopter could not land at 4800m. Polish team and Eli had to descend further down to BC. It was touch and go whether heli could stay and wait or will have to go and thus lose a precious flying window. I bow to all of you for helping us fund this and to the team led by Ludo for weathering the past 72 hours. We will account for every penny raised. Any money left after the rescue expenses will go Tomek’s wife and his children.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 28, 2018 - 05:05pm PT
Relieved that they got Elizabeth down. Bummed about her partner. Huge burden to carry for everyone involved.
LAhiker

Social climber
Los Angeles
Jan 28, 2018 - 05:27pm PT
I"m glad they were able to save Elisabeth Revol but it's very sad that they had to call off the search for Tomasz Mackiewicz. Here's a Washington Post article about the rescue.

https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/worldviews/wp/2018/01/28/the-desperate-attempt-to-save-frostbitten-climbers-on-one-of-the-worlds-highest-peaks/

Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Jan 28, 2018 - 11:55pm PT
Here's a first hand account of the rescue by Drubko. The translation scrambles the pronouns frequently but is otherwise compelling

https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.desnivel.com%2Fexpediciones%2Falpinistas%2Fdenis-urubko-ha-sido-una-experiencia-maravillosa-ayudar-a-sobrevivir-a-una-persona-tan-extraordinaria-como-elisabeth-revol&edit-text=


Don Paul

Gym climber
Denver CO
Feb 24, 2018 - 05:13pm PT
The saga continues. Denis Urubko, one of the two rescuers of Elisabeth Revol on Nanga Parbat last month, just left K2 base camp to make a solo push for the summit, which would be the first winter ascent. He left by himself without telling anyone else, apparently in bad weather. Although it's disputed, some people believe the winter season ends on February 28. The team had decided to acclimatize and wait for better weather, which would only count as a normal ascent of K2.

Denis Urubko leaves to try the top of the winter K2 solo

I can't help being mesmerized by these things, not that different from rubbernecking to look at a traffic accident. Well, I hope he makes it and achieves his goal. I'll be following this life and death adventure, just like the Nanga Parbat one.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 24, 2018 - 11:57pm PT

From the link

The decision of Denis (of Russian nationality but who recently also has Polish nationality) is generating a great public debate in Poland. The Polish expedition is fully sponsored by the Polish government. The feelings move between the criticism of Denis' decision to respect the decisions of the expedition leader, to those who value this decision (Urubko's) that is part of the history of mountaineering (remember Hermann Buhl or Reinhold Messner in the Nanga Parbat, both against the orders of the expedition leader, which was the same: Karl Herrligkoffer ). But the priority at this time, as it is evident in the own statement of Wielicki, the head of the expedition, is to support Wielicki (I think the writer got it wrong and that it is Urubko getting the support) as much as possible, for which a second team has been sent to the C3 and sherpas with oxygen bottles, to attend a possible emergency, to the base camp advancing.

Don Paul

Gym climber
Denver CO
Feb 26, 2018 - 03:04am PT
Looks like a happy ending, Urubko was just spotted descending from K2 Camp 2 back to base camp.
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
Feb 26, 2018 - 12:08pm PT
it's not the first time there was drama on this mountain. perhaps the first involved treachery by one group of mountaineers-on the same team-to another, in a move that should have killed the others:


http://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-28696985
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