Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 64 of total 64 in this topic |
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 28, 2017 - 06:34pm PT
|
Since this art is going digital very quickly, let's see some obscure and not so obscure guidebooks. I'll start...
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2017 - 05:02am PT
|
Nice, Durrance Route? Just guessing based on the pack, thermos, full guidebook, etc.
|
|
Don Paul
Mountain climber
Denver CO
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2017 - 05:21am PT
|
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2017 - 05:37am PT
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2017 - 06:00am PT
|
Soler. that (thermos) is the summit register canister. I had not been there is 20 something years so brought the guide to help find rapells etc...
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2017 - 09:21am PT
|
|
|
Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2017 - 10:08am PT
|
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2017 - 02:39pm PT
|
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2017 - 04:10pm PT
|
My Gunks guidebooks. Inside the yellow box, left to right: The 1964 Art Gran book (mint), the first Dick Williams guide (1972, mint), the second Dick Williams guide (1980, mint). I think I memorized that 1980 guide and have two other, very well worn copies. Works of art, IMO. I have additional, working copies of most of those others, too. I think one of the Swain guides is completely duct taped for in the field use.
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2017 - 04:15pm PT
|
Don Lauria and Sierra Ledge Rat, good stuff! Love that old (original?) Meyers guide.
|
|
looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2017 - 04:58pm PT
|
Hey Gunkie, Love all the Gunks guides.
Here is a Gran Guide with the original velum dust jacket.
|
|
BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2017 - 05:11pm PT
|
How long before SteelMonkey shows the complete collection? 😀
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2017 - 05:15pm PT
|
I'm not an old guidebook collector. I got rid of most of the old ones just before I moved 4 yrs ago. Often, when I get the latest version of a guidebook, I give the older version to visiting climbers.
|
|
kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2017 - 05:42pm PT
|
Here's a few from my collection...
|
|
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2017 - 05:47pm PT
|
My first guide, though not a book.
And my first roped climb.
From late 1967.
Pete Cleveland was here.
|
|
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2017 - 06:11pm PT
|
In the obscure category, a guide to bouldering in South Africa:
cover art by Anita Harker
in 1995/96 the nearest town was Pietersburg. It has been re-named Polokwane. It is in South Africa.
It may be the first climbing guide to make use of American Sign Language.
Joe Rockheads is a glue-on traverse.
A Local at the traverse.
Topo from the guide compared with photos
Under the Pink
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2017 - 07:55pm PT
|
.
I think I have around 800
|
|
steve s
Trad climber
eldo
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2017 - 08:45pm PT
|
Todd wins !
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2017 - 09:07pm PT
|
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2017 - 07:10am PT
|
Looking at Todd Gordon's collection and I'm coming away very impressed with the robustness of that bookshelf. No sag.
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2017 - 07:40am PT
|
You need to know who's what you are looking at- Gordo's is for sure a solid bookcase but this is Donz'es, and thank you again godfather THE PICTURE THAT SHOWS THE BONG HANGING OFF THE DOLT PIN ( whatz that pin under "The Teton Range"- bottom Rt corner ?!)
I'll offer that the book is not that rare but the hand-out pam-phlet?! thats prolly one of less than 500.
this, 1962
|
|
seano
Mountain climber
none
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2017 - 08:08am PT
|
That Fryxell guide is a treasure -- I'll have to look at it the next time I visit the AAC library.
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2017 - 08:26am PT
|
The thing I didn't anticipate is the 'want' to open up some of these or pull at random from those bookshelves. The 1932 Tetons book is of particular interest. Love the old Lover's Leap typed pages and that SA bouldering guide.
Not too obscure, but has memories of getting scared often.
|
|
BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2017 - 09:26am PT
|
Love the super old/basic 'guides', very cool stuff!
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2017 - 10:30am PT
|
I'm sure Todd has all of these--he's obviously the king of guidebook owners.
But there some of the old ones I've collected over the eons. . .
|
|
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2017 - 02:48pm PT
|
From a John Stannard guide to Seneca Rocks.
The guide outlasted some of the rock.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2017 - 06:57pm PT
|
I used to have that Stannard guide--but I sent it to Jstan since
he didn't have any for himself!
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2017 - 07:04pm PT
|
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2017 - 07:07am PT
|
Spectacular stuff all around.
I, too, stood on top of the Gendarme three years before it went down. I was really freaked out when I heard it fell.
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2017 - 09:05am PT
|
Guidebook for a small area just north of the Lehigh Valley (PA) and the Appalachian Trail. I don't even know if this place is still open for climbing. Some famous people put up routes here including Hugh Herr, Bob DiAntonio and others. I got caught in a forest fire here in 1990 and almost ran the wrong way and would have been in big trouble if my climbing partner didn't yell down from the top of the crag and tell me the right way to go.
|
|
karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
|
|
|
Dec 31, 2017 - 10:19am PT
|
Mount Lemmon, Tucson AZ. This is the first guidebook I wrote, published January 1991. Eric Fazio-Ricard who wrote the large guidebooks to Mount Lemmon helped me edit this guide to Windy Point.
During the creation of the first Queen Creek guidebook I met my wife who by chance was working in a magazine publishing company. She taught me a lot about design, layouts and more and helped in the final publishing process. Published 11/1991 by Scott Hynes and Marty Karabin. Unfortunately years later due to family issues Scott hung himself with his climbing rope. I must say I did not enjoy working with Scott on this book at all. I did 90 percent of the work in its creation while he dragged his feet through the process and he never came up with any cash to pay for the printing. I guess it was necessary for me to go through this process which gave me the inspiration to create the second guide to Queen Creek Canyon. Due to the conflict that I had with Scott I ended up donating every penny that the book made to the Access Fund.
I put everything I had into the Rock Jocks guide to Queen Creek Canyon guidebook. At the same time I totally overbuilt the book. Pages are 70lb stock and the whitest paper available in the USA. The cover is thick stock with laminate coating and rounded corners. Photos were drummed scanned and bleed off of the pages. Over 100 photos and 200 illustrations were created for the book. The book cost over $25,000 to produce. At the 2000 OR show in Utah I was told that there was a guidebook poll between the editors of the climbing magazines and Chockstone press and others that awarded my Queen Creek guidebook the third greatest guide to be created to date. #1 was Smith Rock (because it was the birthplace of sport climbing, and #2 was Hueco Tanks because John Sherman had a lot of pull with the magazines, and he helped develop the bouldering V system. These days there are many amazing guidebooks out there because of better computer programs and advances in the printing process. Rock Jocks Guide to Queen Creek Canyon AZ, published 11/1996. Props to Randi Karabin and the many many others that helped. A few years ago on ebay a Queen Creek guidebook sold for $751.00. Average ebay auction final for the book is $150-$400. Amazon has it listed as a collectors item worth $60 used.
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2018 - 01:30pm PT
|
Who's climbed at this sh1th0le of a place?
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2018 - 07:03am PT
|
Ledge Rat, nice photo. Is that Manufactured? I've also climbed at Grand Ledge in your area and enjoyed that more.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
|
|
Shy of Gordo's collection, I have yet to see most of the Cali-based folks show that they have copies of the Vernon/Moser books (ie The Needles, SEKI and Domelands). Shame shame!
|
|
Ledge Rat
Trad climber
Michigan
|
|
Thanks Gunkie! The one trip that I made to Bellefonte Quarry was a LONG time ago! I don’t even think we had a guidebook, so I’m not sure what routes we did. Here is another photo higher up on the route if you can identify it.
Glad you had a nice Grand Ledge experience, that place has been my home crag since 1982.
Jeff
|
|
Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
|
|
Yeah Bellefonte was. Shithole, but was ours!
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
My coolest guidebook is this one:
Fontainebleau. January 1947. Area: La Dame Jeanne
|
|
Donno
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
|
|
|
|
SCMF01
Trad climber
Dana Point, Ca.
|
|
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
Some very cool old guidebooks here. That Font guide is in amazing shape, Marlow.
|
|
bookie
climber
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2018 - 02:03am PT
|
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2018 - 09:00am PT
|
Nice additions!
|
|
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2018 - 09:06am PT
|
Incroyable!
|
|
troutboy
Trad climber
Newark, DE
|
|
|
Jan 12, 2018 - 08:03pm PT
|
Hey Jeff. Is that Clifton Gorge guide for the Clifton Gorge near Dayton, Ohio by any chance ?
|
|
Ledge Rat
Trad climber
Michigan
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2018 - 10:42am PT
|
Yes it is. I lived very close to CG in the early 80’s.
Jeff
|
|
Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2018 - 11:05am PT
|
Re the picture up thread at Bellefonte looks like "the flake". Tricky hard to protect until added bolts
|
|
Ledge Rat
Trad climber
Michigan
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2018 - 11:43am PT
|
Thanks Evel.
Jeff
|
|
Ledge Rat
Trad climber
Michigan
|
|
|
Jan 22, 2018 - 02:36pm PT
|
Jeff
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jan 22, 2018 - 02:44pm PT
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
built a new shelf for the guides. a few of the more interesting ones....
|
|
Ledge Rat
Trad climber
Michigan
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2018 - 01:44pm PT
|
Jeff
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2018 - 07:38am PT
|
Gunkie !!
Please !!
How about posting the "O'Keef pages" to "The Most Rare Guide Book Ever?" thread?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2728567&tn=160
I get your hesitation, Most of my belongings including all the old New Jersey stuff were stored on LBI so destroyed in the 2 floods Irene & Sandy.
The House, (is now raised up) is ocean side,
Walking distance from the Acme Grocery store, Beach Haven,!!,
we have shared trails.
My Real Name?
Michael, I was a Licensed realtor in 2 states, I get what you have said.
you couldn't care less, acknowledgment of youthful trespass & debauchery on rock - the insignificance of those small bumps of rock,
yeah, Ive had that same response from Dana Hauser too.
Ive got no guess as to who you are but our paths took the same places by storm It would seem .I called it Linda's Stack, 5-6 lines,
In the water damaged picture, you can just make me out at the top of the 'Stack'/block.
I'll drop the original pages of that crap Nj Falcon Press book.
It Is from the Bell Labs Canoe Club, a report by N A Sloan & John MaColdowny, I'll fix all the spelling . . .
Maybe
|
|
| Messages 1 - 64 of total 64 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!