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Messages 1 - 47 of total 47 in this topic |
karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 24, 2017 - 03:43pm PT
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New Museum Display at the AZ Hiking Shack!
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Since this first post can be forever edited, I will continually update the boards on this first post as the edit additions and corrections are added in the display.
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Now that you have your feet up and are enjoying the Holidays, I need your help. I am switching out the Museum at the AZ Hiking Shack from the Chouinard Display
.to Mixed Nuts, nuts from around the world. Basically 1500 different chocks. Since a few months ago thieves ran off with all of my museum data, I have been putting together this display off of memory.
So you are my super editors on Supertopo. If you see anything in this display that looks incorrect please post a note. I am looking for compliments, corrections and complaints to dial in the history of the Mixed Nuts display. Looking for product year dates, mfg names, product names etc. The display will be installed mid January and will remain for the next two+ years. While the display is up I can continually make changes to it. 17 boards, 2 window shelves, a few side wall pieces, and misc display above.
Click on photos for more focused photo (The photos are perfect but when downloaded to Supertopo they appear slightly out of focus). Hmmmmm.
Marty, Karabin Climbing Museum contact info..... karabin714@gmail.com
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EDITED BOARDS BELOW EDITED UP TO 6/1/2018
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The top two Chouinard/BD boards shown below are in the Mixed Nuts Display.
The other Chouinard/BD boards are in the Chouinard display, but are included in this list for history purposes.
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The Chouinard display is relocating to the Patagonia Archives in Ventura California. Terri and Val are the caretakers of the Archives, and are happily welcoming the Karabin Climbing Museum into their home. I am totally psyched that this display is staying in one piece and will serve as a historic timeline guide for Terri and Val and everybody that visits the Archives. Thanks Patagonia!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 24, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
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Nice Marty...good job! I especially like the pics of Val and Terry. I remember them fondly from my days at Patagonia over twenty years ago. Funny... Im writing this from Patagonia (the place).
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2017 - 04:02pm PT
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Donini - Very cool! Happy Holidays to you and safe Adventures!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 24, 2017 - 04:19pm PT
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Marty! Awesome display! Great job.
I can share one piece of SMC Drilled Hex trivia for your SMC nut display. I have a photo of our climbing gear in the Bugaboos parking lot from late Sept. 1972.
Per red line in that photo, there was a SMC Drilled 4 Hex among the gear.
Closeup from that photo,showing the drilled Hex. Note the perlon color & owner ID tape, just below the Hex.
Here's that SMC Hex today, with the same perlon & tape. I would have bought it before Sept 1972. Maybe as early as 1970 or as late as Aug. 1972. Darn early for a drilled Hex.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Dec 27, 2017 - 08:26am PT
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Great stuff Marty!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2017 - 08:41am PT
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Roots - Thanks! Happy Holidays to you!!!
Fritz - Very cool. So pushing the SMC hex to 1972 or earlier. I visited Stephanes Needle Sports museum site this weekend and found another correction. Forrest plastic Foxhead was made same time aluminum Foxheads were made. So not 1974 but Foxheads first made 1970. Fritz you show two plastic Foxheads in your sept 1972 photo which is secondary proof that they were made pre 1974. Good stuff!
The 1966 MOAC I show may go earlier than 1966 but I am not sure if the first MOAC 1962 had exactly the same shape on its top. It looks like the first MOAC batch had little cutout on the top on the sides. Hmmmm. The MOAC I have may have come from the second batch.
I was not sure if I list the 1964 Troll Wedges as Hexagons. In the 1964 Fisher catalog these hexes are listed as Troll Wedges. Later they are considered Hexagons. For now I list them as Wedges.
So it looks like first nuts manufactured for the public:
1961 Acorn - John Brailsford (one size)
1962 - MOAC (one size)
1964 Troll Wedges (2 hexes, flat ends, Spuds)
Clog
Peck
Dolt
Parba
Colorado Nut
Forrest
Mammut
Eiger
...............1970s...........
SMC
Chouinard
RP
CMI
etc.
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Also : Wild Country claims the ROCK 1979, is the first curved nut produced. SMC Camlock 1974 is curved....but does it count?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 27, 2017 - 09:06am PT
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You definitely found the right place to post about nuts! ;-}
I think I have an old Clog that I didnt see above. More likely is that I just missed it. ;-/
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Dec 27, 2017 - 03:05pm PT
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Yer nuts?
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 27, 2017 - 05:02pm PT
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But! Has there ever been a better ad for Nuts than this one for Clog Cogs?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2017 - 05:54pm PT
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I like the Edelrid rope ads in Mountain magazine where the girl was naked and wrapped up in a rope. Each magazine issue showed her with less and less rope. The final ad showed her covered up with just two rope strands.
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john hansen
climber
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Dec 27, 2017 - 06:08pm PT
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Cool stuff, whats the story on the Coincuer Haffner ,lower left in first photo? Kinda looks like two pulleys , side by side. How did that work?
Cant make out the fine print.
This thing.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 28, 2017 - 09:29am PT
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No blue anodized CMI I-beams? They were available in lengths up to 18"! Also the tiny nuts they made too small for anything but ear rings.
Edit; that's the stuff, nuts! Below!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Dec 28, 2017 - 09:52am PT
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Sorry Marty, your fantastic Christmas gift (#980) is not here yet...;-)
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2017 - 10:00am PT
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Jaybro - Yes I have the full set of CMI Beamchoks which I will show later. What I am showing for now is half of the display. I will share the other half once the boards are completed. The area where this display is going unfortunately has two windows on the wall, which I have to keep see through. So mirror glass was installed and in the window area I installed shelves. The CMI Beamchoks are going on the shelves.
I think I have one of those Jewelry CMI pieces you are talking about. It is in the display just above the CMI Hexachoks info tag. I always look at that tiny hex and wonder if the wire would even hold 150lbs.
My friend and I had a long day bolting a few new routes on Apache Leap, and then hiked the heavy load a mile back to the parking area. We both collapsed sitting on the ground exhausted. Another group of climbers a few minutes later arrived at the parking area in conversation, and one of the climbers said, "I don't know what I will do with those blue chocks." "Maybe I will make wind chimes out of them." I stood up and exclaimed "Excuse me"..... would those chocks happen to be CMI Beamchoks? He said yes and a week later he personally stopped by my house and donated his Beamchoks. Complete full set, mint, and thank you again Ed LaCriox! I searched for years for these chocks and only found two from Arno Ilgner, which are now with Stephane tied with gold webbing. There are great surprises around every corner!
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john hansen
climber
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Dec 28, 2017 - 10:09am PT
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Any comment on my post 3 up the page about the "Coinceur Haffner"?
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Dec 28, 2017 - 12:18pm PT
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I've never seen such a large rack so carefully arranged. No more desperate fumbling with finding the right biner to unclip or gauging the correct size nut.
Nicely done.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2017 - 06:24pm PT
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Roger - Thanks for the props!
John - The Coinceur Haffner is two-channeled cam lobes strung together so they can move separate. A cool idea which will work in offsets as well. The more the cord is pulled downward, the more the cam lobes grab the rock. Stephane sent me this info on the Coinceur Haffner.
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john hansen
climber
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Dec 28, 2017 - 06:45pm PT
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Thanks for the reply. Interesting,,
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Dec 29, 2017 - 12:22am PT
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Thank you very much Marty for posting such a fair reply.
John, here is the very first and unique prototype of the Coinceur Haffner (size 3).
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 29, 2017 - 10:57pm PT
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No Porter nuts?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Dec 30, 2017 - 12:36am PT
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Darwin, these chocks on your photo are the ones which I would love to add to the Nuts Museum... I am very fortunate to have the ones below...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 30, 2017 - 01:19am PT
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Very cool Marty! There used to be a bookcase full of those beams in the basement of Rocky mtneering, in Laramie circa 1980. They weren't exactly selling like hot cakes.... I wonder whatever happened to them
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 30, 2017 - 02:40am PT
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Great, great stuff as always.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2017 - 12:00pm PT
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Darwin - Yes there will be Porter items in the display!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2017 - 06:02pm PT
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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A rare thread where EVERY post and EVERY image is BRILLIANT!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 20, 2018 - 12:48am PT
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well? given the comment above & the bold and glowing pix here, i'm sorry to post this fuzzy gunk, you would think these curved steel? peanuts? or P-nuts? Would be clearly represented.
I think i was told that they came in 3 sizes and date to 1977?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2018 - 07:29am PT
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Ihateplastic - Thanks for the Props!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2018 - 07:33am PT
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My Camp chocks are all over the place in this display. Adding another board to the display.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 23, 2018 - 07:35am PT
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I'll bet that I saw that ad. I was A big fan of Forrest gear. Wore the tie on swami as my main harness with various leg loops and was noticed for it by Frog. ..
I've got a plate just like that one & I remember making my own nut pick from car antenna. I switched to shelf brackets, for the, wider strike zone on one end & re-enforced hooked on the other.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2018 - 07:36am PT
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Does anybody know who manufactured these nuts? Presently being sold on ebay.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2018 - 11:51am PT
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pennylaine
Social climber
Ventura, CA
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Jan 25, 2018 - 04:04pm PT
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Hey Marty - we are super stoked to receive your display in the archives. And hi to Jim Donini!!! It's been a long time. Come visit us!!! It will definitely be a trip down memory lane for you. Hope all's well.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2018 - 03:18pm PT
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I am adding a few (qty 120) nut tools to the Mixed Nuts museum display at the AZ Hiking Shack. Y'all out there in Supertopo land can help me out with the editing.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Bet ya dont have one of these! 😀
After a trip to the Soviet Union* I had a machinist friend, who did prototypes for Boeing, make this as a die cast. Greg Lowe beat me to the market though.
I have a set of OG Abalakovs. 😉
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2018 - 11:18pm PT
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Reilly - No I don't have one of those and it is beautiful. I like the brushed purple color.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2018 - 11:48pm PT
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And a few months later........it is complete! Thats if it can ever be complete, but at least for now I can walk away from this art piece and put my energy into the next adventure! Mixed Nuts Display now showing at the AZ Hiking Shack, Phoenix AZ.
I edited all of the boards up to 6/1/18 and the entire updated display is shown on the first post of this thread. Overall the first post serves as a great history gear guide covering the majority of nuts/chocks that were created all over the world. For ongoing I am still looking for help on filling in the missing mystery gear names, mfg dates, etc.
The Mixed Nuts Display totally rocks!
Big THANKS to everybody who donated to the Karabin Climbing Museum.
The display is great to see on the internet, but seeing it in person delivers a more WOW feeling!
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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May 31, 2018 - 09:14am PT
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Looks great Marty!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2018 - 09:39am PT
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Roots - Thanks for the props!
Have you been working on your photo project of your collection?
I am looking forward to seeing your climbing treasures.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2018 - 06:47am PT
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Marty,
Do you have any tiny steel nuts made by John Ewbank, in the late 60's, in Sydney, Australia? They were stamped with his initials and used small stainless steel wire. I sent a set to Stephanie, in Corsica, a few years ago.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Have you been working on your photo project of your collection?
I am looking forward to seeing your climbing treasures.
Ah yes...I prematurely posted that thread. Unfortunately/fortunately I found (2) small tubs of unprocessed (unclean and uncatalogued) items in my garage AND I went on a buying spree so I am trying to get all that sorted before the picture project begins.
On on more positive (progress) note; I should soon be loaning some "homemade gear" and Craig Fry's rack for a display they are assembling at the Bend Rock Gym.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2018 - 10:26am PT
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steveA - Ewbank nuts no I dont have any. I believe Stephane in Corsica is heavily seeking those!
xCon - AZ Hiking Shack has the Mixed Nuts Display,
Phoenix Rock Gym is bolting stuff, large cams, vintage items, 6000+ schwag items.
Patagonia Corporate has the Chouinard Climbing Equipment
Focus Climbing Center I am creating shoe displays for.
.and who knows what is next
If God sends me the gear, the display will be created!
Roots - With climbing gear, there is always something more to get excited with!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2018 - 03:41pm PT
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xCon - Totally awesome. Love to have the shoes! A few years back I made a 5.10 shoe display which is at the rock gym. I have a few many shoe samples donated by Chuck Blackwell, and a few many stickers so I combined them and created this display.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 13, 2018 - 06:35pm PT
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Awesome displays & awesome work Marty!
I marvel at your energy!
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