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Hoser
climber
Vancouver,Rome
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Imagine if the OP did something worthwhile with that time and energy...like replaced a bad bolt... and didnt spray about it on multiple forums. Its amazing what makes people get up and do something, very few like Clint - no need for boasting, just does whats right.
Something to look up to for sure.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Damn, every once in awhile the Gnome hits it out of the park, well said sir.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Actually OP doing something worthwhile with that time and energy for climbing community- : he is "having amazing deals on clothing for Singles&Swingers evenings in Planet Granite". Probably he thinks that his amazing bolt's chopping poetry will boost his sales:
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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WORSE THAN THAT HE HAS NOT APOLOGIZED.
THIS WAS ALL A SET UP.
This putz, wrote 4 posts to set the story rolling. then came back to crow about this.
By the way;
It was you, DMT, that changed my mind,about bolts littering up the place(El Cap)
. . . as to the waste of everything that is important . . . to remove protection.
I am not into bolting, i have projects that need them. As top-ropes, I do not consider them climbed.( I try to use No chalk or aid but, I do not try risky leads anymore. My Rack Is Old, from the last century.
It is a new generation, it is theirs to do with as they see fit.
Removing gear is not this generations gig.
That two of the best intention-ed (& historic, sorry ya dinosaurs) stewards of climbing were in on the fix, and have said all that has been said, Makes Horni. . . look like the . . .
lets just say It takes one to know one!
knowhaImeen
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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from FB "Of course I clipped the bolt on the way up before chopping it. It's scary up there. That's the point of the story. Sheeesh. And of course Clint isn't a putz. He's a great guy...outstanding reputation and contributes wonderfully and graciously to the climbing community. I have a great deal of respect for him I used the word putz for two reasons. First, it was the initial gut reaction I had upon spying the extraneous stainless steel admission of failure, so I continue to use the word, right or wrong. Second, I was hard pressed to find a word that rhymed with 'futz.' I'm sadly dismayed that you put more weight in the slight of calling someone a putz for doing something unethical than someone doing something unethical. Of course if you're familiar with the story, Clint says that since there was likely a fixed piton there when Jimmy Carter was president that it's okay to drill a hole in the rock now. I vehemently disagree. When it comes to bolting, less is more."
I don't know personally much about the route. But I have seen Clint's countless fantastic posts here about stewardship of routes. And seeing this logic which claims an initial impression is more important than the facts, and ignores the feedback from the previous thread, makes me side even more that this bolt is a good idea.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Clip then chop?
OMG - I knew it was too good to be true that someone would rise above Superloser and go git 'er done - what a fuk'n joke.
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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I think Clint has a bit to much merit to be called a weak minded putz. He openly admitted what he did and why and was open to an opposing view point. Plus your poem sucks. I will keep it mellow and just say, Dude, get a grip, ya weak minded putz!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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This whole brouhaha is just that...laughable.
Tempest/teapot silliness.
And no one's mentioned popcorn in two threads.
It's all in pretty poetaste, IMO.
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WBraun
climber
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since there was likely a fixed piton there when Jimmy Carter was president that it's okay to drill a hole in the rock now.
I vehemently disagree. When it comes to bolting, less is more."
Sometimes ..... according to time and circumstance, a bolt will go in.
So ... not all circumstances are the same according to time ......
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Matt's
climber
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is this all a troll?
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Clint is cool as a cucumber in his post on this thread.
The OP disagreed and did something about it, fair. As to the what he had to say and how he said it, lame.
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WBraun
climber
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You know this place is fuked up when good people like Clint start getting trashed .......
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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You know this place is fuked up when good people like Clint start getting trashed .......
To be fair, while you have a point, the filter hasn’t proved to be very good.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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I effing hate to have to come on this deteriorating load but.....
I've been there with Clint-side by side-keeping the history and the safety alive. And Clint has rolled with (as Werner points out) and helped shape the modern take on preservation. Most-and they are few- replacers have come to the conclusion that pitons are, and were, temporary. This has been hashed out between the replacers and FA parties in other cases and what came of it was replacing with bolts was a better option then replacing a pin (for reasons one can look up on other threads). Now, when doing an FA on lead, most that I know of are opting to place a bolt intstead of a pin for many reasons having to do with less long term damage to rock, and ensuring future protection. Clint is such a reasonable and well thought out character and always, ALWAYS! checks in.....
As to this guys actions, he's a one off. I don't believe his ethical arguments stand in the majority and it's a blip on Clint's radar. There's alway going to be one and I'm sure Clint is keeping on......As for the climb, bolts have been added per FA wishes and can be taken away. Checking in with the FA ultimately puts it to rest.
P.S. Jim Brennan....you should check your history. RR put up "The Gray Ghost" in TM. A route TM Herbert said "was not like him". But to get in to an ethical discussion has caused a digression of the real topic which is preservation of routes, regardless of style.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Maybe the OP, since he's so badazz should go follow woot boy around.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Clips the bolt 'cause he's too scared to be there without it - claims ethical high ground of boldness and tradition and chops it - calls the guy who managed to get up there without said bolt a putz - sprays it all over social media.
Holy $hit, Jim has got to be Supertopo's Biggest Wanker Ever.
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ryankelly
climber
Bhumi
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name calling, chest thumping, inconsistent logic:
yep, we climbers are no different from the politicians we love to hate
The spirit of the OP doesn't resonate with me. Hopefully the hole was patched.
Give Clint back his hanger and talk to him face to face. This whole episode is so lame
If anyone reading this thread is interested in actually doing good for climbing in Yosemite please consider volunteering for climbing trail work next year or contributing to the ASCA
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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Check in wth the FA party if possible. Maybe they care......
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Clint and Jim need to talk over beers before someone's rope gets soiled
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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He chopped a bolt that he clipped on the way up?? Is this a joke? I mostly have no dog in the bolt wars but that would be the lamest move. Ever!
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