Is there a demand for pitons anymore?

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Messages 1 - 29 of total 29 in this topic

Gunkie

Trad climber

Valles Marineris

Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 17, 2017 - 11:07am PT

I'd imagine Beaks and 'heads and possibly some LAs and KBs. But aside from those, anyone buying or even using baby angles, 5/8", 3/4" angles or bigger?

thebravecowboy

climber

The Good Places

Nov 17, 2017 - 11:09am PT

yes. some people nail shale.

a fat angle off the muck was key for the "Stinky Fingy" fin

now that a little dirtwork has been put in, some intrepid mudshark may now go free this oh-so aesthetic pile of faulted Cretaceous basin-fill.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 17, 2017 - 11:12am PT

Yep, there is a need for pitons on alpine first ascents. Good for icy cracks and rap retreats/descents. I take baby angles, kb’s and up to 1 inch angles.

I hope that talking about alpine climbing isn’t viewed as OT on this forum.

Moof

Big Wall climber

Orygun

Nov 17, 2017 - 11:13am PT

Sawed off's are still in order for assorted pin scars.

But overall the need is scant. Many are bought as insurance for missing fixed gear on trade routes in El Cap and such, but few will ever get placed.

Of my few dozen pins (not counting beaks) only about 3 have ever been hammered in, a couple more hand placed. But I don't regret bringing them thus far.

By example, there is a vertical pocket above the Nipple in Zodiac that takes a hand placed lost arrow very nicely (its like a vertical hole in a rounded shelf). I can imagine anything else being good there short of a giant 4+" hook.

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Nov 17, 2017 - 11:42am PT

I hope that talking about alpine climbing isn’t viewed as OT on this forum.

Discussion of alpine climbing is only allowed on Supertopo if the climb is:

a) in California

b) on flawless granite

c) easily protected

d) done in perfect weather, and

e) requires an approach no longer than 15 minutes, and with no bush.

sharperblue

Mountain climber

San Francisco, California

Nov 17, 2017 - 11:58am PT

^^ heh, indeed..

yes, very much so; just try climbing in the Canadian Rockies or Slovenian Alps without them...KBs, ball nuts and brassies are the bulk of your rack

in my (limited) experience, it's blades and angles that still have use; LAs have almost entirely been replaced by microcams

Fossil climber

Trad climber

Atlin, B. C.

Nov 17, 2017 - 12:02pm PT

Damn. Still got all these Lost Arrows and bongs. Guess they are as obsolete as I am!

thebravecowboy

climber

The Good Places

Nov 17, 2017 - 12:04pm PT

I'm sure yours would fetch a bit more than market value, ha!

hamie

Social climber

Thekoots

Nov 17, 2017 - 12:27pm PT

There is a big difference between 'alpine rock' and 'mountaineering'. Very big.

Pitons and siege tactics (fixed ropes) are still used in some ice climbing areas. Just like the bad old days. :) :)

sharperblue

Mountain climber

San Francisco, California

Nov 17, 2017 - 12:50pm PT

Is there? There are a thousand shades of grey on routes in the mountains; this is from September this year in the Opal Range in Alberta: five pitches of ice followed by twelve more on rock- we took ten blades and placed every single one. It's not the style it's the type of rock that tells you what the right gear is. I think we placed all of two cams..always listen to the local knowledge..if we'd gone up there with a sierra rack it would have practically been soloing the dang thing

Truly spectacular range btw, especially if you enjoy being hit with rocks

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 17, 2017 - 12:58pm PT

Knifeblades are a godsend in many alpine venues....don’t leave home without them.

With the exception of a bit in the Pacific NW. if you live in the Lower 48 and want to alpine climb you have to euther cross an International border or buy a plane ticket or usually both.

sharperblue

Mountain climber

San Francisco, California

Nov 17, 2017 - 01:23pm PT

^^the irksome thing is, from San Francisco, one can fly into Calgary, rent a car and be at the trailhead in considerably less time than driving to Bishop..when are we going to build that tunnel through the range, anyway..

Yury

Mountain climber

T.O.

Nov 17, 2017 - 01:52pm PT

Does it mean that you need to carry a hammer in this case?
How heavy is your hammer?

Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber

Old and Broken Down in Appalachia

Nov 17, 2017 - 02:16pm PT

Pins and choss
Marriage made in heaven

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 17, 2017 - 02:20pm PT

Yury....for alpine climbing I have the hammer head option on one of my ice tools.

TLP

climber

Nov 17, 2017 - 03:20pm PT

+10 for KBs in truly alpine settings. In my very limited Can. Rockies experience, some mtns. had expanses of rock where hammering into any crack larger than knifeblade would just lever off a giant block. The KB cracks were bomber (comparatively). A few nuts held the weight of a biner, but cams, forget it. Not ever falling was a preferred alternative.

thebravecowboy

climber

The Good Places

Nov 17, 2017 - 05:12pm PT

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Nov 17, 2017 - 05:28pm PT

Leeper stacks rule!!!!!

madbolter1

Big Wall climber

Denver, CO

Nov 17, 2017 - 05:37pm PT

Fisher Towers. Nuff said.

thebravecowboy

climber

The Good Places

Nov 17, 2017 - 09:51pm PT

Lambone

Big Wall climber

Ashland, Or

Nov 17, 2017 - 10:22pm PT

I’ve found the topos in Supertopo and Erik’s new Bigwall book to be heavy on arrows and angled for the A3 trade routes.

There’s just not much need for them in Yosemite when you have totems and beaks.

Bad Climber

Trad climber

The Lawless Border Regions

Nov 18, 2017 - 03:22pm PT

New pins are expensive! I think I paid something like $20 for the last LA I bought at East Side Sports. Crazy.

BAd

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 18, 2017 - 03:33pm PT

New pitons are expensive. When I get ready to go on an alpine climb I can usually find someone who has some sitting around gathering dust. They don’t have the same eBay cache of old ice axes that are only fit to put above the fireplace.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Nov 18, 2017 - 09:40pm PT

Hey Jim,
I bought a box full of Stubai alloy blades in order to get a few collectables a while ago. I haven't driven any of them but I would be happy to send a bunch your way if you would like to see if they will work for rap anchors etc.

Lorenzo

Trad climber

Portland Oregon

Nov 18, 2017 - 09:47pm PT

I'd imagine Beaks and 'heads and possibly some LAs and KBs. But aside from those, anyone buying or even using baby angles, 5/8", 3/4" angles or bigger?

I've got a LA as the hasp on my tool chest. Does that count?

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Nov 18, 2017 - 10:04pm PT

I've got a LA as the hasp on my tool chest. Does that count?

Pretty sure I have a few LAs and blades and angles in my old aid gear box, but I'd have to paw through the layer of Warthogs and scrap-metal crampons, and rotting leashes to find them.