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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2017 - 08:57am PT
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Super impressive. I thought 2:23 would stand for a much longer time.
So they knocked off 5 minutes in yesterday's run. 6+ more and they'll get it.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Oct 19, 2017 - 09:04am PT
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I don't think the record is going down that easy. 6 minutes is allot to shave when Hans has refined it to such a art.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Oct 19, 2017 - 09:11am PT
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Don't forget that for Hans and Alex's run, Alex actually got his rope caught for a bit of time. I'm sure those two could shave time off their own time if both cared to.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Oct 19, 2017 - 09:40am PT
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Like we give a sh**t?
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 19, 2017 - 09:43am PT
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Please don't die for this frivolous sh!t.
The poor woman (Quinn) from a few days ago is now in a wheelchair because of this ......
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 19, 2017 - 09:57am PT
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I do give a sh#t. Jim is one of the nicest humans I have met and I am very excited for them doing it. As long as they don't get hurt in the process, they already got the 2nd fastest time, passing that of Sean Leary/Dean Potter. That's impressive as he'll and both of them are in their early 20s!!
With their skills I am sure they are safer than most people epicing on Cathedral peak every week.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 19, 2017 - 10:05am PT
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There’s no free lunch - cutting corners means just that.
Besides, I thought it was about the journey, not the destination?
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Oct 19, 2017 - 10:15am PT
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With their skills I am sure they are safer than most people epicing on Cathedral peak every week.
Dude that's funny man.....and probably right. Gobright solos the Rostrum like its 5.4 and Jim is about as hard and stoked as they come. Those two are crushing it and having fun. Nothing in life is worth getting terribly injured or killed, but the stoke is strong with these two!
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Oct 19, 2017 - 11:18am PT
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The real question is how long after the record will Brad get the call?
“So, can I jug monkey for you so I can have my name in lights again?”
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2017 - 11:19am PT
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Someone is trying to do something that requires great talent, perseverance, skill, and courage. They are testing themselves against a mark set by some of the best climbers in the world. Everyone has their own goals and skills; I would think it would feel better to appreciate that, even if it's not what you are into, rather than disparage it.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Oct 19, 2017 - 11:56am PT
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wow, that's amazing they are so close. i thought this record would stand for awhile. it definitely is not in the bag though. both climbers still need to remain healthy, uninjured, and psyched, and then get a good clean run at it(i.e. no rope snafus, no nasal congestion, etc). a lot of factors need to line up in their favor to make the record possible. i wish them luck and hope to be in the meadow watching if it does go down. ss
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 19, 2017 - 12:56pm PT
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Records are made to be broken...
Keep us posted.
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Rexi
climber
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Oct 19, 2017 - 01:49pm PT
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Crazy stuff and talent. They passed me and my brother while we were waking up on Dolt on one of their attempts.
Very impressive to watch and horrifying at the same time, a fall for one of them would not only be dangerous for them but also other parties up there with their ropes crossing anchors, people, others pro, rocks on ledges and so forth and almost a ropelength without any protection..
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Oct 19, 2017 - 01:56pm PT
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It seems like a 5.11 soloing mindset is required for the sub 3 hour ascents.
Not only a soloing mindset but a rushed mindset.
Didn't the Hubers quit going for a record after a long fall that could have been really nasty?
It is easy to say "They are safer than the bumblies out at so and so cliff" but remember Beth Rodden fell on a 5.9 and suffered head trauma as a result so falls can happen to anyone.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Oct 19, 2017 - 07:10pm PT
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That's impressive as he'll and both of them are in their early 20s!!
With their skills I am sure they are safer than most people epicing on Cathedral peak every week.
Not necessarily true.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Oct 19, 2017 - 07:21pm PT
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That picture of Westbay , Long , and Bridwell posing in front of the Captain is still etched upon my feeble mind...
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Oct 19, 2017 - 07:28pm PT
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I'm stoked for them and hope they get it!
It does appear, with the way the Nose record is going, that confidence soloing at the higher grades is necessary for the record. I do wonder if Brad and Honnold could put up a sub-2hr run if they teamed up.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Oct 19, 2017 - 08:45pm PT
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Jim.. I got your point...I was still impressed by the 75 first NIAD ascent... Long and friends paved the way for future faster ascents... The whole speed climbing thing has turned the outdoors into a 1/4 mile track workout where staring at a watch has become more important than taking in the surrounding beauty of nature... When will the slowest NIAD ascent become trendy...?
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Oct 19, 2017 - 08:51pm PT
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If it makes them happy and keeps the sponsorship $$ flowing, good for them. At this point, it's all seeming a bit overwrought. I've never personally thought of climbing as pure competition like this, so I don't have much interest. It's impressive, of course. Each generation must make its mark, howl at the moon, take risks. Don't splatter, boys. Quinn is now paying the price for a similar quest.
BAd
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Oct 19, 2017 - 09:09pm PT
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Excellent posts BAd and Jim.
Such a conundrum regarding climbing speed competition . . . not your Pierre Gaspard era anymore.
Climbers have been risking it all for ever . . . it is part of the game.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Oct 19, 2017 - 09:57pm PT
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...but as you know when someone gets something very dialed in and wired it’s easy to run out, no big[gie]
// WBraun
I stumbled on the above quote from a thread linked from an MP page. Thought the quote might fit here...
I don't think it's fair to impose judgement upon other people's motive for challenging themselves. I give everyone the benefit of the doubt that they exercise the best judgement doing what they are doing in the moment for the goal that they are trying to achieve. When they do, I will not call them reckless even if what they are doing is worlds beyond me. I wish them the best.
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Friend
climber
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Oct 19, 2017 - 10:08pm PT
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Brad is a genuinely nice guy, humble and always has a smile and way more stoked to hear what people are up to, climbing-wise, than talk about his own projects. Good luck homie. Keep it up, stay safe, go big.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 19, 2017 - 10:13pm PT
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I like those guys. Get some! If you enjoy what you're doing when climbing then right on.
Some people don't like hiking or nature but like climbing. No biggie, have fun! (PS I'm pretty sure these guys like it all)
Sometimes I want to see how far I can hike in a day, sometimes I like going 10 miles on a 4 day trip. It's not like either is objectively better or more pure or whatever.
Like we give a sh**t? Hahahaha? What? Why are you reading a climbing forum when you don't care what people are climbing?
Anyway, good luck, stay safe, and you're killing it even if you don't get a record!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 19, 2017 - 10:18pm PT
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Best of luck lads. BE SAFE.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 20, 2017 - 01:20am PT
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It is easy to say "They are safer than the bumblies out at so and so cliff" but remember Beth Rodden fell on a 5.9 and suffered head trauma as a result so falls can happen to anyone.
Yes. It means when you go climbing, YOU COULD DIE. SO...dont go climbing. Simply post on climbing forums about not giving a sh#t about something, after giving enough sh#t to click on the thread and make a post.
You can die many ways, some simply end it themselves, some choose to drive drunk, live an unhealthy lifestyle or loose the genetics game. No one is safe. This discussion is the same one that happened with climbers that do challenging things. Some will appreciate it, some will say they are way too unsafe, some will say they are not doing it for the right reasons...
I just want to see Jim rage in REEL ROCK! He is one of a kind. If you met him you know. :) it is pretty damn impressive to go for such a giant challenge most would consider impossible to match by a couple that was not involved in the Nose games till last year.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Oct 20, 2017 - 05:58am PT
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I'm pretty sure my partner and I had one or two single pitches on the Nose that took that much time.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2017 - 07:27am PT
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The most interesting thing to me, which is perhaps not apparent at first glance, is how important strategy is to a fast time. It's not about rushing it's about figuring out new ways to do things at many places on the route. Every piece of gear on the rack, every placement, every gear exchange and lead swap, and when to simul-climb vs short fix is important. It's the same for moving quickly and efficiently on any climb but it's a high art at this level.
Of course they need to be super fit and strong climbers and being efficient often means running it out a huge amount, so they have to have that soloing mentality as mentioned and consequences of a fall are probably going to be way more serious than many other types of climbing.
And the trust level is huge. When free soloing you typically are only risking your own life. When simul-climbing a fall by the second could kill the leader. That takes some serious balls on both ends of the rope.
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| Messages 1 - 28 of total 28 in this topic |
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