How to get lost in Yosemite (TR)

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 20 of total 40 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 5, 2017 - 03:35pm PT
I promised my daughter, Martyna (aka Little Moosie) to climb with me the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock two years ago. Because of our conflicting schedules and my health problems, we kept postponing the climb. Finally, on September 27th 2017, while drinking beer on the pizza deck, we hatched a plan. We will pack the gear today, get up early tomorrow and go. Martyna says that since I've climbed the route before, I will be responsible for the logistics. Ha! I think Little Moosie had too much beer when she put me in charge. My ability to get lost is legendary. My mind tend to wander, I lose sense of time, and when I come back to reality, I often have no Idea where I am. One time, I managed to get lost in an elevator! Anyway, I figured, leave camp at 8AM, start climbing at 9AM, 6+ hours climbing and 1.5h rappelling; we should be back at the base around 5PM. We'll have time for shower and pizza. Great!

The next day we managed to leave camp at 8:30AM. Just a bit behind the schedule. No big deal.
We park close to the trailhead, and off we go. Martyna finds the trail, and I take the lead because I "know" where to cut right to the watershed. After 30min of hiking a steep but nice trail, I start looking for the trail leading to the watershed. "I don't see the trail, Martyna, let's keep going". After 15 more minutes, still no trail to the right. "Martyna, I think we are too high". She says we are on the trail to the Higher Cathedral Spire. (She climbed it a year ago). "OK, let's go right and then down". Five minutes of bush whacking gets us to the watershed. And the fun begins! Huge boulders, impassible boulders, loose boulders. But at least I know we need to go down and to the left. We meet a group of climbers going up to the Higher Cathedral Spire. Now, I am the wise one, "guys, there is a better trail to your left". Five minutes later, we meet another couple going up. We point them to the right trail too. Finally, after navigating some really sketchy terrain, I recognize where we are. Five minutes later, we are at the base. It's 10:30AM already. No problem, we should be back to the car by 7PM. At least we are alone on the climb!

At the base.
At the base.
Credit: moosedrool

Martyna says she haven't led anything for a few months, so it might take her some time before she is at a 100%. Ha, I plot a devious plan. "OK, Martyna, the first pitch is 5.6, so go first and warm up. We'll swap leads". Since she haven't looked at the topo, she doesn't know that the fifth pitch is a 5.10 face climb. If we swap leads, she would lead it! (She is a much better face climber than I am, and 5.10 face can be scary).

The first two pitches are uneventful. Martyna takes the third pitch. "Half rope!" "OK!" The pitch supposed to be 100', but she is still climbing. "10 feet!" I yell. Finally, I hear, "off belay"! Hmm, where is she? Only a few feet of rope left...

I get to the belay. "Martyna, you have connected pitches three and four. I was supposed to lead pitch four, and you were supposed to lead pitch five!" I confess my devious plan of putting her on the 5.10 pitch. She is laughing, "not any more, your lead!".

What a great climb!  But, where is your helmet?
What a great climb! But, where is your helmet?
Credit: moosedrool

Top of pitch 4.  "I outsmarted you, dad.  You lead!
Top of pitch 4. "I outsmarted you, dad. You lead!
Credit: moosedrool

We look at the remnants of the rock fall.

Damn!
Damn!
Credit: moosedrool

OK, then, my lead. I take the "Fifty Crowded Variation", 5.10a, instead of the regular 5.10c route. I climb the face with good bolt protection and get to the crux. "Damn, that's a pretty high reach" I am thinking. "Thank gods I got this pitch, Martyna is too short to reach it. It's probably .10d move with an uncertain next move. That would be quite stressful to her" I get to the bolted belay with a sight of relieve, it is a good pitch, though.

Martyna joins me, and we look at the topo. We are uncertain where to go. "Are we at the optional belay?" The features don't match... Well, we need to get moving. Martyna takes the lead, navigates the awkward undercling/jam, goes around to the left, and keeps going to the unknown. Finally, "off belay!".

I climb to Martyna and see she is a bit nervous.

I give up, we are lost.
I give up, we are lost.
Credit: moosedrool

It looks like the only way up is to lower down first, about 30', pendulum to the chimney, and then go up. I am not sure if we are back on the regular route. I see a chimney on the topo, but I also see to my left a flaring, scary looking chimney, then an off width, then a roof. I really don't want to clim that. Also, without a second rope, the follower would have a huge problem to get to the chimney. Bailing is out of the question too. Nowhere to rappel. We are weighing our options. Climb down to the last belay, or find an alternative route? Since we still don't know where we went off the route, I decide to look for an alternative route. I traverse to the right over the arret. A 100' to the right I see a crack system in the left facing corner. "That must be it!" I'm thinking. The only thing is, I need to get there. The travers to the corner is steep, but I see some features, no protection, though. Well, I just can't fall, that's all. The travers turned out to be 5.7 mostly, with a few moves 5.8+. I get to the corner and see chalk marks. Yes! I go up and and set up a belay using a new looking piton backed with two cams. I see two old pitons above me. I am on top of pitch 7! "Martyna, I found the route!" She comes over and we are happy again.

Little Moosie is happy again.
Little Moosie is happy again.
Credit: moosedrool

Little Moosie on pitch 10.
Little Moosie on pitch 10.
Credit: moosedrool

We climb the next three fun pitches, and it's after 5PM already.

We decide to skip the last pitch, and rappel. I rappel looking for the second anchor.

Where are those next rappel chains?
Where are those next rappel chains?
Credit: moosedrool

I am 20m down, and no anchors in sight. Lost for the third time today. Awesome! I stand on a ledge and place a cam. "Off rappel!" "Martyna, you need to find the rappel anchors, I got lost". "What?!" "They must be to the left. After you get to the anchors, I will "Batman" to you". She finds the anchors, I "Batman" up, and proceed with the rest (11?) rappels. When we get to the bottom, it's dark already. Martyna gives me her head lamp to get to the base. We pack and walk down.

The end? No! I got lost for the forth time that day, on the descent. More bush whacking! No time for shower or pizza. We go back to camp. Martyna warms up a sup, I eat cold spare ribs with beer.

Almost 12 hours camp to camp. Almost an adventure! Happy ending.

Moose
L

climber
Tiptoeing through the chilly waters of life
Oct 5, 2017 - 03:42pm PT
Lol! I loved it!
Mike.

climber
Oct 5, 2017 - 03:58pm PT
Family time on the rock – nice! Good climbing, meese. Thanks for the reportage.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Oct 5, 2017 - 04:06pm PT
Finally, on October 27th 2017, while drinking beer on the pizza deck, we hatched a plan.

First TR from the future!!!!! :)

Thanks for sharing, sounds like a full value day and gets me excited to climb with my daughter someday.

Credit: limpingcrab
So far she's a terrible belayer.
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2017 - 04:08pm PT
LOL, Limpingcrab! Fixed it.

Cool picture!

Moose
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Oct 5, 2017 - 04:19pm PT
Looks like a great time
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 5, 2017 - 04:35pm PT
A "great time" would've been something like under 4 hrs up & down.

You gotta get this multipitch thing under control, Moose, or yer gonna die!
Just sayin' while belayin'.
Just sayin' while belayin'.
Credit: mouse from merced
Congratulations and I really wish I could've been up to climbing this stellar trade route with you.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Oct 5, 2017 - 05:22pm PT
Dug it! 5-stars for climbing with daughters
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Oct 5, 2017 - 05:38pm PT
good times Moose. I tried to warn you about those long ropes. hahaha

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
Oct 5, 2017 - 05:38pm PT
A great family outing,
Awesomeness 👍
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Oct 5, 2017 - 06:14pm PT
Good value!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 5, 2017 - 06:20pm PT
hey there say, moose... wonderful father daughter share, :)

wonderful!
yosguns

climber
Oct 5, 2017 - 06:43pm PT
So fun! Glad you and Martyna got lost and unlost in Yosemite! :-D
jonnyrig

climber
Oct 5, 2017 - 07:03pm PT
Nice Moose
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Oct 5, 2017 - 07:24pm PT
Way to go Moose's!
TFPU
Tad
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Oct 5, 2017 - 07:41pm PT
Moose! Heidi & I think you are a hero for:

1. Climbing the route without Donini.
2. Climbing the route on a short fall day.
3. Sharing a classic route with your daughter.
4. Maybe?? Having fun?
5. Making it off the mountain without a cold-bivy.
6. Not dying.

Here's to you my friend!

Moosedrool climbs!
Moosedrool climbs!
Credit: Fritz
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2017 - 08:31pm PT
Thank you all!

Fritz & Heidi, Donini told me I am a big boy now. No diapers anymore!

Moose
drF

Trad climber
usa
Oct 5, 2017 - 08:53pm PT
Moose,

Dig your posts. You get it done. Bravo!
Ney Grant

Trad climber
Pollock Pines
Oct 6, 2017 - 08:02am PT
very nice!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Oct 6, 2017 - 08:22am PT
Wonderful!

The family that gets lost together... saves the cost of a pizza?
Messages 1 - 20 of total 40 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews