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Doug G
Trad climber
J Tree
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 19, 2017 - 09:36am PT
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Five Ten in no longer making Onyxx, HF and MI6. They only have C4 and Dot.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
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Sep 19, 2017 - 10:48am PT
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Fine by me. I. Get the best combo of performance and longevity from 5.5 mm C4
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Sep 19, 2017 - 11:24am PT
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Five Ten is no longer in the USA, the entire company was moved to Europe. . .
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Sep 19, 2017 - 11:35am PT
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"E1" or "Extremely Severe" would be a cool name
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Sep 19, 2017 - 11:48am PT
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End of an era (or two or three) Amazing how it went from a climbers good idea to a 25 million dollar cash buyout. Glad to see Charles got paid for his hard work.
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Sep 19, 2017 - 06:01pm PT
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E1" or "Extremely Severe" would be a cool name
HVS?
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Sep 19, 2017 - 07:47pm PT
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+1 Positive Resoles. Somehow I can't say enough good things about the quality. Every.Time. just ran my new resoles through Alabama Hills. Soyo in two weeks. Buttermilk's and happies this week. Oh and Clark's with Moose. They're getting a workout and the quality holds.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Sep 19, 2017 - 07:50pm PT
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Is the glue still available...?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 20, 2017 - 06:51am PT
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What lucky said! Positive revamped a seven year old pair of heavily loved Gandas for me that I now have dozens of pitches on and three more ascents of Ancient art!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 20, 2017 - 07:02am PT
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Shoes are rarely the problem but the feet in them that position them often are.
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Doug G
Trad climber
J Tree
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2017 - 08:29am PT
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Moose, Sorry if your friend Terry is unhappy with the rubber on the shoes.
There was another post from someone about the stickiness of C4.
Has anyone else experienced this?
I get the rubber from Five Ten and I put it on shoes.
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Barbarian
climber
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Sep 20, 2017 - 09:34am PT
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"E1" or "Extremely Severe" would be a cool name
Hard Very Severe +
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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Sep 20, 2017 - 10:59am PT
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Moose forces me to post this rebuttal to defend Positive Resoles.
I never blamed the shoes for my failure to climb a granite slab pitch at Echo Lake - in spite of four sliding lead falls. So I truly failed to be able to climb the rock. I didn't just "give up." And Moose was a true warrior. In fact, he climbed through my point of failure as if the moves were 5.6 and then finished the pitch in the midst of a sudden cloud burst of hail and rain that quickly turned the slab into a system of water runnels/water falls.
In fact, I love Positive Resoles.
I just had two pairs of shoes repaired by same and I am completely satisfied.
It's true I don't know what rubber was used in my resole jobs as I am NOT a gear head and totally agree with Donini, J. to wit: "It's not the arrow; it's the Indian" that makes the difference.
That being said, it can make a difference when climbing steep granite slabs if the last is more or less stiff, as this can make a difference in the ease with which a climber can drop their heel, flex their foot and get more rubber onto the rock. Who would argue with that point?
So Doug, for the record, what rubber did you use on my resoles of my La Sportiva Mythos and Acopa J.B. shoes? I am happy with the rubber! So I should know what I have.
And yes, Moose proved repeatedly during last week's climbing with him around Lake Tahoe that he is the better climber. That's a good thing. He gets to be the Rope Gun in our climbing team!
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Doug G
Trad climber
J Tree
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2017 - 11:47am PT
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TWP, I will need to get back with you on that. I am not near my records.
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Nuglet
Trad climber
Orange Murica!
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Sep 20, 2017 - 11:51am PT
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Is the glue still available...?
ask Locker, I hear he mainlines it
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Sep 20, 2017 - 03:04pm PT
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TWP makes a good point about stiffness of the last. A few years ago I was climbing a route in Falls canyon near Palm Springs in a pair of newish Five Ten Verdon lace ups. The Verdons have C4 on them but it felt like i was climbing in roller-skates, anytime I tried to drop my heal I skated off. I lowered and switched to a pair of velcro closure Stonlands and had no problem with the climb. The climb was lower angled polished granite. Sometimes you need the right tool for the right job.
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Doug G
Trad climber
J Tree
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2017 - 08:25am PT
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Terry, You requested the C4 thick 5.5mm so thats what I put on them. It's the thickest rubber I have and I thank the thickest rubber made. I always at least triple check the rubber that goes on shoes. Also with it being so thick their is no way to confuse it with anything else.
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skewness
Trad climber
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Sep 21, 2017 - 08:49am PT
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Doug G or locker - what's the closest alternative to Onyxx? Doesn't have to be 5.10
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 21, 2017 - 09:29am PT
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I wonder in a blind rubber test how many people could actualy tell them apart?
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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Sep 21, 2017 - 09:58am PT
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"Spread your legs and trust the rubber."
Lucky Pink's advice to TWP while climbing a steep dihedral using only wide stemming moves. Maybe a double entendre, don't you think?
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