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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jan 21, 2007 - 03:24pm PT
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Greg,
Would love to boulder with you at Woodson sometime or anybody here posting to this thread, just shoot me an email and let me know when you're in town.
Awesome,
You guys have just solved my snapshot photo problem after all these years. I'm thinking who is the guy that I gave my camera to and asked him to take a few shots? Karl Mueller. I would see him from time to time up there. I do remember he was a UCSD student, and yes I believe he told me he was a geology major or going for his masters?
Following shots are of me (circa '78/'79, age 17) and Karl climbing the Woodson, roadside face climb just south of and on the same side of the road as "Don't Rock the Boat." Keith Brueckner and Tim Umstead, my climbing bud, are both watching. Although everyone jumped on it. We called it 5.10+, although Kennedy's guidebook now calls it 5.11+. Now, there is a big Laurel Sumac in front of the climb, although it is still climbable. Typical wear for me at the time: EBs with leather covers, OD green Army pants, and wearing my Forest Harness from climb to climb regardless if we were bouldering or top-roping it, function over fashion.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 21, 2007 - 07:01pm PT
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Nice Candor, Riley! You expressed soemthing I've felt a number of times. Robbins crack fit me like a glass slipper, I was up and down within two minutes of fire™-ing up. But supercrack, and the first, wide hands part of Spectreman, left me uneasy and wondering why they seemed so easy for everybody but me.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 21, 2007 - 07:51pm PT
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Yeah BVB!! Remember the '70's!!
yeah vawto! remember the great mid-week winter session of '77 that came to be known as "Big Wednesday?" one of the top ten days of my climbing life...all of a sudden realized that the sky was the limit!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 21, 2007 - 08:06pm PT
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bad lighting, lousy shots of silk bannana from a couple winters ago...standard woodsun socalflyweight elevensee warm-up. 'specially when those interlopers from roo-bee-doo dared come down from smell-eh to tread our holy ground!
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jan 21, 2007 - 09:16pm PT
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BVB,
Sweeeeet. "Silk Banana" definately named appropriately. Never could get it. I have the build, tall with long legs. I better start doing my situps now in preparation. I'll be ready in about 6 months, at a 100 situps a day (lol). Nice beta shots.
Here is Boulder 13. As we know the start is easy, it is the finish that is hard 10d-ish. Photo of me, by my good friend George Tabler also from Poway. Circa '77/'78, at 16. (I date photos by HS years for that period of time in my life. Only damn way I can remember the dates)
Bandana on, and at least I'm wearing underwear that day. Good thing.
On-edit: BVB, after rereading your post I think you are definately opening up some old wounds from the SM threads, and days of yore. The turf wars continue . . . (lol).
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 21, 2007 - 11:57pm PT
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indeed. someday kp and hensel and mike paul and eppi and i will be sitting around the old folk's home beating one another with our canes....SoCalFlyweights4Lyfe!!1!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 22, 2007 - 12:14am PT
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A two-step knee jam, cool. Looks like tip-toeing until you can move that lower foot up and then - locked. Very nice.
[ Edit: Ooopppss, now that I study it more I see you're actually doing a knee bar traverse - never run across a beast quite like that. Interesting. Have to hand it to whoever came up with that one... ]
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crotch
climber
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Jan 22, 2007 - 01:15am PT
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For anyone who's tempted to come down to SD and hop on these clean splitters on immaculate granite, Chris Hubbard, co-author of the San Diego County Climbing Guide has posted his Woodson topos over on http://www.climbingtoposofsandiego.com. Also some beta here.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jan 22, 2007 - 01:57am PT
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Crotch,
Thanks for the links.
How the heck did I miss this thread?
So-Cal climbing beta (near San Diego)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=262374&msg=290729
Must have been really worried and stressed by the up-coming election in November and I was drinking myself dizzy (thank God the elections went the right way) without checking into SuperTaco. Another worthy thread to link to this one.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2007 - 10:09am PT
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Dang bvb, so you can (obviously) do Silk Banana as well. Sheesh, for my home turf, there certainly are a lot of classics that I could never do.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jan 22, 2007 - 11:24am PT
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Hey, Bob, you frickin' lightweight. The way Rick P. showed me (on said Banana), you weren't allowed to grab the edge of the fruit at the end as shown in your pic, rather you had to--given that you're half a man--go to bunk face edges and huck to the top. Now go back and send it properly.
JL
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jan 22, 2007 - 04:11pm PT
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Uh-oh.
I see the makins' of a virtual brawl or gunfight in the works.
BVB/"Poway Mt. Boys" vs. the "Stone Masters" or is it the Stoned Masters? I don't recall.
Quick, all woman and children take cover.
Real men lock-n-load. Smoke um if you got um.
I think I'll just hunker down and pour myself a whiskey . . .
This is gonna be good . . .
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 22, 2007 - 04:27pm PT
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goddammit largo, you and your roubidoux interlopers! that's the last straw. it's time to settle who masters the dimes, once and for all! spare change at 20 paces!!
p.s. -- healyje -- the problem starts way back in the flake- even tall guys like me have to do three or four pure power undercling moves before you get the kneebar -- which ain't as good as it looks. that sucker is one tough problem. you wanna hit it when you're fresh, 'cause "if one could harness the torque required to send this problem, one could concievably turn lumps of coal into shining gems."
(or words to that effect}
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jan 22, 2007 - 09:13pm PT
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Bob, I grew up on dimes, but at 205 pounds I had nothing on guys like Hennie and Powell and Muir and Ricky and Richard and all the rest. And there's another guy from way back (circa '71), named Ben Borson, who was also insanely good on the small change. Naturally, all of these guys were Roubidoux locals . . .
When I think of Woodson, I think of cracks, possibly the best spread of granite splitters I've ever seen in one place.
JL
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 26, 2007 - 01:06am PT
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'specially when those interlopers from roo-bee-doo dared come down from smell-eh to tread our holy ground!
Why was it that the 'roo-bee-doo interlopers' were always the ones who were going into the other guys hood, and not vice versa? And it wasn't any of that drive-by stuff, we always gave ya plenty of advance notice we were comin' at ya, just so you could get ready. Seems like just recently someone (bvb) was at roo-bee-doo without sufficiently informing interested locals when he was going to be there. Same as it ever was.
goddammit largo, you and your roubidoux interlopers! that's the last straw. it's time to settle who masters the dimes, once and for all! spare change at 20 paces!!
I guess that would need to be settled at roo-bee-doo since dimes and Woodson don't go together in the same sentence.
Naturally, all of these guys were Roubidoux locals . . .
Naturally.
bvb, You just had to go and start something you can't finish. Or win.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Jan 26, 2007 - 01:17am PT
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...goddammit largo, you and your roubidoux interlopers! that's the last straw. it's time to settle who masters the dimes, once and for all! spare change at 20 paces!!
Hey Bob--I want in on this too.
Curt
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goatboy smellz
climber
boulder county
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Jan 26, 2007 - 01:21am PT
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Holy quads, calfs & bahdunkadunk!
GOOD GOD!
Klimmer, stop teasin'
We know you still have tha goodz.
Don't forget the pushups.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Ventura
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Jan 26, 2007 - 01:32am PT
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Mt Woodson is a very fine place. I'm making time for this place because of its local.
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jan 29, 2007 - 02:28pm PT
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I hope to make it up to Woodson this weekend.
Since I am still recovering from a tendon injury sustained back in October, I will only crack climb and wide stuff at that.
What are the best Hands, Fist, and OW cracks at Woodson? I would like to stick to stuff that is longer, since I get my rocks off of leading more so than bouldering, so please include the approx. length of the route. Right now, considering my current condition, I am really looking to do 5.8-5.10 wide crack stuff.
Thanks for the help!
Darshan
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jan 29, 2007 - 03:06pm PT
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I did a little a research at www.mountainproject.com and here's what I found for Hands, Fist, and OW cracks in the 5.8 to 5.10- range (that are 20 feet or longer):
Robbins Boulder:
Robbins crack (10a hands) 35ft ***
Rockwork Orange Boulder:
Rockwork Orange (10a wide-hands) 40ft ***
Tower Two Area:
Tower Two Chimney (5.8 chimney) 45ft
Tower Two Crack (5.7) 35 ft
Sickle Crack Boulder:
Sickle Crack (5.9 offwidth) 20ft ***
Poison Oak Boulder Area:
Poison Oak Crack (5.7 offwidth) 35ft
Big Grunt (5.9 offwidth) 55ft
Elsa's Crack (5.7 tight hands) 20ft
Uncertainty Principle Area:
Eric's Crack (5.9 offwidth) 20ft
The Summit Area:
Crucible (10c offhands, fist, offwidth) 25ft ***
SW Crack of Ogre Boulder (5.10 fist)
The Cave Area:
John's Crack (5.9 hands) 18ft
Bat Flake (5.10c fists, forearms) 22ft ***
Greg's Crack (5.11 offwidth) 17ft
Please add to the list if you can!
Thanks,
Darshan
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