Some Mt Woodson Classics (TR)

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 344 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2007 - 03:18pm PT
Darshan. From I-15 and Poway Rd, go east on Poway Road and follow it to its end (several miles, goes through Poway) to Hwy 67. Go north on Hwy 67 for 3-4 miles and look for Mt Woodson Rd. on your left. Mt Woodson Rd has two outlets to the hwy...park along the hwy near the more northerly.

The secret to Greg's Crack...start low. After that, it's just classic arm-barring.

The climbs I've shown represent a very small sample of the crack gems out there. There is, of course, much more than splitter cracks. Here's an unnamed 5.11+ traverse that I was unable to do on this trip.
darshahlu

Trad climber
Irvine, CA
Jan 2, 2007 - 08:33pm PT
Thank you for the info...
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2007 - 08:41pm PT
Oh, and Darshan, now that I am at home and have the guidebook - you can find nearly all of the Mt Woodson climbs in San Diego County Climbing Guide by Dave Kennedy with Chris Hubbard. Sheesh, I meant to bring this with me to check out Vice Pricipal's Office and PhD (which I didn't find).
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 2, 2007 - 08:44pm PT
damn, have you folks had you heads stuck in the sand or what?? woodson has the most amazing crack bouldering highballs in the western hemisphere. if you like cracks, and like to boulder highballs, woodson is gonna blow yer hair back. werd to ya mutha.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jan 2, 2007 - 08:45pm PT
I went to a different Vice principal's office, today, it's weird sometimes, growing up.

Eeyonkee, Maybe you just needed EB's on that traverse?
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2007 - 09:13pm PT
You notice bvb, I didn't show anything that's rated 5.11c. That's not simply because I'm old and fat, the fact is I never could do Hear My Train a Comin', Driving South, Alcoa, and those other Woodson 11c's.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Jan 3, 2007 - 01:27am PT
What a great place to climb cracks! And what great looking climbs. High enough to be serious, but not so high as to be absolutely deadly if you should blow it. Very pure climbing...Thanks!
poop_tube

Big Wall climber
33 45' N 117 52' W
Jan 3, 2007 - 02:03am PT
darshahlu

hella postin up on the ST sheit
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 3, 2007 - 02:14am PT
BVB, I done had my hairs blowed back sa miny times dey done fully cleared out up top. Izza fully Noith domin' an bristleconin' gangsta!!! But neva have slapped dat stone or caught da breeze in da Wood!
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Jan 3, 2007 - 07:33am PT
Cool stuff Greg! "Greg's" is damned gnarl in my opinion. As is Right Longs iirc... I got whupped on 10a wide last time I was down there...it's probably 9+ by now.

Jlo, with the manzanita/boulder landings (usually on hillside), a lot of woodson tops are fairly "deadly" ....
Richard Sims

Trad climber
LeVagina,Co
Jan 3, 2007 - 12:29pm PT
Greg, after climbing, boating and boarding with my daughters for the past 15 years (isn'T Co. grand)I have been left behind with the girls off to collage.Do you hit the south plate or eleven mile? Richard
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2007 - 01:02pm PT
Richard - Yeah, I climb regularly in the South Platte. Drop me an email if you'd like. I'd take Colorado over So Cal overall for sure, but I do miss Woodson as a bouldering area. I basically don't boulder anymore.

Edit - Kevin F - check your email.

Got some girls of my own.
Kevster

Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
Jan 3, 2007 - 03:36pm PT
Greg....Awesome photos of Woodson, I will have to check it out next time im in SoCal.

We met at the CynPin parking lot a few months back, how did you and Greg Lowe like Edge of Fright?

About Stratosphere....you might want to check with Leonard about those fixed ropes they used for protection points. I can't imagine that they are in the greatest of shape 20 years later.

Any interest in the Free Nose?
darshahlu

Trad climber
Irvine, CA
Jan 3, 2007 - 04:11pm PT
Poop Toob -
Yes, I am posting on SuperTaco if thats what you meant to say. just kidding, gimme some of that jack don't come back slack, ya know what I'm saying slizzaw. awesome jack.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2007 - 05:06pm PT
Kevster, yeah, I remember you. As it turned out, Edge o' Fright was a bit of a struggle for George to lead that day. Come to think of it, Mississippi Half Step was a bit of a struggle for me. Every day is a good one in the S Platte, though. Thanks for the tip on Stratosfear. I've got Leaonard's email address (we were supposed to climb together in the Black last Fall but things did not work out).

As for the Free Nose, it looks great, and I would very much like to do it. I'd like to do 5 or 6 routes in the Black this year.
Kevster

Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
Jan 3, 2007 - 05:44pm PT
Mississippi Half Step is a serious sandbag, especially if you stay with the crack at the crux. My main climbing partner just thrashed his leg in a surfing accident, so I am trying to find some others interested in finishing some FA's with me up there this winter, let me know if you are interested.

Of course that is assuming that some snow melts up there, I climbed on the Sunshine Wall last Tuesday and there were chest high drifts along the base...I bet it is a lot worse now.

pyro

Big Wall climber
Ventura
Jan 14, 2007 - 09:46pm PT
never been there12. the lady and I are going to look at it tomarrow.
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jan 15, 2007 - 02:55am PT
I used to drive out for Christmas to see my parents who would winter at a second house they had in San Diego. I had many lovely visits to Mt. Woodsen and Santee on those trips. On probably my first trip I soloed up and down the Robbins crack, thinking it was the 4th class route to the top and down. Someone later said it was 5.9 or 5.10. That kind of surprised me. It seemed like a perfect hand jam, but it was nice. I might have had a harder time, had I known how high it was rated. On one finger-crack, much more difficult than that one, solid 5.11+, I stood at the bottom feeling the first holds, himming and hawing, making excuses, you know, saying I was over the hill and out of shape... I'd been eating and gaining weight. My mom and dad had come along for the walk, and there were a bunch of young kids standing around, surfer-looking folk, strong, tan, and suddenly my mother said, "Stop standing there and get up that rock." It shocked me. No fellow climber could have intimidated me in such a way, and I went right up the crack like a scared rabbit. There's a funnier, much better wording for this little story in my small book Direct Lines. I should have copied it in here, actually, but oh well. Anyway I have great memories of that beautiful place.

Pat
mpandy

Trad climber
Jackson Hole, WY
Jan 15, 2007 - 10:29am PT
Sweet pics!

Some online beta...
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/san_diego_county/mount_woodson/105791148

Woodson's cracks are great!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jan 15, 2007 - 06:12pm PT
Pat wrote: "On probably my first trip I soloed up and down the Robbins crack, thinking it was the 4th class route to the top and down. Someone later said it was 5.9 or 5.10." That sounds about right, coming from the one who did the FA of Supremacy. I remember years ago dreaming about how cool that would be to try that one myself some day. Downright inspirational.

Woodson was my local haunt for years. The first time I did Robbins--my first 5.10--I was ecstatic (it was around '75 or '76, and I did it with a toprope, thank you very much). I was dating a girl named Robin at the time, and I said to a group of non-climbing friends "I climbed Robbins Crack today...I climbed Robbins Crack!!!" They all appeared kind of shocked and confused as to what exactly that meant.
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