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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2007 - 03:18pm PT
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Darshan. From I-15 and Poway Rd, go east on Poway Road and follow it to its end (several miles, goes through Poway) to Hwy 67. Go north on Hwy 67 for 3-4 miles and look for Mt Woodson Rd. on your left. Mt Woodson Rd has two outlets to the hwy...park along the hwy near the more northerly.
The secret to Greg's Crack...start low. After that, it's just classic arm-barring.
The climbs I've shown represent a very small sample of the crack gems out there. There is, of course, much more than splitter cracks. Here's an unnamed 5.11+ traverse that I was unable to do on this trip.
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Thank you for the info...
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2007 - 08:41pm PT
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Oh, and Darshan, now that I am at home and have the guidebook - you can find nearly all of the Mt Woodson climbs in San Diego County Climbing Guide by Dave Kennedy with Chris Hubbard. Sheesh, I meant to bring this with me to check out Vice Pricipal's Office and PhD (which I didn't find).
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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damn, have you folks had you heads stuck in the sand or what?? woodson has the most amazing crack bouldering highballs in the western hemisphere. if you like cracks, and like to boulder highballs, woodson is gonna blow yer hair back. werd to ya mutha.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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I went to a different Vice principal's office, today, it's weird sometimes, growing up.
Eeyonkee, Maybe you just needed EB's on that traverse?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2007 - 09:13pm PT
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You notice bvb, I didn't show anything that's rated 5.11c. That's not simply because I'm old and fat, the fact is I never could do Hear My Train a Comin', Driving South, Alcoa, and those other Woodson 11c's.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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What a great place to climb cracks! And what great looking climbs. High enough to be serious, but not so high as to be absolutely deadly if you should blow it. Very pure climbing...Thanks!
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poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
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darshahlu
hella postin up on the ST sheit
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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BVB, I done had my hairs blowed back sa miny times dey done fully cleared out up top. Izza fully Noith domin' an bristleconin' gangsta!!! But neva have slapped dat stone or caught da breeze in da Wood!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Cool stuff Greg! "Greg's" is damned gnarl in my opinion. As is Right Longs iirc... I got whupped on 10a wide last time I was down there...it's probably 9+ by now.
Jlo, with the manzanita/boulder landings (usually on hillside), a lot of woodson tops are fairly "deadly" ....
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Richard Sims
Trad climber
LeVagina,Co
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Greg, after climbing, boating and boarding with my daughters for the past 15 years (isn'T Co. grand)I have been left behind with the girls off to collage.Do you hit the south plate or eleven mile? Richard
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2007 - 01:02pm PT
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Richard - Yeah, I climb regularly in the South Platte. Drop me an email if you'd like. I'd take Colorado over So Cal overall for sure, but I do miss Woodson as a bouldering area. I basically don't boulder anymore.
Edit - Kevin F - check your email.
Got some girls of my own.
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Kevster
Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
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Greg....Awesome photos of Woodson, I will have to check it out next time im in SoCal.
We met at the CynPin parking lot a few months back, how did you and Greg Lowe like Edge of Fright?
About Stratosphere....you might want to check with Leonard about those fixed ropes they used for protection points. I can't imagine that they are in the greatest of shape 20 years later.
Any interest in the Free Nose?
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Poop Toob -
Yes, I am posting on SuperTaco if thats what you meant to say. just kidding, gimme some of that jack don't come back slack, ya know what I'm saying slizzaw. awesome jack.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2007 - 05:06pm PT
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Kevster, yeah, I remember you. As it turned out, Edge o' Fright was a bit of a struggle for George to lead that day. Come to think of it, Mississippi Half Step was a bit of a struggle for me. Every day is a good one in the S Platte, though. Thanks for the tip on Stratosfear. I've got Leaonard's email address (we were supposed to climb together in the Black last Fall but things did not work out).
As for the Free Nose, it looks great, and I would very much like to do it. I'd like to do 5 or 6 routes in the Black this year.
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Kevster
Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
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Mississippi Half Step is a serious sandbag, especially if you stay with the crack at the crux. My main climbing partner just thrashed his leg in a surfing accident, so I am trying to find some others interested in finishing some FA's with me up there this winter, let me know if you are interested.
Of course that is assuming that some snow melts up there, I climbed on the Sunshine Wall last Tuesday and there were chest high drifts along the base...I bet it is a lot worse now.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Ventura
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Jan 14, 2007 - 09:46pm PT
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never been there12. the lady and I are going to look at it tomarrow.
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jan 15, 2007 - 02:55am PT
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I used to drive out for Christmas to see my parents who would winter at a second house they had in San Diego. I had many lovely visits to Mt. Woodsen and Santee on those trips. On probably my first trip I soloed up and down the Robbins crack, thinking it was the 4th class route to the top and down. Someone later said it was 5.9 or 5.10. That kind of surprised me. It seemed like a perfect hand jam, but it was nice. I might have had a harder time, had I known how high it was rated. On one finger-crack, much more difficult than that one, solid 5.11+, I stood at the bottom feeling the first holds, himming and hawing, making excuses, you know, saying I was over the hill and out of shape... I'd been eating and gaining weight. My mom and dad had come along for the walk, and there were a bunch of young kids standing around, surfer-looking folk, strong, tan, and suddenly my mother said, "Stop standing there and get up that rock." It shocked me. No fellow climber could have intimidated me in such a way, and I went right up the crack like a scared rabbit. There's a funnier, much better wording for this little story in my small book Direct Lines. I should have copied it in here, actually, but oh well. Anyway I have great memories of that beautiful place.
Pat
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jan 15, 2007 - 06:12pm PT
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Pat wrote: "On probably my first trip I soloed up and down the Robbins crack, thinking it was the 4th class route to the top and down. Someone later said it was 5.9 or 5.10." That sounds about right, coming from the one who did the FA of Supremacy. I remember years ago dreaming about how cool that would be to try that one myself some day. Downright inspirational.
Woodson was my local haunt for years. The first time I did Robbins--my first 5.10--I was ecstatic (it was around '75 or '76, and I did it with a toprope, thank you very much). I was dating a girl named Robin at the time, and I said to a group of non-climbing friends "I climbed Robbins Crack today...I climbed Robbins Crack!!!" They all appeared kind of shocked and confused as to what exactly that meant.
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