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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2007 - 12:59pm PT
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Beauutiful drawing, Ray.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 13, 2007 - 01:06pm PT
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Stuff like the above is of course more convenient to do now w/ modern tools.
Back then I had a single-slide slide projector pointed straight down onto my work table. I could adjust for scale and keep it focused. I'd put paper underneath and "trace" images I needed,
pretty common set up for illustrating.
The advantage of the drawings is - of course - so that the most relevant (key) features can be selectively shown, since photos are rife w/ confusing shadows, etc.
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crotch
climber
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Mar 13, 2007 - 01:41pm PT
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Pretty Deerhorn drawing Ray.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 13, 2007 - 05:11pm PT
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FYI Greg and others, I see Tom Gibson around Boulder now and then.
Maybe it's in this thread and I missed it but, just who exactly were the Poway Mountain Boys - did you go to the same high school together? Can you list them for my edification?
I don't think there were any other climbers down in the Imperial Beach/Chula Vista area except later I met this guy Craig Snortland. He climbed with Ken Turley who lived up in Lyons Valley near Lawson Peak. They did some nice climbs out there - I think Lawson comes up on a google image search.
Craig, Piggot, Carmel and I went up to the Ogre one day. I led it onsight and did a good job protecting it without any real fuss.
Around that time I dubbed Piggot
"the Clint Eastwood of Climbing".
Speaking of google - I have a feeling bvb is going to show up with perfect Google Earth Pro aerials of the Woodsonian and say "get to work froggy".
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2007 - 05:48pm PT
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Ray, I can't believe that you independently came up with the Piggot-Clint Eastwood angle. I've always said that Rick's glare reminded me of Clint's. I was glared at by Rick plenty, or so it would seem. Leroy once said on this forum, something to the effect that "My how Rick could fill the room with his silence".
The Poway Mountain Boys. I've mentioned it in a couple of other threads. We all went to Poway High (except for the honorary members). We actually had an official climbing club at school. There were a few others who came and went, but the core group is/was: Dave Goeddel, Denny Adams, Bruce Adams, Kinley Adams, Rick Piggot, Colin Piggot, Jim Cameron, Greg Cameron, Tom Gibson, George Manson (honorary), Dennis Sullivan (honorary).
Edit: Jeez! I forgot somebody...what was I thinking!...and the Big Duke himself, Dan Heiser(honorary).
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 13, 2007 - 06:06pm PT
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Thanks for reiterating the list for my benefit Greg.
Just sitting there, Rick Piggot exuded a powerful presence, an energy that could easily be misunderstood until you got to know him a little. He'd crack a smile, it was amazing.
I took Piggot on a tour of Mother Grundy peak once, my girlfriend Ann was there too. There's this thing that is EXACTLY like Woodson's Test Tube but at least 120 degrees overhanging. It was near the end of the day. I fit in the thing perfect and ratcheted off the moves. Rick, long framed and pretty darn tall got completely shut down. It was the only time I've ever seen him even slightly ruffled. End of day.
Rick is a great guy. I can't even imaging doing those El Cap routes he did, clearly an excellent climber, I'd say in a sense world class for sure.
Thanks Greg.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 13, 2007 - 08:36pm PT
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yeah, i climbed with piggot a whole lot between 85 and 89. it was a priviledge and a real eye opener -- not matter how wired a woodson master you'd think you were, one day with piggot would set the record straight. the guy is a true jedi master.
ray, remember, after i'd moved from san diego to yosemite, when i was supposed to hook up with you and piggot and you guys were gonna show me some huge new off-width roof somewhere in the east county? and i didn't show, stood you guys up? next time i saw piggot he briefly mentioned that and i felt about three inches tall. heh. he really knew how to psych a guy out.
so where was that roof, anyway??
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 13, 2007 - 09:25pm PT
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You got me bvb.
Roof?
I can't remember.
hmm
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 13, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
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december 1998, christmas break, big, dead-horizontal roof, not woodson, not rainbow, perfect stacking size, 20-footer.
where the hell was that sucker?? you guys had me reeled in...but family sh#t interposed....
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 13, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
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must be a Piggot thing.. I'll keep scanning the data banks, maybe it'll come up.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 13, 2007 - 09:43pm PT
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Hey Bob Van Belle,
Kinda off topic, but you've lived in some cool cat spots, or at least been crag side such wise, like The New, Capitol Reef. How's comes we ain't seen many pics from those escapades?
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Mar 13, 2007 - 09:57pm PT
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Jesus, either be more careful what you ask for--or get more bandwith...
Curt
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 13, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
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hehehe.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 14, 2007 - 11:09am PT
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This kinda pushes the thread to include greater San Diego.
Jeff Almodovar enjoys a December day repeating my Deerhorn Valley classic Full Moon Boogie 5.11a/b. Greg Epperson Image.
I did the FA of this climb with Paul Wheeland around 1977 after being motivated by Woodson; pre-friends, pre-Fires, it involved a protracted effort. I recall being so pumped I couldn't untie. Don Reid loved the thing, thought it was 11b. Sustained textbook 1" jams up a really nice and truly vertical wall.
When I see this picture I remember why I climbed at all. If there is any route that has come to represent my San Diego years and my contribution to the crags, this is it.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 14, 2007 - 12:02pm PT
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yep, full moon boogie is mos def a classic. loved climbing past the loose flake jammed in the slot to get to that splitter on the headwall.
hey ray, what was the name of the 5.11c splitter to a groove, maybe 40' high, on the formation behind full moon boogie? snakefinger, i think? i bouldered that thing on sight (insert sound of vigorous vigorous chest thumping here) and even the usually droll eppi was impressed. man, i've had some of my best crack days ever at deerhorn. in some ways it's like woodson on steroids.
somebody has GOT to get the access to that place opened up again. why was it closed? what happened?
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 14, 2007 - 12:13pm PT
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The backside of FMB is Snakefinger 10d, an impressive boulder problem bvb - I always did it as a TR because of the peculiar funkiness when the angle kicks up high - saw Adrian ask for a rope up there once...that corridor is a neat place - cool, always a light breeze.
I gave up on access to Deerhorn years ago and was lucky to get in there w/ Eric beck to do things like African Queen back in '98.
Private development.
I'm trying to remember the name of the other main Deerhorn developer - the guy who did Fang Arete.
I know nothing of the Specifics re: access.
Re: your Q on that roof bvb, gotta ask Piggot. I don't think I was ever privilege to the whole scoop.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 14, 2007 - 12:22pm PT
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re:
"in some ways it's like woodson on steroids"
I always loved the Pinnacles partly because of the awesome places to hang out among the rocks on that steep slope...with the perfect onshore breezes it was like have air conditioning - people have a hard time understanding climbing in San Diego unless they've been there...it's hard to imagine the quality of the rock and the weather at such a high consistency - that's why I stayed for so long.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Mar 14, 2007 - 01:16pm PT
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You've had couple of lovely short paeans to San Diego climbing lately Ray, reminds me of what I really loved about growing up there and poking about out in the county. When I left in Jan. 79 I really had no idea that I'd never move back, and it feels like that place I remember is gone, replaced by something bigger, faster, and meaner. Do you ever think about moving back to that town?
I've certainly become deeply smitten with the Northwest, rain and all, and wouldn't go back, though truth be told, every February or so the notion of a month in San Diego or Tucson seems like a pretty charming idea.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 14, 2007 - 01:24pm PT
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Dear Doug,
I think you summed it up when you wrote:
"it feels like that place I remember is gone, replaced by something bigger, faster, and meaner."
My brothers live there, it's become a big city, still upbeat maybe even with a better more hip cultural groove, but different.
A great place to be from. Guess I like Boulder 'cause there's a lot of things to do here that suit my years -wanna learn to track ski, cycle again, do some Alpine Touring, more backpacking...so this works.
Climbing saved my life.
I'm really lucky I had so much good stuff in my backyard and so many cool people to be active with.
Cheers.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 14, 2007 - 01:32pm PT
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Raydog - Yeah...uh....the first ascents of "Hear My Train a' Comin' " and "Drivin' South".
Jeepers - hard to remember things from the age of the dinosaurs.
I think I did "Hear my Train" pretty quickly - it's more of a highball than anything super technical. I guess I just felt comfy on that kind of stuff after climbing in the Valley so much. Nobody really wanted to do that kind of thing back then - they thought I was nuts anyway.
"Drinin' South" was really an effort though. I climbed up to the 'lip' move many times and had to do the hideous bail out. I think Shawn Curtis showed it to me one day - said nobody could touch it. Man, I remember finally going for it at the lip when I did it - I was scared sheetless - don't want to fall from there. I think Mike and Mari were there - we used to go down there quite a bit in those days.
I did some other stuff down there too - can't remember what other climbs I put up....
Cheers, JB
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