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J R
climber
bend
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 22, 2017 - 09:47pm PT
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Just curious what the forum though. I have great job offers in Steamboat, Co and Missoula, MT. Having trouble choosing.
How much local rock is around Missoula. Never done any cragging there. I imaging winter will be no problem with skiing and ice.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Jul 22, 2017 - 10:33pm PT
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Steamboat...90 meter jump
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Jul 23, 2017 - 07:18am PT
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Missoula has culture but a very bad pollution problem in the winter. That's why I decided against it.
However, Steamboat is very isolated from any urban centers with cultural activities - a three hour drive just to get to a major interstate in Colorado.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jul 23, 2017 - 07:54am PT
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Thought Bozeman area was pretty darn cool..
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 23, 2017 - 08:28am PT
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Vail - lottsa (sp?) valet jobs.
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feralfae
Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
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Jul 23, 2017 - 08:41am PT
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When I was at University of Montana my office was in Old Main, probably the lowest spot in Missoula other than the river. They had to put in special air handling equipment for me because of the area pollution in winter. But we lived 7miles up Lolo Trail, west of Lolo on the way to Idaho, and the commute was lovely, and no air problems up where we lived above Lolo.
I like Missoula, the people, the university atmosphere and the culture. You would be on the north end of the Bitterroots, and the Selway-Bittterroot Wilderness out your door practically. The valley has fresh organic produce and is also has lots of birding if you are a birder. Downhill skiing just outside Missoula, and several hot springs, both wild and commercial, within easy distance.
It's worth spending a couple of days exploring the area. If your job is in Missoula, you could probably live within 20 miles in many directions and get out of the air problems. Of note is that the winter winds can blast through Hellgate Canyon, and modified para-skiing used to be one of our thrilling winter recreations out that way.
Good luck with your relocation, wherever you land.
feralfae
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J R
climber
bend
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2017 - 08:47am PT
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Thanks guys,
I didn't think about the smoke pollution in Missoula. Definitely something to think about if I end up there. I spend about a month in Yosemite valley every year and the smoke can ruin me. Heading up there tomorrow to check out the town.
Cheers
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 23, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
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Missoula could keep a person busy for a couple of years. I know the area well and have a long tick list of things to do.
I don't know the other place.
If you like freedom, firearms and fireworks, Montana is a your state.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 23, 2017 - 03:18pm PT
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JR! I used to visit Missoula on business several times a year. The chief-source of air pollution in the area was the Smurfit-Stone pulp & container mill, which closed in 2010. Missoula may get a little inversion now during the winter, but it was much, much worse before the mill closed. The worst air now is related to summer forest fire smoke. Here's a link to much more information on Missoula air quality & how much it has improved since the 1980's
https://www.missoulacounty.us/government/health/health-department/home-environment/air-quality/history.
I like Missoula and its interesting blend of hippie, redneck, & university culture. There is good rock climbing on granite in canyons that go up into the Bitterroot Mountains 20 -50 miles to the south down Hwy 93.
I used to work for a company based in Steamboat which is in a great area, but Jan is corrrect about its remote setting. Also, if you are talking similar wages, a dollar goes a lot farther in Missoula than it does it Steamboat.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Jul 23, 2017 - 03:29pm PT
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Missoula is a great town, I'd live there. Hope you fish.
Don't know steamboat.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 23, 2017 - 05:07pm PT
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If you like freedom, firearms and fireworks, Montana is a your state.
And horses, bears, and ticks.
You should choose Montana for the mystery alone.
view from downstream
view from upstream
"We had people came down off the mountain with 30 or 40 ticks on them."
campground host
near:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rocky_Mountain_Laboratories
And Higher Ground Brewing and Bitterroot Brew Works.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jul 23, 2017 - 05:24pm PT
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I lived in Steamboat from '98-'00. Don't move there. It's either just right or just wrong in some weird way. Probably wrong for you, this is not the town you are looking for.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Jul 23, 2017 - 06:48pm PT
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Brandon is right.
A friend of mine from HS bought a home there in 82 for 27k,he remodeled the 1700 sf home in 07 and sold it in 2012 for a half a million.
Lives on a 90 acre ranch near Hayden ,now.
He is trying to reopen Stagecoach now.
Like Missoula though.Reminds me of Ithaca.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Jul 23, 2017 - 07:17pm PT
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The housing scene isn't just Steamboat. The same thing has happened almost everywhere in Colorado. There are 83,000 people moving here every year and the builders never can keep up. I get at least one postcard or letter a week from a realtor begging me to sell my 100 year old house that needs another 100,000 worth of rehab, because my neighborhood is 20 minutes from Boulder and therefore highly desirable.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Jul 23, 2017 - 08:00pm PT
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Horse head arch!!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Jul 23, 2017 - 08:12pm PT
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Missoula is happening. Great concert scene going on too. Plenty of local breweries. You can find climbing.
Arne
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Jul 23, 2017 - 08:42pm PT
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Depending on your political views, Montana might be too right for you, nawmean?
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feralfae
Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
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Jul 23, 2017 - 08:53pm PT
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I think the "Rightness" of most of Montana is tempered a bit by UofM's presence: it is a fairly adequate balance to we "gunnies" and agorists. The town has texture. And it is easy to get away to very lovely places.
I'll be interested to see what you think of the place after your trip.
And, yes, I was there when the pulp/cardboard stinky factory was still open out in Frenchtown. In recent years, the wood smoke seems to be getting a bit more noticeable, though. But it could just be me, getting older and more fussy. :)
feralfae
Edited later because spell check did not like "agorists" and wanted to write "agonists."
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 23, 2017 - 10:20pm PT
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An old girlfriend's parents had a place in Steamboat so spent some time in the summer and winter there. Almost no climbing. A tiny little column of rock about 30' tall near town and a small waterfall (about 30-40' tall) that freezes up in the winter. That's it. Good skiing and mt. biking, though some of the older locals seemed hostile toward bikers. People said road biking up to Rabbit Ears Pass was nice. Had a dude lean out of his truck and scream at us for riding on the shoulder of the road though. A friend of mine lived there about 25 yrs. ago and liked to call it "Steambutt", which was a comment on the women. That may have changed. Didn't strike me as a bad town, but it felt far from everything.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jul 24, 2017 - 06:49am PT
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Skiing or climbing?
Pretty simple based on which is more important to you...
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ryanb
climber
Hamilton, MT
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Jul 24, 2017 - 01:08pm PT
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We ended up in Hamilton (an hour south of Missoula) after exploring around the west a fair bit.
There is a *ton* of climbing and backcountry skiing in the area but stuff is spread out and there are no up to date guidebooks. And lots of the best rock and snow is deep in the selway bitteroot wilderness.
Historically there has been a bit of a no publish ethic though that it changing and more and more spots are popping up on mountain project with at least partial information.
Its a great place if you enjoy studying satellite photos or following up rumors from friends and setting out to see what you find.
I mostly boulder in lost horse canyon these days but its excellent and extensive...it seems like i find new boulders or climb new problems every time i go out. Let me know if you want a tour or some beta.
Edit: one of the things that drew us to the area was that it has a massive amount of access to wilderness mountains without being primarily a tourist/resort driven economy.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 24, 2017 - 03:09pm PT
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One is a University town, one a ski town with all that implies. Missoula also has better climbing.
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J R
climber
bend
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2017 - 07:01pm PT
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I was in twin falls for about a week and it seemed to reset my priorities. Missoula is a good town. Lots to do here and some good people. New climbing gym going in with more than just bouldering for the rainy and cold days.
I've only been around one day and have run into a ton of climbers and alpinists in the area just form walking the river trail wearing my old smith rock Climbingruven shirt form the 80's. Got info on a bunch of unpublished crags too within 30 minutes of town.
Missoula or bust I say. I have a house in Bend and if I don't get a good feeling from the job tomorrow, I'll probably just hang in bend living on potatoes and tuna.
I did see a couple of homeless guys duking it out on the foot bridge though.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 24, 2017 - 08:07pm PT
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JR1 Re your comment:
I was in twin falls for about a week and it seemed to reset my priorities
I agree that a week in Twin Falls Idaho would reset your priorities for a small city to live in.
It gets worse in Idaho for small cities. Pocatello, Caldwell, & Lewiston are far worse to live in.
In fact, the two most beautiful sights in Idaho, are the Sawtooth Mountains,
and Lewiston & its pulp & paper mill, in your rear-view mirror.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 24, 2017 - 08:32pm PT
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Gotta be Missoula!
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John Mac
Trad climber
Breckenridge, CO
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Jul 25, 2017 - 07:50am PT
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We live 2 hours south of Steamboat in Breckenridge, which is another ski town but not nearly as isolated as Steamboat. We go there a couple times a year to catch the big storms since the aspen glade skiing is so good.
I think it would be a nice place to live for a couple of seasons but that's about it. If you want to go backcountry skiing you need a snow mobile to get to the good stuff.
Mountain biking in the pretty good as well and the road biking around Rabbit Ears pass nice as well. The rock climbing I've done there has been pretty limited and the quality not as good as the Front Range.
The biggest thing against steamboat is the location. It is two hours north of Breckenridge, which is on the i70 corridor so to go anywhere takes a lot longer. For example Moab is just over 4 hours from Breck so from Steamboat it would be a good 6 to 6.5 hours. Makes a weekend away tough.
I've driven through Missoula a few times and always thought of it as a nice town. I'd probably give that a shot if the job is what you want...
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jul 25, 2017 - 10:16am PT
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Missoula. No contest. Hands down one of the greatest spots that I've ever visited. It has been a while, but if they still have that redneck vibe along with the college school vibe, then it should still me good.
No way would I live in a ski town, but that is just me. I drove a cat at Mammoth for a while, and it was the last place I wanted to go on my days off, so I ended up not using that lift ticket much.
Bishop used to be the ultimate cool town. Last time through, I noticed about half a million Keep Out-LADWP signs everywhere. Like we didn't know that before.
It was the perfect place to live, though. Missoula is a bigger town, but it is also cool. The winter's aren't too bad, either.
Nothing beats cracking open some quart sized beers while sitting with your buddy in the Lamar Valley in October, with patchy snow on the ground and the elk bugling everywhere, and the wolves howling around dusk. Missoula is close enough to Yellowstone, and the Lamar Valley is one of my favorite spots on Earth. Worth the drive from Missoula anyway, and the winters are mellower.
Osborne Russell, in his book "Diary Of A Trapper" describes the Lamar Valley as the "Beautiful Valley."
Anywhere around there would be good. Winters in Yellowstone are tough, but a winter trip there will blow your mind, so everyone should get off of their asses and go.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
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Jul 25, 2017 - 10:19am PT
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Missoula: tofu butcher to the world. Plus, the mill shutting lets you smell the patchouli now.
Steamboat: really very intermediate skiing. And Billy Kidd.
I recommend Uravan.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Jul 25, 2017 - 10:47am PT
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redneck vibe along with the college school vibe, then it should still me good.
I guess I might call them the good'ol days? With the influx of yuppies/trusties and folks trying to make any $$ they can on real estate and the selling of the lifestyle, things have changed a lot. The diversity theat you mention is on the way out. Up-scaling is the way of the last 15 or so years and it is now being felt more than ever. Folks that have lived here for generations are being squeezed out because they are struggling to afford the new lifestylers town that it has become and it is only getting more expensive to be here. The aggressive nature of the newbies is alarming. I worked downtown all of the 90's and it was great, slow traffic, chats with folks on every block, folks smiled and looked you in the eye. You could tell it was just relaxed. Now, not so much, loud a$$holes, fast traffic and people stepping on others for $$. The last best place is long gone and now the NewAggresivePlace in the West. I am sorry to sound negative but that is how I have seen it change. I maintain my low profile and do talk about what I do and just continue to look for those corners of nothingness and feel lucky to still be able to find them. The disparity in income is hella evident when you look at city politics and how our mayor acts regarding our community. Dang I make it sound like it sucks! Well, when you now the internals and not just the gift wrapping it is mostly how it is.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Jul 25, 2017 - 11:35am PT
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Missoula hands down.
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J R
climber
bend
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
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Thanks guys.
Missoula was the easy choice after visiting for a couple days. Housing is spendy compared to what i expected. Bend was good to me. Off to Montana.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Jul 25, 2017 - 06:15pm PT
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Still waiting for someone to say the skiing is better than northern Colorado,Really.
Or the mountain biking.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 25, 2017 - 06:41pm PT
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wilbeer! Re your question!
Still waiting for someone to say the skiing is better than northern Colorado,Really. Or the mountain biking.
The intermediate skier powder skiing for you, is much better in Steamboat, but alpine skiing starts 15 minutes from Missoula & continues for a few miles, per this link.
https://www.allmissoula.com/ski_resorts/
I suspect mountain biking is about equal.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 25, 2017 - 06:46pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 26, 2017 - 05:09am PT
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Steamboat is closer to Vedauwoo and with all the seasonal workers you can practice your Russian. Other than that it seems sort of bleak, in a picturesque kind of way.. People seem to like Missoula
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jul 26, 2017 - 06:34am PT
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Cool adventure, J.R.! What a sweet option. Post some pics of your new life. Only been through Miz once and found it very attractive. We live in Bishop, though, so hard to imagine a Montana winter.
Congrats.
BAd
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jul 26, 2017 - 06:44am PT
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You might be required to grow dreads if you move to Missoula
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