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Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
riemannzetagambit
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 26, 2017 - 10:04pm PT
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Howdy there ST folk--
Well my Tuolumne permits for the upcoming weekend are all but borked as my intense watching of the Tioga Pass Opening Thread and NPS's own Tioga Rd status page have yielded only disappointment for a timely open. My climbing partner and I are pivoting to something on the east side-- perhaps the Third Pillar of Dana.
We've never been but we do know
1. There's going to be a s*#t ton of snow on the approach.
2. ???
I am guessing the actual climb is free of snow these days 'cause of all that June heat, but anyone know what we might expect on the approach? Will Glacier Creek be fordable? Will the descent gully to the toe of the Pillar be too dangerous?
Appreciate any input, or views from the east side of the Pillar itself. Thanks in advance!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 26, 2017 - 10:32pm PT
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missjr
Trad climber
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Jun 27, 2017 - 09:14am PT
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Our roommate climbed this about a month ago.....it was fine. They rapped in to avoid the snow down climbing. Probably more has melted by now but not entirely.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jun 27, 2017 - 09:43am PT
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Ed, nice photatoes, sir.
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riemannzetagambit
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2017 - 10:45am PT
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Thanks, missjr.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jun 27, 2017 - 11:17am PT
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Interesting, missjr, How does that rap in work? Just right off the top, leaving gear? BTW, I am NOT advocating any kind of bolted rap line--just curious what your friend did in case I want to try something similar.
BAd
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missjr
Trad climber
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Jun 28, 2017 - 08:06am PT
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Bad,
They left anchors in place on their rap down the route. Then they cleaned as they climbed out.
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Old5Ten
Trad climber
Berkeley and Sunny Slopes, CA
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Jun 29, 2017 - 08:22am PT
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i've been up in that area (but not 3rd pillar approach specifically) a few times the last 10 days. there's a ton of snow in the descent gully on the approach (see cropped section of crappy iphone pic taken yesterday). the backside (west) has some patches of snow. i imagine that the non-snow part may be pretty soggy in some places.
that rapping in idea sounds pretty good if you've got a decent rack and know where you're going (ie have done the route before).
if you do the eastern gully descent, an ice axe (and possibly crampons) might be worthwhile.
tioga pass is supposed to open for motor vehicles today...
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riemannzetagambit
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2017 - 05:05pm PT
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Thanks for the beta, Old5Ten.
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DonC
climber
CA
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from last weekend
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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I drove past it yesterday from the East.
Sorry I didn't take a pic.
There's still a lot of snow up there. Consider taking ice axes, and possibly crampons for the east couloir. It will almost certainly be icy when you start the descent.
At least get a good view of it from the east before committing to the approach.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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What's the supreme courts' justice's line?
I know it when I see it!
Porn
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