Discussion Topic |
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 19, 2017 - 01:01pm PT
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Aug 4-6 is a full moon and we will have a impromptu gathering in honor of the new guide book. Climbing, camp fires and drinks hopefully around the back side of Power Dome. Nothing planned but that except maybe a full moon ascent of Divorce Quartz on Power Dome. Dwight Kroll is planning on showing. He may even sign your book for a beer. Hope to meet some new and old peeps.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 19, 2017 - 01:16pm PT
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Sounds like a blast. Good chance I can show up.
But I hate to be a wet blanket regarding camping behind Power Dome.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jun 19, 2017 - 01:40pm PT
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Dave -
Sounds good! Count me in. Perhaps Slick Watts, Kris Solem, Guy Keesee, Rene Ardesche, Gerry Jessuran and few other Fresno/Visalia locals will jump on this. Daniel Jeffcoach.....you in?
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jun 19, 2017 - 02:04pm PT
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Yeehaw! Lemme check El Calendario.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jun 19, 2017 - 02:04pm PT
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It's so hot there in August that climbing is desperate that time of year. One of the problems with the place is that there is almost no shady climbing other than Tiger Wall. If the creek levels go down some maybe I will make it and do some fishing instead.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jun 19, 2017 - 02:49pm PT
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Afternoon ( 4-8pm )@ Voyager or Trapper is quite pleasant and convenient *
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Jun 19, 2017 - 03:25pm PT
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I will try and attend. I climb at courtright a fair amount in the summer. We treat it like spring skiing, climbing by 5:30am drinking before noon. Sometimes with a rally for some afternoon/evening activity.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jun 19, 2017 - 03:47pm PT
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Agree, very early or late. Hence fishing in the middle of the day maybe.
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Jun 19, 2017 - 04:00pm PT
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I'm going to throw my wet blanket into the mix, too. I can give at the least a handful of reasons why it would be a bad idea to camp around the backside of Power Dome.
It's still really pristine back around there. Let's not camp in this beautiful little stream canyon.
Please, reconsider car camping along the road, toward the roads end, at least there are pit toilets within a short walking distance.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 19, 2017 - 04:37pm PT
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Camp at the Big Flat Granite Spot.... just a bit before you go into the backpackers parking.
I always liked to park at the 90 degree bend in the road, close to Power Dome. But that's all closed off now.... See Kris picture.
I don't think anybody is looking to hike down to the backside of PD, close to the Sandstone intrusion.
Ill think about a Aug 4-6 .... who get up at 5am to go climbing??
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Jun 19, 2017 - 06:44pm PT
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who get up at 5am to go climbing??
Me and Micronut for sure and probably a few others.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 19, 2017 - 09:06pm PT
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would love to go. Blocking it out on cal.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2017 - 08:20am PT
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I guess my description of back side is bad. We will be car camping where we can find a spot on the east side of the dam. I just may bring my fishing pole for the hot part of the day.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2017 - 03:16pm PT
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Bump for gathering. Mark your calendars.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Jul 19, 2017 - 09:17pm PT
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Save me a spot, and I'll give you a good spencer tracy belay...I promise!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jul 19, 2017 - 10:12pm PT
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Sweet!
I missed this thread but somehow still have those dates marked for "Courtright" in my calendar? Hopefully I can come for at least part of it.
I'm gonna throw a dry blanket on this party, 90 degrees is sending temps! All you people from the coast need to toughen up if you wanna hang with central valley hardmen :) Can't be considered hot if it's only double digits.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 19, 2017 - 10:30pm PT
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All you people from the coast need to toughen up if you wanna hang with central valley hardmen :)
Ha! Obviously you have never climbed at the Gunks in August. Try 85 degree temps at 90% humidity while every hold you touch is covered with squishy caterpillars and you are constantly face to face with those flat wasp nests. Then you mantel up onto the first decent ledge in 100 feet only to find yourself face to face with a copperhead. All the while the black flies are diving into your ears and crawling around on your eardrums. And as if that's not enough you've got weirdo's climbing naked, as in their sacks are hangin' out, and 90 year old men soloing High Exposure.
Then, when yer down from your climb, you can hang out at the UberFall and watch the chicks doing endless sets of pinky finger one-arms in short-shorts. That until the Preserve Ranger comes up and asks you for the money you had set aside for dinner...
Worse yet you decide to lead that little "5.8" face right there at grand central station called Dirty Gerdie, you know, to show the locals you're a trad dude. Oops.
That sh*t will break you central valley hardmen like twigs.
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ruppell
climber
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Jul 19, 2017 - 10:37pm PT
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Ksolem
That was some funny sh!t. Makes me miss it. In Oct at least. lol
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jul 20, 2017 - 08:23am PT
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I don't know, Kris, that sounds a lot like a trip to the grocery store in Fresno. Just missing some meth and teen pregnancy
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 20, 2017 - 08:48am PT
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Kris thats the way it is.
Davy .... camping "EAST" of the dam? Dam I always get turned around at that place, so i think you mean camp after one crosses over the dam then you go past the "old, original campspot" and look for the spots along the road, in the trees, and on the big granite slab..... if you get to the backpackers spot you have gone to far. RIGHT?
I think I will be there Friday through Monday. Early am Traper dome looks like the ticket.
Fishing... Im not to well versed in westside flyfishing. I have landed some nice fish in the lake on nightcrawlers but I don't do that anymore. Any special patterns for those trout below Power Dome?
I do know that some weird ass bugs originate in the Central Valley due to the hostile environment.
And does anybody know where I could rent a "DaBrim" for the weekend?
One like this.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1812495&msg=2332967#msg2332967
So looking fwd to this one.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jul 21, 2017 - 08:11am PT
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Save me a spot, and I'll give you a good spencer tracy belay...I promise!
Dwight.....are you sure you didn't mean "I'll give you a good Mark Spencer belay."? That's should get Kris started, eh? ;)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 21, 2017 - 09:28am PT
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jul 21, 2017 - 09:30am PT
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Still waiting for it, Kris. Because, afterall, I wouldn't wanna be like you...... ;)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 21, 2017 - 09:37am PT
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Ha!
You know there's room for some more routes over by Face of a Blue Eyed Dog. How about one called Let Sleeping Dogs Lie.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jul 21, 2017 - 10:02am PT
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awesome name! If only I could climb that hard.....'communion wafer' edging and smearing! Thought the same about the left side of Dusy.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 21, 2017 - 10:12am PT
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Forgive me but I do not have a Guide yet....
Where is this "Divorce Quartz" climb on PD located at?
Mooch.... some stories are best told around a roaring campfire after a few stiff ones.
and I'm still looking for info on local Flies.... LC???
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jul 21, 2017 - 02:39pm PT
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and I'm still looking for info on local Flies.... LC???
I'm no expert but I have my favorites for up there. In the rivers at least, I've never fished the lakes. Pretty much the same stuff I use in all the local rivers at mid elevations.
Favorite dries: Elk hair caddis (olive or yellow body), parachute adams and stimulators (orange or red).
Nymphs: Gold-ribbed hare's ear and bead head pheasant tail (copper john or golden stoneflies if those aren't working).
Other: Olive woolybugger if you like stripping line instead of drifting.
And I don't use any of those teeny tiny sizes like they do on the east side. Most of my nymphs and dries are around size 12-16, bigger for stimulators and woolybuggers obviously.
If you haven't checked it out, when in doubt check this out: http://stevenojai.tripod.com/hatchWest.htm
^^^^^ actually just look over the linked page twice a day until it's memorized. Priceless!
Disclaimer Everyone I fish with has their favorite and they're often different than mine. These are what I use 95% of the time and only switch if they're not working. I usually don't have to switch.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 21, 2017 - 03:01pm PT
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Thanks a 1,000,000 for the link.
It should be printed out and pasted on the wall in the garage.
LC... hope to see you.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Jul 21, 2017 - 09:07pm PT
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Dang both "two shoes" and I are ready to deliver some Spencer Tracy to all in need...Kris, I'd even contract for a "Mercy Pull" climb if you wanted as long as you would reciprocate!
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Jul 21, 2017 - 09:11pm PT
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Mooch, Now, Now were all friends here...and some of us are a little elderly and might not knife fight like we used to...yikes!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 21, 2017 - 09:14pm PT
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Guy, notice that little yellow stone I am always fishing is good in July. Also, parachute hare's ear or adams along with humpy's and caddis. I'll bring lots of all of those.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 21, 2017 - 09:16pm PT
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So who are the qualified rope guns for all these Courtright classics everyone is pointing out that we should climb?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 21, 2017 - 10:01pm PT
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I'm looking forward to bringing a lawn chair and my dog, and kicking back while watching new generation climbers tick our old 1980's routes.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Jul 21, 2017 - 10:14pm PT
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I'm with you Kris...but we still have to do something stupid...okay?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jul 21, 2017 - 10:14pm PT
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I'm super good at top-roping with a really really tight belay, if that counts.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 25, 2017 - 08:49am PT
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So who are the qualified rope guns for all these Courtright classics everyone is pointing out that we should climb?
Let's see ..... I have Joe coming along with me. I have been sicking him on sport climbs lately... starting and working up through the grades... he is at 11b without a lead fall or a "take" so far ..... I reckon Organism Addict might be a great place to start out.
And we are going to have Cole Gibson and Wife Stef ..... Stef is in fine shape- she is looking pretty darn lean and fit.... six pack and all! I watched her on-site an 11b last weekend.
I hope the Fresno boys show up.... those boys know how to climb and party-- CV style!
And I know he is a shy one but I hope DMT brings the VAN ... maybe TAD too...
So Gome bring your edging shoes.... we will be challenged.
Climbing and Fishing.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jul 25, 2017 - 09:07am PT
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Guyzo - Feeding fuel for the FLAMES is all I'm doing. Spray the rest around the campfire. I'll bring a few bottles of the new porter I made: Neanderthal Pre-Prohibition Porter; soft notes of cocoa, vanilla bean, cardamom. Checks in at 10.3%. Put your big boy pants on.....
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jul 25, 2017 - 09:23am PT
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Man, you guys are going to have a blast. Have fun and drink up!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jul 25, 2017 - 09:27am PT
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Justin -
Why not come?!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jul 25, 2017 - 09:33am PT
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I will be in Canada, eh?
Dave, next time you come up to soyo let me know.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 25, 2017 - 09:56am PT
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Justin ..... bo hoooo you will be missed... SoYo later in the year.
Dave... you bring just a FEW bottles.... I didn't know you were brewing beer.... in your kitchen?
And Gome.... yes, I will gladly loose a bunch of your flies bring a bunch.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 26, 2017 - 07:54pm PT
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I suspect it'll be sizzling hot. However, fortunately, that doesn't work as an excuse to not take pictures. So us lurkers still expect to see plenty of pictures posted from this upcoming gathering.
And we're not talking about pictures of people fishing. I'm sort of expecting pictures of people sending Seam Stress (is there supposed to be a space in there or not? I've also seen it as SeamStress) and The Gold Standard, at a minimum. Know what I mean?
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Jul 26, 2017 - 08:01pm PT
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Yes, it will probably be sizzling hot in the Fresno/Clovis area, but I have been climbing several times this summer at Courtright when it was around 100 oF in Fresno/Clovis, but in the mid to low 70's at Courtright. However, with the sun on the rocks the ambient temperature felt much higher than the mid to low 70's, yet the situation was still very nice.
On second thought, yes it is boiling hot at Courtright, the rock is choss, and the routes are crap - better to climb elsewhere, he he he.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 26, 2017 - 08:07pm PT
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Yeah, right... that last sentence is supicious.
I've been to Courtright, so I know better. But that's part of the reason I'd like to see some pictures of what goes down. It is a great place.
Direct sun on hard slab, even if it isn't > 80 degrees can make things difficult - at least IMO.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Jul 28, 2017 - 08:45pm PT
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Hi all, was at courtright today and yesterday and it was super crowded, most of the free camp sites full, not sure where the 2 climbing party groups are going to stay at next weekends gathering?, the trapper/spring and marmot camp sites open this week, but only 16 sites at trapper/spring are first come bases and the rest a reservation only, iIbooked site 49 at trapper/spring for Aug 3-7 so if any one wants to stop by and have a beer or go climbing with me stop by, man since 2012 the forest service has closed more then half of the free camping by the lake, this leaves not many options, courtright is losing it's wild and free felling, this is sad!!! if your going to the gathering next weekend hope you find a camping spot, happy climbing Mike A.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Jul 28, 2017 - 08:59pm PT
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Jul 28, 2017 - 09:18pm PT
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hey bro,i came by your car twice but both times you were not there, sorry i missed you, would of been psyched to climb with you.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Jul 28, 2017 - 10:21pm PT
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jul 28, 2017 - 11:26pm PT
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Last minute family vacations before school starts again. SEKI was busy too. Hopefully that'll be finishing up by next week and there'll be spots open?
Well, this part of SEKI wasn't busy
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 29, 2017 - 11:55am PT
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Daveytree, I'm out for Court. Got a family backpack that starts the next day for a week. I swear I'm going to make one of the events!
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Jul 29, 2017 - 05:49pm PT
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I'm out too......dropping my kid off in Phoenix.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2017 - 09:14am PT
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No worries. There will always be the next one. Maybe a fall Elderberry Hoffman trip is in order.
Ger, I saw Linda up there yesterday after we climbed at Spring Dome. She said you had been up and climbed. Good stuff.
I will hopefully find a free spot and hang a sign "DaveyTree" next to it for anyone looking to connect. There was a more people than normal but hopefully less this next weekend so free spots will be open.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jul 30, 2017 - 10:04am PT
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We went up for the day on Friday. Hadn't been up there for a while. Such a nice day. Won't be able to make it up next weekend but I hope you guys have a good time and climb something good and scary.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Jul 30, 2017 - 01:15pm PT
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[photo[photoid=505668]id=505666]
Great day yesterday with Barry Chambers on finishing up "Geeking Hard" on Dome with a View.
Barry as always did some awesome leading and thought it came in around 5.7. I would beg to differ at at least 5.8+...of course thats climbing with Barry.
We need a second opinion on this Toloumne-like wall. Well worth the 45 minute walk in!
Mostly bolts but bring nuts and cams .25-3 and build a belay under the final headwall.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 30, 2017 - 03:00pm PT
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Henny, no space in Seamstress. Gold Standard gets late afternoon shade...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 31, 2017 - 10:39am PT
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Micro... Nice vest! So you shop--Bass Pro too?
Just about all packed up... going to miss all of the no shows. Looking forward to all of the NEW stuff to be found... 5.7 or 5.8D bring it!
Tri-cams packed, Fishing Rod packed.
Need a ton of beer and some coffee, chalk and one of those new Guide Books...
We be almost ready.
now to just grind through three days.
see you all later
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jul 31, 2017 - 10:59am PT
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Dave, next time you come up to soyo let me know.
Hoping Sue sends out an email on when Susufest will be. I'll be gone Aug 18th - 22nd. I'm hoping its not those dates. Always a great time with those fools. On that note, don't be a stranger in Shuteye Guyzo, especially meeting up to join in a Tribal Gathering. Good folks you haven't met yet.
Kinda on the fence on going to the Courtright gig......having a hard time finding a dogsitter. Wanted to get some things done out there without tending to Maggie. Wanted to get on some long routes. We'll see....
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 31, 2017 - 02:26pm PT
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To me the forecast looks great, I prefer the occasional shower to the blistering heat. I just spent four days at Dome/Needles and it was cooker hot. High 90's at Ponderosa.
NWS Hanford for Courtright, 37.1°N 118.96°W (Elev. 8232 ft)
Thursday
A 30 percent chance of showers and thunderstorms after 11am. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 71. East southeast wind around 5 mph becoming south in the morning.
Thursday Night
A 30 percent chance of showers and thunderstorms before 11pm. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 50. Southwest wind 5 to 10 mph becoming east in the evening.
Friday
A 30 percent chance of showers and thunderstorms after 11am. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 73. South southwest wind around 5 mph.
Friday Night
A 30 percent chance of showers and thunderstorms before 11pm. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 49. Southwest wind 5 to 10 mph becoming east southeast in the evening.
Saturday
A 20 percent chance of showers and thunderstorms. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 72. South southwest wind around 5 mph.
Saturday Night
A 20 percent chance of showers and thunderstorms. Partly cloudy, with a low around 49. West southwest wind 5 to 10 mph becoming east in the evening.
Sunday
A 20 percent chance of showers and thunderstorms. Mostly sunny, high near 72.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Jul 31, 2017 - 04:31pm PT
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Mooch, so sorry to hear Trump fired you...we still love you though
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 31, 2017 - 09:59pm PT
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Elderberry Hoffman
I am without a doubt going to be going out there in September.
Will ping you closer to Sept.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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So at this point who's on deck for this event? It's a long drive for me to go up there and find nobody home.
See the forecast I posted on the last page? It looks like hot sunny slabs will not be a problem, and unless Mike A is sandbagging us ( :-) ) bugs will not be an issue either...
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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When you going for Kris?
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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I will be there Thursday afternoon, ps I would never sand bag!!! Lol:-)
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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No prob with bugs in the sunshine on the slabs. But shade and greenery near the lake, they are annoying.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I dunno about those 50 - 80% numbers. Of course the truth will tell, but the NWS Hanford numbers are going down not up. Anyway, I'll take a little rain over the blistering hot sun.
Jan, I'm leaving here Thurs AM.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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My guess is that the micro trash at the base of climbs is devoid of tape but has a preponderance of cig butts...to calm the nerves.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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The Mooch is toast!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Yah, not going to make the gathering. Likely going back out there Labor Day weekend for "special ops" and "other stuff".
Cheers, THE MOOCH!
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2017 - 02:05pm PT
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Heading up Thursday evening
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I should roll in mid-afternoon on Thurs. I'm hoping to camp on that flat granite slab just before the trailhead gate. Gray Tacoma double cab long bed.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Cool Kris, I will look you up tomorrow, we can drink a beer and i can try and sale you my awesome Courtright guide book lol :-)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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So I stopped in at REI... no guide books in stock. Figures.
Dwight are you coming up? And will you have any for sale???
I have cash money!
Showing up with the Stoney youth movement Thursday at midnight...
If you're camping on the slab... I apologize for all the boisterous conduct in advance.
This will be glorious..... when was Carson Kodus last climbed???
And to mooch... you can ship me some of those beers you have been bragging about, I will post a report.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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That's cause I bought the last one on Saturday Guy.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Have fun ladies and gentleman....small crimps and tall tales coming up! Plus, a mandatory TR.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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It's not all just slabs. Just sayin'...
Hitting the road...
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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I'll be getting in late Friday night and will hang out until bedtime Saturday night, when I have to head home.
Can't get the whole weekend but looking forward to 24 hours of fun!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Wish I could make it but we are doing some family vacay up in Tahoe. Looking forward to a TR and some photos of road rash when somebody gets a bit more run-out than they intend to and take a big scraper/whipper because they are trying to act as cool as they act online and in real life they are actually a really crappy climber.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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^^^^^ hahahahaaa!!!!
We both know that was directed at me, jerk.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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^^^ I don't know why that made me laugh so much!
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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I'm in! I will see you tomorrow night.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2017 - 09:28am PT
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Courtright was a good time. Paul and I got up there Thursday night in the rain. Beer and whiskey in the plush 6 person tent. Camped just past the geological sight on the left in the trees, Awesome spot. A few others from Paul's work joined us as well as Eric Swanson, Limpingcrab and Climberdude during the weekend. Mike A. Stopped by bringing his Tequila shots in hand.
Paul and I got on East Power Dome then over to Punk Rock which I had never been to. One climb and rain chased us back to our beer and whiskey.
Saturday we returned to Punk Rock to get some TR set up for Paul's work friends who had never climbed outside. They did well and had fun.
After Crabs got his harness back from the newbies, he and I spied a line toward the left side of the tree area that holds the big 5.2 to the ledge. Clean granite lie back for 165' to a ledge. Moved belay to the right 40', near where the 5.2 finishes, and up another fun line, slightly dirtier but good pro, of crack/ lieback, for 100' to boulders for anchor, walk off. Almost an epic since I forgot to bring water up from the base. We discussed the route after and figured it went at least 5.6d.
Hold the Beaver 5.6d Pro to 3" 2p. FA Jeffcoach/Fries 08/05/17 @ 12:35:06 hours with threat of looming thunder, lightening and rain.
Daniel then wanted to try the corner head wall on the far right side of the wall. Pancake type wall with some reachy moves in the .11s. The top out showed Crabs true form as he went inverted feet up into an offwidth roof crack. Couldn't right himself over the ledge but had his hands on the top lip so in gym style he sent that bitch....Soggy McDouble's..... a soon to be famous newly named project.
Wrapped up and back to camp for lunch and tall tails of epic moderate sends. We finished the day at Damn Cracks which I took pictures of with Crabs camera since I forgot my phone for pics and felt like poop. They sent the lines which was quite the talk of the damn people standing on the damn while fishing from the damn or driving across the damn.
Sunday we went and climbed some newer routes on the approach trail to West PD, Page 86,87 in guide book. Climbed a 5.7 with some cool features of finger pocket and quartz bulges called a classic Champagne Colored Asians and then the .10b/c to it's left. Cool area looking down over the creek.
Back to the camp for some tri-tip sandwiches and a beer before hitting the road back to Fresburg. Good times......
Hopefully those with a camera will post up some pics. I will post some once I get some forwarded to me.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Glad you had a great time out there, even with some H20 coming down from the heavens. Yah, I went down to CCA and the other routes. Room for a couple more if one was inclined. Was a bit surprised that the first two bolts are situated in the center of the face, yet there are two decent cracks 5' to either side. Lead it without the first two bolts (aliens and nuts). All the same, it was a fun route. I'll call the variation: Rose' Colored Rednecks ;)
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2017 - 12:04pm PT
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The crack to the left was pretty fun. Like the variation name.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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So mooch you were there???
Climbed some stuff on Trapper.... got rained off, it was fun.
The two young Stoney Point climbers, Joe and Jacob, climbed Welcome to Courtright on Sunday, despite the threat of thunder storms. They HAD to go climb that... first time more than one pitch up. Will post some photos later...
Hung out with Scott Loomis and his wife at his campsite.... it is good to see the place all active with climbers.
Spent Monday cleaning up some campfire rings.... I do not understand why some people think they can dispose of garbage in a fire ring. If only wood then one merely moves the rocks and shovels the burnt ends out into the forest were those join the other burnt chunks of wood. Cans, bottles, trash bags and all manner junk never turns into natural forest compost.
Drove home via the Kings Canyon road to Pine Flat just to show the boys some really big rocks and off-width cracks and to take a much needed swim in the Kings.
Fun times all around.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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So mooch you were there???
I was there a few weeks prior. Couldn't go this past weekend.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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CCA???? you speak in acronyms. Hard to get the drift of just what your trying to say.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Keesee, did you get any fishing in?
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Thanks for cleaning up Guy. I predict all dispersed camping anywhere around courtright will soon be banned due to the filthy few. I went up Saturday and climbed power dome with local legend Kenny Rose. Our plan was to climb power line, but we were easily able to talk ourselves out of that and climbed smegmathon instead ("warm up climb"). I was expecting to see multiple parties on the face, like the old days.
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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CCA = "Champagne Colored Asians", which is a route name.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Gome.... No. The after noon rains made it difficult. Scott told me where LimpingC special spot is.... I didn't think I could hike that far downstream and make it out alive. I also tried to get down into Helms deep.... I should have rapped in with Joe and Jacob. I tried to hike in from the Tiger Cage but it gets very steep.
Donut.... sorry we missed you. Spent Sat at Trapper.
Climberdude.... How could I have not known that detail???? THX
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Ha! Guyzo..... I've been witness, over the years, to how cryptic your narratives are, with or without brew in hand. I can't even count the amount of times I've had to ask around for an Enigma machine in order to decipher your stuff. LOL!
CCA - Counter-Cryptic Association ;)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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What's got these guy's attention?
Dream on boys...
...Anybody saw my daughter up there?
I dunno. Is this her? If so she's fallen in with a bad crowd.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Super fun time seeing climbing friends in such a beautiful place, was super psyched to have the time to stay 5 day's and climb and hang out with awesome people, happy climbing Mike A.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Hola! Slow to report back, I'm in the process of moving to exotic Sanger CA and don't have internet there yet (or good phone service in the boons).
Anyway, got up there late Friday night and stayed until dinner on Saturday and never felt a drop of rain.
Fun morning playing around and watching the no-hands belay.
There's Soggy McDoubles that Daveytree was talking about. Ya, I named it even though I didn't pull the roof, that's how we roll in the central valley. There's a free #2 camalot under that final move for anyone who likes climbing stacks of pancakes.
Afternoon playing around on some dam cracks waiting for rain that didn't come. Pretty sure the ratings on the left two routes are switched or messed up in the new guide. Really fun routes.
Glad I went up and had some good laughs around the fire and some fun on the rocks! Courtright is just plain great.
Hey Guy, what the crap, were you up there on Saturday!?!? I had a car full of fishing stuff hoping to hit up Helm's creek or somewhere with you! Sounds like more of you guys were up there than the 7 or so of us at the Daveytree camp, you guys hiding in the woods or what?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Limping.... we were camping at the same plaice I always go to.... The flat granite slab.... sorry to have missed you, again.
Climbed at Trapper on Friday- till run off by rain and on Saturday till run off by rain....I needed to climb classic 5 star climbs again.
Always a great place to climb at- rain or shine.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Not enough climbing shots to warrant a TR, but here's a few of the fun socializing and the beautiful surroundings...
Sunset on Friday from camp. Rain coming.
Guy, the cook, makes a hearty breakfast.
My CZ pellet rifle was a hit in camp. Here, Jacob eye's his prey: an empty beer can at 25 yards.
Joe's leading the classic Trapper Dome sport climb, Orgasm Addict. On the deck, left to right are: Rep of the new generation, Jacob; The Mentor, Guyman; video producer extraordinaire, Cole Gibson; The Veteran, Scott Loomis.
Relax, she's not a politician. Cole's stunning wife Stephanie salutes the rock.
Cole eyeballs the first bolt on Orgasm Addict. Scott Loomis did the FA on lead back in the 1980's. Good one, Scott. I've done this climb more times than I can remember, it's always too much fun.
Hiking back from a bit of climbing on the south face of Power Dome Stephanie, Cole, and I were treated to some beautiful scenery. This little stream runs into Helms Creek, which runs through Wishon Reservoir to join the mighty north fork of the Kings River.
Meanwhile back at the ranch, Joe kibitzes while Jacob kills more beer cans.
On Sunday the weather cooperated, so Joe and Jacob did Welcome To Courtright. This five pitch route was their first long climb. Then the sun set as it always does...
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Well I'll be darned, we we're camped less than 100 yards from your guys on the uphill side of the road. I'm pretty sure we waved at each other one of the times I passed in my blue Forester. Bummed that I didn't intrude and say hi.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Damn, I drove by that site a few times (dark gray Tacoma.)
I didn't stop because you guys looked downright dangerous... :-)
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Okay so CCA was named for a campaign colored Buick full of energetic and fun drunk Asian fisherman we met when leaving the geologic area. As they asked what we were up to, Glenn and I told em that if we succeeded with some climb we'd name it for em...and there you go.
So sorry to have missed you all there. Looked like a great and maybe sometimes wet times in that beautiful place with awesome people.
Some family health issues are a priority right now and kept me in that San Joaquin frying pan, but looking for positive progress toward more climbing meet-ups in the future...BTW Guy's breakfasts look phenomenal!
All the best, d.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Nice shots Kris!
Steph and I had a total blast at Courtright hanging with the crew. Great times and convo at the crag, campground and fire. We will definitely be back.
Super awesome to meet Joe and Jacob, two young dudes from Stoney Point, and to see the tradition of mentorship from Stney is still very much alive! Watching Guy prep the boys for their "Welcome to Courtright" send with a 2-minute lesson on tri cams, whittling down the rack to what was needed, going over the topo and showing where to stash some send beers in the shade was truly priceless.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Mooch, which crack is Rose Colored Rednecks..."RCR" left or right?
Yeah, I think that we just wanted to face climb that day...but those wicked bud lights might have been involved as usually usual.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Another route but cant remember if we named it. Fun face to a ledge then incipient cracks to the top. Maybe .7+ with McHam "the Man". bolts and tri-cams and cams to 3". kinda a fun start though.
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Aug 10, 2017 - 08:57am PT
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Flydude, thanks for the info about the climb lower down. I saw the start of this climb, but wondered what climb it was since it is not in the guidebook. I will have to do it sometime. The start looks very fun.
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