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Andy KP
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 6, 2017 - 07:03am PT
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A few people have been asking me to write something about Alex's climb, but with so many dead superheroes I don't have the heart, to applaud it would just make me part of the gurning wincing mob, and to be critical would just make me sound old. The only words that came to mind were Byron's: "Who tracks the steps of glory to the grave?", thinking that Byron would have marveled at this strangest of roulette-suicide-performance, broadcast on all channels and in 4K. Instead, I'll just post here an email I sent to Alex in 2012, not to show some small foresight (it wasn't), but rather for Gods in waiting, who want to put the barrel between their teeth, to ponder for just a second.
//Hi Alex
Many moons ago I was asked to pick up an award for you at the Kendal Mountain Film festival for your first film. I can remember watching it before I got up and thinking that, unlike people like Ueli or Dean - who I guessed would die climbing - I really hoped you made it (Dean and Ueli dance to a different drum than you). Here was a unique human being - hell - a demigod! - and the world was a much richer place with you in it. When I picked up the award someone said I had to give a speech, so I just said the first thing that came into my mind, which was “Beware of the audience” - sage advice given to me by a long dead soloist.
A few years later I finally sat opposite you in the canteen in the Valley, and instead of me saying hello to you, you said ‘Are you Andy Kirkpatrick’ - which I thought was pretty cool. That year I was out there trying to solo Zodiac in a day, which for a 40 year old non valley climber with kids - and in June! - turned out to be quite a trip (soloed it in a push but not under 24h in the end).
Anyway sat there talking to you, I had the feeling again that I hoped you made it. Here was an Achilles of rock! Your talent and uniqueness are only manifest in rock now, but who knows what wonders they could conjure later?
I’m sure if I’d got down on my knees and said ‘please stop soloing hard sh#t Alex’ you’d have thought I was mad, and who’d want you to. Instead, I just gave you a cryptic line, that when a Roman emperor rode through Rome - the crowds cheering the most powerful man who had ever lived - he would have a slave beside him whispering ‘remember that you’re mortal’.
Why am I writing this? Well when people say to me sometimes (always complete strangers), ‘please by careful’ I used to think it was because I was so f*#king hardcore - but it wasn’t, it was because they loved this person they’d never met, and this love and care was deeper than the fleeting burst of adrenaline of a man risking it all for f*#k all. You’re only a commodity to mags and sponsors, but you’re a brother to all climbers everywhere. I’m writing this as your brother because that’s what a brother would do (along with a well done!).
So get your sh#t together and make the first free solo of El Cap, don’t die doing it, then do the hardest move of your life and make that your legacy to climbing - not your death.
Cheers
Andy//
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WBraun
climber
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You people should quit projecting your own fantasies onto him wanting him to be like the fantasies you've created in your own minds.
He is him not you .......
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Andy KP
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2017 - 07:55am PT
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Wax melts
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Climbing is not worth dying for...
Neither is proximity flying, heroin or eating puffer fish. It's also kinda beside the point.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Some people do not like kids lol Kingtut
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1122068/CLIMB-and-PUNISHMENT-An-Open-Telegram-to-Alex-Honnold
This from Ed Drummond,
(Ed who?- He put up several extremely difficult and dangerous (very loose rock) sea cliff climbs in England. Look up "A Dream of White Horses" the Sea Cliff, ? . . White Horse's . . . A loose death-wish Hooror show on the coast of England. . )
Andy KP
climber, Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2017 - 07:55am PT
Wax melts ?
WAX MELTS
Where have all the flowers gone?
Dabs? Wax? Concentrates?
I've never had the chance to
I hear the Concetrates are great
Just a dab will do ya'
but where's is the fun in that;
Just one hit?
one always consumes more than one needs
As great as A hit is, two or more, as possible,
is greater still?
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WBraun
climber
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Why do you rescue someone?
I've never rescued anyone.
The US govt did ......
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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eKat..... +1
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Vey cool Andy. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I share the same sentiment. I'm sure on some level he appreciated it.
Scott
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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no one can tell him what to do. we can certainly hope that he dials the soloing back to pleasure climbing levels. he seems like a super nice guy with a lot to offer the world.
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nah000
climber
now/here
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climbing is not worth dying for
'not dying' is not worth dying for...
to paraphrase: it's not just lack of food that kills a person...
only person who knows what truly feeds himself is alex.
all of these 'open letters' are just climbing's version of letters to the editors about politics.
only difference is these [unlike the ones to the editors] are completely [rather than just mostly] impotent.
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JimT
climber
Munich
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This from Ed Drummond,
(Ed who?- He put up several extremely difficult and dangerous (very loose rock) sea cliff climbs in England. Look up "A Dream of White Horses" the Sea Cliff, ? . . White Horse's . . . A loose death-wish Hooror show on the coast of England. . )
Hmm, I´ve climbed with Ed Ward-Drummond (as he was then) back in the day.
A Dream of White Horses is hardly a loose death-wish horror show, its a solid, borderline 5.9/5.10a. It´s also NOT in England.
While some of his climbing achievements where noteworthy in the context of the age he always held controversial views which have not stood the test of time and appeared to be a "confused" character to put it gently. Not a person who´s views I would ever be remotely interested in reading or following.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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What's more tragic? That he die soloing or die as an old man of disease?
The answer is neither, if you feel it's one or the other then that's your judgment, your selfishness, your fears projected.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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If Alex was on his own journey and completely in control of his own fate he would not have entered into a publicity deal with the Fox media conglomerate. I do not fault him in any respect, just saying that our choices are not always made solely from our own consciousness.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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His choice to work with Nat Geo proves that it wasn't his choice?
Your logic is wanting.
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Thanks, Andy - I understand your sentiments completely. When you see an amazing person who really has his or her head on straight and is apparently a really good human being too, you don't want to lose them.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I don't think less of my friends who died climbing because they died climbing
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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What's more tragic? That he die soloing or die as an old man of disease?
I bet if you ask Alex, he would say that he'd like to live to get old.
Nobody is trying to tell Alex what to do, they're only hoping out loud that he lives a long life.
My guess is that Dean, Ueli and John wouldn't be spouting any swami bin solo crap right now, and all thought what the f*#k at that awful moment.
Beware the audience is a good one.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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What's more tragic? That he die soloing or die as an old man of disease?
The couple of times I came 'that' close to dying while climbing I can vividly recall wishing I was reading a magazine on the toilet instead.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Yup. I have made many a deal with god that if i live through this i will never do anything this stupid again......
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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I'm sure Alex Honnold is logging in to SuperTopo right now to see whether or not he has the approval of all the super important climbing figures that hang around here all day long...
🙄
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Alex is a person of exceptional qualities and has demonstrated that he may perhaps be the greatest living human athlete as well as one of the top ten in human history.
If we are lucky he will figure out what he has that others don't and write a book so we can all be a little better off.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Did you write a letter like this for everyone who does very dangerous activities, or just the one best guy? Is it only a problem if it's Alex who dies soloing, because he's the best?
Get outta here dude.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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He looked steady and well under control in the pictures. Practiced enough that the chosen climb was well below his abilities.
That still doesn't rule out objective hazards such as a broken hold, falling rock, or something dropped or focus broken by the extensive camera crew.
He'll meet his maker someday. To an extent, the manner of departure is his choice and currently he doesn't exhibit suicidal tendencies.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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eKat, I love you too, but...
Let's say that this "remarkable human being" was your son.
What kind of "advice" would you give him without "telling him what to do" Be serious here. I doubt you would tell him "Go for it and be remarkable honey!" If you are honest with yourself, you'll see the sense in what people are saying. I have kids. They are all remarkable. I would advise them against free soloing.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Alex seemed very methodical about his preparation (over a 2 year period) for this climb. Somehow, I doubt Nat Geo forced him into this. Not saying I don't feel some anxiety for him doing this kind of stuff. Just saying Alex acts extremely rational and logical and it is this character in part that has gotten him to where he is now. He gets to fly on his own like all kids do when they grow up. And boy, does he fly; where no man has gone before. Hopefully some of Peter Croft's longevity rubs off on him.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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If Honnold does not stop hard free soloing, he will fall. Yes. That 1:1000000 chance does eventually become an absolute certainty.
You can warp that reality for yourself all you want, but the end result is the same.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Yes, Peter Croft. Exactly.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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As a father, I doubt I could watch him solo that without knowing he makes it.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
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Absolutely nobody has the right to tell this remarkable human being what to do!
NOBODY!
THIS ISN'T SOMEBODY TELLING (ALEX)WHAT TO DO?
Why do I feel I'm being told what to do, post, think?
When did we lose the "right" to post opinion, thoughts, commentary, and yes even recommendations no matter how contrary or different they may be to you, me or anyone?
Growing up, all of us, were told what to do, even Alex, I suspect. A major part of maturation is developing the filters of what to let in, what to filter out, what resonates, what doesn't. We all have those filtering capabilities, and Alex's seem quite profound.
I believe that those that post do so with positive intention...not to be a bully (generally) or demand a certain course of action. I, for one, enjoy reading the sentiments that folks have expressed, regardless of my concurrence with them. There is much humanity when people speak from the heart.
There's a chilling effect when people are suddenly told they don't have a right to express their thoughts on a forum.
The sharing of sentiments about the dissonance between the drive to engage in risky activities and (more or less) lead a long life is very moving to me.
Susan
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Alex is a person of exceptional qualities and has demonstrated that he may perhaps be the greatest living human athlete as well as one of the top ten in human history.
Chris,
I think that is a biased viewpoint. What about people who idolize extreme kayakers, mountain bikers, etc. Are their heroes less athletic?
In regards to people who would rather die doing what they loved, I just don't buy that.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Well said Susan. Actually lots of good stuff to mull over here, and that dissonance between seeking the joy/adventure/enlightenment/transcendence/whatever, versus living a long and happy contented life not dependent on risky behavior... that is an interesting space to explore, and extremely relevant for parents who don't want to raise their kids to just be reproducing robots, but also don't want them to throw away their life on something stupid.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Alex is a person of exceptional qualities and has demonstrated that he may perhaps be the greatest living human athlete as well as one of the top ten in human history.
Chris,
I think that is a biased viewpoint. What about people who idolize extreme kayakers, mountain bikers, etc. Are their heroes less athletic?
In regards to people who would rather die doing what they loved, I just don't buy that.
Yeah, I'm sure the best athletes are all climbers, extreme kayakers, and mountain bikers--activities that are done by .01% (or whatever) of the population, almost exclusively in First World countries.
Those couple billion people who have played soccer or virtually the entire planet that's run at some time or another couldn't have a leg up on us climbers.
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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I can't know but will just have to go with the thought that he really is that good that the moves all feel secure to him.
As far as "objective hazards such as a broken hold, falling rock, or something dropped or focus broken by the extensive camera crew,"
I'd say the danger of those things happening is less than common hazards such as loose holds, rockfall, or avalanche in places many of us go. Of course that is usually only a small part of a route for me, not the entire thing.
Although he is getting paid for this, it seems like he would probably have done it even without the cameras and pay.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Anita sure did pick up a lot of smart ass pointers from Burchey.
Many of these "important climbing figures that hang out around here" have done more to notch street cred than you can dream of sister.
You have done what, jugged a big wall? And yet you feel justified in posting your opinion.
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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When Alex told his mom about Freerider, she said, "Congrats, and thanks for not telling me ahead of time."
It sounds to me like she has come to terms with it better than some of the folks on this Forum. Of course, she's been living with it for years.
People go through phases in life. Fifteen years down the road, if Alex has a wife and kids, he would not do the same thing most likely.
After Bachar had a couple of accidents, and had a 13 yr. old son, he must have thought twice about continuing to free solo, but he decided to continue. It's not for me to say if that was right or wrong, but conditions keep changing, and people need to evaluate and adapt. Alex will make his own choices down the road.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Anita sure did pick up a lot of smart ass pointers from Burchey.
Many of these "important climbing figures that hang out around here" have done more to notch street cred than you can dream of sister.
You have done what, jugged a big wall? And yet you feel justified in posting your opinion.
Survival: Why do you always get offended when I refer to "important climbing figures"? Aren't you the person who once emailed me to give me a detailed list of all the climbs you'd done 30 years ago and who was who on SuperTopo so I could basically know that I was surrounded by greatness that I needed to respect and worship no matter what stupidities they posted here?
I'm glad you feel the need to come down on me because of the little climbing I've done. At least I'm not ragging on Honnold because I'm jealous and a nobody trying to bring his accomplishments down to a level I can relate to.
You have done what, jugged a big wall?
Yup. Not 6 months after having my leg surgically lengthened by 4cm. Jealous?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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the only way a runner could possibly compare would be if they were in a 4 hour race with the best runners in the world and everyone except for the winner gets killed in the end. The thing that seperates this achievemnent from all the ball players, runners, paddelers, bikers and skiers etc in the world is the fact that the athlete will die with any mistake made in the 4 hours to complete the task and the fact that there is only one person in the world that can do this.
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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It would be interesting to have a panel discussion with people like Alex's Mom and Tyrus Bachar, people who have been powerfully affected emotionally by free soloing.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Nobody ever told you to "worship" Anita, certainly not me.
Nor is anyone trying to bring Alex down to their level, he seems worlds beyond us.
But people are posting well considered thoughts here. No one is posting stupidities.
Your pure snarkiness is close though.
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atchafalaya
Boulder climber
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"Aren't you the person who once emailed me to give me a detailed list of all the climbs you'd done 30 years ago and who was who on SuperTopo so I could basically know that I was surrounded by greatness that I needed to respect and worship no matter what stupidities they posted here?"
Would love to see the list of Supertopo's greatest posters.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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the only way a runner could possibly compare would be if they were in a 4 hour race with the best runners in the world and everyone except for the winner gets killed in the end. The thing that seperates this achievemnent from all the ball players, runners, paddelers, bikers and skiers etc in the world is the fact that the athlete will die with any mistake made in the 4 hours to complete the task and the fact that there is only one person in the world that can do this.
From that point of view, there's nothing very impressive about Honnold's achievement from a historical perspective.
Consider gladiators, who had a 50-50 chance of death each time, and whose lives depended solely on their athletic prowess (at least relative to their adversary). Now those were some real world class athletes! Forget all those guys who grow up in African villages or the slums of Rio and make their fortune playing football--their athletic skills are nothing compared to those who master our favorite pastime.
Can anyone doubt there are many climbers who could free solo Freerider with an order-of-magnitude less chance of death than a gladiator faced? I can believe that Honnold has the greatest chance of survival of anyone who could solo Freerider--maybe he was about 99% chance of survival, and some others would only be at 98% or so, who knows.
(Ondra probably has better things to do with his time, but seeing as how a solo would be 3 number grades or so below his max climbing level, I think he'd probably have a pretty good chance of survival--how often do most of you fall on a climb you've got wired that's three number grades below your max?)
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Bla Bla Bla. We are talking modern times here. The gladiators were not faceing the best in the world. they were simply faceing whomever got thrown in there. a more accurate assesment would be a four hour duel between Miamoto Mussashi and whomever was deemed to be the best in the world at that time.....
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landcruiserbob
Trad climber
PUAKO, BIG ISLAND Kohala Coast
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Funny how people want Alex to just become cattle like most of us humans. Let him explore the boundaries of his personal and physical growth. He's a unique mutation and hopefully he gets to breed.
Aloha and be well
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aside from the fact hat Hansjorg Auer didn't solo El Cap I don't see a lot of difference between Auer's solo of the Fish (900m, 12b/c) and Honnold's solo of Freerider (1000m, 12d). The Fish is less sustained but has much worse rock.
In terms of pure danger there's way more objective hazard in the alpine than there is on cliffs. Note that Ueli Steck fell on a snowslope on Nuptse, not soloing the Eiger NF.
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WBraun
climber
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(it is all genetics my friend)
No it ain't.
It takes a consciously advanced person to run that machine ......
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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the consquences of failure on this climb define the climb and the athletic achievement. like it or not the significance of this event is the fact that a single mistake anywhere on the climb means certain death. to try to discount that and compare it to sports where if you make a mistake you simply lose is pointless.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Suddenly Alex is the one we need to focus on as being the most dangerous when in reality there were probably a handful of parties on El Cap this year alone closer to death than he was.
15 year old GDavis building anchors at Dixon Lake could use a letter from KP, only I didn't have The North Face to put pictures of my shitty anchors on a then non-existent facebook.
No, we focus on outliers and forget that the thread that runs through them runs through us all. Honnold might die soloing, Emily Harrington might die skiing an 8k meter peak, Caldwell might blow a dangerous sequence and penjy into a wall. Ice can hit Steve House, rockfall can smash up the Villanueve brothers (?? however you spell their names?).
But no, Alex's pictures are subjectively scarier, if not objectively. So we focus on that.
Not too fair now is it.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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This just in: Alex Honnold hiked to the top of El Cap to congratulate Pete & Limey Sean on their ascent
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WBraun
climber
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Lol ... good one
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dear Alex
Would have been better style to do it in a yellow tshirt, and jesus, man, wear some sunscreen!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Bearbreeder is correct, there are better technical climbers than Alex, there just aren't any climbers who have his fusion of mind and body.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Bearbreeder is correct, there are better technical climbers than Alex, there just aren't any climbers who have his fusion of mind and body.
Who is a better "technical" climber (other than Ondra)?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Alex would be the first to tell you that he is not the world's best boulderer or sport climber that takes nothing away from the fact that he is the world's best CLIMBER.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Thanks for your post, Andy KP.
Your email from 2012 was certainly prescient.
When I heard about what he had done, soloed El Cap, my one and only reaction was to feel sad about it. Because it seems to be a part of a trajectory of ever increasingly difficult challenges that he is setting for himself.
As many have said, it's his life to live.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Alex would be the first to tell you that he is not the world's best boulderer or sport climber that takes nothing away from the fact that he is the world's best CLIMBER.
OK, you didn't write "boulderer or sport climber" in the post I responded to, you wrote "technical climber."
I suppose it isn't exactly clear what "technical climber" means, but I don't think most people would interpret that as "boulderer or sport climber"--I didn't. (And bouldering and sport climbing are different things--generally the same person isn't the best at both, although Ondra may be an unusual exception.)
I'd interpret "technical climber" as sort of an all-around trad/slab/crack (all sizes) gear-placing, trad-leading expert, and I don't know if there's anyone better than Honnold, which is why I asked. Certainly not many. I would imagine Ondra could become better if and whenever he chooses.
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JLyons
Sport climber
Cali
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Jun 6, 2017 - 12:35pm PT
"Aren't you the person who once emailed me to give me a detailed list of all the climbs you'd done 30 years ago and who was who on SuperTopo so I could basically know that I was surrounded by greatness that I needed to respect and worship no matter what stupidities they posted here?"
Would love to see the list of Supertopo's greatest posters.
This would be absolute ST Comedy Gold. What a bunch of self-important bloviators, lol
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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^^^What he said, from the get-go.
He gets paid to take risks, so what?
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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What's amazing is Alex is that good! He had it dialed and was in the zone! He was rational and in control and a sure bet!
Sure something could have gone wrong, but he put in all the work and he knows what to do and he has done the high lonely many times and even backed off when it didn't feel right to him!
I'm sure he is more solid then most with a rope on Freerider, and it was not a suicide run but his manifest destiny! I'm still blown away, cheers Alex!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Of course he was solid and that is what is so amazeing....
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Isa's friends in europe are pretty worked up about Alex and FR.
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shady
Trad climber
hasbeen
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Anyone can live to be 150 years old, so long as they give up everything that makes them want to live to be 150 years old.
(Woody Allen)
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SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
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I'll start by stating an appreciation for his achievement, both physical and mental. That said, I haven't looked at the pics or any video of his climb, nor will I. From the time that Alex stepped onto the climb to the moment that he pulled over the top, he was the human embodiment of Schroedinger's Cat. Unlike the cat, whose fate remained unknown and concealed in a box, Alex's fate played out in full view. Even though people were witness to history, I don't know how they could watch. My choice is not to contribute to a click count that might encourage some unqualified youtube fame seeker to follow in his footsteps.
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PolishClimber
Trad climber
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It is hard to believe the backlash from climbers surrounding this awesome achievement.
As far as boycotting the viewing of the footage so that you don't contribute to its proliferation... Are all Motorsports drivers "Schrodinger's Cat"? Should everyone boycott Formula 1, NASCAR, and Indy so that some "young youtuber" doesn't decide to drive fast?
The trepidation expressed in the letter and elsewhere is understandable, and Tommy Caldwell wrote a great article to that effect on this solo, ( https://www.outsideonline.com/2190306/why-alex-honnolds-free-solo-scared-me ) but everyone should put this climb in perspective and try to avoid the melodramatic pronouncements.
My two cents is that this appeared to be a targeted and logical next step for the style and Alex seems to have put in the work and preparation required to ensure he felt comfortable, strong, and safe enough to complete it.
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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^^^^Agreed. truly badass and what an amazing achievement.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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click counts leading to someone else soloing el cap- hmmmmmm
its clear how mind bending this all is for everyone because its sending so many of you into irrational fits
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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The criticisms of Honnold are baffling to me. Risk has always been part of climbing, and success and fame are often proportional to the amount of risk accepted. The exploits of Bachar and Croft are celebrated here on Supertopo. How is Honnold different? How is what he did different than what Ueli Steck did? I don't recall anyone complaining that Steck was encouraging others to die on Everest. Both climbers prepared meticulously and took calculated risks.
Perhaps someone can explain to me how this climb is qualitatively different from the way climbing has always been practiced by those at the top end of the spectrum.
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SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
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@polishclimber, apples and oranges I think. Motorsports have worked endlessly to make the sport safer for drivers AND fans. The wreck at Indy is proof positive that the efforts are paying off.
That is quite the opposite of a free solo ascent.
Which brings me to the realization that I've never felt compelled to say anything about free solo ascents of any scale, let alone something of the magnitude of El Cap. Perplexing.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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amazing accomplishment, and of course none of us climbers or ex climbers want to even think about what could have happened. i cant imagine the sh#t storm climbers would have faced had he cratered, let alone the trauma of those photographing this historical achievement. we should all be honored that we were alive to even hear this news. of course there is a part of all of us that are like "oh sh#t, dont do it."
not that he needs someone to buy him a rope, but the symbolism might help. ST, take up a collection and buy him a rope. then if something does happen all the blow hards that donated can feel better about themselves.
PS - some of the sh#t on this thread reminds me of the old politics threads....
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PolishClimber
Trad climber
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It's apples and oranges because Motorsport is attempting to mitigate risk for fans and participants?
In my opinion, Alex's continual training to ensure a safe ascent IS risk mitigation. In terms of danger to spectators... This doesn't exist in climbing.
And the idea that Indy is a "safe" event now based on one crash not producing a certain result is not a strong argument. Cars can still become airborne, and the cars still have open cockpits. There is still a huge amount of risk involved that drivers, fans, etc. find acceptable. You are drawing the same lines in Indy that climbers draw in the justification of free-soloing.
But the analogy is beside the point...
I just can't imagine a climber not wanting to view this absolutely astounding footage for the purpose of avoiding the proliferation of risk to the general public. If there was video footage of Hillary and Norgay climbing the Hillary Step for the first time, I'm pretty sure we would all view it, and I'm pretty sure we would all find it astounding and inspiring. Just like this climb.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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After viewing Tom's pictures and the commentary, this seems like a very well planned and skillfully executed climb. Rest, food, hydration. Mental and physical mastery on an epic scale.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Watching climbing is boring. Especially when it's done so smoothly.
He should have added a few dynos and one hand hanging, a la Clifhanger.
I would rather watch golf!
Or at least a full flag like DanO
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Yury
Mountain climber
T.O.
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Anita514:
"Survival: Why do you always get offended when I refer to "important climbing figures"? Aren't you the person who once emailed me to give me a detailed list of all the climbs you'd done 30 years ago and who was who on SuperTopo so I could basically know that I was surrounded by greatness that I needed to respect and worship no matter what stupidities they posted here?" Me too.
Can I also get a list of the greatest supertopians (to make sure I accidentally do not step on their toes). :)
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WBraun
climber
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You don't love him.
Love is unconditional.
You just want to put the bird in a cage in a zoo so that everyone can see and imagine how it used to fly .......
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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I hope Nike endorses Alex and goes with "Just Don't Splat" as the new slogan.
If pro climbers could bring in comparable $ to what other top sports athletes do, what would Alex make in a year? 30 million?
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SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
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I'm all for freedom of choice. I just choose, personally, not to watch. Not even ex post facto. It isn't disapproval, I don't have that right.
It's fear, plain and simple. It's fear for him, and those like him; and fear for myself as a witness.
It's probably why I'm a better sailor than I ever was a climber.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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I questioned Alex' motives years ago out here. But, I'm now convinced he climbs, and free solos, because he loves it. Not for money or any other reason. I think he's in the moment, enjoying himself, and when he was free soloing El Cap there was no place he'd rather be. After 10 years, he's won me over. :)
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Watch the snark level
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WBraun
climber
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Free solo edition (alone on the bed)
LOL ......
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Jun 10, 2017 - 12:06pm PT
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Off topic. Or maybe not.
http://www.latimes.com/local/obituaries/la-me-john-bachar8-2009jul08-story.html
OZYMANDIAS
BY Percy Bysshe Shelley PERCY
I met a traveller from an antique land,
Who said—“Two vast and trunkless legs of stone
Stand in the desert. . . . Near them, on the sand,
Half sunk a shattered visage lies, whose frown,
And wrinkled lip, and sneer of cold command,
Tell that its sculptor well those passions read
Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things,
The hand that mocked them, and the heart that fed;
And on the pedestal, these words appear:
My name is Ozymandias, King of Kings;
Look on my Works, ye Mighty, and despair!
Nothing beside remains. Round the decay
Of that colossal Wreck, boundless and bare
The lone and level sands stretch far away.”
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 10, 2017 - 12:25pm PT
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Always loved Ozymandias. Iambic pentameter and a great metaphor for us conquistadors of the useless.
Congrats to Alex on his hard work and practice to pull this off. He was absolutely jubilant, ebullient even, when he stopped by.
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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Jun 10, 2017 - 07:24pm PT
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bearbreeder,
That’s the funniest thing I’ve seen in a while.
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Jun 11, 2017 - 07:49am PT
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Closer to Home...
As many here know Tobin Sorenson died while rope soloing on the north face of Mt Alberta on October 5th,1980. Although he met his fate falling from the mountain when his belay anchor pulled out on a difficult alpine route, he had also been known to free solo routes of up to 5.11 difficulty during his lifetime.
For a time after Tobin's death I consoled myself by saying that he died doing what he loved. But when I weighed it against all the pain and grief caused by his loss, the life unfinished, the waiting fiancé, the unresolved quandary of parents and siblings, I could not in all honesty justify it to myself.
I realized it was his life and his decision to live his life how he best saw fit as he tried to achieve all the goals and dreams he had for himself. Obviously some of those goals were in conflict with each other, a life of soloing and Alpinism vs. marriage and a life in the ministry, yet Tobin lived large and would have made them work had things turned out differently.
For my part afterwards, I climbed to try and connect with him again in the only way I knew how. In later years when climbing became less feasible and attractive to me he came to me in dreams. Writing what I could about him has given some closure of late. The grief is pared down some now by time and age, but lies subliminal in the subconscious.
Never to be forgotten, Tobin's life was one of the greatest examples of honesty, courage, and integrity I have seen firsthand, and I am privileged to be his brother. Of course, he was one of many climbers I have met who exhibit those qualities. Sadly, due to a preoccupation with my own issues, I never fully appreciated him during his lifetime.
If I could go back in time to warn him of what fate lay in front of him while soloing on his final climb, if such a thing were possible, I suppose I would be compelled to do so. But knowing what I know now of human nature and from what I knew of Tobin, he would have thanked me for my concern, and then continued to climb solo anyway.
-Tim Sorenson
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jun 11, 2017 - 07:55am PT
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What a great post Tim.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 11, 2017 - 10:48am PT
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The North Face had a full page ad in today's NYTimes SundaySports section...
"Last week Alex Honnold became the first person to
free solo Yosemite's El Capitan. No ropes, no harness.
Just unmatched physical and mental strength and an
unwavering commitment to the impossible. Alex, we
love you and wish you a lifetime of exploration. But next
time, please use a rope!"
most of the add is an image of Alex sitting on a porch, barefoot, and the large lettering across his image, "El Capitan"
indeed!
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colin rowe
Trad climber
scotland uk
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Jun 11, 2017 - 12:28pm PT
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Response to Jim T.
I too have climbed with Ed Drummond and consider him a friend. Ed's ascent of The Longhope Route on St John's Head, Orkney, Scotland in 1970 was a considerable achievement for its time and future extension. The 2011 free version was outstanding.
I take exception to your unqualified statements regarding his character the nature of which do not reflect my experiences of the man.
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 11, 2017 - 12:35pm PT
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In the old daze you could climb some sh!t and your friends will congratulate you and hand you a beer.
Now-a-daze they'll put you under a microscope and over analyze the sh!t out of you and even dream that you'd better off if you fell on grenade ......
:-)
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 11, 2017 - 04:49pm PT
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Some random McTopo wienie:
"You have done what, jugged a big wall?"
Our Anita:
"Yup. Not 6 months after having my leg surgically lengthened by 4cm. Jealous?"
Oh my gosh. I laughed so hard I spilled my beer!
Good ol Anita....
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 11, 2017 - 10:06pm PT
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Anita is a competent and motivated wall partner and is a solid addition to the team.
She is also somewhat cute.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Jun 11, 2017 - 11:09pm PT
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jun 11, 2017 - 04:49pm PT
Some random McTopo wienie:
"You have done what, jugged a big wall?"
Our Anita:
"Yup. Not 6 months after having my leg surgically lengthened by 4cm. Jealous?"
Oh my gosh. I laughed so hard I spilled my beer!
Good ol Anita....
Not sure why referencing that your girl toy doesn't lead is relevant here...?
How do you get Alex's email? Some kind of Facebook club? Oh man, how do I join?
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colin rowe
Trad climber
scotland uk
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Jun 12, 2017 - 02:42am PT
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There is no "fusion of body and mind". There is only bodymind post Descartes in western philosophy anyway.
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mort7777
Trad climber
Santa Barbara
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Jun 28, 2017 - 09:49am PT
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My hats off to Werner. He is right about this matter - WORD!
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mort7777
Trad climber
Santa Barbara
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Jun 28, 2017 - 09:53am PT
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And eKat too. _ WORD!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jun 28, 2017 - 10:06am PT
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Someone asked Werner why he rescues people? Because the Valley would really start to smell if he didn't, especially come summer.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 28, 2017 - 10:27am PT
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To get the real answer to what we would feel if we were Alex's mom, perhaps we should turn to Alex's mom and not play the game of "What if."
We can look at the raging that went on after Dano's rope broke. But let's ask his daughter. Or Dean's 'survivors.' What is their feelings for their loved ones. Tim wrote, and pulled out deep thoughts and feelings on his brother, and we can get a glimpse how the unsuccessful trip reverberates.
While it sucks to loose someone close, someone you love beyond description, there is a point where you must respect one's drive and desire to push past boundaries.
We're all affected, in one way or another, by the accomplishments of folks who push our known boundaries. Being it a sailor who tries to find the edge of the ocean, mountaineers who quest for the highest piece of land on Earth or the southern-most point, or folks who like to feel the edge of death by soloing. Certainly these are personal adventures, but they also are adventures that chill those who cannot imagine their quest.
To be an armchair quarterback is just that--who are we to try to make the call when we're not even in the game.
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Jun 28, 2017 - 11:42am PT
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Buying a house can kill ya too! Just a bit different and a bit slower. To each his own. Ciao
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 28, 2017 - 01:32pm PT
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You should stop this preaching.
He was born to do this regardless to your feelings and speculations.
Go save someone that needs it.
Can you even save yourself ..........
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rbord
Boulder climber
atlanta
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Jun 28, 2017 - 02:05pm PT
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I just wanted to take a break from what I do to preach to you that you should stop your preaching. Now I'll go back to my exceptional human nature and do the things I like to do (like preaching to you to stop your preaching).
I'll bet Alex is not so different. Maybe just a little humbler than I am. I like that guy, and that seems like a more exceptional Alex quality than soloing el cap.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 28, 2017 - 04:02pm PT
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I appreciate the responses to my post above. It's tough to stick you toe into this water, to weigh in on the meanings or reasons we climb and solo. What it is for one might not be the reasons for another.
We've all heard the theory that the most dangerous part of climbing is driving to the crag. Folks pitch it off the road all the time. Do we say, "They died doing what the love" if they were on their way to recreation? Nah, we say, "Damn, the son-of-a-bitch died too young."
In other words, driving is a risk we all shoulder, and we all accept that risk. So we don't get into the metaphysical ideas of what it means to drive, even if a friend of ours doesn't make it to the crag (or back from a radio broadcast).
It's pretty simple. People don't ever feel as alive as when they solo. Also fact, they never feel as dead as when they fall from on up high. Or as my favorite 5.10 ad simply stated, "It's not that life is short, it's that you're dead for so long."
Yeah, I miss the buddies I had who have pitched doing stupid, outrageous things. Do I wish they were still here so I could rib them about their stupidity? Hell yes. Do I wish them a different life?
Only sometimes.
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nah000
climber
now/here
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Jun 28, 2017 - 05:17pm PT
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kingtut: wow... thanks for the reminder as to why i haven't entered a church in about fifteen years. i'll refrain from doing a line by line response even though each line is pretty much as annoying as the last one. instead i'll limit myself to three responses...
Alex has pushed himself to conquer something that is fundamentally useless, it advances the human condition not one iota.
this is just factually incorrect. by this logic we should still all be crawling on our hands and knees, because every incremental step between crawling towards walking then towards running was, in and of its incremental self, fundamentally useless. ie. you're just flat out wrong on this front, as you fail to see the bigger picture and are only focused on the incremental step.
We are indulging in selfish and narcissistic ego games seeking accolades within the sphere of our own interests...fun and games, not serious biz.
what's this "we" about? who the fUck do you think you are to speak for "we"? and sorry that's all you ever got out of climbing...
Don't die being a Conquistador of the Useless.
ok. here's something i agree with. but obv not with the same interpretation as to what you've defined "useless" as being...
life is short. life is often brutal. no single one can by definition know the all. as such, follow your heart, while using your head...
as far as i've been able to gather so far, everything else is useless... [regardless of whether or not it is kingtut approved]
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nah000
climber
now/here
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Jun 28, 2017 - 06:01pm PT
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^^^^
ok. happy to have a discussion... glad you were able to take a not-so-positive, but heartfelt response in stride...
my perspective is pretty simple.
you seem to think you know what the greater "human condition" is and therefore what "advances" it or not.
i don't claim to know that.
hence i've got no position to sit in judgement of alex... or you for that matter.
only person i've got a position on is myself.
and i know there have been times in my life where free soloing has furthered who i became as a human [to be specific it at times helped me see beauty, it gave me confidence, it helped me have faith and be in the flow, it helped me learn about all facets of myself, it helped me let go, but most importantly it was the only thing that sated an inexplicable drive to climb, climb, climb...] and ironically enough, even if it wasn't intentional, it in the process furthered my ability to make a contribution to other humans.
this doesn't mean that the above is true for any/every-one else. and it doesn't mean that what alex is doing is necessarily anything specific whether that be "good", "bad", "stupid", "smart", etc. and i don't claim that the only thing that is "meaningful" is to contribute to others, as you seem to do...
my point is i really have no idea regarding what alex or any other free soloist is doing or not doing, as i'm not living out alex or any other free soloist's life, with their spirit, with their mind, or with their heart.
and neither are you.
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Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
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Jun 28, 2017 - 06:05pm PT
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The difference is simple. Honnold chose to be there and by so doing he created a work of art. I'd argue that Valentino Rossi has done the same in his career in motorcycle racing.
Also, in response to some of kingtut's earlier comments: he may be a "medical professional" but if his understanding of human genetics and heritability had been that shallow in my classroom, he might not have become one.
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drF
Trad climber
usa
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Jun 28, 2017 - 06:14pm PT
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^^^^^
KTut is off the deep end....again
Comparing rock climbing to wars and world suffering?? WTF man get a grip
Alex is a badass rock climber(athlete).
It's his craft.
It's art.
He continues to hone his skills and execute new dimensions.
Many other human being adventurers are on the same path.
I think he'd be disturbed to read Tut's posts.
Displaced angst and insecurity at a high level.
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Jun 28, 2017 - 07:10pm PT
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I can't know but will just have to go with the thought that he really is that good that the moves all feel secure to him.
Although it's hard for most of us to imagine, I think this is correct. I don't think Alex perceived this climb as being particularly risky. As others have noted, he planned this climb for years and he and Tommy C. did a pretty fast ascent of the route just a couple days before the free solo. He had the route wired, marked key holds with chalk and was exceptionally well prepared. When interviewed afterwards, Alex said he could probably go back down and do the climb again right now. I don't think he was bragging--merely stating his confidence in being able to do the thing again.
Curt
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JelloFellow
climber
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Jun 29, 2017 - 10:24pm PT
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"Place your confidence in your dreams, not in your nightmares"
--Jeff Lowe, 2017 AAJ
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 30, 2017 - 01:09pm PT
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But maybe you could enlighten me as to how the human condition is enhanced by hard free solos?
Advancement of and the human spirit.
That was too easy.
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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we all bow down to this young God. But we're confused how to worship him. So much talk of Death..but without it where would we be. ?? Touching the Stone. And walking the line , Good. On ya. Mate.
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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I dont recall who said "There is a fine line between courageous and foolhardy." It may have been Reinhold Messner, first person to summit all the 8000 meter peaks without oxygen. He was asked during an interview with "The Alpinist," how he did it? His answer was not what many would have predicted. He said that he accomplished the feat by backing down. He stayed within his comfort zone. He lamented that many climbs he retreated from were summited successfully by "bolder" climbers. But they are dead now. Their tactic of going beyond their limits into uncharted territory, while sometimes successful, led to their eventual demise. None of them lasted long enough to tic off all the 8Ks without oxygen. But Messner's more conservative strategy of backing down when things were uncertain allowed him to survive. Instead of rolling the dice, he relyed on knowledge and skill and his own certainty and convictions. Many climbers send by rolling the dice. But their fate is uncertain. Eventually, everyones survival rate goes to zero. And for someone who climbs professionally to roll those dice is unprofessional. Eventually it leads to catastrophe. I think people like that are not professionals, they are daredevils, willing to take foolish chances in front of a camera. Weve seen all too often what eventually happens to daredevils. While it may satisfy ones purient interest to watch people do those things, its like rubbernecking at a car wreck. True professionalism is about knowing your limits and staying alive and in business another day. True professionals have responsibilities and families to care for. How can a moments cheap thrills compare to that?
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rbord
Boulder climber
atlanta
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How can a moment's cheap thrills compare to that?
I think there are many free soloists who have gotten quite good at the game, where the professional execution of that game includes staying alive. And they have different reasons for wanting or needing to stay alive - children, etc. But they also have a want or need to go out and solo.
And how do we and they resolve those conflicting needs? Especially today, I think there are people who we all rightfully admire who went out and made a mistake and died. What was the mistake?
If we like to, and often we do, we can say it was a momentary lapse in judgment, or a random error, a wisp of wind, or a breaking rock.
But we/they face that risk every time we climb. But knowing the risk, we choose to climb, we choose to face the risk, despite having a child, despite needing to not die. We could choose not to climb, but we don't choose that.
You, me, the most professional climber, the most psychologically wrong daredevil - we all make that choice. And sometimes we die for it, even the most professionally minded climbers with the most to live for.
The thing that we die for - is "it" a cheap thrill, or something else?
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WBraun
climber
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The Human Spirit was not advanced one iota by this event, it simply has no effect on the vast majority of humanity in any way.
Thousands of people are now aware of Honnoldsim.
They can now see the practical ways of transcending their own personal limitations.
They don't need to do anything dangerous to do this.
Never underestimate the power of the human spirit and every little bit helps ........
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rbord
Boulder climber
atlanta
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They can now see the practical way of transcending their own personal limitations.
I always get confused trying to get the math to work out.
Did Honnold transcend his own personal limitations? Seems to me like this was within his limitations - not beyond them.
If Honnold can do this, does that mean that I can?
What is it that changed - that has advanced? Are we now more conscious than we used to be? Did it used to be impossible for a human to solo El Cap, but now it's possible? Is our consciousness - our limitations - dependent on what humans before us have accomplished?
Were Alex's limitations - the ones that he transcended - imposed by what the humans before him have or have not accomplished? If his and our consciousness and limitations are part of us individually, what difference does what Alex did have on us?
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WBraun
climber
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I always get confused trying to get the math to work out.
You can't do gross materialism math for this such as 1+1=2
You have to transcendental math, 1+1=1 3+4= 1
Gross materialists live in a closed finite box who can't think their way out of a paper bag ......
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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What Jaybro said.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Alex mastered his game and you did too.. or will...
S...
Not directed at O.P.
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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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The Human Spirit was not advanced one iota by this event, it simply has no effect on the vast majority of humanity in any way.
Hi, are you the spokesperson for The Human Spirit?
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Loco de Pedra
Mountain climber
Around the World
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If you say human spirit have not advanced, it has not contributed to anything and was worthless, you are right.
If you say human spirit has advanced, it has greatly contributed to Human kind spirit and awareness at a global and cosmic level, by just being present, you are right.
I feel this feat (and many others) of commitment and presence, Buddha style, has had a immense positive impact on earth and beyond. Due to the newly created synapses, we will never be the same again 😉
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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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Don't denigrate the things you can't see or measure. They have more impact than we can grasp.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Ekat got it right on the first page. It is nobody's business what goes on in his head. You can't get any more private than what lies in your own mind.
So let's celebrate him. He is doing amazing things. We know how Bachar and Steck ended up. One little slip on what was for them easy ground.
I've also soloed many routes that I would have died on if I blew the crux, but all much easier, and of no consequence.
I loved soloing. At the time, I wasn't worried, because generally I understood every move of those routes. I was exposed to soloing on my first trip to a climbing area that had real climbers. We almost all did it to some degree or other.
Honnold is definitely the King Bee of soloing. He looks to be in good control, but I doubt he will solo El Cap again.
Just the idea of soloing El Cap is so alien to me. It boggled my mind when the Nose went free. Climbing progresses, and Honnold is just part of that progression. Can you all remember what it was like to sit in the meadow and look at El Cap for the first time? It is an amazing and beautiful cliff. It is so big and steep that it seems like a dream. Actually climbing it seems crazy..until you do an El Cap route.
But what goes on in his mind is nobody's business. Viva Honnold!
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AE
climber
Boulder, CO
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Jul 18, 2017 - 01:14pm PT
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As the inevitable aftershocks of Alex's unprecedented free solo of El Cap continue to send reverberations in wider and wider circles beyond the small epicenter of rock climbing, opinions run fast and free-ranging - veneration, condemnation, idolizing, idol smashing, premature eulogizing, hero worship and more, running the full gamut of judgements positive and negative. For the climbers who praise him to the heavens, elevating his prowess and making a meme of his name, I say, beware of a collective hubris. Ragging and bragging come from the same motivation - to elevate oneself at the expense of others. Projecting personal ideations onto an Alex avatar objectifies the man, diminishes his personality and human achievements beyond climbing, and creates an inappropriate, inflated concept of perfection and power that is a stereotypic, one-dimensional cutout we mortals love to stand behind, peering out through the eyeholes for a selfie.
There is too much BS in the notion that any new level of athletic excellence becomes an elevation of the human spirit, whatever the F that means. If doing anything solely because you want to do it is heroic, every hedonist becomes a hero. Rugged individualism devoted to purely self-satisfying pursuits is hedonism in a flannel shirt. What Alex did was intensely personal, despite the media coverage, so it is not appropriate for the rest of us to look for some benefit for us or the world. I am so glad he did not proclaim his justification via some religious philosophy, political screed, nor patriotic manifesto.
The climbing community has an ambiguous relationship to soloists, admiring the act but judgmental about the motivations, worried about repercussions from the outside world, especially if a well-publicized climb goes wrong. We also mistakenly equate the art with the artist, the act with the actor. Thriving PR industries exist to ascribe mythologies to shore up lackluster personalities who just happen to create great works. To be totally candid, there have been other soloists in the past, here and abroad, who might have attempted such a project, and whether successful or not, the climbing community would have judged their efforts very differently.
It is a measure of the type of person Alex has revealed, that so many express concern about his future well-being. One refreshing thing about Alex appears to be his own self-awareness with regard to the place his achievements hold in the scheme of things. He gets the paradox, the self-indulgent side of his focus, is honest and open to discussing it all. He seems to be capable of differentiating the "I do this" from the "I am this." He defines his soloing; his soloing does not define him. Nor should the rest of us.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jul 18, 2017 - 05:40pm PT
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Very well-written and thoughtful post, AE.
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GusLevy
Social climber
La Canada
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Jul 20, 2017 - 03:09pm PT
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"Jun 6, 2017 - 12:29pm PT
the only way a runner could possibly compare would be if they were in a 4 hour race with the best runners in the world and everyone except for the winner gets killed in the end. The thing that seperates this achievemnent from all the ball players, runners, paddelers, bikers and skiers etc in the world is the fact that the athlete will die with any mistake made in the 4 hours to complete the task and the fact that there is only one person in the world that can do this."
"Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth." - Mike Tyson
I was introduced to Honnold like many non-climbers via the 60 Minutes episode a few years ago. In the past, I had casually followed the various climbing and alpine exploits sporadically but never felt a visceral attachment - it is to me a pocket of the sports world like cycling, kayaking, surfing, etc. that was an athletic hobby for those who weren't interested in the popular ball sports.
Watching Honnold free-solo Half Dome, however, was both visceral, fascinating and inspiring. The sports that I have played a lot have been baseball, tennis, golf and running: With golf in particular, it is easy to appreciate the mental side of sports far more than the athletic aspect of sports. For those who seriously participate in a sport, it becomes obvious that the drama and spectacle of sport lies far more in the champion golfer's ability to sink a winding 6-ft putt to tie on the last hole rather than watching the big golfer who pounds his drive 350 yards on the first hole. In each sport, there will always be the bigger, faster, stronger and more nimble athlete just around the proverbial corner: True greatness is therefore measured in the long run by those who are able to stand out for their displays of a champion's mental strength and heart.
Honnold is the most inspiring athlete in the world for me at this time. His ability to control his mind is literally singular at the present time. To be able to sustain such precise mental focus for the extended amount of time that he does when confronting death as his penalty is literally mind-boggling: Basketball players may have to make two free throws to tie at the end of the game, the golfer needs to make the putt to tie at the last hole, the pitcher has to throw the strikes in the last inning of the World Series, etc...these are the pressure packed moments that we play and watch sports for because it shows the mental strength of the athletes. 90% free throw shooters turn into 60% free throw shooters at the end of big games for a reason - nerves control us human beings.
I have read the various articles and stories in these past few weeks since Honnold's amazing feat. I have read about how Ondras, Megos, etc. can do this or that technical move that Honnold may not be able to. Well, tomorrow or the next day, there will always be a new guy (or gal) who will push the technical aspects of climbing. Physical evolution of our species is fairly constant. Furthermore, the world of sports is filled with amazing physical achievements, to me the greatest climbers with rope are akin to watching the Olympic gymnasts on the ring apparatus: Fairly neat stuff to watch but it merely reveals a lot of technical physical training was involved. What we do know is that if one were to place Ondras in the middle of El Capitan without ropes, however, that he would assuredly be dead before the sun went down because the introduction of great physical harm will have an amazing effect upon one's physical abilities.
Anyway, thanks all for this great outlet, the whole Honnold story has been truly fun to follow.
P.S. For those alpinists out there...read about the story of Albert Johnson being chased by the RCMP in the early 20th Century. That may be the most incredible alpine feat of all time!
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rbord
Boulder climber
atlanta
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Jul 20, 2017 - 05:19pm PT
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Nor should the rest of us.
Should is a funny word, and IMHO, we're more defined by it than it is defined by us.
That humans are influenced by other people's beliefs, behaviors, accomplishments - IMHO, should is as should does, and the way should does is that we ARE affected by those things.
Advances in climbing haven't been the result of (only) physical/technical/equipment advances. We see what other people do, what they've done, what they believe they can do, and we're affected by it - it affects our beliefs about what we can do, and those beliefs then affect our behaviors. 5.15? For an inferior climber "girl"? Sure, if you give it enough belief (and maybe stop thinking of them as girls).
Alex didn't start up El Cap ropeless without a belief that he could do it. And his belief that he could do it didn't come out of thin air. It came, in part, from the beliefs and behaviors of people that came before him. Just like his belief and behavior contributes to the beliefs and behaviors of the people who will come after him. IMHO, exactly the way that it should.
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drF
Trad climber
usa
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Jul 20, 2017 - 05:29pm PT
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Alex Honnold did the Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim in the Grand Canyon in two big steps.
Alex Honnold hand-jammed the entire Monster Off-Width on Freerider.
Alex Honnold has paddled a whitewater kayak from the summit of Mt. Everest to Base Camp, in winter.
Alex Honnold correctly predicted 100 percent of his NCAA Tournament bracket in last year’s office pool.
Alex Honnold eats nine servings of fruits and vegetables per day.
Alex Honnold understood Ulysses the first time he read it.
Alex Honnold has never had a problem connecting to the wifi network anywhere.
Alex Honnold got the new Jay-Z album two weeks before it came out.
Alex Honnold onsighted your project.
Alex Honnold’s van is zero-emission because it runs on the world’s collective awe at his climbing achievements.
Alex Honnold set an FKT running the John Muir Trail barefoot while only eating plants he found along the trail. And he high-fived a black bear.
Alex Honnold used all his vacation days last year.
Alex Honnold surfed Teahupoo on the back of a tiger shark.
Your dog is normally quite skittish around new people, but took immediately to Alex Honnold.
Alex Honnold is secretly the creator of many of your favorite memes.
Alex Honnold completed an Ironman Triathlon riding a razor scooter for the bike segment.
Alex Honnold’s old climbing shoes smell like lilacs.
Alex Honnold is actually also Jimmy Chin, and photographed himself free soloing Freerider.
Alex Honnold parallel parked his van in a very tight space yesterday without even slightly bumping the cars in front of and behind him.
Your cousin’s friend met Alex Honnold at an event a couple years ago and Alex Honnold was very friendly to him.
You failed to mention
Alex Honnold cut Chuck Norris in half. Top to bottom, with a dyno ring-lock maneuver.
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 20, 2017 - 07:47pm PT
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At some time in the evolution of his soul, Alex Honnold will use the focus and fearlessness he developed to seek complete freedom, or enlightenment. This in turn always has a ripple effect for others seeking enlightenment. That is the most lasting aspect of his current feat of athleticism.
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