RIP, Ueli Steck

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crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 30, 2017 - 06:21am PT
Very sad news from Nepal...

http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-39761904

30. April 2017. Information to the media

Ueli Steck deadly injured

Ueli Steck was killed while trying to climb Mount Everest and the Lhotse. His family has learned of his death today. The exact circumstances are currently unknown. The family is infinitely sad and asks the media builders to refrain from speculation about the circumstances of his death due to respect for Ueli.

As soon as there are reliable findings on the causes of Uelis Steck's death, the media will be informed. The family asks the media for understanding that they will not provide any further information at the time. For further inquiries:

Andreas ban tel
Speaker from ueli steck
Ban Tel & partner AG
andreas.bantel@bantel.cd
F

climber
away from the ground
Apr 30, 2017 - 06:25am PT
The flame that burns Twice as bright burns half as long.
-Lao Tzu
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 30, 2017 - 06:32am PT
Sad sad day..
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Apr 30, 2017 - 06:34am PT
Appears to have been a solo climbing fall...

https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/swiss-machine-ueli-steck-killed-in-mt-everest-accident/

RIP Ueli
norm larson

climber
wilson, wyoming
Apr 30, 2017 - 06:49am PT
Terrible news. Far to young. Really sad.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 30, 2017 - 07:01am PT
Alpine climbing, when the limits are pushed, is a harsh world where survival becomes uncertain.
I ran into Uelii and his wife last fall at Coyne Crack in Indian Creek. He had just led it and was getting ready to belay his wife. We had last met a few years earlier in Chamonix when I was on a jury that awarded him the Piolet d'Or. He was enjoying the desert sun....how different from the alipne world where he excelled.
He will be missed.
Tom Patterson

Trad climber
Seattle
Apr 30, 2017 - 07:03am PT
A stunningly sad development.
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2017 - 07:19am PT

RIP, Ueli. You were one of a kind.

Dang ... :-(
i-b-goB

Social climber
Wise Acres
Apr 30, 2017 - 07:39am PT

"Quick Day from Basecamp up to 7000m and back. I love it its such a great place here. I still believe in active acclimatization. This is way more effective then spending Nights up in the Altitude!"

...Unbelievably bold, to say the least, RIP Ueli Steck!
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2017 - 07:46am PT
More details..
(CNN)Swiss climber Ueli Steck was killed Sunday in an accident near Mount Everest, Nepal's tourism department said.

The 40-year-old died when he slipped from a slope and fell into a crevasse at around 6,600 meters on Mount Nuptse, expedition organizers told CNN.
His body has been recovered and airlifted to Lukla, where the nearest airport to Mount Everest is located, Dinesh Bhattarai, of the Nepal Tourism Department said.
steve shea

climber
Apr 30, 2017 - 07:48am PT
RIP. What a loss.
WBraun

climber
Apr 30, 2017 - 07:50am PT
I still believe in active acclimatization

Yes .... this was already well known in rock climbing.

The body becomes acclimatized to the task, where everything one does there becomes normal ....

He was superman ...... and he'll be back.

The Nepalese know this, the westerners all scoff at this due to their brainwashed cave man consciousness .....
myrddinmuse

Trad climber
Wales
Apr 30, 2017 - 07:57am PT
Terrible, terrible news. An inspiration to so many!

The greatest shame will now be the "Wasn't if, it was when" brigade coming out of the woodwork again.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Apr 30, 2017 - 08:04am PT
Shitty.



According to this excellent piece, Ueli counted himself among the 'when not if' lot. See the last paragraph here:

http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2013/06/03/the-manic-mountain

"Steck knows that to live a long time you need to quit. Before Everest, he’d figured he had two more years in him of pushing the limits. Now he wondered whether he had less. He would always climb mountains; it was a part of his personality, and his marriage. But the professional part of it, the Swiss Machine, had gone a little sour. A week after Steck got home, Alexey Bolotov, the partner of Denis Urobko, was killed in a fall. A rope broke. They found his body on the Khumbu Glacier. He was fifty and had quit his job to devote himself to climbing. There’s a part of Steck that wonders if the incident at Camp 2 wasn’t in some respects a blessing. “Maybe there might have been a big accident,” he said. “There are a lot of things in climbing that you can’t control.” ♦


The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
Apr 30, 2017 - 08:33am PT
What a tragic loss! Condolences to his family and friends. His achievement will continue to inspire me.
Levy

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Apr 30, 2017 - 08:40am PT
Terrible news to wake up and hear this.

RIP Uli.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Apr 30, 2017 - 08:45am PT
I am so shook up by this news. I somehow thought he would be one of the ones who gets to live to a ripe old age. His skill level was so great.

I had a chance to meet him briefly before one of his slide shows. What a nice and gracious man, with a good humor and liveliness. His love of the mountains and of the challenges they brought was so apparent.

What a terrible loss to the mountaineering community and to his family and friends.
drapnea

Trad climber
Wenatchee, WA
Apr 30, 2017 - 08:52am PT
Ueli Steck pushed the sport to a new level with his physical and mental endurance. He inspired countless people and is a legend that will be missed. R.I.P.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Apr 30, 2017 - 09:08am PT
http://gamesvideoreview.net/watch/hlJwP2lXja4

Interviewed Ueli for a series we were doing for Terrex Outdoor. He had some huge experiences. Condolences to all.
Guck

Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 30, 2017 - 09:15am PT
Sorry to see you gone. You were such an inspiration for all of us. I will miss you.

Phillip
brotherbbock

climber
Alta Loma, CA
Apr 30, 2017 - 09:26am PT
RIP Ueli....He is a true badass.



Extra points for Mr. Duck being able to bash westerners in an RIP thread.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Apr 30, 2017 - 09:45am PT
Goodbye Ueli . . . your infectious enthusiasm for the alpine was extraordinary, the look in your eyes transcendent and your motivation otherworldly.

Best to the family and friends of Ueli Steck.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 30, 2017 - 09:58am PT

To repeat what F said:

The flame that burns Twice as bright burns half as long. RIP!
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Redwood City
Apr 30, 2017 - 10:08am PT
Rest easy Ueli, you were admired from afar...
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 30, 2017 - 10:37am PT

RIP, Ueli. An inspiration to all. . .
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Apr 30, 2017 - 10:54am PT
One of the best Alpinists of this generation has died. This is very sad.

As Donini pointed out, and I myself have said here many times, Alpine Climbing, even in the alps, is super dangerous compared to rock climbing.

Today's sport climbers have problems transitioning to "trad" routes that are far below their level, something many of us find baffling. If simple trad routes seem hairy, which we all know is a simple problem of perception (trad climbing isn't dangerous at all) then the danger found in the mountains is in another universe of danger. Sport climbing is at one end of the danger spectrum, and climbing in the big mountains is at the other end. I was amazed at how many close calls I had in Chamonix. I couldn't see how you could do it for your whole life and survive. It was the first place that I made friends who died in just a few months. Then, of course, you have the really huge mountains, which make Chamonix look tame.

When in the mountains, you deal with things such as regular rock falls, calving seracs, and that rock or seracdoesn't care who you are. Ueli's speed solo's of the Eiger blew my mind, because that thing is huge. Almost like 2 El Caps in height. He was obviously tremendously gifted as a pure athlete to solo it in less than 3 hours.

This is very sad, but I still feel that assuming that sort of risk for an entire lifetime is almost impossible to pull off. If anyone could, he was among that small group.

This is a huge loss for all of us, whether we had met him or not. Just knowing that he was out there, doing what he was doing, set a high bar that will be hard to replace in this generation.

I guess that I'm trying to say that he was one of those guys who climbed at such a level that he was more of the next generation of super climbers. A rare bird. Out of time, almost futuristic.

Mimi

climber
Apr 30, 2017 - 11:11am PT
So very sad. He was such an amazing guy. Punch in the gut reading this today.

Steve and I saw him speak last September and hearing him talk about his climbing was so inspiring. So humble and witty. He mentioned doing the Everest-Lhotse entrainment, one of the few remaining prizes. We had every confidence that he would succeed. He packed so much into such a young life.

Sincere condolences to his many friends and loved ones.
Majid_S

Mountain climber
Karkoekstan, Former USSR
Apr 30, 2017 - 11:21am PT
He was one good high speed alpine climber
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 30, 2017 - 11:48am PT
Horrible. Saw his presentation in SF a few years ago and he was a very nice guy. Took photos with anyone who wanted to after, answered questions. Top notch guy in every way. At least appeared that way. RIP.
E

Ice climber
mogollon rim
Apr 30, 2017 - 11:56am PT
f*#k I THOUGHT THAT GUY WOULD LIVE FOREVER
RIP
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 30, 2017 - 12:21pm PT
hey there say, all...

just saw this, too, elsewhere... :(

prayers and condolences, for his family and loved ones,
at this hard sad time...

:(
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Apr 30, 2017 - 01:36pm PT
Word has it he climbed unroped into the clouds, and sprinted beyond.

Rest, if you can, in peace.
Double D

climber
Apr 30, 2017 - 01:55pm PT
RIP;to an amazing athlete. My sincere condolences to Uli's family & friends.

[Click to View YouTube Video]
rbord

Boulder climber
atlanta
Apr 30, 2017 - 02:32pm PT
Doing what he did in the face of the risks that he faced is both what we admired about him and what killed him. Nicely done!

My condolences to those who grieve.
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Apr 30, 2017 - 03:16pm PT
This news su--cks!
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Apr 30, 2017 - 03:30pm PT
I just heard about this. Such a loss! I hope this is not a bad omen for another dark season on Everest. The Sherpas who retrieved his body were devastated. RIP.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Apr 30, 2017 - 06:14pm PT
Just viewed a wonderful video on FB by Aaren Adventures who interviewed Ueli as he unveiled his great goal to link up the two climbs which had never been done linked up before. Thanks for posting it Kathy D.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 30, 2017 - 06:17pm PT
Farewell Ueli. You broke through boundaries. Your climbing skills were astonishing. You lived well. An inspiration to climbers of all skills and aspirations.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2017 - 06:31pm PT
Here's the video Lynn referenced...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Apr 30, 2017 - 06:51pm PT
Remembrances from many climbers: https://www.outsideonline.com/2179186/world-reacts-ueli-stecks-death
chainsaw

Trad climber
CA
Apr 30, 2017 - 06:52pm PT
I have never done real alpine climbing. But I remember when my trad parner started insisting that we go it "alpine style" (go light.) He referred to Steck's style and success. We did easier routes, if that ment we could scamper up fast and just have enough to get by. This philosophy made the climbing experience way more fun than dragging tons of stuff around, up, down, blah. We got in way more climbing, enjoyed it more and felt liberated by not carrying so much. Steck's style was inspiring to us.
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Apr 30, 2017 - 08:32pm PT
So sad to see him leave. I've read many tales of those on the extreme edges. It takes so many. I admire Bonatti for stepping back from that edge, but it's addictive. And it hurts when it pushes back.

BAd
zBrown

Ice climber
Apr 30, 2017 - 08:33pm PT
No Steck in the mud, this man provides an excellent role model.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Apr 30, 2017 - 09:24pm PT
Put a cloud over my climbing after reading the news this morning. Condolences.

One of the best Alpinists of this generation has died. This is very sad.

Sadly, generation after generation, this seems the way of alpine climbing for as long as I've been climbing.
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
Apr 30, 2017 - 09:52pm PT
Sad, sad news.

I've watched thru the years as he's ticked off one incredible task after another.
Such an accomplished athlete.

My condolences to all of his family, his many, many friends and admirers around the world.

RIP Ueli.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Apr 30, 2017 - 11:33pm PT
The Alps was one thing, but the Himalayas was quite another proposition.
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
Apr 30, 2017 - 11:52pm PT
What a Bright Flame!!!
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
May 1, 2017 - 07:13am PT
RIP Ueli, what an astonishing athlete and human being. We are all greater for his having passed our way, and all grieve for his passing.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
May 1, 2017 - 07:57am PT
rwedgee

Ice climber
CA
May 1, 2017 - 08:24am PT
What a tragic loss.
I can't help but think the Sherpas had something to do with it if you saw their last attempt.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAaVK8eJsfo
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
May 1, 2017 - 08:53am PT
RIP Ueli Steck. An amazing climber, and from all that I heard, a really nice guy. Much more important in my book, making it all the more sad. Unfortunately, climbing is dangerous, period. We all know VERY skilled and talented climbers that have died in ALL venues of climbing. Each time it seems like a huge surprise.....sadly, it's just one of the risks. My heart goes out to his wife and family who now will have to move forward without him in their lives.
Pam
Stewart Johnson

Mountain climber
lake forest
May 1, 2017 - 08:59am PT
Sad day.
Climb hard in the memory of a great man.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
May 1, 2017 - 09:19am PT
RIP
Eiger solo speed record video
https://vimeo.com/91399676
PolishClimber

Trad climber
May 1, 2017 - 10:02am PT
I was lucky enough to meet Ueli Steck on one occasion. I had seen plenty of short clips of him speaking about climbing, but in person his drive and laser-like focus were even more apparent. You could feel his motivation and passion coming through his voice and body language like a live-wire, and it was certainly infectious and inspiring. To cap it all off, and make it even more difficult to accept, he was one of the most humble and kind climbers I have ever met, professional or otherwise. His enthusiasm will remain with me until my end, and I'm thankful for the gift of inspiration he provided the entire community.
John Ely

Trad climber
DC
May 1, 2017 - 11:04am PT
Lao Tzu, ibid. And then of greatest solo performances of all time, this one on Annapurna is up there with the most impressive imo....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdLG64rEChQ
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
May 1, 2017 - 11:17am PT
Very sad to read, once again.

But WTF was that post by another nickname on the previous page?
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
May 1, 2017 - 12:14pm PT
Family members are arriving in Kathmandu. It seems funeral rites will be performed in Nepal, probably at the Sherpa monastery of Tengboche.

https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/kith-kin-arriving-switzerland-receive-ueli-stecks-body/
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
May 1, 2017 - 04:59pm PT
that speed stuff to try and break a record seems risky as heck........
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
May 1, 2017 - 08:00pm PT
A NY Times Opinion piece:

https://www.nytimes.com/2017/05/01/opinion/ueli-steck-falling-off-the-edge.html?_r=0

And Steve House commentary on Ueli Steck (NPR interview)

https://knpr.org/npr/2017-05/remembering-famed-mountain-climber-ueli-steck
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
May 1, 2017 - 08:11pm PT
I admire Bonatti for stepping back from that edge, but it's addictive.

Bonatti did a solo new route on the north face of the Matterhorn in winter. In the world of alpinism there is no end to how far one can push it. Good on you BAd for bringing this up
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
May 1, 2017 - 11:16pm PT
Such an accomplished human being.
This was very sad news indeed.
My heartfelt condolences go out to Ueli's family and friends.
renzo

Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
May 2, 2017 - 06:29am PT
My heart is broken.
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
May 2, 2017 - 07:07am PT
Damn....sad
Watermann2

Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
May 2, 2017 - 07:11am PT
Good morning to All,

The GREAT man has left us!!! GREAT mountaineer, (remember only the masterpiece Of The masterpieces, that is the south wall of ANNAPURNA (route BEGHIN_LAFAILLE) the GREATEST masterpiece of all times of mountaineering SOLITARY HIMALAYANS (there is nothing to compare To this incredible climbing) But this legendary mountaineer, full of records, was also a GREAT and humble MAN, and all the people who were lucky enough to talk to him said to him: I contacted him by mail for my request, the A great man quickly answered me, explaining to me all I needed to do, and I kept her mail in her heart. A GREAT MAN! Now he has become star dust and looks at the immensity of the universe !!!! !
GREAT MAN RIP IN PEACE



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Death is nothing at all.
I have only slipped away to the next room.
I am I and you are you.
Whatever we were to each other,
That, we still are.

Call me by my old familiar name.
Speak to me in the easy way
which you always used.
Put no difference into your tone.
Wear no forced air of solemnity or sorrow.

Laugh as we always laughed
at the little jokes we enjoyed together.
Play, smile, think of me. Pray for me.
Let my name be ever the household word
that it always was.
Let it be spoken without effect.
Without the trace of a shadow on it.

Life means all that it ever meant.
It is the same that it ever was.
There is absolute unbroken continuity.
Why should I be out of mind
because I am out of sight?

I am but waiting for you.
For an interval.
Somewhere. Very near.
Just around the corner.

All is well.

Nothing is past; nothing is lost. One brief moment and all will be as it was before only better, infinitely happier and forever we will all be one together with Christ.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


The GREETINGS of the mountaineering WORLD at UELI STECK.


Simone Moro: "I had just set foot in the Kangchenjunga base camp after two nights spent on the mountain for acclimatization and preparation.

It was a nice day, I was fine, I wanted to enjoy a freshly brewed drink, one of which I had done to bring up to 5550 meters.
And instead of a fresh drink, I was waiting for a cold, cold shower.
"Ueli died a few minutes ago, fell off the Nuptse as he trained. I think it's right you know it. I'm so sorry. "Arjun, a young Indian boy in love with the eight thousand and present at the base camp, gave me the tragic news.

I have lost so many, many friends in the mountains, from the Himalayas to the Andes to the Alps. It is neither a price to pay nor a tribute, or a sacrifice to bear for those who love verticality. It is simply what happens to those who decide to live instead of surviving, to those who surround themselves with intensely live people, spending and searching for every single second of life, loving the action and feelings that bloom lush from every moment of this fullness.

There is no noble death and misery, but there is a life lived by protagonists and one at the orders of others or their own fears. Ueli did not seek consensus or understanding, he just tried to do things well, according to his aspirations and motivations.
He had the "defect" of being damned ahead, perhaps too far ahead, and for this reason few of his colleagues, instead of getting rid of their hat, were willing to raise suspicions, doubts.

I had known him for a long time, we attended quietly, in meetings sometimes limited to coffee and a few hours of talk at my table, while at other times we added a few hours' work and training, during his regular visits to a sponsor Italians who made it to Bergamo.

We also tried to make a shipment together and plan our rope business. But reality and fate all wanted to end up being destroyed in a high lynx lynx, on Everest, with some sherpa shadowed inexplicably by their ancient and peaceful way of understanding life and reacting to everyday life.

Now, some of the commemorations, memories, beatifications, Ueli Steck's incredible climbs and gestures will be opened, partly understandable.
Dead, who knows why, everybody wants to beatify you, tell you that you were really good. I have always loved expressing my appreciation alive to the living. Receive a handshake and thanks a lot more sense to human relationships.

He was a champion, in sports and in life. And the luck of having lived with him pieces of his existence and of his design, I consider him the treasure that life has given me and which I now want to silently guard, like the pain of having lost it momentarily.

Hi Ueli, we'll see you sooner or later, sure! "

Tenji Sherpa, who with Ueli would have to try the crossing: "Steck had a heart of gold. He had remarkable records, but he was above all a generous man with a gentle soul. "

Reinhold Messner at the Trento Film Festival: "Ueli Steck was undoubtedly one of the strongest mountaineers of the last two decades. It's a very dramatic, tragic fact because Steck was too old to make mistakes. Steck had so much experience: he had made great climbs and in all the mountains of the world. He was undoubtedly one of the strongest mountaineers of the last two decades. Maybe it was under pressure but I can not know this. It was one of the greatest challenges of mountaineering, the first chaining Everest and Lhotse. This route was thought by many but no one really had a chance. Steck, according to me, with his speed, experience and very light material, he could theoretically do the business. "

Kilian Jornet from Cho Oyu: "Thank Ueli for being a mentor and a constant source of inspiration. Any climb with you was a lesson to further improve next to a mountain lover. My thinking is to Ueli's family and friends.


She waved as she climbed the south wall of Shisha Pagma. Photo @ David Gottler
David Gottler, from the south wall of Shisha Pangma: "Yesterday I knew I had lost a good friend. A friend with whom I was in this same place a year ago, with the same dream I have now. I lie and my thoughts go to all the moments we have shared together in the last two years. We had so many plans for the future. Now I miss so much my friend.
I am grateful that you could share your journey for a short while and learn so much from you!
Now you will follow us here. At each step we will concentrate on what you have lived and loved; In the same way that we love him. Goodbye My friend!"

Alex Txikon: "It's impossible not to be sad. You are gone and that vacuum is so painful, but your memory will make us smile forever. We will remember you forever, not so much for what you did, but for what you were. Avev

Alex Txikon: "It's impossible not to be sad. You are gone and that vacuum is so painful, but your memory will make us smile forever. We will remember you forever, not so much for what you did, but for what you were. You had such a big heart that there was space for all the mountains in this world. We can only admire. Goodbye My friend…"


Photo @ Mario Vielmo
Mario Vielmo, also at Everest Base Camp: "Today as we were leaving Fall Fall, a Sherpa approaches me and tells me of a strange accident on the Nuptse" An alpinist flew down. " At the base we have the confirmation. Ueli Steck crashed.
The sad news is upsetting us all, tonight the fog surrounds the field surrounded by a surreal silence. The mountain weeps, the mountaineering world is mourning. One of the strongest mountaineers in the world has gone. A mountaineer I felt very much, which strangely I had known only two days ago on the fall, as he went on a racing course. We stopped to compliment and two shots with the myth of mountaineering. Hi Ueli ... continues to amaze us and climb ever faster in paradise. "

Marco Confortola, from Dahulagiri: "We learned the news of the death of one of the strongest mountain climbers the strong and sympathetic Ueli Steck. I feel like writing that all those present at the base camp of Dhaulagiri are close to their wife and parents in the pain of Ueli's sore loss. Your wondrous eyes, your sympathy and your desire to make us dream will never abandon us ... you will miss us. "

Phil Powers, CEO of the American Alpine Club: "Ueli was one of those rare people who changed our ideas about what's possible in the mountains. Its fast ascents of huge walls inspired us all. But I will remember Ueli above all as a kind and generous man with whom I was honored to share a rope. I'm terribly sorry for my wife and family. "

Alex Honnold, telephoneed by the Outside magazine: "Last summer I was in Switzerland and we climbed together. It seemed like we were having dinner at her home. We ate some rice and vegetable dishes. The fondue was not for him. It is right to call it one of the most advanced climbers and certainly one of the fastest. He was the first to bring an Olympic-style workout in this sport. I think what has prevented me from spending more time with her dedication to training. Climbing is a lifestyle, but he was one of the first to make it systematically a sport of another level. Ueli was at such a high and so disciplined level. If we had climbed together, we would have climbed all hard, but then he would have gone for a very long ride. Climbing was just a small part of his day. He was the first to tell you he was not the most talented climber, but he worked hard to become the climber he wanted to be. Ueli was so solid. I'm starting to understand, however, that it does not matter. Like Dean Potter. There is always a quota of chance. "

Edurne Pasaban, who recently gave birth to a child: "While you bring a baby to the world, you lose a friend on the other side of the world. Ueli has been a point of reference for all mountaineering

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Do not cry on my grave ...

Do not cry on my grave I'm not here.
I'm not sleeping. I am a thousand winds blowing;
I'm the glitter of diamond on the snow
It is the sun shining on ripe wheat
It is the mild autumn rain.
When you wake up in the morning calm

I'm the quick rustling of birds flying in the circle
I'm the tender star that shines in the night
Do not cry on my grave I'm not there

Singing the Navajo Indians
chic

Trad climber
chicago
May 2, 2017 - 09:10am PT
deathly winds blow;
we're all leaves.

autumn is the worst.
time for leaves.

crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2017 - 07:13pm PT
A nice tribute..
http://willgadd.com/goodbye-ueli/
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
May 2, 2017 - 07:22pm PT
From Will's tribute above:

...self-forged human...

Say whatever else you want about a person, but this I admire as it's a crucible of sorts we all face every single morning on waking.
nah000

climber
no/w/here
May 2, 2017 - 07:51pm PT
i found steve house's raw words, from the end of the interview above, to be so deeply personal and in the process profound, that i felt the urge to take the time to type them up:

despite the fact that we have these incredibly tragic outcomes sometimes… i think that it’s worth remembering that their quest that they were on, that ueli was on, was an incredibly beautiful and pure quest for his better self… and that’s what the world is missing today, we’re missing those stories that he was going to bring back to us, that he was going to tell us over the next forty or fifty years of his life… what he found, what he learned about himself, what he learned about his humanity, what he learned about his humility, his ego. he was a man that was under an intense amount of… in the last years he had become so well known… he was under… he was pursuing this incredibly dangerous and risky thing yet he was under a lot of public scrutiny...

he was under a lot of pressure.

i think we humans, we create this world around ourselves that we believe we’re in control of and in climbing, mountains especially, that certainty doesn’t exist… the environment is just too complex, too dynamic to know what’s going to happen… and eventually we have to understand as climbers that this can happen to us… there’s no escaping that. i’ve lost far too many friends and ueli did as well, he was fully aware that that risk existed. but i think that no matter how hard these lessons are… this is the real world… and i think what we rightly need to do is respect and even enshrine and idolize these people that gave their lives to teach us these things, that teach us these lessons in a really hard way… but we need to remember them, we need to tell their stories, we need to laugh about them.

because they’re still here… and this is the real world, the real world is actually imperfect and at times dangerous... and that’s where we all live.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
May 3, 2017 - 09:52am PT
Alpine climbing, when the limits are pushed, is a harsh world where survival becomes uncertain.
I ran into Uelii and his wife last fall at Coyne Crack in Indian Creek. He had just led it and was getting ready to belay his wife. We had last met a few years earlier in Chamonix when I was on a jury that awarded him the Piolet d'Or. He was enjoying the desert sun....how different from the alipne world where he excelled.
He will be missed.

That was a really fun day. Enjoyed the hell out of meeting Ueli and getting to see him climb.

crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2017 - 07:19am PT
An update from Ueli's family on the web...
Ueli Steck buried in the closest family

Zurich / Kathmandu, 4. May 2017-the family of ueli steck on Thursday morning (local time) at the monastery teng boche in Kathmandu (Nepal) in the context of a formal and of ueli bid farewell. How it corresponds to the nepalese tradition, the deceased was in a nearly three-hour impressive ceremony cremated.

At the funeral service was attended by ueli steck wife Nicole, as well as the parents of ueli and Nicole. It was the wish of the family, this abdication in closest with their families to be able to hold. The family felt the ceremony a very solemn and impressive, than to be sad and at the same time. It will be about three hours the abdication remember give thanks. The Monks of the monastery teng boche speaks your heartfelt thanks for the hospitality and the dignified way of adoption of ueli.

Some of the ashes is the family in memory of ueli in Switzerland a ride.

The family is planning to further, for the friends, acquaintances and colleagues of ueli as well as for the general public a farewell party in Switzerland. Date and place of this celebration are currently open. On the details of this celebration is the family to be informed in due course.

For further background information on the accident of ueli steck

Ueli Steck Rose on 29. April 2017-EVEREST BASE CAMP TO CAMP 2 to about 6400 meters above sea level. His initial plan was to the next day to further acclimatization on the Everest-normal route to almost 8000 Meter High South to saddle up yet again on the same day to return to camp 2.

From The Camp 2 from asked ueli notes that the conditions in the nuptse-wall been ideal, which is why he is still in the evening, decided on the following day to south not saddle, but for the nuptse.

On 30. April 2017 broke ueli at 04.30 pm. Together with the French Yannick Graziani he crossed the rift to achieve glacier. Then made himself graziani alone in the Everest-normal route in the direction of camp 3, while in the ueli lhotse-flank. Ueli's accident occurred at about 7600 metres around 09.00 pm (local time). His body was eventually by the Italian helicopter pilots maurizio foll ini at an altitude of about 6600 metres to the hospital and transferred from Kathmandu. The crash is still unknown.

The family has for the friends and acquaintances of ueli a book: http://www.uelisteck.ch/de/rip.html

For Inquiries:
Andreas ban tel speaker from ueli steck ban tel & Partner Ag Othmar Street 8 CH-8008 Zurich Andreas.Bantel@Bantel.Ch
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 14, 2017 - 09:28am PT
This week's The Economist has Uelie's obit! Proud!
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