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gwab72
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 25, 2017 - 06:56pm PT
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You might imagine that everyone in my life (save for my partner) obviously is in "I told you so" mode. The general assumption basically from everyone is "ok, so you tried it and it's as dangerous as everyone says, so of course you won't go back, right?"
Well, wrong. I think. I loved every second of climbing. I had finally got over my anxiety about being in the crowded gym. had gone by myself for two days in a row and had just sent the easiest boulder path, several times in a row, on a pretty short wall. On the last go, I down climbed a couple holds, then I hung off a hold and dropped, which I'd been doing all day. Landed wrong and heard my ankle break. Three pops. Trimalleolar fracture. Surgery was one week later and I'm one week out from surgery. I've just got a hangboard and have been doing upper body training.
I'm deeply afraid that I'll never be able to walk well again- much less run, which I also enjoy a lot.
I would love to hear some success stories, and any stories you have about going back at it after an injury like this. Will I ever boulder again? I'd just decided that day that I like bouldering better than the auto belay wall (I had not done the top rope wall due to having no partner) and I was stoked to learn more techniques for bouldering.
My partner (in crime) got me a harness and a belay device, and set an anchor in the ceiling so that I can hook in when I'm doing hangboard training.
I'm scared to go back to the gym to try to top rope with the ankle brace on because I feel so stupid for having broken my ankle in their gym and getting carted out of there by paramedics. (seriously, I would have limped out and got my people to drive me but I was alone there) I'm embarrassed and I was already self conscious about being there because I'm a woman.
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drF
Trad climber
usa
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Apr 25, 2017 - 07:00pm PT
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If I were you I'd PM Craig Fry.
He's yur huckleberry.
He's a Dem0crack
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gwab72
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2017 - 07:14pm PT
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I needed that kick in the ass, thank you. I 100% agree and I needed to be reminded of that.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 25, 2017 - 07:44pm PT
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Sux don't it. But you will be back. I'm slowly working my way back...I'm just starting to trail run again, in short 5 min sections. And climb really easy stuff; gets a little better each and every time out.
Something about those right ankles
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gwab72
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2017 - 08:43pm PT
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I'm dying to see what's under the dressing but even though I called and begged, surgeon said I can't cut into it and look.
I was just one-foot hopping in my closet and tripped, landed dead on the bad foot. I was sure I'd torn the whole thing apart. It hurt a lot but I don't feel any swelling. I'll be using my crutches and brace a lot more now, obviously. Good lesson to learn the night before going back to work.
I'll try not to think about what they will want to do if I've dislodged their plates and screws in some way.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Apr 25, 2017 - 08:49pm PT
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Unfortunately, bouldering can be more dangerous than roped climbing. Was 72 your birthyear? If so, it'll take a while to get back into climbing. If and when you do get back insist on a top rope when bouldering, to hell with hecklers.
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gwab72
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2017 - 08:52pm PT
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yes, 1972 was birthyear. I'm definitely was oldest person in the gym on most days I went.
Tami, they haven't given me Physio instructions aside from "try to move it up and down a little" and my insurance was just cancelled so I doubt physio will be covered.
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okie
Trad climber
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Apr 25, 2017 - 09:15pm PT
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What John Gill, THE bouldering legend said above: bouldering can be more dangerous than other types of climbing. I've never been hurt from roped climbing but have a missing chunk from my leg from a bouldering accident.
Just the other day I saw a woman break her ankle in the Berkeley gym. It's unfortunately common. At least you got the injury out of the way early and from here on it's gonna be enjoyment.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 25, 2017 - 09:22pm PT
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At this point all you can do is wiggle your toes, and follow your doctors advise. It will take time for it to heal so you may have to learn to be patient with it. I know I did.
My doctor was great at fixing the break, but the soft tissue damage was completely another story. It's now obvious to me that it will be a year and a half before I am 100% again. I'm nearly half way there now
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Fan
climber
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Apr 25, 2017 - 09:30pm PT
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When my late husband Bob was 50, he was bouldering on Dark Side Dome in Tuolumne while he waited for his partner to tie his shoes. Two holds detached simultaneously. He fell, smashing a heel and an breaking an ankle. The orthopedic surgeons at Mammoth told him to get used to the fact that he might never walk again. He smiled confidently and said, “I’ll climb again.” And he did. Hang in there.
Bonnie Kamps
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Apr 25, 2017 - 09:43pm PT
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“I’ll climb again.” And he did
I'll say!
Hi, Bonnie.
John
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Apr 25, 2017 - 10:17pm PT
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If it'll get me to climb half as well as Bob Kamps, I'm ready to have my ankles broken right away.
More seriously, John is right about bouldering. I gave it up at the ripe old age of 68 after a short jump onto a plump pad in a gym rolled my ankle and ruptured my ACL. That was five years ago and I've been climbing regularly, but don't think the risks of bouldering worth the time it takes to recover at this point.
Of course I've been back to the gym where it happened---you're being pretty silly about that. Everyone will be very nice, ask how you are doing, and tell you how he same thing happened to them, or if the same thing didn't happen to them, they'll tell you about something else that happened to them...
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 25, 2017 - 10:31pm PT
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The gross materialist's body shops are pretty good these days ........
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Apr 25, 2017 - 10:51pm PT
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If you've only been climbing 3 days, watch out with the hangboard! They are advanced training tools that require being conscious of your body's limits. Finger injuries, elbow and shoulder tendonitis, and probably other problems, can easily result from overdoing it. Start slow and easy, and don't use it on consecutive days. Good luck with the ankle!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 25, 2017 - 11:01pm PT
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Gyms are dangerous. Use sparingly. Climb outside when things are back to sending.
Rolled my ankle twice this last weekend just hiking. I wonder if weak ligaments makes it easier or harder to break the bones.
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gwab72
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2017 - 04:45am PT
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I can tell I'll be using the hangboard mostly just for dead hang practice and whatnot. I think my partner will get more use out of it than me. I have an iron gym bar that I'm using for assisted pullups and whatnot.
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Apr 26, 2017 - 06:48am PT
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You can totally come back from this. Much good advice has been offered above on both your healing process and avoiding further injuries whilst bouldering. I blew out my shoulder rather early in my climbing career, went under the knife, and went on to do many fine and stupid things. This is just another event in your life, it certainly does not need to be a defining moment in the sense that it prevents you from following whatever adventure dreams you may have.
At the gym I climb at it is not all that unusual to see some lass or lad climbing with a top rope and one foot in a cast. My personal favorite was the young lady 7 months pregnant pulling down hard on 5.12's in the gym, on top rope of course.
You can come back from this, don't worry about it.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 26, 2017 - 07:31am PT
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I only got as far as Jim to far north for him to care ( really?)
Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Apr 25, 2017 - 07:06pm PT
Get over yourself.
You defied gravity and were taught a lesson in physics.
Go climbing again when you feel better. Worrying about what other people think is a great way to never do anything that matters to you personally.
Personal shame is over rated. Lose your sense of sentimentality and go forward after an injury.
Physical strength is easy to achieve. Mental fitness is just as important.
Wow, as if you had just gulped the second slurp of a great Single Malt, wishing you'd added
One square of ice,n'so pouring a 2nd shot . . . .
You left off all the compassion and well wishes , for a fast and positive rehabilitation,
with the explanation of what a learning experience it was,
and proof of the fact that - the Learning curve for the weaker, is in all ways, always steeper , really across the spectrum ,
so to speak, that and there are a handful of you who I've have not yet read the sss
The Seriously supportive Stuff
Why o ? Why did it all print, now gone whew? That was close
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Nuglet
Trad climber
Orange Murica!
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Apr 26, 2017 - 08:03am PT
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I've been climbing for 30 years and had a hard catch 3 times that fvcked up my ankles. And i had known and climbing with all of them for years
speedy recovery
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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Apr 26, 2017 - 08:17am PT
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had just sent the easiest boulder path
I hope you recover quickly and climb again, but please, never say "boulder path" again.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 26, 2017 - 08:18am PT
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Hey, Snowflake, I'll convey yer woeful tale to my brother-in-law who also suffered a fall recently. Now he's driving a wheelchair instead of his usual B767, but to his credit he is mentoring younger spinal chord victims at the Craig Center rather than, well, you know.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 26, 2017 - 08:28am PT
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SCHWARPREMA? I
Yeh, I knda' feel ya!
A Twisted sister either way,
.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Apr 26, 2017 - 08:32am PT
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Shattered my left ankle in a lame bouldering fall in 1985. Two surgeries: screws in, screws out. (don't let them leave hardware in)
Climbing again after 9 months. Went on to decades of climbing, backpacking, skiing etc. It has been a bother these last 32 years but, what are you going to do.
Keep on truckin.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
CA
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Apr 26, 2017 - 08:33am PT
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You can join Largo's gym club
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Apr 26, 2017 - 09:31am PT
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I'll add to many previous posters that you will recover within a year from the ankle injury.
Much depends on your own motivation and drive, and just being a climber defines you as that type of person.
I have over 200 pieces of shrapnel from Vietnam in one of my ankles, and also broke the heal of that same foot. Years later I broke both ankles and shattered the bones over one arch, all due to climbing accidents. ( I'll never learn).
Sometimes these old injuries bother me, but at 71 I'm still climbing. Here is a photo taken a few years ago in Yosemite. You will be at it again-I'm sure.
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Apr 26, 2017 - 10:43am PT
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Rock on, Steve, nice story, GREAT photo.
Also, welcome home.
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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Apr 26, 2017 - 11:02am PT
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Lots of advice, little of it on point.
The people posting do not know what a "trimaleolar fracture" actually is, which is not a simple broken ankle.
I speak not only as a physician, but as someone who suffered a trimaleolar fracture. While I recovered, and went on to run (in a fashion), there is no doubt that it changed my life. I currently walk with a cane, with considerable pain. The fracture is the reason.
You only get one chance to get this right. Do what your doctors say. See a physical therapist or occupational therapist. Stop with the stupid stuff that has a potential to screw up your healing ankle. Mess it up, and it will NEVER, EVER be the same.
You didn't state your age, nor location.
You may even want to go so far as to seek guidance from a Rehabilitation Doctor. You only get one chance to get this right, and it has the potential to affect your use of the ankle for the rest of your life.
Don't screw around with this.
You can come back from this, don't worry about it.
Worry is not a useful position to take, but take this very, very seriously.
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gwab72
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2017 - 05:38pm PT
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Thanks for the support and encouragement those of you who gave that. (I'm on my phone and so can't address specific users now but..)
1) thanks for the hangboard advice. I've got a clip in the ceiling and will look at reducing weight via pulley. For now, will stick to pull up bar in the doorway, and push-ups and resistance and on the doorknob stuff. I'm not very strong. At one time I was.
2) I am in Florida. I'll be 45 this year. Not much outdoor climbing here.
3) so super sorry I don't have climbing lingo down. God knows it was humiliating enough that I'm the only injured climbed to ever have the gym call 911 rather than driving themselves home with a broken ankle so please help me save the embarrassment of calling the wrong thing and tell me what I should have called it? "Bouldering path" will be forever stricken from my vocabulary. I assume I shouldn't replace it with "purple hangie things"?
4) thank you for the horrifying and sobering advice (from the physician) and for helping me understand that I'm not crazy or weak to be taking this extremely seriously and to be afraid. I went back to work today and I'm a constantly afraid that I'm going to fall.
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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Apr 26, 2017 - 06:35pm PT
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Jeremy, people often have medical problems that they do not thoroughly understand. Also, such people have mostly exactly ONE experience with that problem, so they don't see the range of what can happen, so they think that what happened to them is what happens to everyone, and it isn't.
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drF
Trad climber
usa
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Apr 26, 2017 - 06:47pm PT
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So says the racist Ken M....
He does know All
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monolith
climber
state of being
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Apr 26, 2017 - 07:02pm PT
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I'm the only injured climbed to ever have the gym call 911
My gym has called 911 twice this year while I've been there, so probably there have been others. (1 leader drop, 1 upside down leader fall with swing into wall) They've gotten very good at cleaning up blood stains.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 26, 2017 - 07:02pm PT
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3) so super sorry I don't have climbing lingo down. God knows it was humiliating enough that I'm the only injured climbed to ever have the gym call 911 rather than driving themselves home with a broken ankle so please help me save the embarrassment of calling the wrong thing and tell me what I should have called it? "Bouldering path" will be forever stricken from my vocabulary. I assume I shouldn't replace it with "purple hangie things"?
Calling it a "problem" might not upset anyone.
Seriously tho, don't weight the thing till the Dr. gives the OK. Then, if you are having ankle swelling problems, try compression socks. They have been a godsend for me. You know your getting old when you gush about old people socks. But, within a week of putting them on my ankle was significantly less swollen.
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gwab72
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2017 - 07:09pm PT
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yeah apparently the guys working the gym told my partner something along the lines of "most people who hurt themselves here are just like 'take me to my car' and she's the only one to actually say 'I'm hurt, call 911'"
He tried hard for the save: "no I mean, they're saying it's cool that you did that, it gave them a chance to practice their protocol."
yeah, okay.
I'm trying - ok, failing- to resist the urge to point out that I was alone there, and didn't know anyone there, and was 37 miles from my house. It never even crossed my mind for a second to try to get in my car and drive away. That would have been reckless as all f*#k.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 26, 2017 - 07:19pm PT
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Oh dear ! I'm sorry if there seemed some comments that made no sense.
To the 1st most no context to you comment ,
I think, probably you missed an actually important referance, funny , in a dark way,
is a reference to one of the all time great climbers of his or any generation, and recognized as the best rock climbing adventure writer of the the last and this century, !
John Long , or Largo , as he posts here. The comment refers to his gruesome ankle fracture s
That were the result of failure to tye his knot while climbing in-doors , after an amazing number of ascents of hard fearsome out door rock climbs
Godfather of the Stonemaster, the name eventually synonymous with everything that climbing embraced throughout the country over the last 45 years.
Which is seen as highly ironic After having literally written books that teach climbing. You definitely should get these , while you are rehabbing.
https://www.amazon.com/How-Rock-Climb/dp/0762755342
Then myTwisted Sisted comment, I'd hoped to elicit a response,..
Ankle , I meant a twisted ankle sister.
The reference to a banned troll - should and was ignored.
When I checked the type of break, I was surprised that the top five or six (5-6) top choices
all , went right to the issue of returning walking . There were many questions like will I ever walk down stairs again and scary will I ever walk again. I was not trying to be-little The thouroghly life check that you've been thrown,
So I'm sorry if my comment seemed to harsh.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Apr 26, 2017 - 07:31pm PT
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Just remember this--Yer GONNA DIE!!!!
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gwab72
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2017 - 07:33pm PT
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Gnome, I didn't find your comment harsh. All good.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 26, 2017 - 08:12pm PT
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I climbed and fell in my ankles for 20 years then exploded both heels in '94 I didn't Snap or sheer anything plates n screws and I climbed and danced at my wedding in '97. I refused a recommended fusion, had a reform to the shape of the subtalar joint, basically successful experimental surgery, that has held up better than could be expected.
The link from the department that made me walk again.
https://www.hss.edu/orthopedic-trauma-case2-ankle-fractures.asp
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Apr 26, 2017 - 08:56pm PT
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Calling it a "problem" might not upset anyone
As an aside, historically, the British coined the word "problem" for their short rock climbs in the Lake District as they began the sport of rock climbing there in the 1880s. They also gave us the word "bouldering" at about that time. Bet you didn't know this stuff went way back in history.
As you recover, you might be entertained by my website on the history of the sport: http://www.johngill.net
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 26, 2017 - 09:04pm PT
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Admittedly, she said Boulder "path"
I don't climb inside,so I thought it was possible that the phrase was indoor lingo.
I knew that you meant to wish the women a speedy recovery as well,
And that you just got occupied with the perfect finish*' ( see below)
As my capture of it is meant to say;
thank you for that full affirmation,
I'll be sure to share that with sprouts both on and off the path. just
Blasphemous treatment of a Single Malt;
'*PERFECT FINISH, , (NOT THE RINSE)
I just knew, that having , not to much of an ice cube, is important.
I have it down,
I use the back of a table soon, medium heavy tap, breaks a standard cube in half,
a second pop, yields that perfect chunk to take a second, shot,
(so, extravagant for me so) and a blasphemy
I know, but it extends the butter just that much,mi drain the glass before the ice is gone.
We are due some brilliant weather and if I can I'll call it "Peet & Stone"
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Apr 26, 2017 - 09:34pm PT
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Yes, read jgill's website. Every climber should. Actually, every person should.
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gwab72
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2017 - 09:52pm PT
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Checking it out now thanks
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Apr 26, 2017 - 10:12pm PT
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Suprema lives!
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Nuglet
Trad climber
Orange Murica!
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Apr 27, 2017 - 04:53am PT
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Suprema is the UNdead
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gwab72
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2017 - 10:08am PT
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um, I feel super stupid.
I misunderstood what my partner was telling me about the gym and 911 thing. They were actually saying they were glad I didn't argue with them about calling 911, because ti's protocol that they do that and that people usually resist. Because of liability, the gym's protocol is to call rescue. I stood out because I didn't resist that.
I had a pretty rough night feeling sorry for myself. I think I'm over it now. Thanks everyone who's been posting. I don't know any of you and you don't know me, but I am grateful for the distraction, the cheerleading, the history of bouldering website (seriously, it's great) and the trip reports. They're terrifying and amazing.
It occurs to me that I was scrambling up (way, way less steep) rocks in western NC a long time ago just as part of hiking, and people were always telling me I was being stupid. But it felt a bit like climbing trees to me, and so it was fun. When I think about my younger days i realize I climbed all kinds of things- the grain silo on my family's farm, the train cars in my dad's yard, piles of rocks and junk, so many trees. I can't believe I broke my ankle climbing a plastic wall with a bunch of pads underneath it.
But I realize now I'm not crazy or stupid to want to keep climbing things. I like climbing things. I'm going to keep climbing things.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Apr 27, 2017 - 10:24am PT
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Best thing: stay the hell away from climbing gyms. Don't trust just anyone to be your belayer.
It was in like, um, make it February of 1972, I think. Nearly got to see Jesus in a really long one on a TR fall on Swan Slab. Almost grounded but didn't and had to climb into a tree to loosen the knot so I could climb down, limp across the road to my waiting van and go get a cast on my ankle.
I was jumaring aid pitches in the cast...and crutching around on ice in the valley. I managed not to slip on the steps going into the Lodge.
Bouldering was out of the question, as I really don't cotton to bouldering in the first place. Too many ankle breakers.
STick with it.
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monolith
climber
state of being
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Apr 27, 2017 - 11:20am PT
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Such hate for climbing gyms from the old farts. It's hilarious.
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teamzepher
Trad climber
CA
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Apr 27, 2017 - 12:30pm PT
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Fractured my talus almost a year ago bouldering in Jtree. Ankles suck, they can take a long time to heal due to lack of blood flow. I was non-weigh bearing for 2 months and a knee scooter saved me. In the throes of recovery, climbing, running, and skiing all seemed like they would never come back, but in time they all did. Still not psyched on throwing my foot in a crack and cranking but I'm guessing even that will eventually come back. Stay on ropes, way safer.
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gwab72
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2017 - 05:38pm PT
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Yeah I'm in Florida and there's not much outdoor climbing nearby. Gyms are how I would imagine I'd need to stay trained.
I will definitely be roped in for the foreseeable future.
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